Hey Guys

i am getting ready to rip apart my Dana30 to weld up the spiders and my buddy wants me to remove the shafts and everything so when i go to his place to weld it, all we have to do is pull the carrier.

taking a good look at this, it looks like the shafts hold the Unit bearing together with that big nut on the end and it cant be run without a shaft missing?

am i right on this??

thanks

Yes, it can be. I'm looking for the pictures of when we did this, it's hilarious.

Originally posted by Boston Mangler:
<STRONG>Hey Guys

i am getting ready to rip apart my Dana30 to weld up the spiders and my buddy wants me to remove the shafts and everything so when i go to his place to weld it, all we have to do is pull the carrier.

taking a good look at this, it looks like the shafts hold the Unit bearing together with that big nut on the end and it cant be run without a shaft missing?

am i right on this??

thanks</STRONG>


You have to leave the outers on I believe.

CJ: Yes
TWXYZJ: No

Look at the picture. Pay attention to what we closed the end of the tube with. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/jelloaxle.jpg

Originally posted by Mo:
<STRONG>CJ: Yes
TWXYZJ: No</STRONG>

You can run without the shafts on a TJ. No problem. Been there, done that.

warning warning alert.... you must have the outter shaft on ... it holds the bearing together... i lost both front wheels at 40 mph trying that trick one time.... whatever anyone else say's is wrong!


YOU MUST HAVE THE OUTER SHAFT ON.......

thanks guys

i will leave it in until i get there

ta ta

You can run it without shafts but like in the previous post you do need the stub shaft to hold the bearing assembly together. Pull the shafts and remove the u-joints. Put the stub shafts and bearing assembly back on. Shove some rags in the end of the tubes so you don't lose all your gear oil. Whatever you do don't take the big nut off the stub shaft just remove the u-joints.

Originally posted by badassjeepguy:
<STRONG>warning warning alert.... you must have the outter shaft on ... it holds the bearing together... i lost both front wheels at 40 mph trying that trick one time.... whatever anyone else say's is wrong!


YOU MUST HAVE THE OUTER SHAFT ON.......</STRONG>

HEHEHEHEHEHEHH

That was some funny shit!!!!!

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Have ya thought of getting a real differential and maybe going for a Dana44 or maybe even a Dana60 <IMG SRC="smilies/idea.gif" border="0">

Umm, why can't you run it w/o the outer shaft? As long as the hub nuts are in they hold the bearings in and the spindle on, wtf are you smoking?

xBabyJesus

Originally posted by xBabyJesus:
<STRONG>Umm, why can't you run it w/o the outer shaft? As long as the hub nuts are in they hold the bearings in and the spindle on, wtf are you smoking?

xBabyJesus</STRONG>

Because with the weight and leverage of the wheel and tire on you'd be putting pressure on the lug studs which in turn would twist and pull the bearing assembly apart. With the stub shaft in place it keeps the hub bearing assembly intact.

Now where'd i put that Bong?... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by xBabyJesus:
<STRONG>Umm, why can't you run it w/o the outer shaft? As long as the hub nuts are in they hold the bearings in and the spindle on, wtf are you smoking?

xBabyJesus</STRONG>Have you actually pulled apart your axle, hub assembly. If you had you would realize that the hub nut is screwed on to the stub shaft which holds the bearing together. But hey maybe your blessed by a higher power so try and run your rig without the stub shaft in place. See you on the 10 o'clock news. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by TornadoTJ:
<STRONG>Look at the picture. Pay attention to what we closed the end of the tube with. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
</STRONG>

Mmmmmmmmmmm Jello good <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by TornadoTJ:
<STRONG>You can run without the shafts on a TJ. No problem. Been there, done that.</STRONG>

NO - You can only run w/o the inner shafts. The outer stubs are needed to keep the bearing pack in the bearing hub assembly. I had a friend who tried to run w/o outer shafts installed. I told him that he needed the stubs to keep his solid hub together, but he was convinced he did'nt. Ran down the road for a bit, and his hub came apart and his wheel went bouncing down the road. I happened to have a spare bearing hub - and I loaned it to him. I told him to put in the stub shafts - but he was convinced he didn't need to - even after the loss of the first one. After a short ways down the trail - he lost his wheel again. Fortunately - no one was hurt.

In short - you MUST run w/ the outer stubs installed.

Originally posted by xBabyJesus:
<STRONG>Umm, why can't you run it w/o the outer shaft? As long as the hub nuts are in they hold the bearings in and the spindle on, wtf are you smoking?

xBabyJesus</STRONG>

You're the one smokin, dude. The hub nuts screw on to the outter stubs. With out the stub shafts you'll be holding your nuts in your hand.

?? Are you talking about only newer TJs and YJ's with non-locking hubs?

I pulled my front apart no less than a week ago due to a busted knuckle, i have no shafts on either side, works fine.

-J

*glances at the wasted outer shafts, worries*

Originally posted by xBabyJesus:
<STRONG>?? Are you talking about only newer TJs and YJ's with non-locking hubs?

I pulled my front apart no less than a week ago due to a busted knuckle, i have no shafts on either side, works fine.

-J</STRONG>

Solid hub TJ's, YJ's, XJ's and ZJ's REQUIRE the outter stub to keep the bearing pack together. You may get away with it for a short time - kinda like a guy playing Russian Roulette...after the first couple of clicks, he thinks everything is juuuust fine, then BLAMMO - guess he was wrong.

You're really gonna hurt someone. Do yourself and anyone else near you a favor and install the outter stubs. REALLY.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: AzJeep ]

Originally posted by xBabyJesus:
<STRONG>?? Are you talking about only newer TJs and YJ's with non-locking hubs?

I pulled my front apart no less than a week ago due to a busted knuckle, i have no shafts on either side, works fine.

-J</STRONG>Do you have life insurance?

<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Like I said before see you on the 10 o'clock news. <IMG SRC="smilies/nuke.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/nuke.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">

But what about a manual hub'd outer, aka Superwinch's on a D30 from a CJ7?

-J

That is a totally different animal. The TJ YJ XJ ZJ WJ KJ dana 30s don't have spindless. They have unitized bearings that require a stub shaft to hold them together. With out the stub shaft the bearing will seperate and you will be riding your rotor down the street.

Please, please xBabyJesus, fill out your profile so we know where you live. I don't even want to be near the town when your wheels leave the rig and you pop both or ur nuts in earnest! <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

This guy is going to kill someone. I watched badassjeep guy' both front tires fly off of his 97 tj going down the road in the smokey mountains last year. he didn't make it 20 yards before the bearings seperated and the wheels took off, luckily no one was around.

We also thought it would be ok to run without any shafts, we learned the hard way, never do that again..

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Ive learned quite a bit from this post. Thanks to all. http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif

Originally posted by Nate97TJ:
<STRONG>That is a totally different animal. The TJ YJ XJ ZJ WJ KJ dana 30s don't have spindless. They have unitized bearings that require a stub shaft to hold them together. With out the stub shaft the bearing will seperate and you will be riding your rotor down the street.</STRONG>

That's what I thought! Thanks.

LMFAO, at this post. WTF is up with the Jeep shit. I guess that's why I drive the old reliable Scout.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

I wonder what would happen if you just used some duct tape and no stub shafts.......
<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Could you substitute a large bolt for the stub shaft? Might be a good thing to keep in a tool box.

i never gave it much though,,,,,, the bearings are a so called "sealed" unit... again i didnt pay attention but it is a pressed on unit! it came apart because the stub shaft was NOT there to hold it together......

IT WILL FAWKIN COME OFF

Originally posted by Grandpa_Jeep:
<STRONG>Could you substitute a large bolt for the stub shaft? Might be a good thing to keep in a tool box.</STRONG>

Not sure. The flat face of the stub (4" or so in diameter) is pressed up against the inside of the bearing assembly as you tighten down on the hub nut. The torque spec is 175 ft/lbs on the hub nut. I suppose if you had a strong enough bolt and washer and nut set you could make it work temporarily, but I'd think you'd run a risk (perhaps a small risk) of fuckin up the female splines in the hub.

It'd be probably a much better idea to simply bring along a trashed stub and use it. Personnally, I always carry spare axles, but I suppose there could be a situation where pulling an axle w/o replacing it could come up (blown r/p or locker). If that's the case you could always disassemble a trail spare. However, I like the idea of carrying a trashed stub just in case.

Originally posted by badassjeepguy:
<STRONG>i never gave it much though,,,,,, the bearings are a so called "sealed" unit... again i didnt pay attention but it is a pressed on unit! it came apart because the stub shaft was NOT there to hold it together......

IT WILL FAWKIN COME OFF</STRONG>
Unlike others who shall remain nameless. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> I thought about this then realized I did ned to leave on the outter stub, but you can definately pull the inner shaft.
Lookin the assembly at 40mph... <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Glad to hear you made it!

Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>LMFAO, at this post. WTF is up with the Jeep shit. I guess that's why I drive the old reliable Scout.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>It's not the greatest set-up but at least it's easy to change out a broken shaft on the trail. If you have spares with you it's about a 10 min. job. Remove the wheel and all is left is 5 bolts. Easy.

<IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Great info!
So if hypothetically I were to blow my front r&p, I could gut the 30, plug the axle tubes, but due to the design make damn sure the outer stay intact(bolted)i.e. seperate the outer/inner axle.

This is a good field repair heads up!

Lemme know if Im trackin right

Paul

Thanks Again!!

You got it Paul. I busted a front u-joint/shaft a couple months ago. We pulled the inner shaft and I drove it like that for a couple weeks before my free replacement arrived.

[ 10-06-2001: Message edited by: JnJ ]

Thanks JnJ <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

I was not surprised to see that ignorant people would suggest running on a sealed bearing without preload on them. A couple months ago I was doing the pinion and wheel bearings on my Tj. The shop gave me the wrong inner pinion bearing.I called them and asked them if I could drive on the outers with no axle shafts. "no problem" they replied. I even called my local 4 wheel shop, and they said it would be ok.

Well that worked good till I hit about 35 mph at the end of my street when the tire (36 sx) separated from the vehicle taking out the brakeline and steering knuckle. Of course the wonderful single resorvoir master cylinder completely fails when you lose a line so I came to a stop in the ditch after another 100 feet. It took all of my restraint to not kill this moron that first gave me the wrong bearing then suggested that I drive on the new bearings ruining them and a steering knuckle and a brakeline and linings. Total cost in broken parts about $700. Remember talk is cheap.

Tjeb null http://wheelingadventures.com/Carnage/4.jpg