I now have a 241 Rubicon Rock Trac t-case with a 1330 front/1310 rear yokes. I run 1310 d.s. cv stock XJ front driveshaft so I was wondering on 1 end of the CV if I could get the 1310 and the other end the 1330 to mate up to the t-case yoke? Is it better and possible to just change the t-case yoke from the stock Rock Trac 1330 to a 231 1310 yoke? I want to keep this as cheap as possible and not have to get a completely new CV driveshaft built for $250 or so.

Also, RE by my house sells a 1310 yoke, but they say it is for the rear of their t-cases and depending on what year t-case you get (Rock Trac) it has 1330's f/r or 1330/1310 f/r. They say it is fabricated for TJ's, but I should be able to use it on the input of my t-case in my XJ right? I also saw that RE and NAPA etc sell a 1310/1330 conversion u-joint. This would be the easiest/cheapest to do right?

Troy

just go with the conversion joint...

i run one in my xj. rear shaft to ford 8.8. I havent had any problems with it.

If you have problems with the joint or kill it then worry about going with one of the more expensive fixes.

just go with the conversion joint...

i run one in my xj. rear shaft to ford 8.8. I havent had any problems with it.

If you have problems with the joint or kill it then worry about going with one of the more expensive fixes.

Thanks so by the conversion joint you mean the 1310/1330 joint I can get at NAPA and other parts stores?

Thanks so by the conversion joint you mean the 1310/1330 joint I can get at NAPA and other parts stores?

Yes you can get them at your local parts store, but you still have to worry about the centering ball of the CV being designed for a 1310. The cross for the 1330 is a little longer than that of a 1310, so you have to change out the centering ball portion of the CV, if that is possible.

Yes you can get them at your local parts store, but you still have to worry about the centering ball of the CV being designed for a 1310. The cross for the 1330 is a little longer than that of a 1310, so you have to change out the centering ball portion of the CV, if that is possible.

Would it be easier to just change out the yoke on the t-case then to a 1310? How do you change out the ball portion of the CV? How much would that cost?

How about looking here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373072)

How about looking here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373072)

Sorry for getting 2 theads started. My inquiry into driveshaft shops turned more technical I guess. I called West Coast Diff and inquired about a 1310 yoke for the 241 and they said they didn't have it and because it is a CV, the adapter u-joint will not work. I guess I'll have to get a custom front CV driveshaft with 1310 axle u-joint and the rest 1330's. Is there a good strength increase in using 1330's? I have hp44/35 spline 9" with 5.38/5.43 gears and detroits and run 37" MTRs.

I don't know much about the 1330's but you won't be happy with a 9", 37's and a 1310. You'll eat 'em up often. I carry a whole slip shaft, yoke, and extra ujoints and ubolts with me so I can change them out fast when they break. :( Good luck

Try giving Jesse a call, worth the time if you ask me.

5-134x is the Spicer number if my catalog is correct.

I am not sure which design your C/V is, but if you use a yoke on your transfer case, you can probably try it.

5-134x is the Spicer number if my catalog is correct.

I am not sure which design your C/V is, but if you use a yoke on your transfer case, you can probably try it.

Is this a conversion u-joint? I pulled up this link when I looked for 5-134X Spicer:

http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/220_271/products_id/23190?osCsid=2adeb5b224a2a7414c38e18b12568669

Will this u-joint allow me to mate my 1310 CV driveshaft to a 1330 t-case yoke?