Alrght guys, I just scored this 1990 LWB RR Classis County with 178K and a heck of alot of money put into it.This is a 1990 Range Rover Classic, the County model. ABS brakes. It has been built up for as a magazine project, for Land Rover Owner International, As such, it was built up, then used on one trip to Moab. ALL THE INSTALLED ITEMS ARE LESS THAN SIX MONTHS OLD WITH _ONE_ TRIP WORTH OF USE.
-New: radiator, fuel pump, water pump, belts (with full set of spares), ignition coil, plugs, ignition wires, distributor, ignition amplifier module, coolant expansion tank and sending unit cap, coolant hoses, Bosch relays, alternator. Uninstalled spares of: heater core (brand new but current core does NOT need replacing), and coil. Plus, --
Pro Comp Series 87 steel wheels --Pro Comp Mud Terrain LT265R75-16 tires plus a full size spare/wheel
--Great Basin Rovers heavy duty hardened 24-spline rear axles--the best --Discovery 24-spline axles in front --ARB Air Locker RD56 locking differentials front AND rear with heavy duty air line kit
--Great Basin Rovers hardened ring and pinion 3.90 gearing in both diffs --Rovers North steering rod relocation kit and beefier steering rods/track rod/panhard rod
--Old Man Emu steering stabilizer --Full Old Man Emu shocks and springs gives 2-inch lift. (2) OME 767 HD front springs, (2) OME 762 HD rear springs, (2) OME N115 HD front shocks, (2) OME N44 HD rear shocks --Dual Optima Yellow Top batteries with Hellroaring isolator/combiner system --Superwinch EP9.0 9000 pound winch --Amsteel Blue 3/8” synthetic winch rope, 100' --OK Offroad winch hook --OK Offroad alloy winch hawse replaced heavy and ugly roller fairlead --Air Force One air intake
--IPF XS900 driving lights. Superb, bright, and waterproof --Custom stainless steel dashboard and glove box. ARB switches have been mounted here plus venturi air outlets. --MJ Lee differential guards front and rear --Pioneer stereo --(2) IPF 920HMSR headlight reflector replacements and PIAA bulbs --ARB Deluxe front bumper--burly! --East Coast Rovers steel rear bumper. Ultra-tough, brand new, never scratched. --West Coast Rovers rock sliders. Keep your door sills and body safe from harm. --Hannibal (South Africa) roof rack. Lightweight and tough. --Hannibal tent. Unreal how great it is! Check out how compacrt it is, then the cover comes off and it springs into place. It has a 4" thick foam mattress in there--you sleep in total comfort. No more sleeping on the ground, in the wet, with that annoying stone digging into your back as you try to sleep. These were designed in Africa to keep people up off the ground and away from things that go "Roar!" in the night! --Hannibal awning and side walls. range engage effortlessly. Steering box does NOT leak! Interior is clean if a bit worn. (2) Tanos storage boxes that can hold gear, tools, etc.

It took me about an hour getting the wife to agree that this might be a steal at this price. You guys have been in this business for a long time and I respect your Rover opinions. Pls give me feedback if you think this was a score or just a decent price. Thanks, in advance, Daren

I don't see a price.

oops, thanks for reminding me $6,900 + shipping costs

EDIT: beat me to it. Lots of goodies but if you want an opinion.... what's the price?$$$ I just read that whole thing and didn't see one. (btw, paragraphs are easier on the eyes.)

off the cuff, would love to have your axels, hd steering stuff and locker. Maybe even the Hannibal.

6900 isn't too spectacular a price.

I bought my 87 rangie 3 years ago for $3500. It was setup very similarly, minus the hanibal rack and the winch.
On the up side had the lt 230 transfer case
downside it had the 3.5
Suspension similar but different $g stage 3 with the fox shocks etc, 3 inch lift.
Arb locker in the rear.

I think you could get a better price honestly.

Sachiles, I was basing the worth on the cost of the parts. I know you don't get all the $$$ back. I have built several full on comp buggies and am considering a 4-link in the rear. Does any one think it is even worth it. That being said if I put a 3" lift under it, will a 33" tire fit. It does not look like the rear 1/4 panel can be cut. After reading some Rover tech on here, Is it worth it and how hard is it to disconnect the ABS, and is the X-fer case a piece of junk and will a new style (non chain driven) bolt right in? Lets, see, how about a 4.6, will it bolt right in and will the electrical hook right up. Thanks, Daren

Sachiles, I was basing the worth on the cost of the parts. I know you don't get all the $$$ back. I have built several full on comp buggies and am considering a 4-link in the rear. Does any one think it is even worth it. That being said if I put a 3" lift under it, will a 33" tire fit. It does not look like the rear 1/4 panel can be cut. After reading some Rover tech on here, Is it worth it and how hard is it to disconnect the ABS, and is the X-fer case a piece of junk and will a new style (non chain driven) bolt right in? Lets, see, how about a 4.6, will it bolt right in and will the electrical hook right up. Thanks, Daren
Take my opinion for what its worth.
If this was a build up for a mag....chances are they picked a random vehicle and added the stuff. It will have just as many quirks any random rangie you buy.
The accessories are nice, but I'd rather get a well sorted truck first.
If you are just going to modify it anyway why not just start with a good runner to begin with.
A search will give you what you need. Yes a lt 230 will replace the borg warner in it. Yes a 4.6 will go in it.
If you are going to do that, you might as well just find a decent 87 or 88 swb, swap the engines and be done with it. They come standard with the better transfer case. They don't have ABS to begin with. Overall have less of the modern luxuries that tend to just cause nagging issues later.
I'm guessing you are out west, so rust on an early rangie is less of an issue than it is for us in the northeast.
I wouldn't change much in the rear suspension other than a change on the trailing arms(to help with pinion angle) on a 3 inch lift.
3 link fronts are a popular way to improve the flex on a rangie.
Check rovertym or safari gards site to get an idea of what the most common suspension setup is.

Buy what you want, if it makes you happy, that is what is important. However, I think you could get that rangie for less $$ than you current deal, or buy a similar one for less.

oh

33 inch tire and 3 inch lift...you'll have to do some triming. Nothing major.

1990 will not be a LWB

Its worth what you are willing to pay for it.

JP

Flex is over-rated! Driving skill will overcome lack of flex anyday!!!

That being said, I have a 3" lift with 37" tires. Do a search to learn how I did it!

Check the rear trailing arms, I bet you they are stock.

I'm glad you only paid 6,900 for it, the seller wanted 11k for it last week.

Johny5, that is pretty funny. when I called him, he was trying to tell me how it has the "best of the best", would go anywhere, and how well it conquered MOAB. I just kind of listened. I only bought it for light wheeling and camping with my family. He had no idea that I have been competing in UROC, CALROCs, Supercrawl II and III, for the past couple of years. It is kind if interesting flearning what everyone's interpretation is on a "Good Wheeler". His must have been improved rd surfaces, while mine was the "Matterhorn" in Salt Lake. Thanks, for the replies. I truly am a Rookie at the Rover stuff and what to watch out for, what goes with what etc. So are the rear trailing arms weak. If so, I guess I couls easily put a .250 wall link with a couple of heim joints. Do you think that is better than staying with the wristed arm set up? Daren

They can be made stronger. But as I mentioned above, from a 3 inch lift and above, the stock arms screw up the pinion angle a bit causing vibes. New arms designed for the bigger lift help to correct that. Probably something you can do on your own. Its been covered a couple of times here. If you can build a buggy, you shouldn't have any problem correcting the arms.

Just be patient and wait for the thing to show up, you'll see what I mean. Drive it a bit and find out its quirks. It will let you know what needs to be fixed. They always do.

I only bought it for light wheeling and camping with my family.

So are the rear trailing arms weak. If so, I guess I couls easily put a .250 wall link with a couple of heim joints. Do you think that is better than staying with the wristed arm set up? Daren

The stock trailing arms can bend if the truck slips back a bit while climbing (i.e. climbs, loses traction, slips back, and suddenly the nose of the diff is pointing towards the sky). The simplest thing to do is just sleeve them with another tube. A better thing to do is to make new ones that come straight (horizontal) out of the bush, then bend down towards the diff. This is better if you have a lift and/or lots of flex because the bush will last longer. For your application that should be all you need, though you can build new longer arms with a heim joint on the chassis end.

What do you mean by wristed arm? Wristed front radius arms are a bad idea.

ISUZUROVER, I have not seen the vehicle yet. I am still working on shipping. I was assuming that the front has a wristed arm set up. Maybe that was the disoveries. So, would a 3-link, panard work better or standard 4-link? Daren

ISUZUROVER, I have not seen the vehicle yet. I am still working on shipping. I was assuming that the front has a wristed arm set up. Maybe that was the disoveries. So, would a 3-link, panard work better or standard 4-link? Daren
The fronts are RTE.

The rears should look something like this (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3653414/1122887842782_trailing_arm.jpg) instead of this (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3653414/1123037417309_Ramp_019.JPG)

I was assuming that the front has a wristed arm set up. Maybe that was the disoveries.

No Rovers come stock with wristed arms.

I never heard of Rover 3.9s before. I knew Bill made 4.1s. Were these a one off or...?

I am guessing that cut&pasted the listing.

John, nice pict. Who makes that poly bushing at the chassis? And, what degree is that trailing arm bent at? I'm assuming there is are different degrees based in lift. Did you you use .120 (reinforced) or .250 wall? Nice job on the T-arms, What is the advantage if not price does the bushing have over the heims. I have always used heims at both ends. Thanks, great input.

The fronts are RTE.

The rears should look something like this (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3653414/1122887842782_trailing_arm.jpg) instead of this (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3653414/1123037417309_Ramp_019.JPG)

:eek: Great trailing arms.... where did you find them, or (gasp) did you make them?

How much lift do you have? I'm wondering if I'm not high enough for those.

I ran a set of 3.9's in my series 2A back in the 80's. They originally came from Rover 90 sedans. They ended up being too tall for the motor I was running at the time and I swapped them out for some 4.3's from the Rover 100 sedan - don't know how strong they were but I never broke em.

John

very interesting! i wonder what the tooth count is on the ring and pinion of the 4.3?

:eek: Great trailing arms.... where did you find them, or (gasp) did you make them?

How much lift do you have? I'm wondering if I'm not high enough for those.
They're Scorpion Racing trailing arms with Polybush brand bushings. Polybush makes them exclusively for Scorpion.

I never heard of Rover 3.9s before. I knew Bill made 4.1s. Were these a one off or...?

I think 3.9s are from KAM

KAM may have made a spec replacement? - check this out:

Rover 100 (http://www.roverp4.com/100.htm)

http://www.roverp4.com/100.jpg


The Rover 100 was produced from 1960 to 1962, during this period 16621 cars were built. The model replaced the Rover 90 and 105 and incorporated a number a changes inspired by the introduction of the 3 litre (P5).

The engine was a seven bearing, short stroke version of the 3 litre giving 2625cc developing 104 bhp. Servo assisted disc brakes appeared on the 100 and overdrive was a standard fitment with a 4.3 to 1 axle although the 3.9 to 1 ratio of the 90 was still available to special order. Top speed approached 100mph.

Other detail changes inspired by the 3 litre included the dished wheels to accomodate the disc brakes and the rear axle was widened to maintain the track. The wheels are a distinctive feature of the model.

The car still retained the strong chassis and coupled with rubber body mounts and generous soundproofing, the car was very smooth and silent for its day. Many enthusiasts consider the Rover 100 to be the pinnacle of P4 development."

KAM made 3.8's for sure, fitted a pair on a safari racer. I belive thats a rover p5 as we know it, 4.3's from them are rare as hens teeth here, i once drove an old series with 4.3 diffs on standard wheels and the gearing was so much better, i wonder why rover never went for the 4.3 on series vehicles?

Grem

No Rovers come stock with wristed arms.


You guys are talking about "wristed" radius arms when you mean "bent" arms. A "wristed" radius has a joint in the middle of one arm, like strangerover and some of the bronco guys - and it is a bad idea and makes the vehicle unstable.

Who makes that poly bushing at the chassis?

IMO for coil-sprung rovers the stock rubber bushes work much better than poly bushes.

Run Dog, I've seen the truck. It's a pretty sweet deal - especially for the seller - most of that stuff was donated by vendors or purchased by the magazine. However, the project needs to be re-done by someone with a clue - hopefully yourself - and not just thrown together for a photo shoot. I was tempted to outbid you BTW - the truck is about 4 miles from me :cool2:

scrover, yeh I would imagine the seller got away pretty good on this one. I have built several buggies and 3 Landcruisers. I got tired of throwing the money into the parts. I have not seen the vehicle yet. Can you give me more details. Like, engine, welds or was it all bolt on? interior ect. Like I said earlier, he was really proud of that thing. I figure in the worse case the parts would cost me twice as much as I have in the car! I could always buy another one and move parts. Howevr, I would be tempted to put my MOG/9" steering axles on 38's. That would qualify as a trail only vehicle. Heck, if I quit next season, I will have plent of buggy parts for a new series project.

I am going to put atleast a 33"-34" tire under it. How much trimming will I need to do it using the 2" lift. By the looks of the rear 1/4 panel, it doesn't look like there is much area to trim behind the door. Do to COG, I really do not want to lift it much more and I'm not convinced I want take it thru the Rubicon w/ 31's. Thanks, Daren

I am going to put atleast a 33"-34" tire under it. How much trimming will I need to do it using the 2" lift. By the looks of the rear 1/4 panel, it doesn't look like there is much area to trim behind the door. Do to COG, I really do not want to lift it much more and I'm not convinced I want take it thru the Rubicon w/ 31's. Thanks, Daren

I am putting 34s on with a 3" lift, and I am doing some cutting. I can post some pics of the trimming if needed. I did the fronts already, I just need to cut down my sliders and start on the doors.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid178/pbdc871604827e9f4aa93f18ecef732b0/f32c65bf.jpg
you can see where I drew the line, I took out about 1 1/2". I can cut more if I need. This is how the left side turned out. I just used cheap door trim to cover the edge.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid178/pa087e215318c5b9dd3ef722181266f36/f32c6715.jpg

For the rear doors, I think I will grind the bottom edge to separate the outer skin, cut down the inside of the door and then fold the edge over. There is a second seal around the rear doors so I am not worried about water and mud.

CPT, can you shoot me some pics or post them? Is it safe to say that I could get 33" tires w/ a 2" lift and alot of trimming. Couldn't you TIG (aluminum) the rear flap to keep the mud and water out? I didn't realize there was that much room behind the rear doors to cut. That brings up another stupid rover question. Is it safe to assume that the 24 spline shafts will survive a 34" tire, using the front ARB moderately considering the weight of the vehicle. From everything I have read, those shafts/ R&P ect should be as strong as a Toyota axle (Longfields). Right/wrong. Thanks

Probably more then I'd have paid but all in all not a bad deal.

I remember when they started building that truck in LRO, seemed solid but the repaint is a shame.

Enjoy it, I miss my RRC sometimes. ;)

CPT, can you shoot me some pics or post them? Is it safe to say that I could get 33" tires w/ a 2" lift and alot of trimming. Couldn't you TIG (aluminum) the rear flap to keep the mud and water out? I didn't realize there was that much room behind the rear doors to cut. That brings up another stupid rover question. Is it safe to assume that the 24 spline shafts will survive a 34" tire, using the front ARB moderately considering the weight of the vehicle. From everything I have read, those shafts/ R&P ect should be as strong as a Toyota axle (Longfields). Right/wrong. Thanks

I will post more as I go along, just waiting to get the 34s mounted.

Run dog, i think the general consensus is that with the running gear he put in that truck, that should be good for 34" tires---anything bigger/or heavier may be too much ( hence the whole Toyota direction)

I've seen that truck as well and agree with Steve C above. I believe it does have stock weak trailing arms but don't remember if he shimmed it to correct pinion angle (doubt it).

I believe the 3.9's he got from Bill and they are made by Santana. Bill believes they are pretty strong. Just less $ since are OEM R&P ratio Santana from spain.

Value/worth is different depending on you. I'd rather build it myself.

<< It's a pretty sweet deal - especially for the seller - most of that stuff was donated by vendors or purchased by the magazine. >>

is this the silver rangie that was built up for LRO?

Don't you think this is a bit judgemental? if this is who's it is that I think it is, it's not like they're rolling in the dough, and they're not exactly clueless. who knows if some of the cash went back to the mag after the sell, or if it was treated as part of someone's salary. Sounds like you're talking out your post-processed pie hole to me. :shaking:

...Sounds like you're talking out your post-processed pie hole to me...

You could be right, but I'm not sure what it means :cool2:

All due respect to Dave, but he's not a Rover guy. He's a quad bike guy who got hired by a Rover magazine. He did a good job of getting a lot of vendors (including myself) to donate parts, and purchased the rest (some also from myself). I just don't think it was a very well planned build-up - a good showcase for vendors and good for the photo-shoot no doubt - but as I suggested, in the hands of a fanatical Rover guy such as frequents this board, it could be more than just a bunch of shiny new parts bolted on an old truck - or I guess it could also end up a fawking hack job too :eek:

SCROVER, good to see some PB members have seen this thing. I am not returning from Military call up until the end of Oct. So I will not even see it until I get home. Furthermore, I am considering leaving it in the Pamona area until I can get it to Lake Tahoe. Do you know any one who wouldn't mind babysitting it for me. Or does anyone know of a local shop that would like to do some heater & A/C work? My intent is to get everything mechanically wrong with it fixed before I get to it. Thanks, Daren

Contact Eddie Bostock at www.WestCoastRovers.com. He's the guy that built the beast. Actually a top notch mechanic and enthusiast.

My intent is to get everything mechanically wrong with it fixed before I get to it. Thanks, Daren


Now that is funny, I don't care who you are. :flipoff2:
[CarlSaganvoiceon]billions and billions...[CarlSaganvoiceoff]

Good luck. I do think it is a good place to start for the money, some tweaking and you will have lots of fun with it.

34s mounted, front is cut. I need to cut the sliders back in the morning, then start on the rear...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid179/ped2b7c493a4e87d2cd517977b3d3264a/f316f727.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid179/ped2b7c493a4e87d2cd517977b3d3264a/f316f727.jpg

CPTY, I could not get your link to work!

should be okay now.

Instead of everyone paying so much $$$ for new rear trailing arms to correct pinion angle (band aid fix). I think, I'm going to pull my EMU shocks and replace them w/ 14" Walker Evans Air coils. I believe the Air coils and the Rover springs would easily support the weight of the rig. However, the Air coils would allow me to change the ride height any time I felt like it. That being said I will fab up a new Y-link in the rear that corrects pinion angle. This will allow me to set ride height with 2" lift around town and 6-7" on the rocks. Has anyone tried this yet? Thanks, Daren

The factory rears are weak, that is the other reeason to replace them. The RTEs are built to act similar to a slider, smooth flat bottom surface. I have seen different home made versions that work in a similar fashion to replace the originals.

<< . Has anyone tried this yet? Thanks, Daren>>

weight of the vehicle and wheel-base change on a full body chassis aren't going to let you do this.

Instead of everyone paying so much $$$ for new rear trailing arms to correct pinion angle (band aid fix).

$250 for a set of trailing arms isn't "so much $$$" in my opinion. One things for sure, get rid of the OME sh$t....

Johnny5, on the onset, I am keeping the OME springs due to the Air coils are rated at 1klbs per corner. I already have the Walkers waiting in a box. That being said, $250 for a set of trailing arms is a "Rip Off" (.250 wall, 2-bushings, and 2 Heims) are less than $100 bucks. That being said, I already have everything laying around my shop. The set up I build will allow for more articulation, allow me to put bling sway bars on the links and will be strong as hell (IVI). The trick is being able to stuff the 14" coils under the front 1/4 panels. They may end up comming thru the top. We will see.

<< That being said, $250 for a set of trailing arms is a "Rip Off" (.250 wall, 2-bushings, and 2 Heims) are less than $100 bucks. >>

raw materials do not make a complete product :rolleyes: and there's a fair bit more beef in the rovertym links than round tube. they are a respected vendor on this board and more than one of 'em pitches us some tech every so often. please show us a little respect before trashing on products you haven't used or even seen.

cheers,
-isaac

<< That being said, $250 for a set of trailing arms is a "Rip Off" (.250 wall, 2-bushings, and 2 Heims) are less than $100 bucks. >>

raw materials do not make a complete product :rolleyes: and there's a fair bit more beef in the rovertym links than round tube. they are a respected vendor on this board and more than one of 'em pitches us some tech every so often. please show us a little respect before trashing on products you haven't used or even seen.

cheers,
-isaac
I don't think he was bashing RTE, since I posted the pics of my rear arms he might have been talking about mine.

SeaRover, not bashing them at all. Johny5 is correct. The Rovertyme links look extremely well built and well thought out. If I was a "Bolt on guy" I wouldn't hesitate to mount a set on my Rover. However, I don't need to consider liability, negligent customers etc. Being I have all the right stuff/equipment already at my house it is easier to fab up some tabs, .250 wall arms, test the geometry and be done. Not to mention setting the antisquat / roll center the way I want it not the way someone else thinks it should be. That being said, don't get me wrong, I am Rover dumb and will spend plenty of time on this board getting help figuring out my Rover. Thanks guys, when I get home from deployment, I will post pics of the new suspension and offer to help anyone out that might need it. Take care, Daren

this truck isn't painted flat black...is it?

No, you might be thinking about the one that sold on EBAY from Florida a few weeks back. It was the silver one.

Sounds pretty sick Daren! Give me a FAWKING call!!!! I have been trying to get a hold of you for days. I thought you feel off the planet! 916-390-3351