I don't think that the air valve was drilled. I think the air valve was replaced with a 3/8" ball valve and a dryer/oiler installed.
Good Luck

I ordered the plans 2 days ago and still haven't gotten them, is Frank Takacs‏ possibly out of town?

Drop him an email; something may have fallen through the crack. Seems like my plans came in about 2 hours.

NIB

finally got a hold of him by phone and had to have the plans sent to another email addy, Hotmail didn't like the big file size and it never appeared...

Here is the alternative bottle jack design that uses a one-shot style die. These are free plans.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=436456

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/tube-bender/IM000195a.jpg

I'm thinking of trying to combine the two designs.

I like the idea of the traveling straight die, as I notice some squeezing of the tube around the bend in the pics on this page (6,) and I'm guessing it's from the drag of the stationary straight die on the "arm" type design. That squeeze on the tubing would be unacceptable for the kart frames I want to build.

I do like the 2x2 square tube frame though, and especially the orientation of the tubing with space around the top of the bender. The protools "plate" frame uses the jack so the stock tube to be bent goes in near the floor and the whole bender's frame, it seems, would be in the way.

So I'll get the 'free' Protools plans AND the trike ones, and make the trike bender with a traveling straight die roller. I know the dies sets cost more, but not that much considering the project total cost. That sounds to me like the best of of both worlds, perhaps narrowing the frame somehow so I can use the Protools pins, and a combo of plate and square tube on the frame.

This bender doesn't hold a candle to the bender designed by Frank Takacs. I can't see why anyone would want to build that bender, when you can just as easily build the Takacs bender. :)

You don't think a long, traveling straight die would make a better bend (because both 'follow' the tube,) than having the tubing "Slip" through a short stationary straight die? I know the shorter die is cheaper, but...

Just asking. I do agree the 2x2 .25" square tube frame looks MUCH sturdier than plate, which is why I want to build a hybrid.

Maybe someone with the ProTools200 type would have some experience to share about the "necking" of the bend I see on examples (Pg. 6) from the Takacs (stationary straight die) type.

Ordered my shafts and collars tonight, $28.xx plus tax/shipping. The only thing I dont like is it does not give you a shipping charge up front. It just says applicable charges will be applied. And you give them a credit card number!!!:eek:


That's always freaked me out about getting 4130 tube from Aircraft Spruce too.... I use 1.25 .083, .063 and 1" .083, 3/4" & 7/8" .083... and the shipping will KILL you today !


Anybody know a good source of tube, close to the Ohio Valley (Marietta OH / Parkersburg WV area) ? Also NO cheap square DOM around here...

That's always freaked me out about getting 4130 tube from Aircraft Spruce too.... I use 1.25 .083, .063 and 1" .083, 3/4" & 7/8" .083... and the shipping will KILL you today !


Anybody know a good source of tube, close to the Ohio Valley (Marietta OH / Parkersburg WV area) ? Also NO cheap square DOM around here...

Its a bit of a drive, but Dillsburg Aeroplane Works, in Dillsburg PA has the best prices on the east coast.

Its about 15mi north of york. About a 5hour drive from ohio. Get an order together from a bunch of guys in your club and split the fuel costs.

started working on mine this weekend, only have an afternoon into it so far :grinpimp:



http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs261.ash1/18831_533490249520_41900750_31505615_2093682_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs261.ash1/18831_533490254510_41900750_31505616_5808985_n.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs261.ash1/18831_533490259500_41900750_31505617_2365797_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs261.ash1/18831_533524650580_41900750_31506877_6047744_n.jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs161.snc3/18831_533524655570_41900750_31506878_627325_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs161.snc3/18831_533524660560_41900750_31506879_8281449_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs261.ash1/18831_533524665550_41900750_31506880_91363_n.jpg




in this last pic, i'm just using the 7/8 rod to keep everything aligned.. everything slides through drag free at this point. I will be using 7/8" and 1" drill rod for pins. Still need to drill the upright tubes and make some bushings. I will be using a bridgeport for those holes.

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs261.ash1/18831_533565359000_41900750_31508103_7899068_n.jpg

Its a bit of a drive, but Dillsburg Aeroplane Works, in Dillsburg PA has the best prices on the east coast.

Its about 15mi north of york. About a 5hour drive from ohio. Get an order together from a bunch of guys in your club and split the fuel costs.
Thanks !

Maybe I can incorporate a trip with a race weekend at SPR... (but I'd have to 'travel light' to get the tube in... yeah right - travel light to the track in vintage class, LOL)

Ok guys, I just finished building the first of 2 benders. Buddy bought the material if I'd make them, so I get a free bender :D

Gave my friend his bender, and he took it home to put the ram on it, and says the manual pump lever on the jack will not allow the jack to fit into the bender framework. He bought the right part number according to the plans, but I have not seen the bender yet with his jack on it (hes in another town).


Anyone had issues getting the ram to fit properly?

You need to post some photos. It could be many things.

NIB

I just got home from buying my steel. $99 for 20' 2x2x.25 and 4'x3"x 0.5". I already had some 5/8" plate. I should be able to get started on it this next week. My build will be using a band saw, a drill press, and a lathe.

I bought my ram air/hydro for $63+tax at HF today. I am at a total of $162
so far.

What is a good material to make the bushings out of?

Where is the cheapest place to buy my 1 3/4" 105 die set at?

ordered the shafts from mcmaster today 38.76 total of $201

Line Quantity Item � Ships Unit Price Total Price �
1 1 Each 6061K35 Hardened Precision Steel Shaft 1" OD, 12" Length today
$13.16 $13.16 �
2 2 Each 6061K333 Hardened Precision Steel Shaft 7/8" OD, 12" Length today
$12.80 $25.60 �

� Merchandise � $38.76

I think I found the first thing I am going to build when I get my plasma next week. This bender looks great and dad works in hydraulics and I am sure can hook me up.

Plan on starting mine in about two weeks. Looking forward to it. :smokin:

How accurate or how much play do you have in the backing block holes, on the uprights?

I measured and center punched the backing block holes. I then welded both uprites together and started to drill the 7/8" holes. I have the first 3 holes finished and there is a small difference on the vertical space distance between the holes. Will this be a problem and should I start over or can you make normally it work?

Thanks,
Rodney

I spoke to frank takacs today about the holes for the following block drifting a little bit. There is some room for error, but not much. After speaking with frank, I ordered my pro tools 105 die 1.75" x 6" x 240* and decided to wait on welding the pivot tab on the uprites, until I get my die. This way I can make sure it will be set up perfectly for the die I will mainly use. I also had a few hours to work on it tonight and I took some photo's. the die cost me around $330 with shipping.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/5749/038sj.jpg

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/6301/041zb.jpg

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/5719/048mg.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9327/049vd.jpg

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6734/050ij.jpg

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/8514/054q.jpg

I spoke to frank takacs today about the holes for the following block drifting a little bit. There is some room for error, but not much.

What I found was that the distance from the pivot block holes at the top to the holes in the uprights are very critical. I ended up having to cut my pivot blocks off and re-position them. The distance between the hole affects the angle that the tube will set in the bender before bending. I wanted the tube close to level, but it was 15 or 20 degrees off from level before I re-positioned the pivot blocks. Seems like .010" change makes about 1 degree difference.....or something like that.

Good Luck,
NIB

What I found was that the distance from the pivot block holes at the top to the holes in the uprights are very critical. I ended up having to cut my pivot blocks off and re-position them. The distance between the hole affects the angle that the tube will set in the bender before bending. I wanted the tube close to level, but it was 15 or 20 degrees off from level before I re-positioned the pivot blocks. Seems like .010" change makes about 1 degree difference.....or something like that.

Good Luck,
NIB


This is why frank and I, thought it would be best to wait until I had my die before welding the tabs solid. If the following block is to high it will pinch the tube (bad). If it is to low it effects your bend angle, but with a digital angle finder you can reference the bend to the unbent angle (everything in bending is referenced). If your holes are angled from one uprite to the other (if your die does not sit square), it will cause your tube to twist or coil. I also talked to dean at protools and he said the dies have 0.050" of play in them also.

NIB-98TJ,

I should have my die next week and be able to finish the bender. To set your pivot block hole, did you just mount it where the tube (for bending) was at a 90* angle to the uprites (prior to bending)?

If it is to low it effects your bend angle, but with a digital angle finder you can reference the bend to the unbent angle (everything in bending is referenced).

That's true to a point. If the angle is too low, you can't get a 20' piece of tube in it because the end of it will hit the floor. Ditto on the digital angle finder. I use one and it works GREAT.



I should have my die next week and be able to finish the bender. To set your pivot block hole, did you just mount it where the tube (for bending) was at a 90* angle to the uprites (prior to bending)?

That's pretty much what I did. I move the pivot blocks and tacked them on and stuck a piece of tube in to see the angle. I think it took me about 2 tries to get it near level.

Good Luck,
NIB

Well I didn't do the plans that most of y'all are doing but here's my home made bender. It's not 100% finished but seems to work pretty well. The bender arms and die are JD2. No jack base adapter, and the ram bolt goes directly into the bender arm (no bracket). I still lack a gusset or 2, capping all the tubes off, a wd40 can holder, and expanded metal in between the base legs. The ammo can holds my POB bracket and angle finder.

I welded longer studs to the casters and welded coupling nuts inside the base legs so the casters could adjust the height instead of separate adjusters.

Anyone have any way to get ahold of Frank other than email? Bought the plans and would like to get started. Or maybe someone could send me the materials list so I can get that together. Thanks!

I emailed him the other day and left my phone number, he called me back about 2 hours later. The list of materials will be in the plans. You may need to email and ask him to send the plans asap.

I used a 20' (2-10' sticks work great) stick of 2x2x1/4". I also used 5' of 1/2"x3" plate.

Funny. Just read the reply, checked my email and there it was!

I started on mine. Picked up the ram with a 20% off coupon and got the metal yesterday. Rough cut the frame and gave a shot at drilling the holes out. I wasnt too impressed with my attempts at accuracy with the drill press so I ended up dropping parts off with a buddy who happens to own a mill to punch my holes out for me. Also ordered up a die.

Cheapest die I could find was here:

http://www.crawltech.com/tools-107/tube-benders-108/pro-tools-mb105-1-3-4-tube-tubing-bender-die-6-radius-305.html

Still need to order in the shafts and stuff and make the bushings. Hope to have it rounded up sometime nexxt week.

I'll post some pics when I get it further along.

newest addition
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/101_0047.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/101_0097.jpg

I started on mine. Picked up the ram with a 20% off coupon and got the metal yesterday. Rough cut the frame and gave a shot at drilling the holes out. I wasnt too impressed with my attempts at accuracy with the drill press so I ended up dropping parts off with a buddy who happens to own a mill to punch my holes out for me. Also ordered up a die.

Cheapest die I could find was here:

http://www.crawltech.com/tools-107/tube-benders-108/pro-tools-mb105-1-3-4-tube-tubing-bender-die-6-radius-305.html

Still need to order in the shafts and stuff and make the bushings. Hope to have it rounded up sometime nexxt week.

I'll post some pics when I get it further along.

That is a good deal on that die, I just paid $302 shipped

Edit: that price is probably for the 120º die, I got the 240º

That is a good deal on that die, I just paid $302 shipped

Edit: that price is probably for the 120º die, I got the 240º

That has to be the 120*, the shipping weight is to low to be a 240*. My 240* that I just ordered is 55# and cost $330 shipped to CA.

That has to be the 120*, the shipping weight is to low to be a 240*. My 240* that I just ordered is 80# and cost $330 shipped to CA.

Yeah I was deceived by the picture at first but the description says its available in either 120 or 240

Yeah I was deceived by the picture at first but the description says its available in either 120 or 240

Yeah I stated that I wanted the 240 die in my order. There was no way to select one or the other. I might give them a call today and make sure its right.

I also started drilling the holes on the frame with a good drill press and couldnt really get good accuracy. Might have been the bit or the press but I ended up dropping the metal off at a buddies house who happens to have a mill to punch the holes out.

Got some more done today on this project. Got to go work for a few days so it will sit like this for a bit.

Highlift jack handle worked perfectly to check the alignment! :D

Got some more done today on this project. Got to go work for a few days so it will sit like this for a bit.

Highlift jack handle worked perfectly to check the alignment! :D

Did you end up getting the 240* die? I got my die yesterday, and I will be able to finish my bender up tomorrow, I think.

Ordered the plans this AM! Wish me luck...:eek:

Looks Good. The location of those two tabs is critical. Get them a little too high or too low and the tube will not be level with the floor. I suggest you tack weld them and then stick some tube in to see if you have them located correctly. I welded the shit out of mine and then had to move them a little. :homer:

NIB

I'm in the same boat. My tube is angled upwards when its in the bender, and the die actually rubs the follower a little bit. I noticed the tube is getting a bit necked at the bend as well. I wish I would've tacked the tabs and checked this first.

Did you end up getting the 240* die? I got my die yesterday, and I will be able to finish my bender up tomorrow, I think.

Nothings showed up yet. I specified the 240 die so I'm waiting to see what happens.

I wish I would've tacked the tabs and checked this first.

Yep. I had welded the piss out of mine also. Luckily we are dealing with some pretty thick steel that doesn't have to look perfect when we get done. I cut mine back off mostly with a 4-1/2 cutting wheel I believe. It was not as bad as I thought it was going to be when I first noticed it and let out a string of GD's, SOB's and MF's that could be heard down to the end of my block. :shaking:

I finished the fab work on my bender this weekend! it works pretty good as far as I can tell (I took a video of my first bend). I have never used a bender before, but It seems pretty simple.

A few things that was not clear to me during the build, and may help others:

Having your die in hand is very important for setting the pivot point block. I tack welded and moved the tabs 3 times, before I got my tube to sit level / square. I set the tube where it was about 1.5* below level.

You only need to buy 2 pins the 1- 1" and 1- 7/8", I thought I needed 2 - 7/8" pins, but one pin comes with the protools die.

The holes that you drill in the uprites, goes towards the front of the bender. Make sure when you layout the holes you put the welded tube seems to the rear and the holes towards the front.

I set my pivot point for the bottom of the ram in the center of the 45* braces. The side of the ram was still a little to close. I had to grind less than 0.060" to get the clearance.

The material to use for the bushings is not really specified. I used some thick 2" o.d. D.O.M. tube and cut the i.d. to 1" and then I turned the o.d. ends down to 1.388", on my lathe. The 1.375" hole saw I used to drill the pivot block, made the holes a little bit larger than 1.375". If you can not cut your own bushing this may be a problem,( if you have to use a hole saw and drill press like I did).

The total price for this bender including the 240* protools 105 die, was a little over $500 and a couple days of work. $100 steel, $270 die, $25 pins, $63 air / hydro ram, and another $50 or so in shipping for the die and pins.

YouTube - homemade bender_0001.wmv (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWjHXv_bnNo)

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/3456/p5010069.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8171/p5010070.jpg

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/7485/p5010072t.jpg

Yep. I had welded the piss out of mine also. Luckily we are dealing with some pretty thick steel that doesn't have to look perfect when we get done. I cut mine back off mostly with a 4-1/2 cutting wheel I believe. It was not as bad as I thought it was going to be when I first noticed it and let out a string of GD's, SOB's and MF's that could be heard down to the end of my block. :shaking:
:laughing:

I got it fixed on Saturday. It wasn't that bad. I cut the tabs off with a 4.5 cutting wheel as well. I ended up raising them about 1/16" to get the tube to sit level. I have not bent another tube with it yet, but I'm hoping to see less necking in the bend with this new tab location.

Got my bender finished up yesterday. I'm real happy with how it turned out.


525405

Finished mine up tonight, thought I'd go with pneumatic tires to move it around with. Went with 1/4" wall square tube and 5/8" plates for the puller.
1.5" .095 tube

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndrsmll8.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndrsmll11.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndrsmll13.jpg

All done and painted
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndrsmll16.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndr18.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndrsmll19.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h142/zuhlsdorf/bndrsmll18.jpg

Just ordered the plans (about 30 minutes ago) - can anyone send me the materials list from the plan - not a modified version of what you used. I'd like to start sourcing some of this stuff so I can figure my total cost.. I'll even send you the paypal receipt if you want proof that I'm not looking for a freebie.

ttt

Has anyone tried to be overly ambitious and make something like the Baileigh RDB-250?

Im going to be using my bender on a daily basis but over here in the Uk benders like the baileigh are mega bucks!

Cheers
Rich

I had started building my bender a couple years ago, but never got the time or need to finish it. It's about 95% finished, and includes the few pieces that still need to be welded. So, I am selling it plus four new die sets. 1-3/4 x 6 - 240, 1-1/2 x 5 - 240, 1-1/4 x 4 - 240, 1 x 3-1/2 - 240. I can email pictures to anyone who may be interested.

What brand dies??

Okay 2 questions, first I have read about the problems with the pivot blocks not being in the correct location. I put a piece of 1 1/2" pipe in (1 3/4" die, pipe OD is 1 3/4", not going to bend it just don't have any tubing yet) and used 2 short pipe stands to level it with the frame while it sat in the following block, then I sat the die on top of the pipe to find the location for tacking my pivot blocks. They are tacked now, should I try to bend a piece before proceeding or does my method sound close.

Second, I read somewhere that someone replaced the air valve with one that has a larger bore to speed it up, anyone done this? If so what valve seemed to work well?

:d

I had started building my bender a couple years ago, but never got the time or need to finish it. It's about 95% finished, and includes the few pieces that still need to be welded. So, I am selling it plus four new die sets. 1-3/4 x 6 - 240, 1-1/2 x 5 - 240, 1-1/4 x 4 - 240, 1 x 3-1/2 - 240. I can email pictures to anyone who may be interested.

How much you want for all the dies. Send picture to problem_ child_6666@hotmail.com of every you got thanks

How much you want for all the dies. Send picture to problem_ child_6666@hotmail.com of every you got thanks

Your email address gets bounced back to me.

Ed,

Sent you a PM!

Thx John!

Does anybody possess the salesperson's of the bender contact? Am I wanting to set up one for me but don't I get to contact?


Could anybody send me for e-mail the file in cad of the bender?

fabricio@kafercustoms.com.br


Tanks

Does anyone want to make me the bushing for plan B?

so i sent him the money and its been well over 24hours... anyone know if this is normal?

so i sent him the money and its been well over 24hours... anyone know if this is normal?

He sent mine about 2 hours after I ordered it. Maybe he is out of town or something. Drop him an email.

NIB

Does anybody possess the salesperson's of the bender contact? Am I wanting to set up one for me but don't I get to contact?


Could anybody send me for e-mail the file in cad of the bender?

fabricio@kafercustoms.com.br


Tanks

Frank Takacs email: eurofrank@aol.com

http://www.gottrikes.com/
$17.99 for the plans.
You can order from the website.

got mine! prettty cool, ill have to build it someday.

Finally read thru all of it, who is making Plan A or Plan B? Im not seeing much of a differenece except whether i have a bridgeport to drill properly or just a drill press? Maybe its just 2am and im reading it wrong!

EDIT... so after re-reading it, the Plan A uses No bushing aka only use 1 die size and Plan B is so you can use many different die sizes by easily re-moving them?

Project stalled?
Looking for a jack,.. Jack?

http://images.harborfreight.com/hftusa/itc/7701/images/69.jpg

I tear the Inside Track Club coupons so the ITC is removed, haven't had it questioned, but your milage may vary.

I also usually use a 20% on something as well as the 4 free items so the fact it's an ITC coupon doesn't register:
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?sduid=162775&t=1276399

Anyone using just huge grade 8 bolts instead of the pins over time? How are they holding up?

Anyone using just huge grade 8 bolts instead of the pins over time? How are they holding up?

I think I only have one hardened pin; its the one that the follower rides on. The rest are grade 8 bolts and they have woked just fine.

NIB

I tried Gr8 bolts on mine and they bent while bending 2" .120 DOM.

I tried Gr8 bolts on mine and they bent while bending 2" .120 DOM.

The worst I have bent on mine is 1.75" .120" HREW. No problem with that.

I am having trouble with my ram returning all the way?
Looking at everything I see no binding or interferences, it will go eventually but is a lot of force to get it down all the way.
Anyone else experience this?

How much are you opening the ram bleed valve?

Enough that it worries me it will fall out?

I only have to turn mine about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to close it easily.

If you remove the ram from the bender, is it still hard to bottom out the ram?

Doesn't seem to be?

Sounds like something is binding up somewhere.

Finally finished my bender, couple pics to whore.

A few things I did different than the plan are: I used some 2 1/2" square receiver tubing as the ram pivot, used a leaf spring bushing out of an international harvester for the swing arm pivot and frame pivots added a grease nipple just for fun too.

Not much flattening of the tube in the first bend.

Very satisfied with my bender.

http://i54.tinypic.com/2jb3981.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/14vh98j.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/149mdf.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/6yej5x.jpg

What would i have to do to make the got trikes bender do 2in 250 wall i have the plans but i want it to do 250 wall max ? What is the max that you people that have built this bender done ?

1)The arms call for 3 x 1/2. I've got some 4 x 1/2 will that work ok?
2)I read that Mike Green has the best prices on dies. What's his contact info?

1)The arms call for 3 x 1/2. I've got some 4 x 1/2 will that work ok?
2)I read that Mike Green has the best prices on dies. What's his contact info?

Yes, you can make that work.

Haven't heard from Frank about the plans. I have emailed him but with no response. I'm looking for the plans if someone could share those with me. I can verify first that I PayPal him the funds so I am not stealing from him. Would anyone help me or get a hold of him and see whats up or share the plans or cutlist? I'm sure some of you are acquainted with him.

Thanks guys... I'm just chomping at the bit to get some pieces cut for the build..

EDIT: Got Franks number and all is good.... Thanks

Pls PM me Frank's phone number. Thx

**edited**

I got an email from Frank along with the plans. The plans look absolutely great and cannot wait to build one.

just payed tha man can't wait been wanting/needing this long time...:flipoff2:

24 hrs no pdf yet??

newest addition
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/101_0047.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/bmxenbrett/101_0097.jpg

Where did you get the knob for the hydraulic relief valve?

I use a short 12 ton ram for my dimple die press and this would be sexier than a pair of visescrips I currently use.

Troy

Has anybody hard mounted a degree indicator to the got trikes bender?

Where did you get the knob for the hydraulic relief valve?

Troy

x2 :eek:

I pmed dopeassjackson a few weeks ago about the aluminum knob.
This was his reply.....

"I made it from a round piece of aluminum"

This sounds like something "Swag off road" needs to make....:D Id buy one. Just sayin

I pmed dopeassjackson a few weeks ago about the aluminum knob.
This was his reply.....

"I made it from a round piece of aluminum"

This sounds like something "Swag off road" needs to make....:D Id buy one. Just sayin


Dam.....I was hoping I could buy it for once.

I'm on it give me a couple 3 weeks :smokin:

Troy

gottrike sell a nice knob!

can someone please tell me how much material I need ? I would like to price it thru my source and decide if I am going to buy plans and build it or not ?
how much 2x2 .250
how much cold roll flat bar and what size
thanks anthony

a little over 18' of 2x2 and 2 pice 3x1/2x18" 1 pice 3x1/2x3"

ToolSmithDirect.com THEY HAVE THE SAME HYD. JACK TO YOUR DOOR UNDER 70.00

a little over 18' of 2x2 and 2 pice 3x1/2x18" 1 pice 3x1/2x3"

ok thanks

toolsmithdirect.com they have the same hyd. Jack to your door under 70.00

ok i timed the ram to full ex. At 100psi.-88sec.
Removed valve comptly 87sec
removed hose x swival 87sec
removed top of air cyl. And drilled out
air entry hole 62sec
replacted hose vale and swival 62sec

this was all no load the restricion is in the air pump not the valve i did open up the holes in the valve and swival with no resoltes.

ok i timed the ram to full ex. At 100psi.-88sec.
Removed valve comptly 87sec
removed hose x swival 87sec
removed top of air cyl. And drilled out
air entry hole 62sec
replacted hose vale and swival 62sec

this was all no load the restricion is in the air pump not the valve i did open up the holes in the valve and swival with no resoltes.

:grinpimp:

Nice mod, It does not get any better that free.

Troy

Thanks on the bender its bad ass bends 1/2" like butter
'

100% bolt, on stay tuned............:smokin:

that knob is awesome!....... id toss 5 buks for one!...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=582683&stc=1&d=1299795783

Harbor Freight air/hydralic 8 ton ram - $60 again

http://images.harborfreight.com/hftusa/itc/7761/images/102.jpg

Yes, it says inside track at the top. I've had these work where I used other coupons and didn't cut these above the inside track. Some stores won't take them though.

that knob is awesome!....... id toss 5 buks for one!...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=582683&stc=1&d=1299795783
Exactly!
Any word on those?

How much for the knob? I would buy a couple for the press, bender and engine puller.

How much for the knob? I would buy a couple for the press, bender and engine puller.Mcmaster? (http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-knobs/=bmcu04)

How much for the knob? I would buy a couple for the press, bender and engine puller.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#3992t25/=bmdq0v

Enjoy!

could you not use some old hydrolic cylinder shaftI looked at the steel shafts needed for this project and
1 youi need a 1: x 7.5 Thompson shaft
3 you need a 5/8" x 10.5" shaft

mc master want close to $20 bucks each!! wtf
any body got a line on some better prices on some hardend pins for this thing??

man this suker is starting to add up on the $$ still likeit better than the J2 but the list is getting expensive!!

Ok so its Monday and I called my local steel places to get some quotes for the steel involved

as the bill of material states
FRAME
20ft of 2" x 2" x 1/4" tube (20)FT = $70
iDLER ARMS
2.5 X 5/8" mETAL EXPRESS = $46
(OR A STICK OF 20FT LOCALLY) = $55

MISC DRILL BITS = $30
HARDENDED PINS 7/8" AND 1" (MCMASTERCARR) = 25
8 ton ram at Harbor frieght = $60

got trikes plans =$20
--------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL WITHOUT LABOR = $260

You could use some old hydrolic shaft

as the bill of material states
FRAME
20ft of 2" x 2" x 1/4" tube (20)FT = $70
iDLER ARMS
2.5 X 5/8" mETAL EXPRESS = $46
(OR A STICK OF 20FT LOCALLY) = $55

MISC DRILL BITS = $30
HARDENDED PINS 7/8" AND 1" (MCMASTERCARR) = 25
8 ton ram at Harbor frieght = $60

got trikes plans =$20
--------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL WITHOUT LABOR = $260
You need to find a better supplier. I only pay $25 for the 2 x 2 x .250 wall
and about $26 for the 5/8" bar.

Does anyone know if he is still selling the plans for that bender? I emailed him with no response. I'm not just gonna blindly send the money.

*He emailed me about 20mins after posting this, he still sells them through the site.

Has anyone modded or added onto their bender from Frank Takacs to bend horizontally as well? Depending on what I am doing and where I am working(when theres a low roof), it sometimes would be a lot easier to be bending horizontally.

I can make any or all of the parts anyone needs for these benders. I actually have 2 complete benders I made and have made spare parts such as bushings and knobs.

I can make any or all of the parts anyone needs for these benders. I actually have 2 complete benders I made and have made spare parts such as bushings and knobs.

You can't sell anything here without a vender star.

I can make any or all of the parts anyone needs for these benders. I actually have 2 complete benders I made and have made spare parts such as bushings and knobs.

Well since you can't sell anything here without a yellow star, I'll let you send one to me for free...

Has anybody modified the plans to be more like the probender? Just wondering what angle the ram needs to be mounted at to bend 90 degrees without repinning?

You can't sell anything here without a vender star.


OK, wasn't looking at opening up shop here but will check out the yellow star deal. Thanks!


Where do I look into the yellow star????? I saw it the other day but can't locate it now!

OK, wasn't looking at opening up shop here but will check out the yellow star deal. Thanks!


Where do I look into the yellow star????? I saw it the other day but can't locate it now!

Go to your USER CP( top left of screen). It is under paid subscriptions on the bottom left hand side.

$240 year.

I have read through most of this thread and I think I have confused myself of the material used. What size flat bar is used? And how much? I want to price it before I commit to buying the plans. I know it takes 20' of 2"x2"x 1/4"
Is it 3"x 1/2" or 3 1/2"x 5/8"?? or is both needed? Thanks

I have read through most of this thread and I think I have confused myself of the material used. What size flat bar is used? And how much? I want to price it before I commit to buying the plans. I know it takes 20' of 2"x2"x 1/4"
Is it 3"x 1/2" or 3 1/2"x 5/8"?? or is both needed? Thanks

Just buy the plans it's so worth the $18.00

Just buy the plans it's so worth the $18.00

I know the plans are worth the $18.00. I was not trying to build it without the plans. I just wanted to know how much I would be spending on the materials. Thats why I asked what I asked. Thanks

I know the plans are worth the $18.00. I was not trying to build it without the plans. I just wanted to know how much I would be spending on the materials. Thats why I asked what I asked. Thanks


Not counting the cylinder and die, the materials are going to cost you in the $225-$250 + price range. Steel has gone up considerably since this thread was started a few years ago and goes up more every day.

So I've got a question regarding tube getting stuck in the bender after a bend -

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/th_IMG_20110521_121736.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/IMG_20110521_121736.jpg)

It doesn't matter what angle we bend, after we get the desired angle I've got to beat the fuck out of the top of the swing arm (where the cylinder attaches) to get everything back to where I can pull the pin on the tube holder off the front.

Everything works perfect besides that - we had some burring going on from the bottom block, but we touched that up a little bit and every bend it gets easier and easier to slide the tube in and out, but the biggest problem of them all is getting the tube out.

What adjustments can we make - did something get tweaked?

We were VERY careful when we put this thing together -
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0039.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0039.jpg)http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0054.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0054.jpg)http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0010.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0010.jpg)http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/th_DSCI0011.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/Tube%20Bender/DSCI0011.jpg)

To all of you out there who use a bender with one of the harbor freight, 8 ton, long arm rams - how much air do you need to use it? I don't have a compressor yet, and am tight on space - I'm wondering what the smallest size is which will run the bender. Also, what size compressor do you need to run a small plasma, or light use of air tools? Sorry to hijack, but it's kind of related - just need to find out which pieces to buy, so that my bender will work, and possibly have a compressor which works for other things as well. Thanks,

Spruce

To all of you out there who use a bender with one of the harbor freight, 8 ton, long arm rams - how much air do you need to use it? I don't have a compressor yet, and am tight on space - I'm wondering what the smallest size is which will run the bender. Also, what size compressor do you need to run a small plasma, or light use of air tools? Sorry to hijack, but it's kind of related - just need to find out which pieces to buy, so that my bender will work, and possibly have a compressor which works for other things as well. Thanks,

Spruce

what size plasma and how much are you bending? You could probably make due with a pancake compressor if you're patient

Also, what size compressor do you need to run a small plasma, or light use of air tools? Sorry to highjack.....

Then start another thread or better yet, try searching. That subject has been beat to death. :homer:

NIB

To all of you out there who use a bender with one of the harbor freight, 8 ton, long arm rams - how much air do you need to use it? I don't have a compressor yet, and am tight on space - I'm wondering what the smallest size is which will run the bender. Also, what size compressor do you need to run a small plasma, or light use of air tools? Sorry to hijack, but it's kind of related - just need to find out which pieces to buy, so that my bender will work, and possibly have a compressor which works for other things as well. Thanks,

Spruce

Your going to need at least 90 psi for that jack to work right.

The HF manual says:

Specifications
Lifting Capacity 8 Tons (16,000 Pounds)
Required Air Pressure 110 ~ 120
PSIAir Flow Required
7 CFM
Air Inlet Size 1/4” – 18 NPT
Minimum Height 24-1/4”
Maximum Height 42-7/8”

I think I have my regulator set at about 100, but I have used it on 90. It just runs a little slower.

NIB

I got the plans and lost my dam password to cd.......

I got the plans and lost my dam password to cd.......

Drop Frank an email and he will send you the password.

http://www.gottrikes.com/

NIB

I emailed a while back but no answer yet

Sometimes he is out of town for a few days, but he has always eventually responded to my emails.

Not that this helps you now, but when I get a CD like that, I write the password on the CD with a sharpie. There are just too damn many passwords to keep up with nowdays.

Good Luck,
NIB

I have enough 2 x 2 x 1/8 , do you think it will be strong enough to build this??

I would be a little cautious about using 1/8 wall for this.. Might not be quite strong enough to handle some of the bends you might put it through.


Also, since this seems a fitting thread...
Just released this free app onto android market and wanted to share with everyone.

BendCalc Lite
https://market.android.com/details?id=net.isharellc.bendcalclite

BendCalc Lite is a tube bending calculator, accurate
to a thousandth of an inch. BendCalc Lite is a small
application used for calculating bends in tubing. It
was written to provide a way to determine the
measurements required when bending any size pipe
or tube, so that your bends come out in exactly the
right spot.
The app contains no fluff. It does exactly what it is
supposed to do, with a precision of 1/1000th of an inch.

I would be a little cautious about using 1/8 wall for this.. Might not be quite strong enough to handle some of the bends you might put it through.


Also, since this seems a fitting thread...
Just released this free app onto android market and wanted to share with everyone.

BendCalc Lite
https://market.android.com/details?id=net.isharellc.bendcalclite

BendCalc Lite is a tube bending calculator, accurate
to a thousandth of an inch. BendCalc Lite is a small
application used for calculating bends in tubing. It
was written to provide a way to determine the
measurements required when bending any size pipe
or tube, so that your bends come out in exactly the
right spot.
The app contains no fluff. It does exactly what it is
supposed to do, with a precision of 1/1000th of an inch.


OK, I know that since this is your only post it is considered SPAM, with that said I downloaded this on the phone and well it works I guess, however I never have been one for using computer programs to do do my bending. I will let others chime in and see if they like it. Oh yeah thanks for making it free. I would like to see it text boxes to be filled in shown as a picture diagram.

Best of luck to you now when you launch the Bend Calc Pro and charge $ for it then it is time to pony up and get yellow star.

Troy

Yes, it is my only post.. I have been a lurker for a couple years. I am a man of few words unless they are worth saying. Thanks for the download. Some people shoot from the hip or use some other means of figuring out their bends, but I am a math geek, so I like to do it this way.

PS. I feel a little guilty about getting labelled as SPAM, since I have spent the last 15 years of my career fighting the stuff. :D

That's a pretty handy little program. Thanks!

Thanks Joe, hope you like it.

Hey after reading this entire thread (maybe skipped a few pages) I ordered some plans yesterday. Still have'nt been emailed plans or a response to my email I sent to eurofrank. Any ideas? Have time today to buy all the parts but dont have the list needed...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#3992t25/=bmdq0v

Enjoy!

NOTE ABOUT KNOB FOR HF RAM: Just for those that weren't sure how this knob would work since it has a 1/4-20 tapped hole, according to Swag, you have to drill it out to 3/8" and then drill a 5/32" cross hole for the pin. Tap the pin out of the HF piece, slide drilled out knob over HF piece and tap pin back in. After finding this out, I stopped by my buddies (who has a lathe) and turned out a knob from a piece of aluminum I had. As it turned out though, the 3/8 center hole got oversized some how...or the HF piece is a touch undersized. In any case, I recommend drilling out the knob smaller and trying. If needed, redrill larger. I had to make a spacer from a piece of sheet metal which I wrapped around the HF pin. Then I tapped the knob onto the HF pin. I also think the 5/32 cross hole was a touch large, but since I had to tap the knob I made onto the HF piece, it worked out just fine. Jeff

Here's a pic or two of the knob I made. Jeff

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/fourliter/JD2%20model%2032%20air%20over%20hydro%20conversion/P1040553.jpg

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z94/fourliter/JD2%20model%2032%20air%20over%20hydro%20conversion/P1040554.jpg

I sent the money to frank 4 days ago, and have not got a response yet. Does anyone know if he's out of town. It says on his website 24 hrs to get plans.

Who is still fighting getting the strap off when you are done bending?

Yes, I have searched, and yes I have tried all the things the search came up with and none of them work.

I am using the pro tools die, 1.75", 7" radius, came with the strap and die already drilled.

Tacked up the pivot blocks with tube in the dies and level.

Tried putting tension on tube clamp bolt, tried without, tried raising end of tube not being bent, tried tapping clamp.

Thanks for any help.

I used to have problems, but we figured it out. It has something to do with the longer side of the tubing that had not been bent - if you lift on it or push it down (it's beena long time) it will pop loose and come out. The third person i borrowed ours to figured it out. :mad3:

can someone pm me his email or phone number?
my computer wants to use the apple mail and it fucks my hard drive royally. :shaking:


thanks

hi
sory for my English
I'm from europe
I have plans to pipe bender 1.25 "
and I would like to do pipe bender on 2"
mostly I mean the diameter of the wheel
Hope that someone understood what I wrote

Ok so my set up is not totally home made. Spare time for me is real slim so I took the easy route. Started with the pro tools 105hd, ordered the air/hydrolic ram bracket, and bought the hf 8 ton cylinder. Since I don't have alot of room in the garage I figured why not mount it in my engine stand. So I put 4 angles with tapped holes for leveling bolts and made a mount to slide into the stand. Seams to work great and now I have another use for my stand that was taking up room. I plan on making another bracket to mount the bender vertically so I can bend that way if I want to.
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq237/66fordtruck/2012-02-27_13-13-05_516.jpg
http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq237/66fordtruck/2012-02-27_13-12-51_174.jpg

Also plan on mounting my notcher on the back side of the stand. Will update when I get it on there.

I did kind of the same as above but went electric/hydro.

http://img.tapatalk.com/625d56a6-d0b5-d3ff.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/625d56a6-d0d3-bd5a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/625d56a6-d0e6-36d6.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/625d56a6-d0f7-2e2a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/625d56a6-d10b-7569.jpg

Added a pull back handle the other night.
http://img.tapatalk.com/625d56a6-d150-e6ac.jpg

Here's some video, it's fast an quiet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C2psP55KYw&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The ram and pump are from a tommy gate. Bender is a JD2 model 3

Anyone seen this one before? Someone posted it on another forum but didn't know who built it.


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4416/dsc00048yfhijc.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/dsc00048yfhijc.jpg/)

JUST TO LET EVERYONE KNOW WHO IS BUILDING A BENDER WITH HF 8 TON AIR RAM , THROUGH THE INSIDE TRACK CLUB I GOT THE RAM FOR $55 TODAY SO THERE IS SOME SAVINGS TO PASS AROUND!!:flipoff2:

pdxblazer, I can't see from the picture on how you mounted it to the tube very well. Would you be able to rotate the bender and ram so that the ram parallales the mounting tube. Then you would be able to twist the whole assembly to bend horizontal or vertical. Just a thought. Cool idea.

The winch bender is bad ass.

pdxblazer, I can't see from the picture on how you mounted it to the tube very well. Would you be able to rotate the bender and ram so that the ram parallales the mounting tube. Then you would be able to twist the whole assembly to bend horizontal or vertical. Just a thought. Cool idea.The follower/holder is fixed to the tube in the receiver. I doubt it rotates.

Pull it out, and hang it on a wall. Hell of a space saver though,..

I thought it might rotate just like the engine stand would. Thanks.

Here's my home made JD2 bender mounted on a free HF engine stand.

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3734/img0851fv.jpg

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7366/img0850ao.jpg



V

holy dimples bat man... how did you do all those holes? or are they dimples. looks cool as hell

holy dimples bat man... how did you do all those holes? or are they dimples. looks cool as hell

Thanks NSF, I drilled a 7/8" through hole every 2"s in 2" square tubing, then dimpled it with a 1 1/4" ball hitch and dimple/punch I fabricated.

Dimple and punch.
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/3623/img0776xu.jpg

All in the press.
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/747/img0798k.jpg

Here's what you get.
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2531/img0773xn.jpg

Not to hijack the thread, here's my bender in the vertical bent postion.
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/78/img0854h.jpg



V

Thanks NSF, I drilled a 7/8" through hole every 2"s in 2" square tubing, then dimpled it with a 1 1/4" ball hitch and dimple/punch I fabricated.
V

Pretty God Damn innovated. What are to specs for the hydro pump or where can I get one?

Pretty God Damn innovated. What are to specs for the hydro pump or where can I get one?


I got the hydraulic unit from a press that was being scrapped out at work. There is no part number as a whole unit on it but the pump, motor, and valve all have numbers.

The pump and valve are OTC and and the motor is a GE 1/2 hp.

To be honest it's real slow. I haven't pulled the pump yet to see if I can speed it up a bit, but it was free.


V

Think I'll have to add this project to the list.

I got the hydraulic unit from a press that was being scrapped out at work. There is no part number as a whole unit on it but the pump, motor, and valve all have numbers.

The pump and valve are OTC and and the motor is a GE 1/2 hp.

To be honest it's real slow. I haven't pulled the pump yet to see if I can speed it up a bit, but it was free.


V

Thanks, yeah I'm wanting to convert mine over. It's a got trikes bender. They have a mini hydro power log splitter, 110v, at the local Tractor supply Ive had my eyes on for parts. It's 299, cheapest I've found yet and it comes with a ram. I bet its slow though, I'll have to look into it further. The guy that used tommy lift gate parts is plenty fast and power full, but its 12v stuff. I'd rather use 110v or 220v stuff although Ive noticed the 12v hydro stuff is often cheaper.

Jd2 model 3 hydro conversion 2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C2psP55KYw&feature=youtube_gdata_player)

Ordered my plans today. Can't wait to get them.

Who have tried implementing a Double Acting Pneumatic Cylinder? , no one yet?

You could use air but it would have to be a really big diameter cylinder, or one hell of a compressor, to get enough force.

It takes around 5000-10000 lbs of force to make these benders work, depending on tube diameter and wall thickness. You would need an 11" diameter air cylinder using an air compressor at 100psi to hit the higher end of that range. Air systems don't throttle very easily either so making precise bends would be very difficult.

The air over hydro rams used in this conversion are rated at 16000 lbs. They may be loud and slow but they're cheap and easy to use.

exceptional info start at post 6
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=39010


and a picture of a balanced cylinder and triple row chain for converting linear to rotary motion
http://www.unitplus.cz/image/xot/xot3.jpg