other than chaining the motor down. how can i keep from eating up motor mounts? as soon as i put in my doubler "pow" there whent the mounts.
i have searched but the only thing i can find is to chain the motor.

esbfabrications makes some heavy duty mounts, might be worth a look

A piece of chain works fine, costs very little and adds no vibration:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/MotorMount.shtml

Or there are the HD motor mounts, as mentioned above, or RockStomper or LC Engr. make similar style poly mounts. Some folks find that running only one (driver's side?) makes a good compromise between strength and increased engine vibration (if that matters to you).

Hard mount them with a Poly bushing. Never break again. I broke a dozen before I finally figured it out. :D

I booty-fabbed mine and their holding up great. I took the stud off with an angle grinder, clamped in a vise on the drill press and ran a 1/2" drill through it. I then installed grade 8 nut, bolt & washers. I snugged it up just until there was no play and welded the the nut onto the bolt.

If you go to a mount like rockstompers, keep an eye on the mount coming off the frame, they will tend to crack.

What do you have against chaining them??

Do you understand how it works?

small cargo straps work too

other than chaining the motor down. how can i keep from eating up motor mounts? as soon as i put in my doubler "pow" there whent the mounts.
i have searched but the only thing i can find is to chain the motor.

Nothing wrong with chaining....when push comes to shove, only the driver side needs the chaining and if you leave a little slack then the mount will last yet still isolate vibration.
Chaining both is probably a good idea anyway cause if you roll it, the rubbers might tear free anyways and also cause the fan to take out the radiator.

Also, going to a high numeric ring/pinion will ease the strain on the MM's and all other driveline parts.

I have welded a drivers side motor mount. but it ripped the frame bracket off. when it was still attached good, it vibed a little but not bad enough to bother me. Try welding one and run it and see how you like it. it's not like you are wasting a mount, but fixing a broken one. andif you do not like the vibes, stick it in the box as a trail spare.

leave a little slack then the mount will last yet still isolate vibration.

Perhaps this can't be answered but I am gonna ask anyway......How much slack is considered "good"?

Perhaps this can't be answered but I am gonna ask anyway......How much slack is considered "good"?
1 link. Basically, you can get by with 3 links of normal sized chain between the two mount pieces. The chain will just be slack, that's all. You want the engine to move a bit if you rev it in neutral.

1 link. Basically, you can get by with 3 links of normal sized chain between the two mount pieces. The chain will just be slack, that's all. You want the engine to move a bit if you rev it in neutral.
So if I am understanding correctly you basically get 3 links of chain and set it up so that the two end pieces touch and the middle link is the slack.

So if I am understanding correctly you basically get 3 links of chain and set it up so that the two end pieces touch and the middle link is the slack.
That's probably even more slack that some I have seen. It's not rocket science, basically, try it. Tack weld it up, see if the engine can still move as much as it normally would,maybe drop it in LoLo and rev around the driveway, if the tacks hold up and things seem good, then weld it up the rest of the way.

Sounds like a plan. Thanks the info and suggestions!!

My opinion is that the chain idea works so good, why bother with anything else....yes, you only need three links.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=132211

Heck I even did on on my 7M swap.... One chain is for side to side movement and the other chain is to keep the engine off the firewall.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196209&stc=1

chain works good or you can use 1/4" flatstock and weld it. I used thicker but 1/4" would be enough.

chain works good or you can use 1/4" flatstock and weld it. I used thicker but 1/4" would be enough.

:confused: I don't understand what you mean. Are you saying you used a peice of flat steel where 4RnrRick placed the chain? That would introduce some serious vibs & stress on the frame.

Hey Rick,

In the pic's you used galvanized chain, did you strip the galvanization first? If so how? Grind it off or use Muriatic (IIRC) acid.

I'm going to do this today, and already have the chain.

Thanks,

Doc

Well if anyone cares...I just ground off the area of the chain where I thought I would be running a bead, and MIG'd away. It worked out fine.

But I do recall that the vapors from welding galvanized, can be harmful, so I made sure I had good ventilation, and ran the garage fan behind me.

I'd post pic's but Rick already did that.

Doc