question is, in a full size 71 k5 blazer with 38's. Before anyone says get a 60 there is no room in the budget for a 60 just bought a new duramax crew cab 4x4, so i dont have the money for a 60. Will putting 4340's in a d44 be worth the money? Or just save up and wait a long while for a 60. Im tired of replace short side u joints and axles. What do u think

They will help but still won't be as strong as the 60.
Just watch your wheeling and watch the skinny pedal if you have a tire turned and bound up.
Back up and take a new line.
I drove a 44 3/4 ton and had the same problems. got tired of changing axles all the time.

it does great except when i gte into any kind of rocks im going to try chrome molys and hope for the best

Mine was the same way. When I had the turbo 350 in it I did not break to many of them. After I did the stick swap to the SM465 I broke them all the time. You would be suprised how much shock the torque converter takes from the drive train. The manual does not, so everything takes major abuse on the rocks.

i dont do rocks much mostly trail and mud so hopefully the chrome molys will hold up and i think ill go down to 37's that should help alot hate to lose the ground clearence

35s can break them pretty easy
put the cash towards your 60 fund

I hate a lack of specifics. I need specific info in order to understand what is being compared, exactly. I apologize in advance.

They will help but still won't be as strong as the 60...
Obvious.
...I drove a 44 3/4 ton and had the same problems. got tired of changing axles all the time.
1. Was that breakage with chromoly axles?
2. If so, which brand/model/metallurgy (4340/4310, etc)?
3. If not, whick axles (stock '71 or 72 GM D44 with 267 u-joints or stock 73up GM D44 with 297 u-joints? 1010 metal?

JackedupJ, is your D44 locked up? If so, which locker? I'd like to know since having a selectable locker could ease some stress situations and some other lockers are still not as hard on components as a spool or welded diff. IOW, I think which locker you're running affects any rationale regarding trying 4340 axles in the D44.

Thanks, everyone. I want to selectable lock up and chromoly axle my '71 3/4 ton burb's front D44 because it will be a tough tow vehicle on 35s that doesn't need a D60 for strength. I also prefer a D44's lighter weight for better handling than a heavier D60.

the specifics are listewd in my signature 71 model 44, stock axles, loc rite. Cant afford a 60 for a long while just bought new duramax 4x4 crew cab no funds for 60

if you are towing the tiny GM 44 brakes are a great reason to upgrade to a d60.
bling axles with small wheel joints = wasted $$

a 60 here goes for $1000cdn, how much is a set of chromo shafts for a 44?

a selectable locker is going to be harder on shafts then a detroit

Whoops! Guess I coulda looked at your sig.:shaking: :laughing:

I'm not a member of the "Get a 60" police. :D I still wonder if Home Built's breakage was with chromoly axles. I know I'd chance buying 4340 axles with a ratcheting lockright and 38s or 37s. I'd prefer Superiors but probably buy Yukons to save some $$. I might think different if the axles were for a dedicated rockcrawler.

chances are the ujoint let go and took out the axles.
that will kill bling axles just as quick as stock ones.

I bought a Bronco a few weeks ago with detroits and a broken ujoint
did a bit of frontend work, balljoints/replace ruined shafts/new spicer ujoints/etc
got to replace shafts and ujoint again the next day.
I didn't even do anything real brutal
my 1ton'd chev was laughing at me as I redid the d44

I need to be wealthy so I can get one of those bling lightweight 60 axles. :D

lightwieght is for rich guys that can afford exotic materials

My Breakage was on stock axles with spicer u-joints, 297X
I was running the bigger axles and joints since the half ton I could snap with ease.
while on the Rubicon last year I had to change 2 right axles, and I was not even doing anything fun.I was just going up the slaps outside spider lake.
Since my truck was tipping the scales at 6000 lbs and I was saving for a 60, I could not see the upgrade to 4340 as the thing to do for me.
I run a detroit in both ends. I think a selectable locker would help with the breakage since you can turn it on and off when you need to. but I like the simplicity of the detroit and how it's never failed me.

flamesuit on.... First, mine is a trail rig, not a hardcore rock crawler (obviously) with that said, I have had a set of 4340 yukons, and the yukon/jantz superjoints for over a year without problem. blazer on 42 tsl, 4.88s, 454/465/205 and a lockright in front. I've worn out a new set of balljoints in this time, but not broken an axle, just my $.02 and your results may vary..

I do have a 60 that I'll get arount to using someday.

edit: steering stops are your friend!

I think you pretty much need to factor in the cost of some high strength u-joints if you are getting chromo shafts, otherwise I don't think you are really gaining much in the overall strength........besides for the possibility of taking out the one or both of the shafts if the u-joint lets go. From my personal experience running a front 10-bolt with 35's and a limited slip in a fullsize I wiped out several u-joints but never broke a shaft (except for the u-joint breakage ruining them). Add up a complete set of new shafts and bling u-joints and you are getting pretty close to buying a 60.........plus you should be able to sell your existing Dana 44 for some extra cash.

My overall thoughts.............."if you can't afford a Dana 60, you can't afford upgraded shafts and u-joints for the 44"

flamesuit on.... First, mine is a trail rig, not a hardcore rock crawler (obviously) with that said, I have had a set of 4340 yukons, and the yukon/jantz superjoints for over a year without problem. blazer on 42 tsl, 4.88s, 454/465/205 and a lockright in front. I've worn out a new set of balljoints in this time, but not broken an axle, just my $.02 and your results may vary..

I do have a 60 that I'll get arount to using someday.

edit: steering stops are your friend!

did you weld the caps on jantz joints to the shafts? if so how? mig, tig
what kind of wheelin' are you doing?

...I drove a 44 3/4 ton and had the same problems. got tired of changing axles all the time.
My Breakage was on stock axles with spicer u-joints, 297X
...I run a detroit in both ends....
Thanks, HB. From your first statement, I couldn't tell if you were speaking of having broken 4340s or not.

think ill get some yukon shafts anf joints hopefully thall fix mt problem

if you are towing the tiny GM 44 brakes are a great reason to upgrade to a d60....
Tiny? I think the 3/4 ton rotors are big enough for the towing I'll do with my K20 burb. I don't think the 126" wheel base is long enough for serious towing anyway. Witha manual trans and Praise Dyno Brake upgrades I think I'll be able to tow my FJ40 on a trailer with 500lbs of camping gear. But that will be seldom done. I like to drive my Cruiser to the trail and back.;)
...I bought a Bronco a few weeks ago....
Dangit! Where's a good F@rd crack when I need one...:D

I just destroyed my '60 last weekend with 39.5s.

There are '60s on this board available for $800 or so. Well within the budget you've alotted for stronger D44 axles and joints.

Even a 30 spline outer D60 will take some abuse. Mine survived Tellico with 38.5s. The new 39.5s and beadlocks killed it the first trip, but I think it was stressed well ahead of time.

don't polish the turd. D44s are fine for super light weight rigs... but your truck isn't that. You need a 60. 4340 stuff and bling joints will cost you as much as a 60 will... not sure why you think you can afford one and not the other.

j

i can get 4340's and big joints for a lot less than buying a 60, re gearing and locking it

Yeah, and when you break all that shit, you're going to be out twice as much money as you would have been in the first place.

Just get a 60. Stop trying to polish a terd.

I think the 3/4 ton rotors are big enough for the towing

calipers are same tiny car sourced junk as 1/2 tons. you can never have too big a rotor.
I have no idea what Praise upgrades but I bet it is a waste of fawking money.
mass is about all you can do for improved braking.
something has to eat the heat.

Dangit! Where's a good F@rd crack when I need one

you got nuttin' cause Chev trucks got nothing on Ford's.
already got Ford rear leaves, already got coil front, already got hipinion front, already got lotsa splines on the 205 input/outputs, already got crossover steering

the list goes on

of course I broke a fresh steering joint and took out the short side axles on the d44 the first trip out.

It is an interesting decision rationale involved. In my case, the burb will likely only get locked up in mud or on snow, so I don't expect to stress componets. In fact, I'll have chains on before I hit mud in most cases, such as backcountry hunting trips, so I might save some money by leaving the front diff open.

Also, since this is primarily a snow country highway rig and medium tow rig (by light truck standards), I also would prefer the better ride a light D44 would give me over a heavy D60. I think I could at least go 4340 axles with a highway speed capable joints and, if I upgrade to a D60 later, still sell the upgraded D44 for not much of a loss. Obviously, I have lighter requirements for my burb than JackedupJimmy. Then again, if I go with a BBC.......