^^^ How do you like the Wixey angle level?

Also, here's mine... Almost exclusively scrap steel. Only about 5' of 2x2x.25 in it as well. The main arms are about 6" shorter than spec, the gusset arms are only 1.5x.120 wall and the base is a bread cart from ingles plus some 3/16" angle. So it's quite a bit lighter than most here, but it's still heavy as hell...
So far I've only bent 1.75x.120 DOM and it did just fine, but I have to repin the die once for a 90* bend, I might try mounting the ram in a different hole.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5018/1000230cp5.jpg

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9351/1000229ab2.jpg

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/6936/1000231os3.jpg

I like the spring idea to pull the arm back down.

^^^ How do you like the Wixey angle level?

Works great. Far more accurate than the dial type angle gauges I had. Use it for a lot more than bending tube as well. Anyway, get the tubing in the die, pump a few times to get it tight, zero the guage, bend to whatever angle ( plus springback) and you're done.

I do not know if I left a post here already, but I made up some instructions to modify the old HD tube bender plans to an Air/Hyd setup. If you purchased my plans just drop me an e-mail and i will hook you up.

Frank Takacs
www.gottrikes.com

I'll be milling a set soon, I could make you a set but it'll be about a month before I have the time.

I am looking for a set of all the mounting tabs, that is all I am missing.

whats the differance between the HD tube bender plans and the Air/Hyd tube bender plans? what one is everyone else on here using?
im going to order the plans as soon i know... i want the heavist duty one for 2" stuff and with the air hydro ram

thanks

whats the differance between the HD tube bender plans and the Air/Hyd tube bender plans?

One is just a normal hand operated ram, the other uses a Air/Hydro ram...
Check out his site for more information.

what one is everyone else on here using?

I'm building the Air/Hydro model (Style B).

oh thanks

cant you just put a air/ram on the manual one?.... i like the base of the manual one better on the gottrikes site... it looks like all the other ones that people on here build but i could be wrong

oh thanks

cant you just put a air/ram on the manual one?.... i like the base of the manual one better on the gottrikes site... it looks like all the other ones that people on here build but i could be wrong


From what I've gathered the Air/Hydro version is a modified HD to accommodate for the extra space the Air/Hydro ram takes up. It's also a fairly new revision, and given how old this thread is, most built it before the Air/Hydro model was out. They just modified the HD to fit...

The 'Style B' of the Air/Hydro also has the specs for the "space saver frame", which if you're building this in the first place isn't to hard to figure out. :D

cool, ill order that one then

thanks alot

I ordered the AH Model the other day.. I had the plans in my inbox within an hour of ordering it.. I have briefly looked them over and they look very good.. I can't wait to get started on this project..

sweet... this pay pal thing sucks i may not be ordering for a while, aparently i already had an account but i dont have the same e-mail anymore and something happend and my account is locked so im waiting for pay pal to verify stuff....

here coupons for hf

http://www.streetsource.com/forum/topic.aspx?topic_id=91925&Topic_title=Anyone+shop+at+Harbor+Freight%3f&forum_id=13&forum_title=MiniTruckin+General

I just finished up converting my PT 105 to full hydraulic vertical mount. It works great!
I didn't get pics tonight it got dark befor I could get the pic. I'll have to post up later.
Basicly I made the frame out of 3"x4"x5/16" Rectangular tubing. I know it is over kill but that's what I found at the scrapyard.
I used a 3"x18" two way hydraulic cylinder that I had sitting around for the ram and hooked it up to a really old, ugly hydraulic power unit that I bough a couple years ago at an auction for $5, it is nothing more than some old hydraulic pump coupled to a 1 hp 115 volt electric motor, a resevoirthat holds a couple of gallons and a 2 way hydraulic valve.
I use this hyd. unit to power my press also so I just added some quick connect couplings and some hoses to the "new" bender.
This is the epitomy of booty fab probably, $50 in steel ( Damn this scrap metal has gotten expensive!) and the rest Is stuff I had laying around!
I tested it out on some 1.75"x .120" HREW and it did what I wanted with no problem.
The hyd set up isn't real fast but that allows better accruacy.
This thing is heavy!! Probably about 250 lbs. for the frame, cyl. and bender setup. But I wanted it that way, it's more stable to work with.
The 18" ram is a bit short I can only get about 40 Degrees bend on a full stroke so this means I just need to repin the die 3 times to get a full 90 degrees, It's kind of a pain but not too bad.
I did a 180 deg. bend just to test it out and I had no problems, just a bunch of repinning.

Well, I have my bender finished. I'm ready to start to play with it. I have a 1.75 inch 240 degree die and 11 or so feet of 1.75inch dom. Could someone give me a "BEST" order of operations for setting up a length of dom to bend, I've read tinbenders article but I would really like to know what people have found to be the best and most efficient way to set up the tube in the bender.

thanks
kevin

Well, I have my bender finished. I'm ready to start to play with it. I have a 1.75 inch 240 degree die and 11 or so feet of 1.75inch dom. Could someone give me a "BEST" order of operations for setting up a length of dom to bend, I've read tinbenders article but I would really like to know what people have found to be the best and most efficient way to set up the tube in the bender.

thanks
kevin

Best/most efficient way is to buy bendtech and calibrate it for your dies. Then you waste nothing. :) Plus it's awesome software.

Not looking so much for info on bending and calculations, more for overall operations, installing tube, lubricating dies, repinning, removing the tube etc etc.

thx
k

Not looking so much for info on bending and calculations, more for overall operations, installing tube, lubricating dies, repinning, removing the tube etc etc.
I ain't no expert, but a few things are:
1) use clean tube with no rust
2) lube the follower die; I use lithium grease; I don't know what's best
3) I re-pin when the ram has maxed out; mine will bend about 75 degrees per ram stroke
4) keep an eye on the follower die; you don't want to gawld it
5) be careful; there are some combinations of dies and ram pin locations that can let the ram shaft hit follower die
6) I'm sure there are more..............

Good Luck,
NIB

Thanks:
The piece of tube I have has some rust on it so I'll clean it up. Found the pt105 manual online so I might try a 3' section tomorrow to do the 90 degree bend that tinbender said to start with. I'm just finding the bender awkward to load but, I'm sure it will get better w/ more experience.

Take some advise and go buy your self some 1.75"x.120 HREW tube to practice on, It's way cheaper than DOM. I just hate to see anyone waste good DOM Tubing.
I just bought HREW for $2.50 /foot where my local suppliers ARE selling DOM @around $8/ft.

just ordered the prints cant wait to get started...

Bender works nice ... mine is a manual pump. 200 or so pumps and repinned twice for a 90 (good excercise). Only problem is the 1.75 tube is a bit#$ to get out of it. I've been driving the pin on the die clamp out w/ a brass punch. Is there an easier way?
Working on the first project ... simple rectangular rollbar for our british convertible, nothing fancy, just a few bends and a couple of pieces of straight tube.

Only problem is the 1.75 tube is a bit#$ to get out of it. I've been driving the pin on the die clamp out w/ a brass punch. Is there an easier way?
I don't think you should have to do that; at least I've never had to do it. Seems like on mine, if I pick up the end of the tube that hasn't been pulled thru the die, the tube will get loose enough to get the tube strap off.

NIB

Yes, I agree but it seems that the tube is putting a lot of tension on the strap. Perhaps it has something to do w/ the spring back. I've tried putting a bar in the arm and pushing it back w/ no success. Anyone have any ideas on this? On the other hand after a few bends the bender is getting easier to set up. Maybe it is just me getting better at it.

I added a tubing lenght calculator to the website. I checked the dimensions against my CAD program and it was right on. It needs Excel to open. Go to www.gotTrikes.com tube bender page and click on the link.
Frank Takacs
www.gotTrikes.com

Thought I would bring this back to the top. I just bought these plans last week. I'm waiting on my 1.75 x 6 x 240* die to get here along with my pins from mcmastercarr. I am milling just about everything in school. So everything should be dead on. I am planning on having a buddy powdercoat it at work once its done. I will post up pics after that.

Thanks for a great product and support Frank!

I surf slickdeals.net (http://www.slickdeals.net/) and yesterday I found someone posted an aircompressor at a smacking deal (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BRT&mfrpartnumber=AC02PM) so I poke around and what do I find for $17.71?
Check this out! (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=640812) {edit}Ok, you may need to first enter your zip then search on item 640812 at
parts america (checker auto) (http://www.partsamerica.com/)

Specs:
Min - 24.5
Max - 43.3
stroke - 18.9

I visited 5 local stores and only one had it available for pickup in store.

The recommended HF model (94562) (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94562) is
Min - 24.25
Max - 42.875
stroke - 17.5

HF also has a model without the base flanges (95967): (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95967)
Min - 24.25
Max - 42.875
stroke - 19.625

Which I purchased last week. The sign in the store indicates a different stroke (which makes sense, I think the body is the same as the 94562) and it did not have {base mounting} holes as shown in the photo.

Thanks for the killer thread!

I surf slickdeals.net (http://www.slickdeals.net/) and yesterday I found someone posted an aircompressor at a smacking deal (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BRT&mfrpartnumber=AC02PM) so I poke around and what do I find for $17.71?
Check this out! (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=640812) {edit}Ok, you may need to first enter your zip then search on item 640812 at
parts america (checker auto) (http://www.partsamerica.com/)

Specs:
Min - 24.5
Max - 43.3
stroke - 18.9

I visited 5 local stores and only one had it available for pickup in store.

The recommended HF model (94562) (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94562) is
Min - 24.25
Max - 42.875
stroke - 17.5

HF also has a model without the base flanges (95967): (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95967)
Min - 24.25
Max - 42.875
stroke - 19.625

Which I purchased last week. The sign in the store indicates a different stroke (which makes sense, I think the body is the same as the 94562) and it did not have holes as shown in the photo.

Thanks for the killer thread!


I checked, it showed 99.00 and none available. Oh well.

I just got the plans this weekend, and am starting to source parts. I am going to modify the bender in 2 ways, I have a Monarch 12V Hydraulic pump/reservoir/valve assembly from a drumm handler, (clamps and picks up 55 gallon drums) with a 20" stroke 3" ram, and I am going to make the arms out of 3/4" instead of 1/2" plate. I have read about reinforcing the dies, and will gusset them accordingly. My goal is to be able to bend .250 wall 1.5" tubing for my trac bars, along with .120 wall 2" for cages etc.. Has anyone had any problem with the 1/4" wall 2x2 box uprights flexing? Just trying to overbuild as needed. Thanks Murf

I checked, it showed 99.00 and none available. Oh well.

I just got the plans this weekend, and am starting to source parts. I am going to modify the bender in 2 ways, I have a Monarch 12V Hydraulic pump/reservoir/valve assembly from a drumm handler, (clamps and picks up 55 gallon drums) with a 20" stroke 3" ram, and I am going to make the arms out of 3/4" instead of 1/2" plate. I have read about reinforcing the dies, and will gusset them accordingly. My goal is to be able to bend .250 wall 1.5" tubing for my trac bars, along with .120 wall 2" for cages etc.. Has anyone had any problem with the 1/4" wall 2x2 box uprights flexing? Just trying to overbuild as needed. Thanks Murf
I also tried several zip codes in my area to cover more stores. Just noticed my zip now shows none available.

Today recevied a HF 15% off coupon on the flier for those who are local to HF and are on their mail list. Last week I used a 10% off coupon (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=0&t=739497)found on-line (through slickdeals).

Where did you read about the reinforcing the dies? I was looking at some 2x3 tubing in the scrap pile, but it wasn't 1/4" so I haven't started yet. I did find a plate of 3/4" so I will price out having the arms cut. Also the site for the dies was having issues, so haven't ordered those yet. Wanted to have the die & jack on-hand before starting. I was thinking about making up some square dies by layering thin plate.

$0.40/lb for the plate was $0.20 less than many yards here.

I was staring at an engine stand at one Checker. Thinking how that might work for most of the base.

Just an FYI I ordered my die on 2/7 and its supposed to be shipping somewhere around the 22nd. Im waiting to have my die in hand as well to start assembly/welding. Not sure if Protools is making these to order or what. So plan on a few weeks to recieve it.

Murfman1967 - I dont think the 2x2 x 1/4 would flex but if you are concerned about it and want to crazy overbuild it you could always use some 2x2 solid bar stock

I ordered my steel shafts from Mcmastercarr and used the part numbers listed a few pages back.

#6061K333 Hardened Precision Steel Shaft 7/8" OD, 12" Length $11.98
#6061K606 Hardened Precision Steel Shaft 1" OD, 8" Length $9.87

Turns out these areThompson shafts. At least the ones they sent me. 60 case hardened. Very nice. I bought 12" lengths for both. The 1" x 12" was only $12. They dont tell you shipping but its very reasonable. I only paid $6 for shipping. And had them on the 3rd day.

Rocket.. Thanks for the tip.. I picked up the last ram they had at the Kragen in Temecula.. I also ordered the steel shafts from McMaster today and am going to look for steel on Saturday.. I guess I better decide on what size die I want to buy so I can get that ordered.. :D:D

Just an FYI I ordered my die on 2/7 and its supposed to be shipping somewhere around the 22nd. Im waiting to have my die in hand as well to start assembly/welding. Not sure if Protools is making these to order or what. So plan on a few weeks to recieve it.Where did you order from? http://xtremecrawlers.com/ has been dead for a few days now. Before it at least said "we're working on our website" or some such.

Mike was another recommended source and the more recent messages indicated he wasn't replying to requests for quotes.

What I've read while looking for a source is they are indeed made to order, or close to it. Depending on where you get them, and what you are getting, it might be in stock (at least one guy was able to get one in a few days).

At some point I'll have to figure out a size. Maybe I should start a poll,...

Turns out these areThompson shafts. At least the ones they sent me. 60 case hardened. Very nice. I bought 12" lengths for both. The 1" x 12" was only $12. They dont tell you shipping but its very reasonable. I only paid $6 for shipping. And had them on the 3rd day.Man, my Mcmaster orders have come just as fast or faster. I have no idea how they do it. My last order was a solar pump, which I couldn't find locally. They didn't state the name in the catalog, but when it arrived it was a drop-in replacement so I only had a couple of solder joints to screw up. I should have just ordered it than wasting the time locally.

Thanks for the tip on the pins.

Where did you order from? http://xtremecrawlers.com/ has been dead for a few days now. Before it at least said "we're working on our website" or some such.

Try this site. Not sure why the other URL doesn't work, but this is the one that Keith lists in his sig on OFN
http://www.xrschassisinc.com/catalog/

He's the guy I bought my die from

Here are a couple pics of mine. Die came from Mike Green 4x4. Harbor frieght 8 ton air over hydro. Little slow but works mint:smokin:

Where did you order from?

You can order directly from the manufacturer. http://www.pro-tools.com

Dealers often seem to have better prices even though they do drop ship from pro-tools.

Keith @ Extreme Crawlers is very knowlegable about bending and offers good service and advice. Be aware, when price shopping compare apples to apples as there are some options available when ordering dies that some dealers include in the price and some do not.

John.

You can order directly from the manufacturer. http://www.pro-tools.com

Dealers often seem to have better prices even though they do drop ship from pro-tools.

Keith @ Extreme Crawlers is very knowlegable about bending and offers good service and advice. Be aware, when price shopping compare apples to apples as there are some options available when ordering dies that some dealers include in the price and some do not.

John.Thanks for the links everyone. Found Keith's after poking around the vendor forum and noticed it in his sig. Was going to update my post after lunch,.. darn work! Funny, I had that bookmarked at some point. Another thread in the vendor forum is where people weren't hearing back from Mike Green.

What die options would not be included from dealer to dealer?

Yes I ordered from Keith. But I am waiting on pro-tools, NOT Keith.

Try this site. Not sure why the other URL doesn't work, but this is the one that Keith lists in his sig on OFN
http://www.xrschassisinc.com/catalog/

He's the guy I bought my die from

The web server he was using has had really bad service. After being down for about 2 weeks, it came back up and Keith rebuilt his site under the xrschassisinc.com name/server and then put a temp URL jump from the xtremecrawlers to that new site. He told the old server company that at the end of the month he wasn't going to re-up because he changed companies. Within 5 minutes they wiped out his entire site and didn't wait until the end of the month.

I know what he went through because I had the same service from the same knuckleheads about 6 months ago with my site and the theOFN.com

when price shopping compare apples to apples as there are some options available when ordering dies that some dealers include in the price and some do not.

John.

What kind of options are you referring to??????

What kind of options are you referring to??????

120* v/s 240* die?

Different CLR?

Example 1.75" 120* 6" CLR die is $209
7" CLR 120* +$13.50
6" CLR 240* +$67.50
7" CLR 240* +$94.50

120* v/s 240* die?

Different CLR?


I don't think this is what he was talking about..... His quote: "...some options available when ordering dies that some dealers include in the price and some do not."

Shipping is about the only thing I can think of, however, I don't know of anyone selling JD2 or PRO-Tools dies that is including shipping.

.

I don't think this is what he was talking about..... His quote: "...some options available when ordering dies that some dealers include in the price and some do not."

Shipping is about the only thing I can think of, however, I don't know of anyone selling JD2 or PRO-Tools dies that is including shipping.

.

A Vendor on ebay will give free shipping on all dies/accessories if you also purchase a bender at the same time. Can save a chunk of change. Shipping on the bender is $35.

A Vendor on ebay will give free shipping on all dies/accessories if you also purchase a bender at the same time. Can save a chunk of change. Shipping on the bender is $35.

you havent bothered to even read this thread have you?:shaking:


guidolyons - I dont think that is what he is talking about unless he has no idea about dies and no idea which die he would want. I know when I got quotes I asked for 1.75 x 6 CLR x 240*

I cant find ANY options with die sets anywhere online.

Anyone build this bender with the JD2 dies? Instead of protools... I know some people that have jd2 dies so it would be nice to be able to borrow a die from them if I need a different one, since they are so expensive.

I believe the dies are different and not interchangeable. I could be wrong.

I believe the dies are different and not interchangeable. I could be wrong.

I dont think they are interchangeable, but I'm wondering how easy it would be to modify the premade plans to work with the jd2 dies.

gotcha. you send me a jd2 die and I'll let you know:D

What kind of options are you referring to??????

Keith orders all dies with the tension block welded on.

I have one question for those of you that have built a got trikes bender. Why hasn't anyone made the uprights longer so you can get the HF ram more vertical? IMHO this design is seriously flawed in this respect. This bender is nothing more than a simple bellcrank, you have enough power available to start the bend. A bell crank by design has a full 90 plus degrees of capable rotation before going into toggle, what's up with this?

IMHO this design is seriously flawed in this respect.
Why don't build one and show us how it's done before you start running off at the mouth? :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


.

If this bender is so flawed then how come it has worked great for so many people? This is a homebuilt bender, not rocket science.

I have one question for those of you that have built a got trikes bender. Why hasn't anyone made the uprights longer so you can get the HF ram more vertical? IMHO this design is seriously flawed in this respect. This bender is nothing more than a simple bellcrank, you have enough power available to start the bend. A bell crank by design has a full 90 plus degrees of capable rotation before going into toggle, what's up with this?

Why would you want the ram more vertical? I dont think I'd want to lengthen the uprights, cosidering the stress exerted on them when bending. I am collecting parts to build be bender as we speak, but found a 24" stroke 3" ram, so I am extending the rear legs out to accomodate the longer ram. The only other change to the plan is my swing arms are going to be 3/4" thick. I've heard of people bending and breaking 1/2" and 5/8" plates on other benders, So I figured what the hell. I got the steel for free anyway.

Nib this ones for you pal!:flipoff2:AHOLE!
I am in no way putting this bender down! The concept is great but the plan is flawed seriously flawed. Even basic knowledge of bellcranks would immediatly alert you that the ram placement is wrong big time. I am well into the design/ fab of a true 1 shot 90 degree bender usings this fellas work as a starting point. I will put it to you non beleivers this way ( and if you just visualise this before running your mouth you will understand) (the ram) in a totally retracted state needs to be in a 47-50 angle (with the tube somewhat loaded in the dies) to the upright. This will allow 2-7 degrees of spring back and attain a one shot 90 degree bend. As the plans clearly show the design set forth has the ram at a 30 or so degree angle to the upright, this will only allow a 60 -70 degree bend. The ram has way way more capability than what is used in this design and in doing this slows the bend time down tremendously. The vertical design is king and this fella has done the coarse home work but the tweaking of the design (only slightly) will result in faster bend and true 90 degree 1 shot bends. I will post up pics when done and help all that want help with this, yeah except for the ahole NIB again nib this ones for you pal!:flipoff2:

Why would you want the ram more vertical? I dont think I'd want to lengthen the uprights, cosidering the stress exerted on them when bending. I am collecting parts to build be bender as we speak, but found a 24" stroke 3" ram, so I am extending the rear legs out to accomodate the longer ram. The only other change to the plan is my swing arms are going to be 3/4" thick. I've heard of people bending and breaking 1/2" and 5/8" plates on other benders, So I figured what the hell. I got the steel for free anyway.

Might want to check everything at full extension before welding it all up. The only complaint I've got with mine is that if I'm not paying attention, the ram will contact the follower at around 85 - 90 degrees

If I'm thinking about this right having an even longer ram kicked back further will make the contact happen sooner.

Might want to check everything at full extension before welding it all up. The only complaint I've got with mine is that if I'm not paying attention, the ram will contact the follower at around 85 - 90 degrees

If I'm thinking about this right having an even longer ram kicked back further will make the contact happen sooner.


What size die is this happening with?

What size die is this happening with?

1.75"

The bottom of the ram is moved toward the upright, the upright is longer, no contact is made with the die or tube.

I am in no way putting this bender down! The concept is great but the plan is flawed seriously flawed.
Why is it that any thread on Pirate more than 2 pages long will eventually attract some 2 post wonder dumb ass like flies to shit? :homer:


.

I would be interested in seeing this new design.....as I am looking to build one in the next few months. Let the best design win! :D

Nib this ones for you pal!:flipoff2:AHOLE!
I am in no way putting this bender down! The concept is great but the plan is flawed seriously flawed. Even basic knowledge of bellcranks would immediatly alert you that the ram placement is wrong big time. I am well into the design/ fab of a true 1 shot 90 degree bender usings this fellas work as a starting point. I will put it to you non beleivers this way ( and if you just visualise this before running your mouth you will understand) (the ram) in a totally retracted state needs to be in a 47-50 angle (with the tube somewhat loaded in the dies) to the upright. This will allow 2-7 degrees of spring back and attain a one shot 90 degree bend. As the plans clearly show the design set forth has the ram at a 30 or so degree angle to the upright, this will only allow a 60 -70 degree bend. The ram has way way more capability than what is used in this design and in doing this slows the bend time down tremendously. The vertical design is king and this fella has done the coarse home work but the tweaking of the design (only slightly) will result in faster bend and true 90 degree 1 shot bends. I will post up pics when done and help all that want help with this, yeah except for the ahole NIB again nib this ones for you pal!:flipoff2:



I don't think it will work with the HF ram. I drew it up every way I could think of on cad and there just isn't enough stroke in the ram to get a 90* bend and not have it hit the follower die or tube on larger dies. That was using the HF ram specs found on their website for lengths and stroke, I'm not sure how that differs from what the actual ram does.



Edit: For Murfman... with a 24" stroke on the ram, you can make the swept arms longer to keep the ram away from the die and still make it around for a one shot 90* bend. Just get some graph paper and draw it out, it'll work.

I bought the plans the other day. I really don't need a bender right now and probalby won't buy a die for a while....but I already have all the materials laying around and I need a project to keep my busy for a few days.


The plans are really well laid out, btw.

I built this bender about two years ago. It is the one on got trikes site that he has put a picture that has a caption (some build it awesome) or something like that. It is full hydro. I've used it quite a bit. The ram will hit the follower die, I bent one before realizing that.:shaking:
It isn't a perfect design, tube doesn't sit level as mentioned before. I built leveler legs to steady and level it. That took care of that problem and made it more stable.
Can't make a one shot 90 degree bend as also stated. But I've found that isn't that big of a deal. Hell I can back the ram off and re pin it pretty quick. The tension stays on the tube when re pinning it. Just not that big of deal. If you were using this thing in a fab shop, it might be more of a pain in the ass.
I did a write up on it on rocky mountain extreme when I built it, with part numbers and costs and such.
For a hobbyist like myself it is a pretty good bender. I've bent quite a bit of 11/2 .250 wall. Doesn't even slow it down.
Anyway, just my .02 worth after having built and actually used it. it.:flipoff2:

I drew it out on graph paper, looks like I need 10" more length or heigth to get the ram to fit in the bender, I'm thinking heigth now, I called Monarch today, as they make the pump assy I have, looks like it'll do 2000 PSI no problem, and it has 3 built in 2 way valves and one 4 way. I may have to add a second Reserve tank to hold extra fluid, thats all. Its a 12 V DC pump, so I will probably add a Yellow top optima to the cart, and it will be completely self suffecient. trail side cage bending? No, but outside in the summer time, working on my Farmer tan :D

My mind is racing now! I found a Rotary encoder for 20.00 on ebay, and I can get a controller from work for free to convert the pulses into degrees, with auto setpoints to stop the pump at pre set values. I should be able to repeat bend angles precisely with the push of a button. Looks like my cages will actually be symmetrical now :flipoff2:

I am also thinking of getting a press type tubing notcher, and running it too off the hydro on the same cart.

What is the OD of a 7"CLR die? Just want to graph that out too, to make sure everything clears.

Shouldnt it be right around 14"?

murf it is 14 plus 1 tube diameter.

Thanks, I thought that right after I posted, and was ready for flaming.
Straight8 with your planned mods, how many degrees do you think you will be able to get without re-pinning? What stroke ram are you looking at?

murf with a 2" tube .... 7" clr I get 95degrees
1.75 tube.. 6" clr I get 103 degrees
It increases from there.
by nature a bellcrank decreases in force after 90 degrees of stroke hence the design to get a full 95 with .120 wall 2" tube ---- from there is a piece -O cake!
I am betting the farm based on previous tube bending experience... knowing that 2" .120 wall needs to be over bent by 5 degrees to end up at a true 90

I have allowed 2 extra degees in the design for slop- knowing that it will loosen up after the first few bends.

I will post up dimensions when I bend the first 10 bends in 2" .120 wall

Just so you know++++++ using the HF ram we are on the edge of being able to bend a 1 shot 95 degree bend in 2" 120 wall.

The bottom line is that this HF ram WILL bend 97 degrees in one shot on 2" 120 wall without the ram hitting the tube if the bender is designed correctly!

murf with a 2" tube .... 7" clr I get 95degrees
1.75 tube.. 6" clr I get 103 degrees
It increases from there.
by nature a bellcrank decreases in force after 90 degrees of stroke hence the design to get a full 95 with .120 wall 2" tube ---- from there is a piece -O cake!
I am betting the farm based on previous tube bending experience... knowing that 2" .120 wall needs to be over bent by 5 degrees to end up at a true 90

I have allowed 2 extra degees in the design for slop- knowing that it will loosen up after the first few bends.

I will post up dimensions when I bend the first 10 bends in 2" .120 wall

Just so you know++++++ using the HF ram we are on the edge of being able to bend a 1 shot 95 degree bend in 2" 120 wall.

The bottom line is that this HF ram WILL bend 97 degrees in one shot on 2" 120 wall without the ram hitting the tube if the bender is designed correctly!


I am NOT using the HF ram, I am using a 3" x 24" stroke Lion Hydraulic cylinder, and a Monarch 681 12V Hydraulic pump/Reservoir/valve. I have drawn it out, and am still tweeking the dimensions to be able to get the most out of one shot. I am going to look into making the arms "L" shaped to get a little more extension and room for the die to ram clearance. I already decided to make the arms out of 3/4 CRS. I also plan on making the mounting ears that weld to the top of the upright box tube out of 3/4, and to extend them down to the top die pinning hole to help shore up the box tube. I know with my hydraulic setup, I will have more power available to me, and dont want to overload the frame if I get stupid bending heavy wall DOM.

Nice read on the benders! Ive reading this section for about 2 days now lol. BTW this is my first post! :smokin: Sweet site! I have some blue prints for JD2 arms an Dies.

Im not sure how to attach them on here? But they are in PDF format.

You need a Star... (must subscribe and support the site)
Or If you E-mail them to me I'll post them up. Murf

Or you can post them on Photobucket and link them here.

Nice read on the benders! Ive reading this section for about 2 days now lol. BTW this is my first post! :smokin: Sweet site! I have some blue prints for JD2 arms an Dies.

Im not sure how to attach them on here? But they are in PDF format.

yep. so does google.

I don't know what any of you are talking about with the clearance issues with the 1.75" follower. I just finished my "Air/Hydro Style B" bender directly to specs. I only things that is different is that I moved the upper tabs down about 11/16" to get my tube level (actually 0.3 degrees, close enough) with a 1.75" 6"CLR 240degress die. I've done a few bends with it and have not had any clearance problems. I do have to re-pin the die at about 65 or so degrees, but thats no big deal.

I'll post some pictures when I finish painting it up, right now its all back apart so I can add some finishing touches.

I don't know what any of you are talking about with the clearance issues with the 1.75" follower.
It depends on which set of holes you are using in the arm for the ram attachment. If you use the ones closest to the end of the arms, the ram can't hit the follower, but you also have to repin more often. If you use the holes in the arm closest to the die, you can bend farther in one stroke, but you can also damage the ram if you've had one to many beers. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out which one makes more sense to use. :shaking:

It depends on which set of holes you are using in the arm for the ram attachment. If you use the ones closest to the end of the arms, the ram can't hit the follower, but you also have to repin more often. If you use the holes in the arm closest to the die, you can bend farther in one stroke, but you can also damage the ram if you've had one to many beers. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out which one makes more sense to use. :shaking:

I think you are talking about a different bender design. It sounds like both of you are talking about the JD2 hoorizontal style bender. We are tslking about the vertical bender from Gottrikes, it uses the same dies, but bends vertically. Is it better? I'm not sure, but I like the vertical bending action better, it takes up less floor space, and IMHO it is easier to keep things plumb.

I'm talking about the vertical bender, like the one I built: Tube Bender Photos (http://www.fototime.com/inv/B49C54B15CE0ECE)

If you use the end mounting holes in the arms, the ram cannot contact the follower at full extention like it can if you use the holes further up the arms.

NIB

I'm talking about the vertical bender, like the one I built: My Bender (http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7B144C71-4425-4F5F-BA03-394AF3214F02}&inv=B49C54B15CE0ECE&userid={7B144C71-4425-4F5F-BA03-394AF3214F02}&inv=B49C54B15CE0ECE&albumid={73171185-EB25-49CE-AA33-2BE9EA5CE5D8})

link takes me to log in page

I think I fixed the link now. Tube Bender Photos (http://www.fototime.com/inv/B49C54B15CE0ECE)

I'm talking about the vertical bender, like the one I built: My Bender (http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={7B144C71-4425-4F5F-BA03-394AF3214F02}&inv=B49C54B15CE0ECE&userid={7B144C71-4425-4F5F-BA03-394AF3214F02}&inv=B49C54B15CE0ECE&albumid={73171185-EB25-49CE-AA33-2BE9EA5CE5D8})

If you use the end mounting holes in the arms, the ram cannot contact the follower at full extention like it can if you use the holes further up the arms.

NIB

Not to keep arguing about a topic that isn't worth it, but... it looks like we're both talking about different benders.

As per the plans I received (which seems to have a few changes from yours) there is only one set of holes on the end which the ram attaches. It also seems like there are several (2 pair) more holes in the uprights to accommodate more dies.

So, it looks like we're both right and anyone building plans off the "new design" won't have any issues. Re-pinning the die isn't a big deal to me, maybe I just haven't bent enough tube yet to let it bother me.

Funny, Frank must have seen that problem and changed the plans, the plans I have only have 1 hole for the ram mounting point on the arm,

On another note, my Rotary encoder showed up today:smokin: I am going to mount this on the pivot point of the arms centerline with a drive tab. It puts out 600 pulses per 360 deg, so I should hed 1/2 deg accuracy. I can control this with a PLC controller I got form work to actually control the pump and valve to bend to a set degree, or reproduce a bend for symmetry. The Encoder cost 15.00 on Ebay, and the controller was a freebie that I replaced with a newer model. I should be able to display the degree of the bend with 1/2 degree resoloution.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00601.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00602.jpg


Here is a link for the controller. http://www.gse-inc.com/indicators/Model660.aspx Its a bit overkill with 128 output slots, Hell I can hook it up via the ethernet port and control it from my laptop at the Starbucks WiFi when it is in my Garage, but the price was right :mr-t:

I think I fixed the link now. Tube Bender Photos (http://www.fototime.com/inv/B49C54B15CE0ECE)

Nice :D

http://www.fototime.com/D50B6E516B84689/standard.jpg

Not to keep arguing about a topic that isn't worth it, but... it looks like we're both talking about different benders.

I guess the new arm design is different from the design I bought from him last year. The photo above are my arms right after drilling. The end on the left side of the photo shows the 4 positions that the ram can attach to. I guess the new design only has one position.

NIB

I asked Frank about issues in this thread (such as where the tabs were mounted) and he said they had been incorporated in the revised design (as well as other issues). He also changed the diagonal supports to accommodate the offset of the air/hydraulic jack.

There are some photos and cad drawings of the current design on the gottrikes Air/Hydraulic Tube Bender (http://www.gottrikes.com/AH_tubebender.htm) page.

As the Checker jack is a tad different, I'm going to model it prior to cutting anything.

http://www.gottrikes.com/images/Air-Hyd_bender/IMG_5674s%20copy.jpg
Yep, only one set of ram mounting holes now. Damn, I drilled 6 extra holes for nothing! :eek:

NIB

Won my Ram on Ebay today!! Prince 3" bore 24" Stroke.

Another quick Question. Anyone build this bender modified to accept the Protools BRUTE bender dies? IIRC they are 3 1/2" wide instead of 3" and there are dies available for 2 1/2" tube. The 2 1/2" die is spendy ~450.00, and I dont think I'll ever use 2 1/2", but am contemplating building the bender to accomodate just in case. I'd hate to build it and need to bend 2 1/2" someday.

Funny, Frank must have seen that problem and changed the plans, the plans I have only have 1 hole for the ram mounting point on the arm,

On another note, my Rotary encoder showed up today:smokin: I am going to mount this on the pivot point of the arms centerline with a drive tab. It puts out 600 pulses per 360 deg, so I should hed 1/2 deg accuracy. I can control this with a PLC controller I got form work to actually control the pump and valve to bend to a set degree, or reproduce a bend for symmetry. The Encoder cost 15.00 on Ebay, and the controller was a freebie that I replaced with a newer model. I should be able to display the degree of the bend with 1/2 degree resoloution.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00601.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00602.jpg


Here is a link for the controller. http://www.gse-inc.com/indicators/Model660.aspx Its a bit overkill with 128 output slots, Hell I can hook it up via the ethernet port and control it from my laptop at the Starbucks WiFi when it is in my Garage, but the price was right :mr-t:
I've been talking about doing that for 3.5 years since I had the idea in freshman engineering projects when we were required to make something with a BASIC PLC (my group at the time wanted to build something else far far gayer instead :shaking: ), just never had time or money since then. Keep us posted.

Also lastnight we redesigned our bender to handle thin walled tubing. We were sucessfully bending 1.25x.035. I'll post a writeup soon.

I've been talking about doing that for 3.5 years since I had the idea in freshman engineering projects when we were required to make something with a BASIC PLC (my group at the time wanted to build something else far far gayer instead :shaking: ), just never had time or money since then. Keep us posted.

Also lastnight we redesigned our bender to handle thin walled tubing. We were sucessfully bending 1.25x.035. I'll post a writeup soon.


Please share the info, a mandrel is going to be a future upgrade, kind of why I was thinking about the 2 1/2" die capability for some exhaust work here and there, I have 4 current car projects that would all get by with 2 1/2" exhaust, and have not had any luck locally finding a good shop.

Please share the info, a mandrel is going to be a future upgrade, kind of why I was thinking about the 2 1/2" die capability for some exhaust work here and there, I have 4 current car projects that would all get by with 2 1/2" exhaust, and have not had any luck locally finding a good shop.

We aren't using a mandrel, we redesigned the follower die system. Basically we used our 3axis CNC to machine a 1.25 diameter channel lengthwise down a piece of 2x2x18in aluminum. Then we took a large bearing and machined a slug to its inner diameter attach it to the pin that held the follower die. The hole that the pin goes through is off center, and we drilled and tapped the slug and pin so they move together in a cam action. We then machined a hex into the top of the pin so we can use a 3/4 socket to tighten the bearing against the piece of aluminum channel which holds our tubing. Right now it takes two people to bend, one to hold the bearing tight against the channel, and one to do the bending. When we have more time we'll make a piece to hold the pin from rotating so it stays tight.

The reason this works is because the new follower moves with the tube instead of dragging along it. It still deforms the inside of the tube slightly like these style of benders always do, but we can now do thin tubes without kinking them.

Took us maybe 1.5 hours with two people to build :flipoff2:


And I just spent 20minutes making this when I should have been doing Controls homework, I'm calling your ass when I fail :flipoff2:

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/4501/bender2to4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

And I just spent 20minutes making this when I should have been doing Controls homework, I'm calling your ass when I fail :flipoff2:

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/4501/bender2to4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

THAT took you 20 min to draw?


you should fail.........


:flipoff2::flipoff2:

THAT took you 20 min to draw?


you should fail.........


:flipoff2::flipoff2:

That included writing the post and finding somewhere to host that picture. :flipoff2:

Got my Encoder working today, I'll get pics up later tonight. 1/2Deg accuracy, Setpoints for 1 button bending, set the target angle, and press start. Will turn off the pump at the desired angle. I can also save the exact angle when I make a bend and use it as the target for the next bend, should be able to reproduce bends to the 1/2 degree. I will also be able to save overbend angles for various tube diameters, and different CLR dies. Now I'm thinking about 2 more encoders, another rotary for recording the tube CL angle, for multi axis bending, and a linear for positioning the tube lengthwise. I'd be able to draw it up in bend-tech, plug in the angles, rotate the tube and position it manually with the displayed angle and length on the readout and make the bend. Now all I have to do is build the bender :(

Here are some pics of my controller:

The Controller is a GSE 560 Scale head I removed from a customers plant when they upgraded. It has 8 PDIO ports and can read rotary and linear encoders, along with load cells and pressure transducers. I program these things for a living, and after 14 years, I finally found a personal use for one.

This controller can operate up to 128 I/O, so I could theoretically control 128 different valves, pumps etc.. I dont think I'll be running out anytime soon.

I'd like to figure out an encoder to get the tubing rotation dialed in, along with length. I am also going to add a pressure transducer to watch how hard my ram is working, just bling, but I figure it will be nice to know. I may upgrade to a 4 x 20 line display to show more information concurrently, Ie : Target angle, current angle, hydraulic pressure, etc..

Zero reading:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00604.jpg

Note the Encoder shaft position:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00605.jpg

Entering my Target:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00606.jpg

Bend complete:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00607.jpg

I can add code to the program to remember the spring back of different tubing diameters / wall thicknesses, and the tightness of the angle, and automatically compensate for this. This will most likely be the most time intensive part of the programing, as I will have to actually bend different tubing to different angles.

Quick question, is it a linear change Ie: does the spring back get progressively greater for the same tube as the bend gets to tighter? Say 2" .120 wall tube has 5 deg spring back at 90 deg, does it have 10 deg spring back at 180?

BTW, all my steel arrived friday, waiting on my 3" x 24" Hydraulic cylinder. I want to mock everything up before cutting and welding.

Also: willing to program and set up another one of these controllers in exchange for some dies, Pro Tools 105 style.

Murfman, That encoder is sweet! :eek:

24 pages, you guys have too much free time. Is anyone selling these yet? Is there anything even close available commercially at a reasonable price? Somebody build me one.

What would you consider a reasonable price for the bender with an air over hydraulic HF ram (no dies)?

NIB

I had a few PMs, so here goes... I can supply a controller like this for 500.00 programmed for 1 axis (The bend)and a 4 position output card for controlling up to 4 valves and or pumps, or a 2 in 2 out card for up to 2 remote switches (Start/Stop or limit switches to keep your ram from hitting your die) and up to 2 valves or pumps you would have to source the Rotary encoder, I picked mine up on Ebay for 20.00. When I finally figure out the 2nd and 3rd axis, I will be able to E-mail you a file to update the program.

This controller will also control Pneumatic solenoids, so I can set you up if you are using a Air over Hydraulic Jack like the Harbor freight one specified in the plans!!

I can only get 4 controllers at this price, after that, I'll have to look into sourcing more, but they will be at least 200.00 more.

I'll put on the ram, saves on freight. You can make it out of scrap $400:flipoff2:

I'll put on the ram, saves on freight. You can make it out of scrap $400:flipoff2:
The problem is that you can easily end up with over $200 in materials alone. And that don't include ridin' around huntin' up shit. I probably wouldn't pay more than $400 for one, but I wouldn't build and sell one for $400 either.

NIB

Damn Murfman, you just took that to a whole 'nuther level :grinpimp:

Here are some pics of my controller:

The Controller is a GSE 560 Scale head I removed from a customers plant when they upgraded. It has 8 PDIO ports and can read rotary and linear encoders, along with load cells and pressure transducers. I program these things for a living, and after 14 years, I finally found a personal use for one.

This controller can operate up to 128 I/O, so I could theoretically control 128 different valves, pumps etc.. I dont think I'll be running out anytime soon.

I'd like to figure out an encoder to get the tubing rotation dialed in, along with length. I am also going to add a pressure transducer to watch how hard my ram is working, just bling, but I figure it will be nice to know. I may upgrade to a 4 x 20 line display to show more information concurrently, Ie : Target angle, current angle, hydraulic pressure, etc..

Zero reading:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00604.jpg

Note the Encoder shaft position:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00605.jpg

Entering my Target:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00606.jpg

Bend complete:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00607.jpg

I can add code to the program to remember the spring back of different tubing diameters / wall thicknesses, and the tightness of the angle, and automatically compensate for this. This will most likely be the most time intensive part of the programing, as I will have to actually bend different tubing to different angles.

Quick question, is it a linear change Ie: does the spring back get progressively greater for the same tube as the bend gets to tighter? Say 2" .120 wall tube has 5 deg spring back at 90 deg, does it have 10 deg spring back at 180?

Damn that thing is nuts.

I was able to rough cut all my 3/4" yesterday, so my arms, pivot blocks for the arm, and lower ram mounts are in progress. Anyone have any pics of the gottrikes bender modded for the 24" stroke ram and a one shot 90 + deg bend?

The Harbor Freight Ram is on sale for $70:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94562

They also have a digital angle finder for $40:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=96874

I been following this thread and also bought the plans from Frank. Got lucky and picked up the Powerbuilt air/hyd ram from Checker for $17. Having everything redrawn in AutoCad I've also been moving this around to try and get the best range out of the bender.

After reading the guys post about getting a 90° in one shot, I moved the swing arm way up to achieve 90°. Obviously the design of the main structure will need to be modified some. I come up with an overall height of 44-1/2". Now if someone could tell me how to attach an acrobat reader pdf file, I'd like to share it and hear some of your comments. I'm not sure if the bender will operate properly in this config. Great thread!

I been following this thread and also bought the plans from Frank. Got lucky and picked up the Powerbuilt air/hyd ram from Checker for $17. Having everything redrawn in AutoCad I've also been moving this around to try and get the best range out of the bender.

After reading the guys post about getting a 90° in one shot, I moved the swing arm way up to achieve 90°. Obviously the design of the main structure will need to be modified some. I come up with an overall height of 44-1/2". Now if someone could tell me how to attach an acrobat reader pdf file, I'd like to share it and hear some of your comments. I'm not sure if the bender will operate properly in this config. Great thread!You must have a red star (pay) to post attachments. Someone else can post it for you however. I would be most interested in seeing what you've done as I haven't had time to even look at the jack since I dropped it in the garage.

i am curious why no one uses a link set up similar to the ones used on back hoe and excavator buckets to make a single shot bend well over 90* without the cylinder hitting the die?

You must have a red star (pay) to post attachments. Someone else can post it for you however. I would be most interested in seeing what you've done as I haven't had time to even look at the jack since I dropped it in the garage.

You Can remotely post with no red star.

Right, forgot that. You have to setup a host somewhere for the pdf and post the link here.

Went looking for the red star info and found searches have a restriction too.

Anyway,.. Red Star Payment Info (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/payments.php)

Right, forgot that. You have to setup a host somewhere for the pdf and post the link here.

Went looking for the red star info and found searches have a restriction too.

Anyway,.. Red Star Payment Info (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/payments.php)

Not anymore search is free for all. As non payer you have to wait longer to search again though.

"Went looking for the red star info and found searches have a restriction too."
Not anymore search is free for all. As non payer you have to wait longer to search again though.I would classify a 5 minute wait between searches as "a restriction". Especially when you forgot to press the 'posts' button.

i am curious why no one uses a link set up similar to the ones used on back hoe and excavator buckets to make a single shot bend well over 90* without the cylinder hitting the die?http://www.ubuilditplans.com/image1/GHSkidSteer2.jpg

Well, I $hit canned the 90° idea. In order to do it with my ram I would have had only 1° on the starting angle. Thinking that it would bind and never get the bend started, I changed back to something more like the got trikes plan.

I now have 71° of bend in one shot and the structure is back to the standard height.

I sent my dwg cut sheets to the guy at our company who runs the burn table and now waiting to get the material back. My entire main structure will be made of 1/2" SA612 plate since we have an abundance of it laying around.

If only we had a hi-def burn sys I could have done everything in one shot. Now I have to do all the holes on the drill press down in the shed. Should take no more than twenty nine hundred beers (give or take)...

I've seen a lot of hydro conversion on the JD2 and Pro-Tools benders. The thing I always wondered was why they didn't put the ram on a flange mount pivot. Seems to me that would take care of the low starting angle on those benders which, I believe, is the reason some people tend to break the arms. (aside from bending some heavy walled tube).

Could something like that work for this style of bender?

I've seen a lot of hydro conversion on the JD2 and Pro-Tools benders. The thing I always wondered was why they didn't put the ram on a flange mount pivot. Seems to me that would take care of the low starting angle on those benders which, I believe, is the reason some people tend to break the arms. (aside from bending some heavy walled tube).

Could something like that work for this style of bender?

What do you mean by flange mount pivot?

http://www.vansantent.com/images/mod3hyd.gif

Similiar to what they already offer for the Model 3 bender. It eliminates the high start angle inherent with most hydro conversions. All you have to do is give the cylinder a way to pivot and leave the far end free. I'm currently doing some research before I start gathering parts for a hydro conversion on my JD Model 3. My problem is that I've been having problems finding a suitable cylinder that will mount the way I want without spending big $$$. I've been wondering if a standard Lion cylinder can have it's tie rods replaced with longer ones to accept a additional plate on the front end with a pivot. I've also thought of a multi linkage set-up, but haven't gone any further than that. It's not at the top of the list right now...

I've been wondering if a standard Lion cylinder can have it's tie rods replaced with longer ones to accept a additional plate on the front end with a pivot.

I dont think I'd trust that, all the force of the Ram would be on the tie rod bolts, as the back end of the ram would be pulling against them, IMHO they are NOWHERE near strong enough for that. There are rams made to be mounted that way, they are more expensive because they have to be built that much stronger.

Yes, but they are designed to be push/pull cylinders. When pulling, the load is fully supported by those tie rods. There is a reduced force, depending on the piston rod diameter, but it is still within the working range of that cylinder. Unless I'm missing a giant warning label that says not to exceed a pressure lower than rated during retraction, I see no reason why it couldn't be used with a flange mount. I would also expect a seal to blow out well before a tie rod broke.

Let's make an assumption. Let's say those tie rods are regular 1020 cold rolled steel and are 1/2" in diameter. Four tie rods gives a surface area of 0.785 in^2. 1020 cold rolled steel has a yield strength of 50,800 psi. This gives a required force of almost 20 tons to fail the tie rods. This is 3 times the maximum rated pull load for a 2500 psi 3" cylinder with a 1.5" shaft. This is also assuming a stalled load, I don't have actual data, but I don't think the model 3 requires that much tonnage to 2.00x0.125 HREW or even DOM.

I would like to find an actual flange mount cylinder to save the hassle of modifying an existing one, but I do see it as an option. But like I said, it's not on the to-do list right now. My original line of thought was whether or not the homebuilt bender listed above could benefit from a pivoted cylinder.

Tie rods are normally made from Stressproof. I build custom cylinder for a living and that what we use on tie rod cylinders.

What's that good for strength wise? 50-60,000 psi? Any major alarms go off in your head when I talk about using a tie rod cylinder as a flange mount? Other than the fact that it's not "designed" for it? Do you know what kind of pre-load is applied to the tie rods during assembly? Or maybe a torque spec with a thread pitch? Thanks

What's that good for strength wise? 50-60,000 psi? Any major alarms go off in your head when I talk about using a tie rod cylinder as a flange mount? Other than the fact that it's not "designed" for it? Do you know what kind of pre-load is applied to the tie rods during assembly? Or maybe a torque spec with a thread pitch? Thanks

Yield strength is 100,000psi. We build tie rod cylinder all the time that have trunion mounts close to or on the rod head, I am not a engineer but I dont sea a problom with mounting it this way.

I think 1/2-20 are 45ft-lbs, 5/8-18 are 120ft-lbs.

http://www.vansantent.com/images/mod3hyd.gif

Similiar to what they already offer for the Model 3 bender. It eliminates the high start angle inherent with most hydro conversions. All you have to do is give the cylinder a way to pivot and leave the far end free. I'm currently doing some research before I start gathering parts for a hydro conversion on my JD Model 3. My problem is that I've been having problems finding a suitable cylinder that will mount the way I want without spending big $$$. I've been wondering if a standard Lion cylinder can have it's tie rods replaced with longer ones to accept a additional plate on the front end with a pivot. I've also thought of a multi linkage set-up, but haven't gone any further than that. It's not at the top of the list right now...


There is a good thread on offroadfabnet.com for hydro conversion JD2 using on HF ram with a piece of tube as a large clamp on the body of the ram. Some of the pics are not working, but most are: http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303

Anyone use these pins? Found them at McMastercarr
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=91640A150

Thinking the T handle would be a nice touch.

If the link does not work, its Mcmaster.com and the part # is 91640A150

Anyone use these pins? Found them at McMastercarr
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=91640A150

Thinking the T handle would be a nice touch.

So I have the stell for this , and the plans but you said you had a mill correct? Wonderin if you could give me a hand drilling this since you local , and I have yet to buy a drill press. I have the upright's done just not the swing arms.

Also, I'm considering putting a bronze bushing in the main pivot pin hole, any reason I should NOT do this?

So I have the stell for this , and the plans but you said you had a mill correct? Wonderin if you could give me a hand drilling this since you local , and I have yet to buy a drill press. I have the upright's done just not the swing arms.

I was planning on working on the arms tomorrow after work! I am doing mine out of 3/4" stock, and making it 1" longer to help clear the die at full extension as I have 24" of travel in my ram. Call me tomorrow.

So what is the most recent , awesome ram to be using. I need to purchase steel for the lower part , and a drill bit , but I am almost done with mine . Just need to finish some holes , and build it.

I got my holes piloted , need a 7/8 bit , and 1 1/4 bit. I have your number but didn't see this till today. Anyways I will try to catch ya tomorrow but will be in Vegas wed-fri.Then on a wheeling trip for the weekend. I have tried to catch ya before but never actually reached you.

do you think bronze will hold up to the pressure without deforming?

So what is the most recent , awesome ram to be using. I need to purchase steel for the lower part , and a drill bit , but I am almost done with mine . Just need to finish some holes , and build it.

I got my holes piloted , need a 7/8 bit , and 1 1/4 bit. I have your number but didn't see this till today. Anyways I will try to catch ya tomorrow but will be in Vegas wed-fri.Then on a wheeling trip for the weekend. I have tried to catch ya before but never actually reached you.


I am using a lion 24" stroke 3" bore 2500PSI ram, Have to modify the bender for it, however, as it is considerably longer than the HF jack, and as it is stronger, I went with 3/4" arms, which causes the frame to be wider etc... Just about every dimension has changed, even the Ram pins are now 1" instead of 7/8ths. It is a downward slope for sure..

do you think bronze will hold up to the pressure without deforming?

That is what I was worried about. I am making 2 sets ofArm supports, 1 with and 1 without bushings, I'll try it both ways and see what works better.

The downward slope sucks. I can't find drill bits.

Finally had a chance to do the machining this weekend. The only machining left is the 7/8" holes in the 2 x 2 box tube, and Chamfering all the holes and sharp edges.

Arms 3/4":
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00631.jpg

Hydraulic Cylinder base pivots and the spacer for the arms(clearanced for the Cylinder):
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00630.jpg

Pivot block:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00629.jpg

Finally had a chance to do the machining this weekend. The only machining left is the 7/8" holes in the 2 x 2 box tube, and Chamfering all the holes and sharp edges.

Arms 3/4":
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00631.jpg

Hydraulic Cylinder base pivots and the spacer for the arms(clearanced for the Cylinder):
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00630.jpg

Pivot block:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/DSC00629.jpg

Well let me know when you get back in town , so you can help me with a few holes. :D

My plans changed a little I'm leaving Friday, and will be gone for ~ 10 days..

My plans changed a little I'm leaving Friday, and will be gone for ~ 10 days..

It's all good. Whenever you get back if I haven't bought a 7/8 , or 1 1/4 bit yet ....

big 91 can you introduce me to the chick in your avitar? woweeeee! i would hit that shit and aint even seen her head yet!

I scored a 1 1/2 110deg 5CLR die on Ebay for 130.00 today:D I am ordering some 7/8" and 1" hardened shafts today, as I cant wait for the freebies any longer. I want to get theis thing done already..

I scored a 1 1/2 110deg 5CLR die on Ebay for 130.00 today:D I am ordering some 7/8" and 1" hardened shafts today, as I cant wait for the freebies any longer. I want to get theis thing done already..

Nice. Lemme know when your in the shop so i can stop by for that bit.

It's all good. Whenever you get back if I haven't bought a 7/8 , or 1 1/4 bit yet ....

harborfreight has those bits for dirt cheap. Silver & deming bits. They cut that thick steel like butter if ya keep em lubed. We used brake fluid of all things for lube, and they ate right thru it.

I scored a 1 1/2 110deg 5CLR die on Ebay for 130.00 today:D I am ordering some 7/8" and 1" hardened shafts today, as I cant wait for the freebies any longer. I want to get theis thing done already..

I scored a 1 3/4 6" 110 Die for 175 shipped off ebay so we should be good lol...:D Now i need to get a jack finish my holes and assemble.

For all you folks with air over hydraulic benders. What's the minimum air compressor should i get?

Ok, so I am following this thread from beginning to end right/, and I see the picture you have as your profile picture....I almost forgot I was looking at the tube bending thread!!

Ok, carry on!



You Can remotely post with no red star.

I scored a 1 1/2 110deg 5CLR die on Ebay for 130.00 today:D I am ordering some 7/8" and 1" hardened shafts today, as I cant wait for the freebies any longer. I want to get theis thing done already..

I use D60 cross shafts for 7/8" pins on my bender, they work great.

Im using tractor pins from TSC , i work there so I figuered id try them. Havent bent anything thick yet but when i do ill let yall know how it went.

Interesting die technique at the hobart welding forum:
http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=29578

got my plans... about to build... question though..
why are you guys making part H (the crossover support for the tower support) step up like that??? was there ram interference with it mounted inline with the 45* support rails???


dc

There was interference if you tried to use the air over hydraulic ram that Harbor Freight sells. There wasn’t enough distance to fit the ram between the two 45’s you refer to. You really need more room than you would think because the ram mounts in the center but it is much wider on one side than the other due to the hand pump/valve or the air piston assembly.

The new plans added the H part to allow more room and to keep the structure square. I just pulled the bottom of the 45’s out far enough to clear the ram.

NIB

Finally had some time this weekend to get back on the bender

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00941.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00940.jpg

The eprights are 50" tall, I just tacked the lower ram mounts to the base to check the range of motion on my arm. I can get ~95 degrees in one shot. Obviously there is still a shit-ton of work left, I need to make mounts for the battery, Hydraulic power unit, CNC control and trnsducer. I also need to add the support legs, feet and casters, but it was cool moving the ram with air and seeing it move.

Harbor Freight Store Flier (http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/tabviewer/startBrowseBook.do?bookid=207&preview=&type=RET&simple=) has the 8 ton long ram Air/Hydraulic jack (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94562) for $60 until June 9th.

All I have left is getting a couple of hoses made up, and wiring the CNC control to the pump.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00943.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00944.jpg

96 degrees in one shot:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00945.jpg

Wheel detail (Its a heavy bitch!)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00948.jpg

Extending leg detail:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00949.jpg


Ad just because it is Pirate :flipoff2: :
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00950.jpg

question for murf
whats the extension on that ram?

loving the bacon :D

-Erik

question for murf
whats the extension on that ram?

loving the bacon :D

-Erik

It has 24 inches of travel.
Mmmm Bacon

Got the hose, should be able to fire it up this weekend.

So has anyone else had to block up there bender so they could bend a long piece with multiple bends so it does not hit the floor?
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/DSC01143.jpg

So has anyone else had to block up there bender so they could bend a long piece with multiple bends so it does not hit the floor?
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/DSC01143.jpg

Why are you putting bend there, unless you are going to go back and do the other side later? I made my base wide enough to grab with my forklift for that situation just in case..:smokin:

why not put a sandbag or weight on the other side?

Why are you putting bend there, unless you are going to go back and do the other side later?

The other side gets the same bend also.

why not put a sandbag or weight on the other side?

Its not that its tipping over, its that it hits the floor.

:doh: looked other way in the picture lol

So has anyone else had to block up there bender so they could bend a long piece with multiple bends so it does not hit the floor?
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/DSC01143.jpg

looks like a wake tower

looks like a wake tower

Yup sir.

Would someone please pm me the plans for the gottrikes tube bender, it would be greatly appreciated.

Would someone please pm me the plans for the gottrikes tube bender, it would be greatly appreciated.
Shit no. Go to his web page and buy them you fawkin tight ass. :flipoff2:

i'm with NIB support the cause and fork out your 18$

if you know whte name you obviously know where to buy it at

while your at it i reccomend you buy the bearing and knob kit if you dont ahve the means to do that yourself

I went ahead and bought the plans, what can I saw I'm a fawkin tight ass:flipoff2:

Hey, we are all tigh ass fawkers. :p But as little as the designer charges for the plans and the fact that he updates them to from time to time to incorporate improvements, we need to make it worth his while and continue to support him. You da man! Now get to building!

NIB

all you that have made this bender. now that steel is costing 3x as much would you guys still build this bender? or just buy one? i just paid 55$ for 8 feet of 2x4 and dont know how much this will end up costing. not counting the huge arms

all you that have made this bender. now that steel is costing 3x as much would you guys still build this bender? or just buy one? i just paid 55$ for 8 feet of 2x4 and dont know how much this will end up costing. not counting the huge arms

I gave up on it. I like my buddys normal bender so I bought one. A saves time , b saves effort , and c i know it will work , and have support for it too. IT really ins't that cheap between steel , and time .

Doing it over I would probably buy a protools since their package deal comes with the die of your choice. But I do like the vertical bending versus horizontal and the fact that this bender rolls out of the way and doesn't require anchors in the ground. It's also nice to know I built it.

I have a PT105 bender that I made years ago and I'm building one of these because I like the portability and self contained design that can roll out of the way when not in use. It's also easier to use by myself when loading long tubes and get everything setup. I'm reusing the arms from my bender and the rest of the steel ran me around $50 at the local surplus steel yard (sold by the lb).

all you that have made this bender. now that steel is costing 3x as much would you guys still build this bender? or just buy one? i just paid 55$ for 8 feet of 2x4 and dont know how much this will end up costing. not counting the huge arms

I'd still build it, I like the Vertical Vs Horizontal myself, It is easier to do solo. If you buy one, to compare apples to apples, you need to factor in the price of a cart to make it portable (If Hydro) to me it is a no brainer beyond that, I have access to box and plate steel for free (in moderation). I was also able to modify the plans to suit my own needs and incorporate the numerical control. I will be adding length and rotation to my controller later this summer. Plus I like the idea of doing it myself..

I am just finishing mine up.. I was able to use 80% used steel on mine and bought the ram on sale.. The most expensive piece was the die.. I figure I have under $500 in mine and $300 of that was the die.

I would build it again..

Thanks again Guys for your support.

With the high cost of steel going up and up I still suggest to buy surplus steel if you can. There are steel salvage yards that sell remanence and you can build the bender for a fraction of the new stock. I do not know what your local area has for salvage yard but look around. They ship it to China,

Frank Takacs
www.gotTrikes.com

Has anyone figured out how to use this bender with larger dies like 2 1/2",like the 105 brute uses?Does it bend 1 3/4" .25" wall tubing or does there need to be reinforcments made to not bend/break?Thanks a lot for the great thread, I will be making one shortly as money allows.About to go support gottrikes.

Hi guys, I just bought the blue prints, its a really good job, very complete description.

Question is; will the ram works too???? is cheaper.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-TON-AIR-HYDRAULIC-LONG-RAM-JACK-ROUND-BOTTOM-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a570Q7c39Q3a1Q 7c66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec 0Q2em14QQhashZitem360091582791QQitemZ360091582791




ITEM FEATURES:


*

Capacity: 8 Ton
*

Closed Pin Center Distance: 24-1/4"
*

Stroke 21-1/2"
*

Air Pressure: 0.75-0.85 Mpa
*

n1/4"-18NPT Air Inlet
*

47-1/4" Long Hose

It is not that much cheaper (or at all) once you add in the $40 shipping.
With a coupon, you used to be able to get the HF ram for about $75 shipped, not sure about that anymore.

With a coupon, you used to be able to get the HF ram for about $75 shipped, not sure about that anymore.

Yeah, but I'll bet they won't ship it to Chile for that price.

Yeah, but I'll bet they won't ship it to Chile for that price.

Good point, I didn't see his location.

Yeah, but I'll bet they won't ship it to Chile for that price.

Thats not a problem, we have weekly vessels going up & down moving Chilean fruit to the states :D

I will check if some others providors have it, but you are all right, the Harbor Freight shipping is just 10 bucks.-

mine.:)

Made all the dies also. Need to finish the frame (add a lower shelf) and then powder coat. Works pretty good.

I'd say not worth it unless you have a lot of resources (machine shop)

That looks great. I wish I had the machienery to make the dies. Mine is almost done, and I'm very excited. I have tubing waiting!

mine.:)Made all the dies also. Need to finish the frame (add a lower shelf) and then powder coat. Works pretty good.


That's great that you were able to make the dies too. It looks good.
Do you a couple more pics taken from the left side (ram base side)?

not on me, but I'll take some tonight. I think I'll finish up the frame tonight also

I have been lurking over here and think that I will try the vertical setup on my JD2 bender due to space constraints. I had already purchased the HF air over hydraulic unit, and this thread confirmed that it will work. On the topic of digital gauges, I ran across a joint in England that has a digital angle gauge with a remote encoder. Looks :grinpimp: so I ordered one and will have to see how it works. Oh yeah, it was $56 shipped.....

http://www.allendale-stores.co.uk/dro/images/rotary_connected.gif

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=137

Ran across this up in the vendor's forum:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734642
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=753609

http://www.probender.com/

I have been lurking over here and think that I will try the vertical setup on my JD2 bender due to space constraints. I had already purchased the HF air over hydraulic unit, and this thread confirmed that it will work. On the topic of digital gauges, I ran across a joint in England that has a digital angle gauge with a remote encoder. Looks :grinpimp: so I ordered one and will have to see how it works. Oh yeah, it was $56 shipped.....

http://www.allendale-stores.co.uk/dro/images/rotary_connected.gif

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=137

Def post up on how this works out.

I have been lurking over here and think that I will try the vertical setup on my JD2 bender due to space constraints. I had already purchased the HF air over hydraulic unit, and this thread confirmed that it will work. On the topic of digital gauges, I ran across a joint in England that has a digital angle gauge with a remote encoder. Looks :grinpimp: so I ordered one and will have to see how it works. Oh yeah, it was $56 shipped.....

http://www.allendale-stores.co.uk/dro/images/rotary_connected.gif

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=137

any testing yet?

Just finished our bender last week - it is painted, waiting for it to fully cure before it goes back together.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0009.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0009.jpg)http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0012.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0012.jpg)

Can't wait to get some tube to bend - shoved in some pre-bent roll cage tubes I have and everything lines up perfectly!

That degree block looks nice - but the swing arm moves alot before the tubing actually starts bending. I have the same device sans the cord and other stuff with rare earth magnets on it - I just stick it on the die tube clamping block and it records the angles it is bending perfectly.

I get 74* in a single bend without hitting anything - the ram reaches max extension. Had to grind on one of the uprights and on the jack to make it clear - but it won't affect the strength. Why are some people putting those "u" shape gussets over the middle of the bender?

Thanks for the great design Frank!

really interested in the angle finder with built in rotary encoder. just finished my jd2 hydro bender and using the degree wheel kinda sucks. Site says the gauge has a zeroing button, so would u just be able to extend the ram until just before the tube starts to bend then zero it and go from there? Or would this be considered an inaccurate way of doing it?

hey thanks for finding the digital gauge shop:smokin::smokin:

just ordered one too, i have been looking for long time angle measuring devise like it.

they have many other digital readouts for cheap too:smokin::smokin:

i will post results too when my electric rotary bender is ready

That's pretty much how you do it.

I have been lurking over here and think that I will try the vertical setup on my JD2 bender due to space constraints. I had already purchased the HF air over hydraulic unit, and this thread confirmed that it will work. On the topic of digital gauges, I ran across a joint in England that has a digital angle gauge with a remote encoder. Looks :grinpimp: so I ordered one and will have to see how it works. Oh yeah, it was $56 shipped.....

http://www.allendale-stores.co.uk/dro/images/rotary_connected.gif

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=137


I'll see your digital angle display, and raise with one that automatically shuts off at a desired angle:

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x205/murfman_photo/Tools/DSC00950.jpg

I threw it together, the display is a digital scale head I got from work, it has a PDIO port that I was able to configure to read a rotary encoder. It als has digital IO (Relays) that I can control by angle. pretty much enter the desired angle, (the scale head adds the needed springback) and press start. the head zeroes out the die and begins the bend, shuts off automatically when the bend is done.

I already have FIVE JD2 dies and would love to use these bender plans.

And the question still remains:



HAS ANYONE CONVERTED THE ARMS HOLES YET TO BE USED WITH JD2 DIES?????

Dad borrowed my bender and I said hey while you've got it make a way to mount all the dies, blocks and pins and see if you can find a way to mount a degree ring on that thing too.. So he added some hangers for the dies etc and found a degree ring for $10 on a local board and hooked it up. I figured I would share.

442321

442322

442323

So I finally had enough of the manual jack and built a new 2.5x21" cylinder at work. My hydro unit sucks so it is really slow but it sure beats pumping by hand. The cylinder will do a 90* bend in one shot.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0250.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0249.jpg

So I finally had enough of the manual jack and built a new 2.5x21" cylinder at work. My hydro unit sucks so it is really slow but it sure beats pumping by hand. The cylinder will do a 90* bend in one shot.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0250.jpg
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0249.jpg
:eek: holy crap that stroke is long. NICE

So is anyone fabbing these for profit yet?

Quick question for those of you that have built and are using yours...

I built mine a little while ago and just started using it recently. Thing is when going to release the tube from the die, I have to whack the crap out of the pin holding the strap with the tube in it in order to get the tube out. The springback forces exerted on the strap do not make getting the tube out very easy. Just wondering if there's something I'm totally overseeing here in how to work it, or thats just how it is?

After the tension is released from the ram I normally just pull up/down on the tube and it releases it from the strap and all comes apart easily.

heres mine its got a knuckle on the mount so i can mount it vertical, horizontal and every where in between.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/4runner/100_0542.jpg
o and i made the bender. thicker and wider than the standard jd2 bender.

heres mine its got a knuckle on the mount so i can mount it vertical, horizontal and every where in between.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/4runner/100_0542.jpg
o and i made the bender. thicker and wider than the standard jd2 bender.

What are you using to pull the ram back since it it's mobile.

What are you using to pull the ram back since it it's mobile.
I have a similar setup with the HF air/hydro pump and i just use the handle that i use to release the jack to pull it back. Takes like 3 seconds.

I have a pro tools with that ram and it takes more force to move it
thus why i asked.

This thread inspired me to build my own bender. I had plans of just buying a pro-tools, but this was much more fun! I need to weld the upper tabs for the die pivot, then buy a die, and im ready to bend some toob!

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/NEILZJ/Tube%20Bender/Image006.jpg

anyone built one to work with jd dies i can get the jd dies local and would be nice if i could use them.

I need to weld the upper tabs for the die pivot, then buy a die, and im ready to bend some toob!
Looks Good. The location of those two tabs is critical. Get them a little too high or too low and the tube will not be level with the floor. I suggest you tack weld them and then stick some tube in to see if you have them located correctly. I welded the shit out of mine and then had to move them a little. :homer:

NIB






.

Looks Good. The location of those two tabs is critical. Get them a little too high or too low and the tube will not be level with the floor. I suggest you tack weld them and then stick some tube in to see if you have them located correctly. I welded the shit out of mine and then had to move them a little. :homer:

NIB
.

Thats the plan stan. I read this entire thread and took every little tip and suggestion. I just gotta get the die then I can weld those tabs, as you can see they are just clamped currently.

Im getting excited to start bending!

i can't remember for sure, but it seems like moving the tabs up .020" changed the tube angle 1 degree.......or something like that.

i was also happy to find that after i got it level with the 1.75 die, it was level with the other sizes also.

nib

Hey guys,
I know this has been covered in the thread before, but it was around a year ago. Who has bought dies recently and where was the cheapest found. I'm thinking about 1, 1 1/2, 1 3/4. I have not figured which radius yet. If you have a favorite let us know which it is and why. I think there was a link set for Mike Green, I believe that is the right name. The link did not work for me. Is he still around? Any insight would be a great help. Thanks.

What are you using to pull the ram back since it it's mobile.
i use a rubber hammer on the die to knock it lose and my hip and my arm to pull the ram back together.

Hey guys,
I know this has been covered in the thread before, but it was around a year ago. Who has bought dies recently and where was the cheapest found. I'm thinking about 1, 1 1/2, 1 3/4. I have not figured which radius yet. If you have a favorite let us know which it is and why. I think there was a link set for Mike Green, I believe that is the right name. The link did not work for me. Is he still around? Any insight would be a great help. Thanks.


Mike Green (billyji is his screen name) is who you need to find. Here's his vendor thread for the Pro-Tools stuff. If you cannot get a hold of him, let me know. That shouldn't be a problem thought. His reputation is 2nd to none. If you don't believe me, or most of the people on Pirate4x4 who have purchased from him, just ask Pro-Tools what they think of him. Yes, I am biased since he's a good friend of mine, but I'm not BSing you either.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=797473

Morning All

Lance clued me in about this thread. I just finished reading it from the beginning. Being a Pro-Tools dealer for 6 plus years now, I will gladly offer any assitance I can. Truthfully though it looks like you have it covered !
I can say over the years I have sold numerous die to people using the gottrikes plans and I have never once heard 1 complaint. Everyone who has mentioned the plans or finished product have been very happy.
Pro-Tools die are made to order and right now we have about a 3 day lead time plus ground shipping UPS. The closer to Christmas we get the longer the lead time.

Mike Green :smokin:

Hey Mike, Thanks for the reply. When you get a chance can you p.m. the price if a few dies shipped to 97051. Here is my wish list.
1 1/2x6x 120*
1x3 1/2x120*
1 3/4x7x120*
Thanks for your help,
Eric

Thanks Mike, what a quick response. I'll be in touch....Eric.

ok so i just got done skimming through this thred and i heard some people saying that they can order the pro-tools hardend pins for 11$ but they said the pin that would go throught the up rights wouldnt be long enough so my question is what if instead of square tube..could i use 1 inch thick flat stock for the uprights...because then i could have my local water jet guy cut out all the holes for the arms and the uprights and possibly use the pro-tools hardend pins that would only cost 11$ then i would just have to build the base a little bit thinner so that my uprights could do the same as the 2x2 tubing....any ideas as to if tis would work? let me know

ok so i just got done skimming through this thred and i heard some people saying that they can order the pro-tools hardend pins for 11$ but they said the pin that would go throught the up rights wouldnt be long enough so my question is what if instead of square tube..could i use 1 inch thick flat stock for the uprights...because then i could have my local water jet guy cut out all the holes for the arms and the uprights and possibly use the pro-tools hardend pins that would only cost 11$ then i would just have to build the base a little bit thinner so that my uprights could do the same as the 2x2 tubing....any ideas as to if tis would work? let me know

Should be no problem. I built mine with 3/4" plate arms and uprights using the gottrikes plans that I strayed from somewhat.

ok cool because i figure then i could just cut it all at jet fab weld it all together and be done should be easier and alot mor accurate then drilling the holes...so thanks again for the input

ok so i was diggin around on here trying to reasearch these benders and what not when i cam across some dimensions for what i do believe is the pro tools 105 bender...just curious if this is what im seeing and if i could actually take these dimensions to my local water and have them cut out of 3/4 flat stock.....here is the link http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568979 ..... and they are the blue set posted by LCexplorer......let me know plz and thank you!

I have been kicking the idea of building one like this for awhile I was just wondering if any one makes dies big enough to bend exaust tubing?

Just bought the Plans from Gottrikes, they were e-mailed to me in about 45min.

Anyone know where to get drawings for the dies? Or have any general dimension of them? I have the capability to make my own for the cost of the steel.

Thanks.

FYI guys, you can order the hardened pins for your benders from Mcmaster Carr. Their prices are usually pretty good too.

Anyone know where to get drawings for the dies? Or have any general dimension of them? I have the capability to make my own for the cost of the steel.

Thanks.

I got my plans from Frank at http://gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm
I also ordered all the pieces from him that needed millwork as i didnt have access to a lathe. super easy and works awesome.

I got my plans from Frank at http://gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm
I also ordered all the pieces from him that needed millwork as i didnt have access to a lathe. super easy and works awesome.

I need plans or dimensions for the DIES, not the bender itself.

I need plans or dimensions for the DIES, not the bender itself.

They advertise the CLR - should be able to figure out the inner diameter of the die and spend hours on the lathe spinning it and cutting that groove into a block of steel.

I've got the Pro-Tools die and I live it very much
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0008.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0008.jpg)

Hey Frank...You got any plans on a winter sale on the plans plus the "b" kit? Thanks Eric...

Guys I didnt read all this thread so I hope Im not going to get flamed....

BUT, I cant fathom why anyone would build their own bender unless your getting free dies or shareing them with someone? Or only need one size die.

I use the ez bend 90 degree bender to build race car cages. I think Im nearing cage 100. It works well is vertical so it sits on my bench and I use a angle finder on the tube to measure the bend.

The total cost is 749.00 for the bender with 4 Dies. 1.0/1.25/1.5/1.75.

I got the foot operated air pump for an additional 149.00. Shipping to my door was 45.00 for a total of $943.00.


When I was looking at benders the other benders wanted 150-275 just for an additional die. Ez bend does make dies that will do 180 degrees but not for my bender. If I need a 180 which the only place I do is for drive shaft loops I weld two 90s together with a sleeve inside.

Here is easy bend with 4 dies.

http://www.commanderchassis.com/EZbend.html

Here is a great bender if you dont mind hand pump and only need one die. It is also vertical and can just sit on your floor. Its only 399.99 with one die.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2nd-Generation-Speedway-Hydraulic-Round-Pipe-Bender,4883.html

Heres my website if you want to see some cages etc. www.jnjfab.com there are lots of pics in the gallery.

Here is a great bender if you dont mind hand pump and only need one die. It is also vertical and can just sit on your floor. Its only 399.99 with one die.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2nd-Generation-Speedway-Hydraulic-Round-Pipe-Bender,4883.html
QUOTE]
From their website:
[QUOTE]This eight ton hydraulic jack bends up to .134 mild or .096 chrome moly round tubing.

I would want to bend at least .120 DOM

How much shipped to NJ? What is the thickness of the quare stock?

need to add more oil to it

[QUOTE=66jj;10519011]Here is a great bender if you dont mind hand pump and only need one die. It is also vertical and can just sit on your floor. Its only 399.99 with one die.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/2nd-Generation-Speedway-Hydraulic-Round-Pipe-Bender,4883.html
QUOTE]
From their website:


I would want to bend at least .120 DOM

Then your good to go. .120 is less than .134.

DOM is mild steel. DOM is the process used to form the tube. Drawn over mandrel. Versus EW. Electric weld.

DOM has closer thickness standards.

[QUOTE=BB1980;10521380]

Then your good to go. .120 is less than .134.

DOM is mild steel. DOM is the process used to form the tube. Drawn over mandrel. Versus EW. Electric weld.

DOM has closer thickness standards.

I checked that bender out and it says pipe bender in the description but tube bender on another part of it. Just want to make sure it wont kink tube like other pipe benders do.:homer:

I ordered a few smaller dies (.5" sq and 1" sq) from ProTools and these dies come with a smaller pin diameter to pull the die around. Its 3/4 versus 7/8. I'm guessing I need to turn some sleeves/adapters that are 3/4 ID and 7/8 OD that will slide in the arms when I want to use these dies. Has anybody else dealt with this?

Thx.

I just purchased the gottrikes bender plans. I have to let the folks that are thinking about this project know what a pleasure it is to deal with Frank. He provides a Great product. The plans are very clear and highly detailed. His response time is extremely fast. I just thought that I should let others know when I think they have done a "very good job".
Thank You
Eric

hey guys i got the plans and material and going to start making this bender but has anyone run into the problem of the harbour frieght hydraulic ram not having the mount on the bottom of the ram for the pin?? it is just flat and im thinking i have to make a saddle for it and wondering if anyone has this problem or if there is a better way?thanks

HJ sells two kinds. You got the wrong kind. Take it back and swap it for the one with the pin holes on the bottom.

so can you move the end of the ram up to the fourth hole and get more bend before repinning or is there interference? I am refering to the four sets of holes at the end where the ram attaches to the arms. It seems everyone just uses the last hole, what are the other three holes for.(pardon my ignorance) I notice NIB-98TJ did this but the plans only call for one hole. I am getting ready to build one and i am looking for any improvements you guys that built it would suggest. thanks

Yes, I moved it up to get more travel per stroke. But there are a couple of trade-offs.

You loose "bending torque" the farther you move the ram up. I haven't noticed that to be a problem, but I haven't bent any 1.75" DOM yet.

With the larger dies/followers, if you move the ram up too far, the ram can contact the bottom of the follower at full stroke. On Franks new design, the ram body may also contact the 2x2 cross piece; the old design did not have that cross piece in the same position (I think).

NIB

[QUOTE=66jj;10566730]

I checked that bender out and it says pipe bender in the description but tube bender on another part of it. Just want to make sure it wont kink tube like other pipe benders do.:homer:

It doesnt kink. Look at it its not a pipe bender.

www.jnjfab.com is my website I have built a few cages there are pics in gallery and diff pages.

I just ordered the plans yesterday. They look great! I also ordered a 1.75x6x240 die from mike4x4. I cant wait to get started on this.

:smokin:

hey guys i got the plans and material and going to start making this bender but has anyone run into the problem of the harbour frieght hydraulic ram not having the mount on the bottom of the ram for the pin?? it is just flat and im thinking i have to make a saddle for it and wondering if anyone has this problem or if there is a better way?thanks

HJ sells two kinds. You got the wrong kind. Take it back and swap it for the one with the pin holes on the bottom.

NIB is correct Nutty, if you can't exchange the ram, you can make the tabs. Just cut a piece of plate and bolt it to the ram and weld tabs to the plate. That's what I did because I didn't follow the BOM and bought the wrong ram.

NIB is correct Nutty, if you can't exchange the ram, you can make the tabs. Just cut a piece of plate and bolt it to the ram and weld tabs to the plate. That's what I did because I didn't follow the BOM and bought the wrong ram.

That might be a better idea than what I did because the pin holes on the HF ram were turned 90 degrees from what I needed and I had to make an adapter.

NIB

i looked on ebey and could not find those plans, could somebody put up a link?

http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm

I bought these plans maybe 3 years ago (old style plans), just *finally* getting around to doing something with them.

Got my die puller just about done, I only put two holes on the end for the ram, since it appears the newer versions don't have as many there. Picked up all of the 2x2 steel today. I need to turn some of the type B spacers in my lathe this weekend as well. Appreciate all the tips/knowledge in this thread..

http://webpages.charter.net/haggar1850/bender/milling2.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/haggar1850/bender/puller2.jpg

NIB is correct Nutty, if you can't exchange the ram, you can make the tabs. Just cut a piece of plate and bolt it to the ram and weld tabs to the plate. That's what I did because I didn't follow the BOM and bought the wrong ram.

thanks guys, i figured id have to do that cause it was a challenge just to get harbourfrieght to even ship up to canada. i will make it work thanks:D

any body got any pics of how you mounted a degree ring? i am almost done with mine , just waiting on the die to show up. not sure how the degree ring needs to be attached so it isnt in the way. thanks, jason

I don't have a degree ring. I bought one of those little $39 digital levels which reads out in 1/10's of a degree. I just stick it on one side of the bend and hit the zero button, then stick it on the other side of the tube to read the total bend.

so i got mine done and it bends like a champ... only problem is i cant get the tube out easily after a bend. Probably operator error, but .... It is almost impossible to get the clamp of the end of the tube. How is the easist way to do this? I am letting tension off the ram, but what i am doing wrong other than being a fawktard?????? thanks

so i got mine done and it bends like a champ... only problem is i cant get the tube out easily after a bend. Probably operator error, but .... It is almost impossible to get the clamp of the end of the tube. How is the easist way to do this? I am letting tension off the ram, but what i am doing wrong other than being a fawktard?????? thanks

Check back in the thread a few pages, soem others discussed things that work to pop it loose.

Mines all cut & drilled, I just need to turn the type-B spacers and then should be welding it up next week...

so i got mine done and it bends like a champ... only problem is i cant get the tube out easily after a bend. Probably operator error, but .... It is almost impossible to get the clamp of the end of the tube. How is the easist way to do this? I am letting tension off the ram, but what i am doing wrong other than being a fawktard?????? thanks

Two things that help me:

1) Bend shorter pieces of tubing so you don't have 16' or 18' of tube hanging off the back keeping tension on everything.

2) On mine, that tube strap rotates a little when I start bending. When I'm done with the bend, I can tap it lightly with a brass hammer to rotate it back straight and that takes some tension off the tube.

NIB

there is so much pressure on the strap, a hammer wont budge it. The tube slides right in and is perfectly levl out the back, but once i start to bend the strap is stuck... I have to beat th pin out that holds the tube strap on to release. thanks

I usually hit the tail end of the tube up out of the follower die with a dead blow, or if it's long enough just pull up on it till it pops loose. That releases all the pressure and the strap will come off.

In the got trikes instructions/plans it talks about drilling out something on the air/hydro air line to make it work faster. What was he referring to?

I just finished mine tonight and did my first bend. It works great.

The only air/hydro ram available at the harbor freight near me was the flat non removable base so I got that one. I ended up bolting a plate to the bottom and welding tabs to it.