HF TIG welder

[jeeplvr]

Sue me if this is a repost.
Has anyone used this HF tig welder?
I have a promotional code that takes 100.00 off but you can only order it from the website via the online catalouge order form thingy.
Code# 91811-1mra
With the code it's 199.00

[wizard_Drd]

Here ya go

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325687

[ozarkjeep]

Ive used a very similar machine ( but a brand name), inverter welder, the one we had could be wired 110/220, and we used it on 110 for portability.

Ad a gas bottle and a cart, and we welded mild steel and stainless with it, from thin sheet metal to 0.250 and even thicker.

I was impressed, but it is scratch start , but that may or may not be a problem for you, depending on what you want to do with it. ( it wont weld aluminum)

If that machine would last a few years under home shop usage, I would buy one myself.

I would bet that if you dont overheat it, it woudl last a long time.

[hotcowboy76]

Hey that code doesnt work! :flipoff2: I say give it a try and if you dont like it within 30 days return it. HF pays for the shipping on the way back and I think for the shipping to you if the order is over $100 or something. I would think its worth it! If your not going to use the code or it can be used twice let me know!

[rusted]

If I had $200 I'd buy it just to learn how to TIG.

[NothernAZxj]

Here ya go

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325687

another worthless link...no info at all..thanks for nuthin :flipoff2:

[JJS]

i've been looking at the same one to get myself started on TIGing. let us know how that one works out for you.

[jeeplvr]

The code is actually the item number. I don't think I explained it right in the first post.
If you go to the HF site and click the "view cart" link at the top of the page. Of course there isn't anything in your cart yet but half way down that page is a link that says "order from printed catalog". Click this link and enter the item# 91811-1mra, and click the "add" button and 199.00 price will show up.

Edit: I guess I should say that my intention here is not to weld aluminum since I use a spool gun for that.
I want to use this tig welder to do light jobs like sheet metal and exhaust. I have access to a Lincoln tig/arc welder but it's huge and not very portable.
I know how to tig weld and scratch start isn't an issue for me.

I ordered the welder and will give a writeup when I get some time in on it.

[jeeplvr]

Got the HF tig/arc welder Friday and finally got aroud to testing it this afternoon. Arc is not bad with 7018 1/8". I am out of argon so I'll have to wait to tig until sometime this week.
Over all it looks and feels like a quality unit and with what i've done with it so far and the 199.00 price I feel prety damn good about the purchase.

[ozarkjeep]

sweet!

keep us updated, If it tigs well I want to order one also.

[rusted]

Got the HF tig/arc welder Friday and finally got aroud to testing it this afternoon. Arc is not bad with 7018 1/8". I am out of argon so I'll have to wait to tig until sometime this week.
Over all it looks and feels like a quality unit and with what i've done with it so far and the 199.00 price I feel prety damn good about the purchase.

:laughing: This is just like another board, where I heard the same thing, I think about 7018 too.

We want to know how the TIG is! :flipoff2:

I was thinking the same thing about that machine. Just MIG the Al stuff and use that for thin steel or cromo or exhaust etc.

*edit* not that I have anything that will ever be cromo, but I do have stainless and sheet metal to weld on someday. :laughing: I'm still at fixing the lawnmower stage tho.

[jeeplvr]

:laughing:
We want to know how the TIG is! :flipoff2:


Working on it.
Here's a couple of pictures of what it can do with 1/16" to 1/16" and 3-16" to 1/16"

Before you say they are ugly welds, consider I was using steel mix (25% CO2 and 75% Argon) and no filler rod.
I like this welder very much.

http://www.trailhed.com/images/mybuggy/new32005%20002.jpg
http://www.trailhed.com/images/mybuggy/new32005%20001.jpg

[braxton357]

another worthless link...no info at all..thanks for nuthin :flipoff2:


Yeah, I ended up buying a much larger AC/DC arc welder and adding a tig torch. :flipoff2:

It ended up being about the same price.

[jeeplvr]

I forgot to mention that this tig/arc welder has a current control switch. To weld the 1/16 steel I had to turn down the current control to the second to the lowest setting. To weld the 3/16 to the 1/16 steel the current setting was at half.
I think this welder would weld much thicker steel, perhaps 3/8.
Definitely good bang for the buck.

[hotcowboy76]

any update on the tig???

[jeeplvr]

I should get some better results tonight since I now have Argon and rod.
I will post some pics later.
Regardless, this welder is very much worth the 199.00 in my opinion.

[jeeplvr]

I really like the tig welder part of this welder. Other than the scratch start, it work as good as our high dollar Lincoln on steel.
Here are the latest pics. My tig skills are very rusty, and truthfully not that good to begin with, so go easy on me!
Latest pics (http://www.trailhed.com/tempstuff.html)

[ozarkjeep]

I was in the local HF store yesterday, they have that machine on sale for $200...

I might go back and get one!

[jeeplvr]

I was in the local HF store yesterday, they have that machine on sale for $200...

I might go back and get one!

I have tigged with it a little more and I love it. It works great for what I do.

[ESPEED]

This is the company in China (KENDE) that makes the 130 amp tig for HF KENDE p# TIG130s

http://www.chinakende.com/producten.asp?productsid=&page=2&smallname=&miaoshu=&lifang=#

due to this post here (good) and all the others (mostly negative) all over the Net I bought one just so I could try it. IT WORKS. Actually it works pretty good.

These are my observations so far.

DC only
There is no information on the box for specs
the instruction manual is poor
it does not come with a plug I used a 20A plug (230V)
MAX amp draw is 18A
it only works on 230V
the tig range is 5-130 amps
It worked better after I replaced the suppled tungsten with good 1/16 Red one
it came with a lot of extra stuff
IT IS NOT SCRATCH START IT IS LIFT TO START (pg 11)
yes it has a gas valve on the torch IT ALSO HAS A BUILT IN SOLENOID VALVE
the built in solenoid provides pre and post flow
I had to make an adapter hose for my regulator (does not come with a regulator)
the stuff used to protect the cable/hose to the torch is super stiff and clumsy (getting used to it) I may replace it (only to get one longer than 6ft not because it is to crappy to use

after I used it to make sure it worked I opened it up and it is put together pretty well even had some PANASONIC parts inside (I did the same to my MM210 and if it can have parts made in China and Mexico I guess it is OK for my Chinese welder to have Japanese parts)

the adj knob is marked 1-10 I have no idea how to translate this to amps. so as I used it I just marked it with a sharpie so I can remember what works

this may not be the best machine to learn on (I have been welding for along time) starts and stops are harder compared to more expensive machines

there is NO remote amperage control (this looks like it would be super easy to fix but I do not have time to do it right now)

I can turn it down and make very nice welds on 22 gage sheet metal
I got out my bucket of 4130 drops and welded .095 until the torch was so hot I could not hold onto it even with gloves on and the machine did not shut down and the thermal l.e.d. Did not come on
the lift to start was easier to use after I started using my auto dark helmet so I could see what was happening

[Shade]

$200 HF Tig Welder, cute toy. :shaking:

How about this welder? :smokin:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7537111967&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

[ozarkjeep]

Ive got hundreds of hours on a miller 300, and a 351 synchrowave, great machines.

But get real, that thing doesnt move around, AND they are expensive.

For the functionality of the $200 machine, vs the capabilities of the $2000 miller machine, its easy to justify the cheaper machine for alot of uses.

[Reflexx]

ESPEED and others,

I have some questions:

1. Have you used real MIGs? How does it compare?

2. I use MIG for the thick stuff (.125"+) How does this unit do on .020" to .125" sheetmetal?

3. So there's NO chance for a thumb control?

4. What's the nearest "real" TIG that I can get??? I dont want a 20 year old fridge-sized mammoth.

5. I don't see the footpedal in the ads, I assume it's there somewhere???

6. more sample pics please!!!

I bought the HF plasma cutter (must have been the Kende unit) and it was DOA. So this company has a zero rating with me so far.

thanks in advance,

REFLEXX

[chumly2071]

$200 HF Tig Welder, cute toy. :shaking:



I think this would be a good unit to get to try and learn with, if nothing else (so long as it functions)... learn the techiniques, and then upgrade to a bigger machine with more features when the skills and the $$$ are there. I also think this might be a decent little machine for guys only wanting to do thin sheetmetal like body work...

[jeeplvr]

I think this would be a good unit to get to try and learn with, if nothing else (so long as it functions)... learn the techiniques, and then upgrade to a bigger machine with more features when the skills and the $$$ are there. I also think this might be a decent little machine for guys only wanting to do thin sheetmetal like body work...


I personally have no need for a bigger machine. Sheet metal and body work :barf: is what I bought it for.
If you will someday need a bigger amchine you can try this one to get good but you could do the same on a larger more expensive machine.
This machine is not intended to be the do all tig machine, just a good little bargin machine.

[Shade]

1. Have you used real MIGs? How does it compare?
2. I use MIG for the thick stuff (.125"+) How does this unit do on .020" to .125" sheetmetal?
3. So there's NO chance for a thumb control?
4. What's the nearest "real" TIG that I can get??? I dont want a 20 year old fridge-sized mammoth.
5. I don't see the footpedal in the ads, I assume it's there somewhere???
1. I run production in my shop with a Millermatic 350P and a Dynasty 300DX. The 350P weld 16 gauge sheet all day long set at 270 IPM 0.045 wire 90/10 gas at 17.8V in short circuit. Chumly's seen it done. For what I see most of your off road needs a Millermatic 210 will be all you will ever need. With metal core wire you should be able to weld down to 26 or 28 ga. sheet.
2. which unit?
3. On the Syn 300 there are a number of options foot, thumb or hand.
4. That "fridge" will still be running in another 20 years.

I suggest you stick with a good basic Mig, MM 210... just my 2 cents... :D

[Reflexx]

Shade,

I didn't make myself clear. I've already got a nice MIG. My questions were about this specific HF TIG.

That Syn 300, how much???



REFLEXX

[ESPEED]

Reflexx

1.Yes I have used many different welders – it is like getting a KIA instead of a Honda. I can't give any long term info – only had it since this thread started

2.Works good the HF goes down to 5A I can make nicer welds on really thin stuff than a MIG on the lowest setting = 25-30A with .023 wire.

3.No plug in way. I did open up the case and the current adjustment potentiometer is pretty small with only three (can't remember) wires going to it and my first thought was this will be easy to modify. It would be real handy to extend the wires out of the machine and put the current knob into a little box with a magnet on it so I could stick it right next to what I am working on.

4.Look at the Thermal Arc Dragster 85 with the tig kit it is selling for right around $400 110v comes with a carry case and argon regulator or the Arc One 100amp inverter. somebody was having a special on the Arc One with tig parts for $4xx with a free auto dark helmet last month. Neither has a thumb or foot control, I think that they are scratch start and I am pretty sure that they do not have a built in solenoid for the gas like the HF one does.

With out a gas solenoid you have to remember to turn the gas on and off every time you strike an arc with the knob on the torch. With the HF one I just leave the valve on the torch open all the time. Anything more and you are looking at a Thermal Arc 160s, Miller 150 maxstar, HTP, ESAB, or Lincoln. All are going to be $1,xxx and will have more features.

5.No foot pedal see #3 above. Somebody that is motivated enough could probably make one or adapt one.

6.If it had Craftsman stickers on it and came with an argon regulator for $375 people would be lined up around the block at Sears to buy them. Sears does have the Dragster 85 in their tool catalog for $440.

7.Sorry about your DOA plasma cutter. The Chinese stuff that I have used-everything electrical has fried the power switch and I plan on replacing the one on this welder with a good one shortly (no problems yet with the welder). I am not saying that this was the problem that you had this is just a general observation.

8.I have seen an inverter tig from the same company Kende 200 amp? With a fingertip control for $400-500 some where (maybe e-bay?) nobody sells under that brand name though.

Jeeplvr thanks for starting this thread and sparking my interest in this machine it is not a toy as you probably would agree. It has become my new pet project and I keep thinking of new things to do with it

Shade Tree Welder: thank you for the links to YOUR welder and YOUR shop forum web site welcome to Pirate.

[redrangie]

ok, because of this thread, I thought I would try one as well. Scratch start is kinda rough (uses up tungsten from contamination) torch gets hot, and it's not got the best duty cycle.

However, I needed a more portable stick welder, that did dc, I don't weld aluminum so this is ok. Welds aren't spotless yet, (re-learning tig) but for 200.00 it's pretty awesome to be able to add two more (effectively) welding rigs to my stable.

It IS real sensitive to electrode point and gas flow, and if you dont have the knob on the torch wide open, you can't trust your flow. Also, if you open the knob too far, you such in raw air to the mix.

j

[DavidVanVorous]

...I think this welder would weld much thicker steel, perhaps 3/8.
Definitely good bang for the buck.

3/8 is pushing it on the current if you want fusion without bevelling the parts.
to confirm this, take a couple pieces of 3/8 and butt weld them together with about a .03 gap. Now take the part, put it in the vise and bust the weld. Believe youll find that you might have .06-.1" of fusion not 100%.
The reason I say this is that it takes a touch over 180a on my ESAB 352 to fuse 1/4" and most 120v welders wont put out more than around 85 (double if its run on 220v).

Id also be careful with the torch, my 150A CK air cooled gets rather toasty if run for extended times at 120a. Id also be running 3/32" 2% thoriated (red end) instead of 1/16", it lasts a tad longer and can handle the higher current...

D.

[yager]

hows the tig stuff working out on the HF welder?

[redrangie]

hows the tig stuff working out on the HF welder?


pretty well actually. My cap broke pretty easily, but that was only a 5.00 part, and I probably dropped it and didn't notice. The o-rings in the torch are cheasy, but hell, it's a 9v torch, not specific to this unit, and easy to get stuff for.

The duty cycle on tig seems way better than on arc, and I have now used it for bronze, stainless and copper, with no real difficulties. I think it's limit is really 3/16's on mild steel. For the money, and my occasional use (not production) I would buy it again.

[guidolyons]

Anymore feedback on this HF TIG welder? I saw it for $199 again... sounds like it works good on thin mild steel/stainless, but no AC for aluminum. :( I would like to be able to do aluminum....hmmm

[Reflexx]

I just bought one. $199 minus 20% off coupon, I couldn't resisit. With at two year, no questions warranty for $200 total. I'll give it a shot!

The problem is I will not be able to use it for a month or two. My shop is not quite finished, I have no power!

later,

REFLEXX

[Gusagus]

well i bought one, i'm not real impressed with the stick side, but the TIG side seems like it's going to be alright. i have no idea how to do TIG welding but from the reading that i have done and asking a lot of questions and just playing around with it, it seems like it might do what i want it to do. still need a lot more pratice though

[jeeplvr]

Still use mine from time to time and it works great for Tig.
I have not used the stick much but the few times I have used it, it worked fine.

[Gusagus]

not sure if i should start a new thread about this or not, but i had been thinking. would it be possible to hook up a sewing machine peddel to this thing? i haven't really looked at a sewing peddle yet but my thinking is it should be able to handle it. any opions on this?

[redrangie]

Still use mine from time to time and it works great for Tig.
I have not used the stick much but the few times I have used it, it worked fine.

It seems to like 6011 real well, but I have had issues with 7014 and 6013.

Tig works DAMN well for what it is.

[guidolyons]

Here's a tip I just read about while doing some research on various TIG methods. For cheaper "scratch start" TIG machines, use a small piece of copper next to/near the joint (not too close to the joint) to start the arc, then start welding. The copper starts the arc with out contaminating the tungsten electrode. I dunno how well it works, but thought I'd share.

[redrangie]

Here's a tip I just read about while doing some research on various TIG methods. For cheaper "scratch start" TIG machines, use a small piece of copper next to/near the joint (not too close to the joint) to start the arc, then start welding. The copper starts the arc with out contaminating the tungsten electrode. I dunno how well it works, but thought I'd share.


yes. commonly called a "scratch plate" DO NOT USE BRASS.....

[yager]

Any updates on the TIG welder ?

As the positive replies have indicated its NOT the end all be all welder... BUT my planned uses are in line with what they are doing...

Braxton - You mentioned you went the AC/DC w/ torch add on aproach... What did you end up buying ? Any pics? How is it working out ?

Thanks -mike

[John H]

All I can say is you get what you pay for. $199 means cheap construction and cheap components. Throw away unit.

[JamisonWorkshop]

Wanted to bring this back up. I bought one of these last week. Got to play with it this weekend. Have to say I am real impressed with it for never using a tig before. The stick side is a little screwy, but I have never used stick before either. So that will take some practice. But the tig side is nice and clean. Good all around welder for smaller things. No complaints at all.

[maxyedor]

HF has these on sale again and I think I mite just pick one up, I have a Mig as my main welder, but there are times when I just don't want to throw sparks. How's the HF do with 3/16 plate, and anybody have a list or settings and Argon flowrates for various thicknesses they could post?

[Gusagus]

thought i would post up an update. over the past couple months i have been takeing a TIG class at the local CC, and have been welding with the "fridge sized TIG units". been doing pretty good in class and decided to bust out the HF one again and see how it compared to a good miller, now that i know a little bit more about what i'm doing. with out haveing a foot pedal it's sort of a pain, but starting the arc and welding with it isn't so bad, it's at the end of the weld that this thing can be an issue. in order to stop the arc you have to pull the torch away which in turn removes your gas from the weld pool. it will want to crater your weld in steel and stainless it can turn your weld grey. the arc doesn't seem as stable as the fridge sized miller either but is stable enough to get a nice weld (might need to go up a size in tungstenand see if that helps), i don't think i could lay down a nice 1/8" bead with the HF one but it would be close. all in all i would buy this thing again if for no other reason it's 200.00 and does a pretty decent job for the money.

i think my next class project i'm going to work on building a foot pedal for this thing, which should help clean up the end of the weld some. i'll update this once i get some where on the pedal.

[53guy]

Bringing this back from the dead, but does anyone know where the hell I can get parts for a HF tig? I need a collet body and they can't seem to find the part number at all to order it. They're saying I need to order the whole torch assy just to get the collet. I'm thinking of getting the torch, swapping out the collets and sending the damn thing back. Anyone have any ideas? I wasn't paying attention the other day and just started welding and my tungsen just melted, the nozzle got glowing hot, and the collet just melted.....had the negitive and positive swapped and it just fryed the stuff. The reason the collet body needs to be replaced is because the collet is fused to it. Any tips would be awesome.

[roverjohn]

9V torches are pretty common. A quick look at a popular auction site revealed complete torches for less than $50. Or you could just get a SR17 assembly for about the same $. While I'm hijacking has anyone tried the 160A or 200A versions of these? I've been seeing the 200A Mitech TIGs for about $330 or so with HF start.