am I blind :confused:


I haven't been able to find a 1.6L FAQ anywhere.

I have gotten info from searching, clicky (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1343643), like what I need to get from the donor rig and other useful info. But seeing as this is probably one of the most popular engine swaps for sammi's I figured there would be a faq.

who do I need to talk to so one can get started?

some questions that I think should be in there...

who's got good links to swaps?

who's got info from a swap they did (like what problems you encountered, little quirks, etc)?

what's the best rig to look for when looking for a motor?

I've been here for a few years and have never seen one either. Seems like everyone who says they are gonna wire their own up never come back with the details. :(

All you need is the block and the starter. Then get yourself a swap kit from someone like Calmini or Petroworks or Trailtough or Suzukilightningconversions. The stock sammy head will work as will the distributor, intake and exhaust manifolds. Also you may need to keep the timing gear off the old motor, since suzuki used round and square tooth timing belts, they obviously need to match. Or get one from the sidekick motor you're using. if you can get the head still on the motor so much the better. Just make sure it's an 8-valve head so your sammy manifolds will fit. If you get the sidekick head you just put your sammy distributor on it. Make sure to make the sammy rotor line up like the one you took off so the ignition timing is right. jd
ps. the sammy exhaust system will rob you of 5 mpg and a lot of power. you need to upgrade to 2 1/4" tubing behind a header. use 2 1/4 tube because it gets down to about 2" in the bends. if you're using mandrel bent tube that doesn't neck down in a bend then you can use 2". I'm still using my stock catalytic converter and a 12" long glasspack "cherry bomb". I still exhaust it from the stock location and at the stock tail pipe angle to keep the exhaust from blowing back in. if you run it straight out the back or out the side you will smell it. I've tried 4 different ways and the only one that works is the way it left the vehicle stock.

I've been here for a few years and have never seen one either. Seems like everyone who says they are gonna wire their own up never come back with the details. :(

Hey Art, you where one of those people that said they where going to wire their own. Where are the details? :D

Hey Art, you where one of those people that said they where going to wire their own. Where are the details? :D


Oh no man, that wasn't gonna happen. I would have burned up the Popsicle long ago if it depended on my wiring skills :shaking: I went with a Harness form Sean DeVinney at Aftermarket 4x4. Great product, SUPER fast service. :grinpimp:

I've been here for a few years and have never seen one either. Seems like everyone who says they are gonna wire their own up never come back with the details. :(

If you want to pass emission, keep everything but the lights and interior acc. wires, if not just cut everything but the engine stuff, keep everything attached to the motor. I did the hardest swap, OBD II with auto trans, I just cut the trans computer completely out. I was going to get more elaborate in my write-up but the only way to do that is to start telling people which wires to cut, you can read a wiring diagram for that. here's the write-up I did. (http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images/2003/2-0216vmotor/2-0316vmotor.html)

i am still thinking about wiring my own, but haven't jumped on it yet. i used a plotter to print out the complete (single diagram) schematics in uber-huge format from my donor yearmodel kick and samurai, and got to it with the hiliters and colored felt-tip pens. i found it a little more difficult than i had anticipated, since the schematics don't go inside the ecu, and color-coding has it's duplicates in the system. i am pretty good with wiring, i can find a bad capacitor in the guided missile system in the turret of a bradley with ease (5 miles of wire in that vehicle), but the decision comes down to $ vs. time and patience. since i tend to come up a tad short on all three, i am swaying toward one of brent's jobbers. you gotta buy the conversion plate and motor mount adapters anyway, so trailtough's new price figures out to only about a hunnerd buh for the wiring job. so maybe that's why those of us who boast about tackling the FI conversion ourselves never get back to the board and share our results!

Well, I'm going to do mine. I have the wiring harness stripped down to the bare essentials already. That took about 3 nights after work and the kids were in bed so there were no interuptions. Right now I am about to remove the motor from the donor vehicle.

Oh yea, It is the 1.6 8v from a 94 tracker. I think I have read enough and received plenty of pointers from others that have done it them selves to takle this myself. I will report progress.

plan for my buddie's sammi was to find a donor vehicle and just get the wiring jobber from trail tough. i know I'm no good at wiring and she's a newb at wrenching, so in the long run I think it'll be better for us that way.

gonna attempt to find a 1.6L 16valve for her sami and get all the stuff from the donor vehicle that brent recomends.


so, does anyone have any other info besides wiring up the motor yourself? I'd really like to get this to FAQ status and we're gonna need a lot more info than what's here :flipoff2:

when I did the 1.6 16v it was a 95 with crank sensor and coil distributer. I made my own mounts to drop the engine in the frame a little lower, also used late 80 3/4 ton dodge rubbers. used a 1/4" plate on the dr side at the motor to keep it square in the frame. I should have just adjusted the frame mounts when we redid them but forgot. We printed out all the diagrams of both ECMs and went to town. That info I doubt you will find floating around. We used the stock 1.3 radiator with a good electric fan. usde all the 1.3 water hoses just cut them to fit. You need a Ford truck electric fuel pump also. I didnt use the 1.3 crap trans but opted for the RingR so I couldnt tell you what has to be done about clutches etc. For the fabricated chalenged Wiring harness can be had from TT or Aftermarket 4x4, or wazoo if you can find him.
adaption plates TT, motor mounts TT, wiring harness TT. Petroworks also carrys some of the stuff you would need to do the swap.

i think petroworks has the best motor mounts. no body lift required, and captive design. schweet!

Sorry, here's my story, with pics and cheapo conversion ;)


http://www.nitromax.nl/SAMENGINESWAP.HTM

No need for wiringchange on mine

i think petroworks has the best motor mounts. no body lift required, and captive design. schweet!

If they are the best I'd suggest making your own, I broke them twice. First time the rubber bushing ripped out, second time the welds failed on the motor mount bracket and the rubber tore from one of bushings.

I broke them twice.
:eek:

Brent at Trail Tough makes the best conversion kit, as well as the best motor mounts pre made....

I have used other kits, and will only buy his...