xj steering upgrade

[bigjakesxj]

well, i've looked into some steering options for my xj, im' running 35's and still running my 30 front axle. what would you recommend for the turdy for steering upgrades without going out and spending tons of cash for a wj knuckle set and all that crap, i eventually will go bigger and don't wanna sink crap into my turdy. i've seen guys use a chevy tierod end that was drilled for a drag link tre. does that make sense. has anyone done this. any info would be great or pics

[offroader5]

3/4 ton TRE's....1 1/2" .250 wall DOM tubing....some weld in threaded inserts....a Snap-On reamer....about 3 hours of time with a welder and a drill. Don't forget about your track bar though. It will have to be modified at the axle end to more closely match the new angle of the drag link. I did mine over the knuckle at the same time...when you do this, you also have to cut off the sway bar end links from the axle tube.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/th_image001x.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/image001x.jpg) <----Clicky Clicky

[Drunk tank]

I have a inverted T setup like offroader5 cept with hiems and it does work. you d get a little rotation of the tierod as the draglink goes from pull to push so it give a little dead spot in the steering but its not a big deal personally. how ever, it would be nice to have a few bends in the drag link at the pitman end so the hiem or tre comes in at a 90* angle and youll be able to achieve as much flex as possible with not steering binding

[bigjakesxj]

so you guys have had good luck with these, how bout on road performance. like driving to the trails 'n stuff. everyonce in a while the wife will have to drive it back and forth to work. it looks good and i'll be looking into the parts today.

[Drunk tank]

I drive mine as a DD everyday and I have a 20 mile commute to work... so i do about 50 miles a day on the street with it. no personal experiance but I heard with the TRE's theres less rotation and a maller dead spot because of the big rubber bushing. I wrapped some innertubes around my hiems really tight and then put a zip tie on... now its alot better.

but ya... its a strong reliable setup and you can use it on a DD no worries... just gotta get used to it.

notice too that Offroad5 and myself both went overknuckle... more ground clearance. But one issue youll run into is that the TRE will hit the spring cups so they have to be ground down a little. also.... you have to relocate the sway bar mounts. I dont run a sway bar anymore so it was no issue to me and you can see or5 doesnt run one either.

personally, i dont even notice not having a sway bar anymore... my driving style changed to accomidate that. Then again a you shouldnt be driving a lifted jeep like a race car anyhow

something to think about. I say go take your sway bar off now before you do the steering stuff and drive around for a few days and see if its something you're willing to live with.... hell... let the misses drive it with ya so you both can get used to the feeling.

[GoingOffRoading]

3/4 ton TRE's....1 1/2" .250 wall DOM tubing....some weld in threaded inserts....a Snap-On reamer....about 3 hours of time with a welder and a drill. Don't forget about your track bar though. It will have to be modified at the axle end to more closely match the new angle of the drag link. I did mine over the knuckle at the same time...when you do this, you also have to cut off the sway bar end links from the axle tube.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/th_image001x.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/image001x.jpg) <----Clicky Clicky

http://www.nagca.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16005

Writeup just incase you want it.. 1 ton is Hellof beef

[bigjakesxj]

yeah, i don't have swaybars now so i'm not that worried about that part, thanks for the info guys

[gearwhine]

http://photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/th_image001x.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/image001x.jpg)

bumpsteer to the max

the trackbar is like 3/4 the length of the drag link.

[Drunk tank]

http://photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/th_image001x.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/image001x.jpg)

bumpsteer to the max

the trackbar is like 3/4 the length of the drag link.
true... there will be steering feedback from the drivers side tire traveling up and down. we all knwo the tracbar needs to be paralell to the drag link.... but you also want to try to and make the trac bar the same length as the drag link to work properly. the mosr the drivers side tire drops... the more your wheels will turn to the right when youre trac and drag arnt the same length.

While this is the ideal solution... it cant be done on the D30 without moveing the spring perches back so the trac bar can continue. In reality youre vehicle has very little suspension travel on the street.... except when you hit a large bump or dip at very high speeds. therefor the steering caused by suspension travel with different length links isnt much of an issue. and when youre crawlinit shouldnt be an issue at all because of the slow speeds, so it wont be something that will jump out and send you flying off the road.

Gotta make the comprimise the best you can when modifying stock equipment. just the way it is. If I were OR5 though, i'd try to make that drag link a few inches longer and bring it closer to the spring.

[bigjakesxj]

btt

[offroader5]

I have very negligable or near zero bumpsteer. You can't even see the track bar in that pic anyway. The length of the track bar and draglink on mine are within an inch or two of each other and are parallel.

Only other pic I have online right now....
http://photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/th_image006x.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v126/offroader5/Just%20Some%20Pics%202/image006x.jpg)

BTW...the write up above, GoingOffRoad had said "1 ton" where really it's only 3/4 ton parts. Those are the same ends I used. Just as an FYI.

[korda]

I know it's bolt on but Off Road Only's U-turn is the nicest setup I've seen for a dana 30.

I've got the 3/4 ton steering like mentioned above on my 44 and I can't wait to change it. That dead spot that's "not a big deal" only gets worse and worse. It wasn't bad at first but I'm getting sick of it quickly and I wouldn't ever do it again.

[ashmanjeepXJ]

I helped a buddie put 1ton rod ends on a d30, He needed to run some wheel spacers but could easily work depending on your wheel combo.
I think this is what we used.

ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod 7/8"-18 WITH HOLE FOR DRAG LINK, for T-geometry steering.
Application: 85 Blazer
ES2234R $23.99 Shorter then the drag links, driver side tie rod 7/8"-18
Application: 85 Blazer

ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end Passenger side 7/8"-18 about 7in long with 3in of threads, BIG taper OR ES2010L $40 Shorter then the drag links, 7/8-18 right and left hand thread TRE.
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link Pitman arm side end Are 7/8"-18 about 7in long with 3in of threads, BIG taper

[mcracco]

A bit pricey but the Currie setup I have is serious beef and has been holding up well. Flipped driver side to top at same time.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CEStore/Product569.aspx?id=1219

[gearwhine]

I have very negligable or near zero bumpsteer. You can't even see the track bar in that pic anyway.


you changed the picture dude

[Mo]

:cow:

[bigjakesxj]

any other upgrades