i was looking at some of your old posts about extending your wheelbase and such and i was wondering if you could help me out. i am planning on doing something similar on the rear but i need to see some pictures to see how things line up. i am interested in seeing everything ya got in the rear (quarter side shots, flex shots, rear shock mounts, raised gas tank, rear fenders, shackle hangers, clearance between tank and axle, etc.)

i know this sounds like a lot, but i've seen most of the pics on here already. if you have a digi cam, i would greatly appreciate if you could just snap a bunch of pics and post them here or email them to me. im sure others could use these pics too if you posted them. greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!!!



- jake

AMEN BROTHER!:rolleyes:

so....anyone know where he is?????????

Originally posted by JeeperJake
so....anyone know where he is?????????

Uh, Cal Rocs!!!!!!!!!

Damn! when is that little shindig over with? i dont much keep up with the west coast wheeling, besides looking at the cool pics:D



- jake:beer:

You could do a search under H8Monday.
Maybe tie you over till he gets back. might help.
I'm sort of in the middle of my stretch. went the fuel cell route and located off the stock front spring mounts in the rear.
H8's the man to talk to though.
Good luck.

got any pics of the progress brotha?:D


- jake

Originally posted by JeeperJake
got any pics of the progress brotha?:D


- jake

Sorry, no I don't. I will later on along with a write up........
but nothing I can help you with now.
Process is pretty straight-forward.
I cut out a square hole in tub and mounted 20 gal. fuel cell half out of floor, plumbed in like a TJ.
Removed rear X-member and extended frame rails 3.5" (Used rect. tubing butt welded then plated over)
Replaced stock rear X-member with 2x4 rect. tubing directly behind fuel cell. (Where I'm at)
I'll be using 52" custom Alcan springs, they will mount up to stock located front mounts and though frame relocated shackles in the back. Pins will be centered in packs and will move axle back 3".
Out in front I'll extend the frame, move steering box ahead, and do a shackle reverse. I want to move my front axle ahead 5"
Going for 102" wheelbase with stock approach and departure angles.
Like I said though, H8's the man.

Cal Rocs over yet?


- jake

Here's Jeff's post from another board.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads//showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=offroadjeepshort&Number=593845&page=&view=&sb=&vc=1
Hope that helps.

Originally posted by cjjeep21
Here's Jeff's post from another board.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads//showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=offroadjeepshort&Number=593845&page=&view=&sb=&vc=1
Hope that helps.


Im back from CalROCS, where Lance stomped a mudhole in my rig and slapped me around in public, with what real driving skill is supposed to look like.
The onlg good thing is that he also stomped everyone else, except for Terry Sheetz, who took 1st

The link to the ORC posts is a good link, and has all of the info, from when it was fresh on my mind.

Since then though I have reconfigured my rear shocks to lean forward rather than cant to the inside at the top. Both configurations work well, but the cantilevered seems a bit more stable on side hills, and the forward lean, seems to keep the wheels planted better on steep climbs(still testing though).

Heres a couple of shots, with the tank covered and the fenders trimmed and finished.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-712458-MVC-018S.JPG
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-712462-MVC-019S.JPG
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-712463-MVC-020S.JPG

Cal Rocs was awsome! H8 I'm interested in what :nuke: when you were fully gettin on it on that upper course. I was cringing at the thought of a dana 44 takin all that punishment!Man for a second I wasn't sure if the 44 was gonna blow before you threw a rod :flipoff2: It was cool to see so many people pushin thier rigs and gettin it awn!Later:beer:

Originally posted by desertCJ
Cal Rocs was awsome! H8 I'm interested in what :nuke: when you were fully gettin on it on that upper course. I was cringing at the thought of a dana 44 takin all that punishment!Man for a second I wasn't sure if the 44 was gonna blow before you threw a rod :flipoff2: It was cool to see so many people pushin thier rigs and gettin it awn!Later:beer:

He ended up taking out a front driveshaft and hub... dont know if he did it all on 3 or what.. but thats what he took out there

James

holy cow, when did you paint it? looks good

Originally posted by desertCJ
Cal Rocs was awsome! H8 I'm interested in what :nuke: when you were fully gettin on it on that upper course. I was cringing at the thought of a dana 44 takin all that punishment!Man for a second I wasn't sure if the 44 was gonna blow before you threw a rod :flipoff2: It was cool to see so many people pushin thier rigs and gettin it awn!Later:beer:


Hahaha, Throw a rod or the D44? So that was the main question,? Hmmmm[scratching my thick scull], thats a hard one to call. The D44 is holding up great, except for the Damn Warn Locking hubs. I have grenaded 3 sets of them in the last few months. I will run only drive slugs for competition from now on.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-712620-MVC-007S.JPG.
But the 5.0 HO has not even been pushed hard yet. My high rev indicator only shows a high rev of about 4800 rpms. The 5.0 can handle rpms in the 6k range all day long,(but I never, rev it that high). Nope it wouldnt be the mill, that would let go, with that little warm up, it was just trying to do what it was built for, at the request of my right foot.
The only thing I would do different, is to throw the Warn Locking hubs, in the trail run parts box, with massive red lettering, saying "NOT FOR COMPETITION". And I also need to have Jesse build me some new drive lines. My homemade mongrels, built from past Tom Woods shafts is not up to the task.

In any case, this was the list of consumables(after viewing it, on video).
The hill was not a "crawl hill", so I pointed up hill, and lit the fuse.
The right side locking hub let go, at the beginning of the climb, and the resulting 3 wheel launch came up short. I really couldnt understand why I hadnt cleared the top,(and couldnt hear anyone yelling over the sweet sound of 300 hp). So I did what made sense, and turned up the volume, the result was a seriously twisted drive shaft with busted yokes, and busted yokes at the Atlass output shaft, and pinion shaft.
I was able to get a new assembly put together, and install a slug in the axle, but it took over an hour. Which DQ'd me for too much repair time. My inexperience, and stupidity lead to me, signing my score card, at the exit of the gate, rather than waiting untill the last minute at the start of the next gate, or we could have possibly made the time limit. I dunno for sure, but i will not make that mistake again.

So with nothing to do but watch, I was more than happy to help haul Capn America out of a tough spot, in front of a crowd,...Well thats when the tranny case on the NP435 buckled, while in reverse, and cracked all the way across the rear of the case. It still turns the gears, but makes a hella lot of noise in reverse, and has been running without fluid now for a couple of days( a replacement case, is being selected by my favorite junkyard technicians as we speak.

In short, the parts that let go were obviousely weak, so they will be replaced, and well run at it again in 2 months, in Reno.

I had an awsome time. It was great meeting all that came up and introduced themselves, or even offered a helping hand.

Oh and the rig isnt black and white anymore.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/9-712310-MVC-004S.JPG

You have restored my faith in the dana 44 as a front axle! I don't think I will be breaking it too often with my 6 popper. Now, for some warns and Ctms!The only person I saw crawl that climb was DSI. Apparently he didn't know that he was supposed to mash the go pedal! That was one tuff spot though.Tracy Jordan put on a pretty good show gettin up that spot:eek: I can't wait for Reno! Later:beer:

hey where is the gas fill for your tank at??

You are a sick sick man, H8Monday. Jeep looks better painted like that though....

Question, wtf are those rails on the rear wheelwells? fender flare quick disconnect bracketry? Unfinished exo-cage work? Some sort of bizarre sex toy? (oops.. is this thing on?) :D

-J

Originally posted by brimy311
holy cow, when did you paint it? looks good


Painted it Friday morning.
My spotter John Shreeve, and I found an abandodned house, in the desert, with a carport covering 3 sides. We took 9 cans of paint, 2 cans of primer, sand paper, and all of the other painting supplies. We swept down the carport, and spent about 4 hours drinking beer and getting the rig all doll'd up. The paint job came out way better than I would have thought. John is a master painter, with a rattle can.

The gas filler, is located on the driver side rear fender. Inside the bed rails. You can see it, if you look closely in the 1st pic.

man you :nuke: two np435 cases now!!!! i wonder why i have run one and seen alot more and never heard of one giving up. hopefully the next one will last.

Originally posted by xBabyJesus
You are a sick sick man, H8Monday. Jeep looks better painted like that though....

Question, wtf are those rails on the rear wheelwells? fender flare quick disconnect bracketry? Unfinished exo-cage work? Some sort of bizarre sex toy? (oops.. is this thing on?) :D

-J

The L metal was used as a quick way to put a safe edge, on some butchered sheet metal trimming, before the Amador CalROCS event. It was put in place as a temporary fix, but has not been able to make it onto the short list of repairs ever since.
It will soon be replaced with Tube modifications, I have designed for the tub at the sides and rear.

I was gonna just throw the pieces into the scrap bin, but if you, have a lustfull eye on some of the pieces, lemme know Ill ship em too you,....No details please. :D

On Kevins 435 it would push out the roller bearings in the reverse ideler so we pulled them out and machined a brass busing for it. This was 2 years ago I think and no problems since.

Originally posted by 66CJdean
On Kevins 435 it would push out the roller bearings in the reverse ideler so we pulled them out and machined a brass busing for it. This was 2 years ago I think and no problems since.

Im gonna break it open tomorrow and see what it looks like, inside.
It sure seems like something was forced outward from inside. But it seems like if something walked out on the countershaft, that it would just bust the countershaft cover. I dunno. The last time I re built it, I paid close attention to shimming the gears and sycros, but didnt even really look at the reverse assembly.
Thanks for the info.

The rattle can paint job looks nice. And when you say you swapped the broken locking hub for a slug are they the same thing you see in Waggy's wilth the silver cover. And anybody no where in Reno they are having the competition, I can't think of any place near or around Reno that would be suitable, only place I can think of is Bronco Canyon and I know that is not nearly extreme enough.

H8, I've talked to a few people and they mentioned that the Course was set up for carnage and that I should be weary about entering in Reno. Waddya think? Did you suffer major body damage and do you think you could run successfuly without totaling your full-bodied Jeep?

Originally posted by Rock Toy
H8, I've talked to a few people and they mentioned that the Course was set up for carnage and that I should be weary about entering in Reno. Waddya think? Did you suffer major body damage and do you think you could run successfuly without totaling your full-bodied Jeep?


I dont think you can compete at the CalROCS, Pro Modified, or Unlimited level if you have any concerne at all, for your vehicle body. I know that Bob was not trying to design the course to be brutal on the Stock Mods, but Ron Kirby, still had a very destructive multiple rollover, durring the finals.
All of my expose corners and rockers, are 1/4" steel. The only stock sheet metal left is around the doors, and the cowling, (and the hood). And if you look closely at the pics, those areas are all slightly wrinkled, or dented.
If you are gonna compete you have to just compete. If you start choosing lines, or taking points, to protect the paint, you wont do well, and youll still probably end up with damage.

Originally posted by Rock Toy
H8, I've talked to a few people and they mentioned that the Course was set up for carnage and that I should be weary about entering in Reno. Waddya think? Did you suffer major body damage and do you think you could run successfuly without totaling your full-bodied Jeep?

Its all about lines rocktoy.. shaffers roll. was caused by going too far left in the turn.. ron's roll was caused by putting a tire on top of a rock that ended up getting moved over the day. the rock wasnt a lightweight either.. you would probably stall a winch trying to move it. chances are ron wouldnt of rolled if he had a strap out.. but going into it.. it didnt look like he would need it. We try not to set up the course for roll's or damage.. but it does happen..

All of the rolls on my course could of been avoided, 1 was kind of expected by desertoy when it turned sideways at the beginning.. the spotter on one of them.. thought it would be fine.. and he headed down the hill..

all i can say.. is a strap will stop 95% of the rolls

H8- if you're stuck on locking hubs- run the oem ford ones. comparatively the warns are junk. I'd put money on something else breaking before an oem ford steel locking hub.

Originally posted by Aggro
H8- if you're stuck on locking hubs- run the oem ford ones. comparatively the warns are junk. I'd put money on something else breaking before an oem ford steel locking hub.

Drive slugs are the only way to go for competition. Easier to remove and install and you are not going to break a drive slug. I would put alot of money on a slug before a Warn or Ford hub.

Originally posted by The Rockslut


Drive slugs are the only way to go for competition. Easier to remove and install and you are not going to break a drive slug. I would put alot of money on a slug before a Warn or Ford hub.

I won't disagree since I run slugs exclusively, but if you must run locking hubs- you won't find any stronger than the oem ford ones. kay?
I don't compete- I just like the flanges, no breaking them no questions, no doubts jmo to each his own. None of my junk lasts long enough to worry about the "excess" wear from full time 4x4!

The only reason I run the Warns, is because the Jeep is transformed back to my second car after the competition, and is used as a daily driver by my girlfreind. I usually change the Warns out for slugs, but for some reason, that didnt make the checklist, of things to get done. At the start of the course, I looked at my spotter and said, "those Fawkin hubs could be a problem", "Lets change em before the next course".
I have destroyed 3 of them, I knew they could fail, I just plain fawked up.