I have a 71 FJ40 with 350 in it with a over-the-frame header from Downey. Also have a saginaw p.s. with the shaft running along the frame. Planning to replace it with a ram horn or block hugger exhaust manifold.

How much room do I need to accomplish this? Need some advice from someone who has similar setup.

:confused:

I am close to finishing (enough to enjoy it) my 76 FJ40 with a setup like you are asking about. It has a 350/TH350 4spd case combo with the ram horn manifolds that go straight down on both sides. I also have the P/S setup from TPI Landcrusier without a spud shaft. The placement of the engine is close to center right to left and I have about 3 inches of space between the valve covers and the firewall.

The closest the steering shaft gets is about an inch off the output flange. My only gripe is routing my plug wires, because the manifolds go above the valve cover level I was unable to use wire looms off of the cover bolts. What I ended doing is running the wires to the fender well and bringing them around the firewall to the distributor. I also placed some plastic wire sheathing on #5 and #7 wires since they could rub on the steering shaft.

For the rest of the exhaust, I ran a crossover pipe under the engine, then continued with single exhaust down the drivers side between the drivetrain and the frame straight out the back. I went with a Dynomax stock replacement muffler because I wanted to keep the noise level to a minimum.

From personal experience I would advise against the ram horn manifolds that go down and back on the output. You will burn up #5 and #6 wire on a regular basis without heat sleaves and that style is prone to breaking off right above the spout, especially when hot and hosed with water.

Overall I would say I am very pleased with the ram horn manifolds. I thought at first headers were the way to go until I put headers on another vehicle of mine. What a pain! I'm not losing much power because of the manifold compared to headers and with a slighty built 350 I will still have more than enough. I have been building this 40 with ease of repair, maintanence and durability in mind. I hope this helps you out.

I have had my 327 with ramshorn manifolds on my 71 FJ40 for about 10 years now. I also had Downey headers and got tired of cooking everything under the hood and inside the cab so changed to ramshorn. I used some sheet metal to fill the fender cutout for the over frame headers. I have saginaw conversion, with GM tilt column. My steering shaft passes about an inch away fron the manifold flange. My engine is slightly offset to the drivers side.

I don't have a dig cam or I would take some pix for you. It worked out good.

David :usa:

Appreciate your help. I now gained the confidence in pursuing my project. Just bought a brand new ram horns for $90 from a private party.

The crossover pipe - Is this a custom made? What diameter pipe? How long the steel pipe last before rust eats through the metal? Has anybody done it in stainless steel? Any idea how much a custom pipe, excluding muffler, going to cost?

What about clearance between frame and rear spare gas tank?

I had one set of dual pipes go all the way back past my aux tank ONCE. It cost me close to $300 complete. I have had the duals exit in front of the rear tires twice. I get about 5+ years per set.
I have thought about making a crossover and doing single exhaust, but my front driveshaft would be very close to the pipe. Might even hit if I got much movement up front.

David:usa:
I dont know about the newer blocks, but my 327 has places to mount the spark plug wire retainers below the manifold. I just neet to find some of those holders before I burn up my new wires

I used pieces of exhaust from a couple other vehicles that I had around the house. How I got around not crushing the crossover pipe was to route the passenger side forward then around the hump in the oil pan then back and connect it to the driver's side. I used 2 1/4" pipe all the way through which is a little small but might be as large as I can go. I might try 2 1/2" later when I have it professionally done.

I don't have a spare tank to worry about, but I did come very close to the frame where it passes the transmission. I didn't want to get too close to the shifter cable. That is the only place I could see myself having any problems.

I was quoted close to $300 for what I have now for a layout with 2 1/2" pipe with a Flowmaster.

I did it on mine and it all depends on the donor vehicle for the ram horns, you can use a summit piece at $300 with ceramic coating or just go to a shop and get it done. the best horns are hoizontal dump ie no angle then wrap the exaust with 2.25 to the drivers side and join with a 2.5 or 3" and then straight back. I did mine with several flangers and ball sockets to remove sections if need be...was spendy but sounds throaty....$525 due to the extra flange's and exhaust size at 2.5 all the way....went 1 to 2 for the coolness factor....next time will be smart and just use one......

I got my crossover pipe from Butch Baker. They fit really tight and are well made and is resonable in price.

His email is dbaker@cableone.net

Charles

I was just looking through NAPA's exhaust catalog, and I'm going to see if any of the factory crossover pipes will work. There has got to be a cheaper/easier way to do this. I would like to run the exhaust inside the frame and out the back left. Have to leave enough room for my fuel injection pump and plumbing though.

David:usa:

Take a look at this.

Exhaust on a 40

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To: <LandCruisers@tlca.org>
Subject: Exhaust on a 40
From: "Butch Baker" <dbaker@netexas.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 00:44:32 -0600

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've come up with a foolproof method of putting trailworthy exhaust on a
40, with a smallblock Chevy. It consists of 2 Rams-horn manifolds, straight
down dump.You start with the crossover for a 66 1/2 ton 283 Chevy PU. This
routes the exhaust pipe around the oil filter & puts it in about the same
spot as the original.From here run 2 1/2" pipe in the factory location over
the skid plate, using the stock hangars (or locations) ,you can mount a
Flowmaster or clone either in front of the rear axle (in cases of rear fuel
tanks) or at the rear behind the axle. On ours wwe have the pipe dumping
directly in the center belos the hitch/pintle hook. The power is great, the
single exhaust, unless you have a high rpm motor, works as well as duals, &
I'll guarantee you won't tear it off. Total cost, not including manifolds,
in our shop $179 Terminator Muffler (Flowmaster Clone)...... $209
Flowmaster Muffler.
E' me direct if you need more clarification.
Butch Baker Bonham, Tx. dbaker@netexas.com
76 FJ40 " Old Yeller''350 SM465 SO lockers etc.
Conflict is inevitable......
Combat is optional.

Butch Baker's new email is dbaker@cableone.net