Buddy of mine has a NP205 transfercase. He wants to be able to disconnect the rear wheel drive but keep the front engage. It seems like the shifter that would put the rear in neutral to do this, get's locked up when it doesn't shift with the 4x shifter.

First of all, with the NP205, can this be done? If so, how do we make it work?

Yes it can be done. If you didn't search (it's been covered before) - use this: http://128.121.255.231/purchase/product.asp?uid=&item=309

To do this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7769&highlight=twin+stick

Thanks.

I did do a search, I just didn't do the right search.

I did this mod recently. It is possible, but you need a twin-stick, and you have to pull the tcase apart. pull the front output shaft, and take off the rear inspection cover. Then tap the shifter fork pin for the front shaft out with a hammer and punch from the top of the case. Slide the shift rail out, and leave the fork in the case. Now you can pull the shifter interlock pins out of the case. They go between both shiftrails, and are what keep you from engaging front-only. There are two interlock pins, and you will see indentations on the front shift rail where the pins ride. After you pull these out, put everything back in the way it came out. Now rig up a twin stick and you're done.

- from the driver's seat -

REAR OUTPUT FRONT OUTPUT

LOW LOW

N N

HI HI

- make sure not to put the front in low and the rear in high at the same time(or vice-versa), or KABOOM!!!!!

Good Luck!

With my offset rear output 205/200 hybrid, I have twin sticks also. I think the left hand stick does hi-neutral-low and the right hand stick does rear-4wd-fwd, since the interlock is gone. I believe I don't have the KABOOM problem, since the center rear output is hooked to nothing except an E brake. And incidentally seems to be always in high range even when the both offset outputs are in low range.
Charlie

pull the shifter interlock pins out of the case. They go between both shiftrails, and are what keep you from engaging front-only. There are two interlock pins, and you will see indentations on the front shift rail where the pins ride. After you pull these out, put everything back in the way it came out. Now rig up a twin stick and you're done.

Removing the interlock pins as elf-cruiser recommends is a BAD idea IMO. With the interlock pins removed it is possible to simultaneously place the 205 in both Hi and Low range. Too many thngs can inadvertantly happen while wheeling to cause this and the resultant damage. Why take that risk when you actually do not need to remove the pins to achieve the desired goal. All you need to do is to remove the range shift rail and enlarge the detents as shown in the following pic:

http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/NP205/205ShiftRail.JPG
By enlarging the front detent (right hand side of rail) this allows the rear output to be placed in neutral without removing the interlock pin that rests in that detent. The abrupt edge on the front detent prevents the shifting into Hi when the front output is in Lo.

By only modifying the range shift rail, you do not have to remove the front output shaft. You only need to remove the inspection cover, the range detent ball and spring and the freeze plug near the range shift rail. You can drive out the pin holding the shift fork onto the range shift fork rail with a punch through the freeze plug hole as shown in the following pic:
http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/NP205/Freezplug.JPG

I did this mod the way Medusa describes it.
Works great.:D

Medusa,

What did you do for the twin stick? Did you get the currie setup for the D300 or Fab your own? I'd like to see pics if you have them.

Also, it looks by the pics that after the mod the shift rail goes farther in the trans, is that correct, or does it also come further out of the case when shifted? Only reason I ask is that I plan on using my 205 behind a 203 clocked flat which doesn't allow a lot of room for the shift rail and linkage.

Thanks in Advance

I just made a custom twin stick shifter for my 203 - 205 doubler. I am also running the 205 clocked flat, but the 203 is upside down. There is very little room for the inboard shift mechanism, but it can be done. The pictures here are the first rendition, but it does shift good. I will be posting pics soon of the final product soon. I am going to make all the plates, mounts and rail adapters on our bridgeport CNC's so I can duplicate them exactly. I will also be upgrading the twin stick to 1/4" Plate instead of 1/8. Any way, here is the link. http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/tech_2.htm hope this helps some. :D

Originally posted by Alaska Offroad
I just made a custom twin stick shifter for my 203 - 205 doubler. I am also running the 205 clocked flat, but the 203 is upside down. There is very little room for the inboard shift mechanism, but it can be done. The pictures here are the first rendition, but it does shift good. I will be posting pics soon of the final product soon. I am going to make all the plates, mounts and rail adapters on our bridgeport CNC's so I can duplicate them exactly. I will also be upgrading the twin stick to 1/4" Plate instead of 1/8. Any way, here is the link. http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/tech_2.htm hope this helps some. :D

Great link and pics. Keep us updated when you finish the final product.

Originally posted by cruiserrg
Medusa,

Also, it looks by the pics that after the mod the shift rail goes farther in the trans, is that correct, or does it also come further out of the case when shifted?
Thanks in Advance
The shift rail maintains the same range of motion as stock.:)

Originally posted by Scoutaholic

The shift rail maintains the same range of motion as stock.:)

Thanks, good to know before I do the mod.

hey is there anything special i need to do to a ford divorced 205 when i do the front wheel drive mods? mike

holy crapo, this is over a year old.

yea, i know how to use the search feature. mike

gunracer, i doubt it...

hey i retrieved it from the dead

Removing the interlock pins as elf-cruiser recommends is a BAD idea IMO. With the interlock pins removed it is possible to simultaneously place the 205 in both Hi and Low range. Too many thngs can inadvertantly happen while wheeling to cause this and the resultant damage. Why take that risk when you actually do not need to remove the pins to achieve the desired goal. All you need to do is to remove the range shift rail and enlarge the detents as shown in the following pic:

http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/NP205/205ShiftRail.JPG
By enlarging the front detent (right hand side of rail) this allows the rear output to be placed in neutral without removing the interlock pin that rests in that detent. The abrupt edge on the front detent prevents the shifting into Hi when the front output is in Lo.

By only modifying the range shift rail, you do not have to remove the front output shaft. You only need to remove the inspection cover, the range detent ball and spring and the freeze plug near the range shift rail. You can drive out the pin holding the shift fork onto the range shift fork rail with a punch through the freeze plug hole as shown in the following pic:
http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/NP205/Freezplug.JPG

OLD POST brought back from the dead..
Any have these pics?

thanks

look here http://www.clubfte.com/users/ivanribic/page2.html

http://www.members.cox.net/russhuffman/twinstick/twinstick.html

His original pics have moved to here: http://medusa.ih8mud.com/NP205/Doubler.html

Ryan

Sweet, a 3 year old post. Good job on the search. Man oh man, how does time fly. Too fast I think :(

very helpfull, Thanks.

In short remove the shift rail closest to the input of the 205.
The notch at the tail end should be .8-.94 in total length (no slope at the end)
The notch near the shift linkage end of the shift rail should be extended .4in, then sloped to match the facory slope.

http://medusa.ih8mud.com/NP205/205ShiftRailS.JPG