I am puting a 351W in my 71 FJ-40 and i was planing on puting a Q-jet on it because rumor has it that they are one of the best off-road carbs. My question is how does the choke work and will it work with a Edelbrock performer 351 intake. i know there are a few different virsions so i need to know which version would be the easiest to set up. i would perfer a manual choke if it is an option.

Thanks Michael

Chokes came divorced (mounted on intake), electric, or manual. Divorced won't work with your intake, at least easily. When I put a Qjet on my Dodge the carb was originally set up for divorced, but I converted it to manual.

so is there any way i can run a q-jet with my intake or do i have to run a different carb all together? And if i do have to run a different carb what would be the best for hard off-road use?

thanks

You need a square bore to spread bore adapter and a manual or electric choke and yer good. and IMHO the only 4bbl carb to run offroad is the qjet.

Mike's right. Unless you've got a spreadbore Edelbrock manifold, then you don't even need the adapter. My old iron Mopar intake won't work with a divorced Qjet choke either, that's why I converted it to manual. This involved drilling and tapping a 10-32 hole in the choke linkage plate and fabbing a cable clamp mount off the old (Mopar divorced) choke mounting pad. Don't get worked up, man - it's easy to put any Qjet you want on there, especially if you prefer manual choke. If you do use the adapter, get the 4-hole one (designed for squarebore carb on a spreadbore manifold) and use it upside down. It'll require clearancing on the secondaries, maybe with a die grinder. Mike might know something about this. ;) With the open-plenum adapters, you lose the low-speed benefits of a dual-plane intake.

Originally posted by Lloyd
If you do use the adapter, get the 4-hole one (designed for squarebore carb on a spreadbore manifold) and use it upside down. It'll require clearancing on the secondaries, maybe with a die grinder. Mike might know something about this. ;) With the open-plenum adapters, you lose the low-speed benefits of a dual-plane intake.

I might at that ;) A die grinder works well enough, although the stone will load up on you if you use a stone made for steel. You can clean it out somewhat with a wire brush or on a piece of steel. Take your carb and test fit frequently by opening the secondaries. Mark the interference spots with a marker and continue on

http://ajax.extremejeep.com/mike/Pictures/ADAPTOR.JPG

Carbide! Probably hard to justify the cost for just that one job, though. If you know someone that ports cylinder heads, they've probably got a few. Very nice plate, Mike!

This involved drilling and tapping a 10-32 hole in the choke linkage plate and fabbing a cable clamp mount off the old (Mopar divorced) choke mounting pad
Lloyd, do you have any pictures of how you set up the choke on your Dodge? I dont quite get what you are talking about with the divorced choke.

Thanks

I don't have any pictures, but can try to get some for you. Would 1000 words do instead? ;) For the original divorced chokes, there's a housing with a bimetallic spring bolted to the intake manifold - ignore that. If the linkage rod is still attached, throw it away. Ignore the "divorced choke" business altogether. You've got a carb with intact choke linkage, but no pulloff spring. All that you'll be doing is working up a simple cable-operated handle for the existing choke linkage.

I used a manual choke cable from Auto-Zone, mounted it under the dash, and ran the cable over to the pass. side of the carb. On the pass. side near the front is an odd-shaped metal plate; rotating the top toward the rear closes the choke. Pick a point on this plate where you've got a reasonably straight line clear toward the back of the carb throughout the plate's range of motion, and drill/tap here. Envision the letter D backward and leaning forwards about 50 degrees; the right point is near the top, where the straight edge that goes in towards the pivot point intersects the curved outer edge. (As seen from the pass. side of the carb.) Wind the end of the choke cable into a circle that the screw will just go through, and put the cable on the screw. Add a jam nut, so that the nut locks the screw in place on the plate but allows the cable free rotation. This plate's radius of motion is short enough that clamping the choke cable to the plate will cause it to bind; leaving a free pivot here makes them work much better.

Now, you'll need a bracket for the outer layer (sheathing) of the choke cable. There was a conveniently-placed bolt hole in my intake manifold, so I found a bolt that would fit it, and made a bracket for the end of the cable sheating. This bracket is a piece of 1" x 1/8" flat stock, about 6" long, bent at a 90-degree angle and bolted in place. It sticks up near the air cleaner; it also has a 90 degree twist because that helps it clear everything. At the top here, I drilled and tapped two holes about 1/2" apart, and screwed down another small piece of flat stock to clamp the outer cable sheathing. You could use the top of the back carb bolt, or one of the intake manifold bolts, or any number of attachment points.

If you're running a manual transmission, (edit: oh yeah, I see NP435 in your sig) you might like the setup used on my old Jeep when I put a Motorcraft 2100 on its 258-six - T18 combo. This was a generic 10-speed bicycle shifter mounted on the shift lever. I machined a collar of 6061 Aluminum with some set screws to clamp onto the shifter lever, then clamped the bicycle shifter to that. Ran long cables to the carb, and set up one side on the choke like above. (Well, mostly. This one had a hot-air provision originally, so there were some differences in the details of converting it to manual; but the same general idea). The other side was set up as a hand throttle. I made a pivot block that screwed to the throttle linkage, and with a cable-sized hole perpendicular to the pivot bolt. The cable was run through the hole, and a simple cable stop clamped on ahead of the pivot block. When you mashed the throttle by foot, the cable simply slid inside the pivot block - no interference. When you pulled the hand throttle, it yanked the cable stop back against the carb linkage and opened the throttle plates. It'd give something like 1/3 - 1/2 throttle from the hand lever, very useful in tight places. I'd put these up close enough to the top of the shifer so that you could operate them and shift at the same time. With the friction-clutch style bicycle controls, you can adjust the tension on these to suit the circumstances.

I hope this is clear enough to give you some ideas. I'll try to get pics of the Dodge setup for you soon. If you're interested I might be able to get some photos of the Jeep setup also. Hope this helps.

Thanks, I think i understand what you are talking about but a pic would still be apreciated.

Michael