: Inboarding rear springs?
Flatty 03-06-2002, 01:55 PM Ok, so here is my dilemma... I want to run the F150 springs in the rear, and do not feel like keeping them where they are. I was looking under the rig the other day, and noticed it would be EASY to slap the springs under the frame instead. I can build my own spring hanger up front, and then just get an old spring, (I have a shitload of these) and use the eye off it. Weld and bolt it ot the bottom of the frame, and I have an inboarded rear setup.
My only question is how will this work on the street? I have no clue how it will behave on the street yet. I know it wil flex really well, but I ahve to drive this on the street as well. I can move the rear end back some, and get a longer wheelbase out of it as well. Sound doable>????
Dimitri
Paul Gagnon 03-06-2002, 02:04 PM If you have 2 1/2" or 3" wide springs you can probably make use of Explorer spring hangers. Four doors have the 2 1/2"(multi-leaf) and two doors have the 3"(mono-leaf)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=339747
You're definitely gonna lose some stability on the street, how much depends upon amt of lift, cog, vehicle weight, load, etc. A large sway bar in the rear may solve most of that. Also, I don't see how it could possibly help off-camber stability when 'wheeling. Just something to think about if you do a lot of off-camber stuff. Finally, the last potential prob I see is that you're not really *supposed* to weld spring steel, but you could easily make a different type of frame mount. My .000001
Flatty 03-06-2002, 02:39 PM Ok here are my thoughts on it. If I bolt the spring on the frame, it would work nice. As for the stability, I think it would be a little soft, but I can run a RS9000 cranked allthe way up and it should work
Dimitir
Paul Gagnon 03-06-2002, 02:49 PM k, I haven't been paying attention. What is your new rig again? :emb:
I don't understand why you need to bolt a piece of spring to the frame. Are you doing buggy leafs or is that your solution for the shackle? :confused:
Flatty 03-06-2002, 03:28 PM 77 Early Bronco. As for the spring on the frame part, I can't use a bolt through the frame, so I have to run it under the frame. The gas tank in teh abck seems to get in the way.
Dimitri
Oh yea, I just found out the frame is only 1" narrrower than a CJ frame, and they are stock under the freame, so this should work.
Dimtir
bent70 03-06-2002, 11:01 PM I was going to inboard my springs under the frame too. But now I am in the process of mounting up my new bracket in the back for a shackle flip in the stock location.(Well 6in. back bII springs)
I know I am going to drive on the street a little and from what Fullsize Rulez said about his spring swap to under the frame, its better off keeping the springs mounted wider for stability.
ps flatty I got my tires today and all I can say fullwidth and 39's are looking sweet.:D
goodluck however yo9u go about it.
Rubicrawler 03-07-2002, 09:50 AM Dimitri- I ran into a guy up in Sac a couple of months ago that did just what you're thinking. He used F150 springs under the frame. He loved the flex but he did say that he did experience a lot more body roll. He mounted dual 9012's outside of the frame and had them set at 5 on the road. That seamed to help the body roll.
truckdweld 03-09-2002, 12:27 PM Dimitri, i just did this same thing on my chevy truck. I built my own hangers front and rear and am running 63" chevy rear springs. I have only driven it a little since i am not completely done and it does have a lot of body roll. It was a lot of work i dont lknow if the benefits are really worth the work but hey, thats why we do this stuff. Gotta be differant. I say go for it and run 9000's cranked to 5 and see how she works. I'll let youy know how mine works. it may be a little differnat though since im a fullsize with a light little flat bed, but ill let you know any ways.
Ryan
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