R+P question

[Klasick68]

Ok, I have done alot of R+P swaps using all used parts, and they seem to hold up good (Did one in D44 that has held together for 20K miles, and that is a CJ 3.73 pinion and a Chev 3.73 carrier and ring gear)) but all I do is shim the pinion till the lash feels good. I know (sorta) how to do em the right way, but they seem to work so damn well this way that I wonder if there is any need ?? (I know that i prob would have to with new parts) Am I just lucky, or what ??? Any one ever had BAD results this way??

[Bindernut]

Dan,

I've done that before too, with good results. I usually take the time to get the side-to-side position of the ring gear right, though. This usually means several times of the carrier bearings off/on, which is a big PITA when you've already set up the pinion preload and depth, and you read the wear pattern and have to tear the thing all down again. :mad: With used gears, it's pretty hard to get them to mesh right where they did in the previous housing, which sacrifices some strength and causes extra wear. I think with used parts though, the advantage is that the shims behind the carrier bearings are usually pretty close to where they need to be, so that when you get the pinion depth right, it gives a decent wear pattern because the ring gear is pretty much where it needs to be. I too have noticed that the setup seems to be fine as long as the backlash is about right and you aren't riding right in the root or the crown of the ring gear teeth. I've had about 15k on a D44 that I set up with used parts, but I did everything PERFECT, (took it apart the last time to move the carrier .002") and I did put in new bearings. Others I've not even bothered, I slapped together mismatched ring and pinion, the backlash was ok on the first try so I just buttoned it up. Haven't broken either one!!:confused: Of course, I've had best results with brand new stuff, no problems there at all! :cool:

I guess if you pay attention and get it reasonably close, you'll get enough miles out of it to make it worth the time savings, as long as it isn't something that sees high loads at high speed for long periods (e.g., towing) or abrupt shock loads (e.g. clutch dump at 3800rpm). It's probably fine.

regards...

[Tony Sobrito]

the pinion depth should be a slam dunk because you can factor off of the old shim pack/pinion depth markings. make up some set up bearings for the carrier and your good to go to set up backlash and check pattern. unless the pattern is way off shouldnt most of the resetting be with carrier shims..?

[Bindernut]

Good point about pinion depth, Tony. Especially with Dana gears, since the depth is marked on the head of the pinion, you can compare the two depths (old to new pinion) and adjust the shims to get it right before you ever even put the pinion in.

sean

[Klasick68]

Usually the pinion is damn close, the only one that wasnt was a scout R+P in a chev D44 housing (not sure why, but there were NO shims in the scout, and it took quite a few (I forget how thick the total was). The carrier shims seem to be really close, and have always worked for me. I think this summer I am gunna make a set of setup bearings (open up the ID till they are a loose fit) so that I can get the setups better, might help abit. Thanks
Dan