I want to build a 60 for the front of my XJ. Catch is, I want it to be stock width (60") and retain the coils, 4 link and trak bar. I know that the mid 90s dodge 60s had coils.

Could I get away with just narrowing one side of the 60 (passenger)? How difficuly is it to weld brackets onto? SHould I stick with the RR 60s from the F250s? Should I build a 9" center with 60 outers?

Yes, I am insane to build a unibody rig, I am way into this project. LEt's just make that assumption up front.

THanks for any advice.

SeanP

The Dodge 60's also had disconnecting axle shafts like XJ, ball joints, and they are SR, not RR. I think Ford is your best bet since they had king pins, no disconnect and necked down shafts in that area, and driver's side high pinion RR. If you're going that big with the tunabody IMHO you'd want to run Y-arms if not leafs so the factory Dodge brackets don't get you much. Just make up four identical 1/4 plate chunks to hang the upper and lower halves of the Y-arms off of, then some spring pads and shock mounts. The tubes will weld up like any steel if your amps are cranked up, the c-section is a pain.
If your pinion is pointed at the tcase with a CV then the driveshaft just acts like it has more lift, so the pumpkin doesn't necessarily need to be lined up straight.

How big a tire are you going to run anyway?
If its less than 38'' (witch is huge for a chickery) you don't need no stinking 60. :D

If your building a 60 front, What do you have in the rear?

Might as well go 60 60 and 8bolts.... Rear would be easy.

Do you drive on the road? Trailer? Full width! easy swap.

Since you already have the BB 9" in the back then just look for a HP D-44 from a F-150 and get custom Shafts and CTMs. Not as strong as a D-60 but close. plus it will weigh a lot less. If your set on the D-60 plan on mix and match or total custom on the brakes/rotors/spindles to keep your existing bolt pattern

Thanks again for the brake parts :beer:


Eric

eric hit it head on. :beer:

DUH, I never thought to read your sig....

Too many weird sigs out there to read them all.. Sorry bout that.

I like eric's Idea too. Now that I see you did the rear already.

Thanks for the advice. There is not much use in me going 44, except for more gearing choices (which I won't need with 4.3 Atlas) and bigger alxe tubes. I already have the 297/760 u-joints which seems to be the weak point of both the 30 and the 44. I am thinking of building a hybrid 9"/60 but I want to keep the price under $1500 for the whole thing (incl. ARB and gears). I am not too worried about my bolt pattern changing as I can sell my current wheels and I would like beadlocks anyway.

God , somebody shoot me now before I spend my retirement funds and this damn jeep.

SeanP

Depending on how much lift you have, a RC 60 may give you clearance problems with the engine or exhaust. Since you already have a 9" rear, Id say go with a shaved 9"/ 60. It would be a lot easier to fab control arm brackets too as well. Look for a dodge or chevy 60 donor, so you can go 35 spline