the idea of propane has poppd in my head so I've been doing some reading on it (nice tech article Lance).

Question I haven't seen brought up yet is.......what type of mileage do you get? Here in Texas propane isn't like in California so I'd like to make sure I'm not gonna run out at wrong time. Plus I drive my rig to/from trails so need some range.

Thanks for input

The rule of thumb is expect to lose anywhere between 10 and 20% of your gas mileage numbers. If your engine is built specifically for propane (high compression, etc.) you can approach the same mileage figures as that with gas.

--Rob

don't forget the 30 to 40% power loss!:eek: going from gasoline to propane.

Nah, that's a little much. ~20% if your engine is in good shape. Again, less loss if the engine was built for it.

--Rob

i was told that it is about a 10 percent loss in mileage, by a guy who own propane performance. he also said to get the power back, its all about timing. he said lots of advance, low in the rpms, and little to none above 4k, or else it will ping. i didnt have my propane long enough, so i can verify the results. i did get very good mileage coming back from fordeyce this last summer. like 12/13 mpg
pat

The key to getting your power back with propane is to turbocharge the damn thing. Propane can put up with a lot higher compression, but rather than shave your block and heads down, if you keep the stock compression ratio and run 5 or 10 psi boost instead, a turbo'd propane engine can easily outpull a na gas engine, without the pinging problems associated with that much boost on 87 octane gasoline.

I've personally seen this done on two engines: a 400 inch pontiac in a firebird, and a chevy 350 in a 3/4 ton suburban (tow rig). On the Suburban, my friend also used water injection with the turbo and propane setup, which gives him about another 50 lb-ft torque when running full throttle.

DO IT!!

Binder, how did he set up the water injection???

:eek: This I gotta hear!! :eek:

I am going to be running an AMC360 and can set my system to run dual fuel OR I can set it up to run just propane. What is this "water injection" stuff all about and how do you plumb it? Will a "charger" be as effective as a "turbo"? Currently the 360 I have is all stock. I would greatly appreciate any info you guys have. THANKS!! :beer:

Watter injection is just that. A little injecter sprits water down the intake and when it gets sucked up in the combustion chamber the water evaperates witch expands giving more compression. More compression = more poop

Chiefy ... I kinda figured that part out, but how would it be plumbed considering I am currently carbed? What kinda goodies makes it work, regulate, etc? And would it work with a supercharger set-up instead of a turbo? I wanna GET IT right from idle.

I recall reading that if you setup to run dual fuel you'll end up unsatisfied with the performance of either fuel. However, if you go strictly propane and take the time to tune it you'll be happy. I think I'm paraphrasing Lance on this.

Thanks BBB! I had heard that before somewhere.

I guess straight propane it is. Anybody done a carbed 360 V8 set-up before? I have heard some stuff about corrosive gas streams killing the valve train because of propane. Anything special to keep this from happening? I still wanna know if I can run a supercharger instead of a turbo. I don't think the :mad3: heat would be such a good thing. And I still wanna know more about this water injection system in more detail.

I already have the propane conversion kit to go in my '76 Chero. I got the 130 litre tank which is equivalent to about 30 gallons. Does anybody make custom propane tanks? I want more capacity and have been thinking of a long kinda thin tank underneath between the frame rails and guarded by a full belly pan. I have 4" of custom body lift so that should help out. Any hints or :idea:s?

:beer: TIA :beer:

Here is what little I know:

Dual fuel setups are a problem due to the differencein timing and the prefered spark curve required between gas and propane. Propane burns much slower then gas and requires more initial timing then gas doesm it also requires the advance curve be more agressive...I have heard total timing should be more then gass but I have also heard it should be less. It makes sense to me that it should be more and that's what I'm running right now. Because of the high advance and advence rate required for propane will make it ping ans runnlike ass on gas dual fuel setups often compromise to the gas side and make for poor performance on propane. My mild 350 does not make as much power as on gas but it is not bad now and I really belive I can tune out some more of the power loss with time.

As for engine life, propane does nothing but good. My uncle ran a propane 454 in an old chevy truck and went 6-7k between oil changes. When you drained the oil it looked clean still. Propane engines are supposed to have a longer life because they have no hydrocarbons to sludge up the oil. You will stil have normal wear but because the oil stays better longer. As for valve issues I have been told that is not an issue as long as you have hardened seats.

TO plum it any kit you buy should come with line and fittings that you make up yourself. To be leagle the lines have to run outside and if the tank is in the vehicle anywhere the valves and lines have to be sealed from the drivers compartment. However---IMO this is not best for off roading. My setup I have tanks in the bed and the line enters the cab under the window and goes through the fire wall tot he regulator. I thought this was best because there is NO possible way for me to snag a line and I don't have to worry about them open to the elements

Everywhere I look I see you need a block heater to keep the vaporizer from freezing if you plan to start on propane cold...I have yet to have an issue, I started mine in 0-10* weather and it seemed fine, however if you drive in the cold a lot it is somethingn to consider.

HTH, If you have any questions PM or e-mail me

Thanks DUG!! You have reiterated some good info and makes it seem solid.

OKAY!! 100% Propane powered I will be! :D I already have the entire kit with lines, tank, and all. :p


=O HEY BINDERNUT!! or someone else who knows fer shure ...

:question: - Has anyone done the "Water Injection" system on a carbed set-up?

:question: - Can I use a Super Charger instead of a Turbo get up?

Originally posted by tigger4x


:question: - Has anyone done the "Water Injection" system on a carbed set-up?

:question: - Can I use a Super Charger instead of a Turbo get up?

Here is what I "know":

Water injection: You can set water injection up on any type of fuel system, all you need is a small pump (like the one that squirts blue juice) and a calibrated oriface to atomize it. You can trigger it manually or be supa' pimp and use a adjustable boost switch to make it come on. I would caution against a carb on a gasoline turbo motor, they just do not have the fuel metering that a turbe requires....can you say turbo Trans Am? or turbo Riviera? Bith good ideas hampered by a fuel system that could not keep up with the demands of a turbe. I big reason for that was they forced the ait into the carb with the turbo rather the drawing the air through the carb like a blower does. This helps the carb work correctly. Of course the down side is atomized gas into a hot compreser.....not good...water injection is a must in a case like that if you plan to flog it hard. If not you have a very high chance of blowing the turbo to little itty pieces. There are some rare setups fpr the SBC where the intake draws through the carb and into the turbo and then back in. It seems toi me they have a lot of bends and ducts to negate the positive effects and when a friend of mine tried to run one he had all kind of issues with the flapper doors that where supposed to keep the thing from back pressuring the carb under bost but allow bypass at low boost conditions and for starting. To much of a PITA IMO.

I don;t know much about turbos an propane, I would assume they force through the carb and would require a different type of carb to force through as the propane carb uses vacum to metter fuel. I think any kind of draw through system would work OK but I really don't know how propane would react to the compression.

No good answear there

HTH