shop air - filters and regulators..

[Brandon]

All right, I got my snazzy flex line and all the plumbing. I am pretty happy with my "plan" having all "branches" from the main line going up and then back down with a valve to let water out below every air "port."

Problem is I have zero regulators, filters, oilers, etc..

I don't really thing I want an oiler, I'd rather keep my hoses clean and just hand oil occasionally. I was going to put regulaters at the places where the lines break off from the main line if that makes any sense, so multiple regulators instead of one near the compressor.

Think this is any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3871205621&category=56991&ssPageName=WD1V&rd=1

My compressor might put out more than 150 is the only problem I see. I'm thinking with the way I have my lines I don't really need a filter but I dunno.

So.. whatya think?

BTW, this is my compressor

http://www.industrial-air-compressors.com/air-compressor-3-1.html

and all my fittings and lines are 3/4" reduced down at the "ports"

[PAToyota]

Cannot speak to the brand of regulator or compressor, have not worked with either. I'd stay away from oilers - especially if you ever plan to use the air for painting. If anything, I'd put an oiler at the end of the hose right before the tool. They make small inline oilers for that purpose. Filters all depend on what you are doing. I'd put filters in right before each port to at least keep any small debris from getting into the tools. Not sure if moisture is a problem for you, around here it definitely is! Even low relative humidity can condense in an air system, though. What kind of piping did you use?

[Brandon]

un-galvanized 3/4" Pipe

so filters how about regulators? I'm runnin wide open 150 psi right now, I dunno how bad that is for the tools but they all seem to work fine :grinpimp:

[PAToyota]

I know a number of my tools have maximum pressures listed on them. I have a big regulator right after the compressor that knocks things down to 100psi and then a couple of the drops have regulators on them so that I can further reduce pressure if needed.

The 3/4 steel pipe should help with any moisture issues, but I'd definitely run the filters because you are going to get rust particles in the lines.

[BumpyDodge]

If you aren't sure the regulator will handle 150 psi tank pressure - the pressure switch (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?QueryString=pressure+switch&catindx2=Air+Compressor&catindx1=Pressure+Switches%2C&search_type=keyword) that controls the motor on/off will have a range of adjustability on most electric compressors. Unplug the unit and remove the switch cover - look for an adjustment screw. If there's no adjustability you can swap the pressure switch for a different one. The compressor will cycle on/off more often if you lower the tank pressure which can be annoying, but it should run cooler and under a lighter load. Last longer maybe?
Quincy compressors have a seperate adjustment because they have an "unloader" instead of an on/off pressure switch, I set mine to ~125psi. Supposedly Quincy does it that way so the compressor always has full oil pressure at the bearings (they are pressure oiled). Just a heads-up if you come across one- they work a little differently and it took me a while to figure it out.

ditto on everything else.

[Brandon]

I actually have a cheap ol regulator that I am using for one drop and I noticed it says max 125 psi, oops - but it's still working. Tools do specify a max pressure but most are disposable more less HF stuff. My IR die grinder is a work horse but with all that I do with it it has paid for itself over and over and..

I think I'll get some of those cheap ebay regulators. I can't figure out why regulators range from $10 to $100, don't they do the same thing?? I figure maybe cheaper ones limit flow a bit more, but I am using a 3/4" regulator - that's gotta help over a 1/4 or 3/8 one. Now to shop for some filters..

http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/detail/13506/

dang, they can be pretty pricey too. I guess it's an investment as long as they last - and that's a good one. Might be good on the one drop that I do use for painting..

These are nice little in line filters and oilers..

http://www.coilhose.com/uploads/products/Page%2045.pdf

BTW, this is where I got my plumbing layout from - using it except the oiler/regulator stuff which I will be adding I guess - just gotta decide on which stuff where..

http://www.tptools.com/statictext/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

[PAToyota]

Got my compressor and sandblast equipment from TP. On the little stuff, their prices are nuts though!

[cj7jeep]

I just upgraded my air compressor and a buddy got me a new water trap, regulator, and oiler from where he works. At first I wasn't sure about using the oiler because I want to do some painting. I T'd off after the trap and regulator and run 2 hoses, one side of the T goes to the oiler for tools and the other is clean air for painting and air nossles. Works really good.

[Kartracer55]

I have stuff from grainger... speedaire. It seems to work very well, but we spent like 220 on 2 regs and a filter, but The filter is all aluminum 3/4npt 5 micron, and the regs are 1/2 rebuildable.

Id say avoid anything thats polycarbonate, and just go right for cast aluminum stuff. We had the filter bolw of an old filter at school explode one day. Scared the shit ouit of of us. oil fromt he compressor just ate it away.

As far as filters, Id say 20 micron is the minimum, 5 micron is ideal. A micron is EXTREMELY small, but I dont know the exact measurement.

Dont install a regulator right at the tank. You need a reg for EVERY drop, the reason is that regulators drop pressure than recoveritwhen you use the tool, and so if you are using 2 tools the regulator wont let enough air through it.

Instal a filter as far down on the line as you can, but before the first drop, and T the drop of the top, and loopit back down. Intall another T out the side of the drop, and put the regulator on the side.


Id say Grainger, The stuff from TP looks good, IR is a good name, Norgren, any of the big names. Stay away form poly carbonate, and def. DO NOT cut corners with the filter, as it will save your tools from moisture.

Oilers are only good, if you will only be using air tools, like in a repair shop, and wont need to blow stuff down or paint. If you ever want to buy a cheap paint gun, and you have been using an oiler, your lines will have oil in them, and your paint job will comer out like ass.

Jim