Like I said, any one here using a 5.0 in their YJ, do they make short shaft AOD’s or an adapter for the 15’s. I remember Sillyneck had this bout a year ago but I can’t find it nowhere.:confused:

Aww come the fuck on, you fauker are telling me nobody has this?

why dont you PM silly and ask him:flipoff2:

My 5.0 is attached to an NV4500 and a atlas II, so I can't help you there.

Sorry
Craig

Originally posted by CrazyCraig
My 5.0 is attached to an NV4500 and a atlas II, so I can't help you there.

Sorry
Craig

you just think your the shit don't you!! :flipoff2:

I've been here and PM'd a shit load of people but noting so far I basically want to know if I can still use my 15 whit a 5.0. i dont have a lot of$$$$$$ right now I just bought a house, but the jep makes the Exxon valdez look like a drop in a bucket, http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=75670&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

Originally posted by Brad
why dont you PM silly and ask him:flipoff2:

I don’t even know if he’s still around, anyone have his E-mail?:flipoff2:

Originally posted by CrazyCraig
My 5.0 is attached to an NV4500 and a atlas II, so I can't help you there.

Sorry
Craig


:flipoff2:

Alive and kickin' still doing burnouts to tha dome!!!!!! :D

They make all kinds of stuff...aod's-300's/231's or toyota cases...whatever. Adapting an ax 15 is a waste of time and $$$$

Lemme know what specifics you want

The 5.0 Swap I can handle the wiring,…..Well I will figure it out it always works that way whit me, now my ting is whit tranie, I will most likely be using a mercury HO 5.0 out of one em cars that looks like a T-Bird LXS or something like that, I really don’t know “ I’ll figure it out” But my thing is I want to go as cheap as possible and don’t want to go around messing whit a tranie that wont work or is going to be to long or the wrong bolt pattern or all that other shit. Which tranies are plentiful enough for me to find one around here or, the Feep got a hefty lift on it so I need all the drive shaft I can. So there that’s what I need. Somebody give me words of wisdom.

Originally posted by Sillyneck
Alive and kickin' still doing burnouts to tha dome!!!!!! :D

They make all kinds of stuff...aod's-300's/231's or toyota cases...whatever. Adapting an ax 15 is a waste of time and $$$$

Lemme know what specifics you want

What up daawwg!:smokin:

Btt

well....I guess you should run a t-18 or 435 for ease of compatability and and shortness.

-you need a small block ford bell housing (w/ throw out arm) - 435....or t-18...fine and dandy, now you need a newer f-150 flywheel so it matches the balance of the 5.0 HO. Not sure of the cut off year...but if you want to do what I did....get the original 5.0 flywheel (not flexplate, you may need to borrow one) and get a 5.8 liter flywheel then take them to a machine shop and get the 5.8 matched to the 5.0 wheel. Then add a newer 5 speed clutch for a ford whatever (they are nicer than the old style) LUK brand is good. Then a normal 4 speed style jeep throw out bearing. and maybe a 5.0 new pilot bearing if it was an auto.

Use any slave cyl cause you need to make your own mount.

There are about 15 wires to hook up...loads of fun BWAHAHHA :D

make sure it is not a big block bellhousing ;)

OK this is exactly what I was looking for as far as the wiring. Now if I could just find something like this on the Trany. And you guys that done this can you check and make sure the info is correct, I would really appreciate it. Thanks:D

http://www.bc4x4.com/chrisw/projects/powertrain/wiring.asp

if you go with the manuals that sillyneck suggested you need an 11" clutch, 164 tooth flywheel. Ask for a flywheel to fit a 89 f250 with a 5.0 and a 5 speed. This is the one I used in my EB swap, I got it from Subway truck in sacramento.
hope this helps...

Stay away from the AOD they can be made strong but it is expensive, many EB guys go 5.0to 700R4 because it is cheaper than building an AOD that can handle some abuse. I say if you want an auto use an old school C4 or C6, they are easy to rebuild yourself if you want to. You might find a decent deal on a bronco C4 and dana 20 and come out way ahead by not buying any adapters.

Keep it coming boys this is getting good. I like the Idea of the EB T case, what I don’t like is the fact that the U Joints are so tiny, and How many speeds on the C6 or C5, which is the shortest, I like sillies set up and so far I’m going whit it. But I’m open for suggestions, I already found one of the yards that will let me take a whole 5.0 Stang for $650 as long as I bring him the rest of the car back after I take what I need. I will be taking out a lone Monday for the swap so….Keep it coming fags.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Qbert
OK this is exactly what I was looking for as far as the wiring.
http://www.bc4x4.com/chrisw/projects/powertrain/wiring.asp Chris has one (if not thee) best web page out there for the 5.0!

Here is my sugestion:
This is a MUST for anyone thinking of swapping in a Ford EFI 5.0L. Buy the Probst pamphlet "Multiport EFI Engine Management Harness" by calling Ford's Tech 'Hot Line' 810-468-1356 for only $5. Then buy or barrow the Probst book and read it, a lot! "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control : All Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks 1988 to 1993" by Charles O. Probst. Only 28 dollars. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0837603013/qid=1011421351/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_2/102-9229428-7720961
Or a great second option and worth it's wieght in gold is the large and well documented Helms wire manual. $18.50 http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Style=&Sku=FPS1213692E&itemtype=N&mscsid=AE2ERK42JWGU9GVH77PFM7WQBB7G44DD
And Mitchell wiring manual, from local library or Auto store. Plus the Haynes and Chilton books.

Also the C4 is a 3 speed and a great tranny, it also saves drive shaft length!

Originally posted by Mr.N
Chris has one (if not thee) best web page out there for the 5.0!

Here is my sugestion:
This is a MUST for anyone thinking of swapping in a Ford EFI 5.0L. Buy the Probst pamphlet "Multiport EFI Engine Management Harness" by calling Ford's Tech 'Hot Line' 810-468-1356 for only $5. Then buy or barrow the Probst book and read it, a lot! "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control : All Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks 1988 to 1993" by Charles O. Probst. Only 28 dollars. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0837603013/qid=1011421351/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_2/102-9229428-7720961
Or a great second option and worth it's wieght in gold is the large and well documented Helms wire manual. $18.50 http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Style=&Sku=FPS1213692E&itemtype=N&mscsid=AE2ERK42JWGU9GVH77PFM7WQBB7G44DD
And Mitchell wiring manual, from local library or Auto store. Plus the Haynes and Chilton books.

Also the C4 is a 3 speed and a great tranny, it also saves drive shaft length!


NICEEEEEEEE

hey anyone know of a site like that for chev TBI and TPI motors??

If you get the motor out of a 86 and up mustang,the wiring for the motor to the computer is on its own harrness.It is two power wirers and 1 ground to hook up.the fly wheel is an ext. balanced unit get one from 88-89 and up ford trucks.If your going to put it in a YJ just get a tranny and t-case out of a bronco and be done with it t-18/205 what ever.lots stronger and cheaper then trying to mate it to your tranny.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/5_0l_wiring.html
this one is also good lets me see the pics, I'm pretty good on the wire part of it lets talk some more trani

Anyone have a link to a ford Fact sheet or information For the EB and 78-85 Drive train, trans and t-case I liked the suggestion of using the bronco set up (Trans & T-case to eliminate adapters), however I don’t know what t case came in the 78 on up fords, does it have a slip yoke? If that’s the case I cant use it unless it has the fixed yoke. Thanks. And remember Short is good, this time anyway:D I’m trying to narrow my options.

Originally posted by Qbert
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/5_0l_wiring.html
this one is also good lets me see the pics, I'm pretty good on the wire part of it lets talk some more trani
So, are you sold on and Auto?

You'll need to get a C4 out of an Early Bronco, as that was the only 4x4 C4, it has a special shaft out the rear. This hooks to a EB Dana 20 T-case. Solid case drivers drop, works well, only improvement area is the rear output shaft.

To make the C4 work, get and AOD Flex-plate from a 5.0L. Tehn find a C4 torque converter. C4 had two torque converters (1973 and up) you'll want the one with 11.5" inbetween the bolts. Then all you need to do is bolt the C4 converter to the AOD flex-plate! Also watch out for the C5 stuff, you don't want it. The C5 bellhousing is deeper than the C4, thus the converter will not ingauge. I know this from posts on this board and I have a C5 and C4 bellhousing! C4's live behind 800+ HP cars, also a good build up will cost $800-1,000. One last thing, the Truck C4 has a harden input shaft, a must! (other words, don't get a Car C4 and convert it to 4x4)

C6 is a great tranny, I just didn't do it as it's too long. Plus I'm going to run a C4 203 D20 some day. (search for info)

Pic from last Fall.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/mrnimages/p5.0injeepnotrunning.jpg

Thats a Saginaw pump. Bracket is from an 84 E150. Only year I've seen the bracket that small. Also a good upgrade to do.

I am running with the AOD and you are very correct about the expensive upgrades But I really enjoy haveing an automatic off road now.

I don't want to read the whole thread so if this has been covered disregaurd.

- get the whole car because
---the a section of the top of the gas tank can be cut off and can be shaped to drop the fuel pump into the YJ tank (they are the same depth at the pump.

----In turn you can use the high pressure 'stang lines and just bend them to fit in teh jeep. (they are a bit long but just take the long way to the motor ;))

Btt

I got my wiring diagram from helminc and reduced it to a simple this goes there sheet I keep meaning to put up on the net, I really think that bc4x4 is very confusing and did not help me. The harness is a seperate harness so a diagram that ties it to "jeep"or "bronco" or "toyota" makes no sense. I reduced it to this wire goes to hot always, or acc, or ground or etc...

makes more sense to me

I know you can't read this but it lays out ea connector and where it needs to go to, along with the number that corresponds to the ford wiring diagram. Doesn't get any easier than this :)

Thats a dam good idea thanks man. now another ?? Ford manual ZF 47 transmissions, will it fit? I dont even know what this ting looks like or how big it is

Brandon is there any way to clear that pic up or to resize it so it is readable that looks to be a great help as I am about to wire mine any time now. Also does any one have a part # for the flywheel I have gone to 4 different auto parts stores and they all had no idea on what to get and there were no listings for anything 80 and up. I have been asking for a flywheel for an 89f150 with a 5.0. but it sounds like I need to ask for an F250 I just bout and 11 inch clutch so that should about do it hopefully.

actually I think you need the flywheel for the 351 since the ford 5.0 (car) is the same firing order but NOT the same as the truck 302, so the flywheel is weighted differently. Not positive though :(

I can't remember what I got now. Yea I need to convert my paper to a web page, just haven't gotten around to doin it is all.

should be able to read this..

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/temp/DSC00495.JPG

What’s the difference between a car 5.0 and a truck 5.0? why use just the car one, why cant I use a truck one? Just curious.

Originally posted by Qbert
Thats a dam good idea thanks man. now another ?? Ford manual ZF 47 transmissions, will it fit? I dont even know what this ting looks like or how big it is

it's an awesome setup. 5.72 first, and something in the .7 range for fifth. Ford used it from some half tons, all the way to their f-550's. it's about 1" longer than using a 435 and dana 20 setup for an eb if you get the adapter and run a EB dana 20 behind it from www.bcbroncos.com. you may need to massage your floor a bit to install it.

actually I think you need the flywheel for the 351 since the ford 5.0 (car) is the same firing order but NOT the same as the truck 302, so the flywheel is weighted differently. Not positive though

NO NO NO! the 351's are 28 oz. imbalance from their inception in 1969 to their death in 1996. the 302's ALL changed to 50 oz. imbalance in 1982 or 1983 (cant remember which year) so the flywheel for cars or trucks with a late model 5.0 (302) will be 50 oz. imbalance. the cars have a 157 tooth flywheel with a 10" or a 10.5" clutch, while the trucks have a 164 tooth flywheel with an 11" clutch. If you have a 302 from before this change it is 28 oz. imbalance, just like the 351's.

What’s the difference between a car 5.0 and a truck 5.0? why use just the car one, why cant I use a truck one? Just curious.

the car 5.0 is sequential port fuel injection. It fires the injector right as it opens the intake valve for that cylinder. this rersults in the best economy and power. The mustang engines from 88-93 california or 89-93 federal are considered the ones to get, because they are MASS AIR and non OBD-II. This allows for easy engine modifications and swaps, because the computer measures the engines airflow, instead of speed density where the computer reads engine RPM and air density, and figures the airflow based on a preprogrammed chart for the stock engine. The mustangs also have a low intake height, as it's laid flat across the top of the engine.

The truck 5.0 on the other hand is a batch fire fuel injection system. It fires all of the right side injectors at one time, and all of the left side injectors at another time, and it hopes that the fuel stays atomised untill the intake valve opens, and draws in the air and fuel. The truck engines are also all speed density. The final drawback to the truck engine is that the intake is 6-8" taller than the cars, it has it's long runners vertical, instead of horizontal like the cars.

did I atleast get the firing order part right? yea I remember now, just had to be newer, I used an early cast bellhousing though

435
What would be a good price to pay for one of these? Whats the average for the adapter to the 231, I goot a lot of cash in that bad boy.

depending on rebuilt and what it includes, anywhere from $100 - $1000. the adapter is around $500-600

Wow Brandonn that was extremly helpfull. Thanks a lot and nice job on that it will save me some serious time. Did any one get that part # for the flywheel I really need to find one.

the pick n pull I went too knew about the swap and knew what flywheel I needed. Sorry don't have the part number :(

What exhaust do you guys think is the best whit this set up. I have seen several. But what do you use and do you like it.

I had to use manifolds from a 289 mustang (early 66 or so) to clear my frame rails. Stock headers rock, just wouldn't fit..



http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/MoPower/engine/exhaust/sensorNairpickup.jpg

I only have to cats right now, guess I need all 4 before I go the ref though :(

Originally posted by Brandon
I had to use manifolds from a 289 mustang (early 66 or so) to clear my frame rails. Stock headers rock, just wouldn't fit..



http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/MoPower/engine/exhaust/sensorNairpickup.jpg

I only have to cats right now, guess I need all 4 before I go the ref though :(


SWEET is that paint? and if it is how long since you painted them?

he he yea paint, probably went after I first fired it - haven't looked lately ;)


purty eh? Better than rust brown (too cheap to buy new stuff so I reused the old for now)


http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/MoPower/engine/exhaust/dual3.jpg

I think I am going to get custom headers made up cause I am going to need some funky bends to clear everything.

Wy the H pipe, does it really work?