Is there any trick to removing the riveted upper bump-stop on the rear of a 99 model suburban? I thought about heating them up, but the rear brake lines and electrical connections run down the inside of the frame-rail.

Do I just take a chisel and BFH to 'em?

I am trying to install some HD load-leveling airbags if it matters.

Center punch then drill a pilot hole all the way through the rivet. Use a larger drill, close to the size of the rivet stem, and drill all the way through. Now use a cold chisel/hammer and knock off the rivet head. If the rivet stem is still in the rivet hole, you can use a punch to drive it out.....
This way is slow but its alot faster that just trying to chisel them off without drilling out the centers.
:skull:

Thanks for the quick help! I was totally bummed when I saw that they used rivets instead of bolts... :(

On a side note those 1/2 ton brake drums are pretty damn small... I think my FJ60 has bigger drums! Now that I think about it, the Toyota may weight about the same... just kidding... :D

If you have the tools and can get to it, I generally use a 1/4" grinding wheel on a 4.5 grinder to cut a slot in the head of the rivet almost to the base. Takes about 1 minute or less. Then use an air hammer cutting chisel to knock the 2 head pieces off, and then the punch attachment to knock the remaining rivet through. Total time per rivet is less than 2 minutes if you don't have stuff getting in the way. Much faster and easier than drilling IMO. Plus I hate sharpening bits. The air chisel will take it off by itself but, that takes quite a bit of tooth rattling and the 2 step seems much easier, as long as you have room to get the grinder in.

If he's got room to get the grinder in then grind the whole head off and punch the rivet out.

Grinding the whole head off take a great deal more time that cutting a slot, it requires more room, AND, it is harder to do without cutting into the frame (especially if you try to do it with a perpendicular blade due to lack of room to turn it roughly parallel). A good air chisel can work pretty well without even having the slot. With the slot, you can even pop it off (relatively) easily with a cold chisel and manual hammer (again, if you have room to swing and position the chisel). Basically, if I've got room, I grind the slot and knock it (the head) off with the air chisel. That's the quickest, and I really hate having to "ride" (and listen to) an air chisel while it works its way through. If there is not enough room, I use the air chisel by itself and deal with it. If that doesn't work (can't get the air chisel in), I break out the drill or start taking things off to get better access.

I've got plenty of room... The frame will be up on stands, tires off and axle at full droop. I'll get at it this weekend with the angle grinder and pop 'em off!

Again, thanks for all the suggestions and pointers... I owe the lot a round of :beer: :D

I've tried both methods, and the fastest way was the drill bit routine. Sharp drill bits and cutting oil.
A cutoff wheel is fast but normally its a PITA to get a good angle to cut off the rivet head, you can't cut it off flush with the frame. More time with the chisel.
A pnuematic chisel will work good, but if you have a bunch of rivets to cut off, plan on getting carpel tunnel syndrome!
You'll just have to believe me on this, doing spring overs on Cruzahs I have had plenty of practice removing rivets.....:skull:

go with the dog on this one.

I dried a drill and air tool with a cutter. Prefer using drill. The out come is clean.

Originally posted by Snake47720
If he's got room to get the grinder in then grind the whole head off and punch the rivet out.

That's how I do it...... Guess it's preference

Oh, and I use lots of :beer: :beer:

Use a scarfing tip and an oxy/acet. torch. I just got done doing 12 of them in about 20 min. Scarf the head off, then blow a hole through the middle of it. then take a BFH and a large punch and nock the little bastard out. Super fast but not if you dont have a torch:D

Any other ideas that don't require the use of a grinder, torch, or air? Some U-pull-it yards don't allow the use of anything over your basic toolbox. (rechargeable drills are allowed)
How's the rechargeable drills hold up to this kind of use/abuse?

If you have a good 18 volt cordless Drill motor you might be able to just drill out the heads until they pop off. Then knock the rest throught the frame with a large hammer and a stout punch. :usa:

I knew about the drill-n-punch deal. Just not sure of the drill lasting long enough. But after I posted, I thought, DUH the DeWalt 18 volt would do the trick just fine. I guess it also depends on how much there has to be done. Gives me another excuse to upgrade my 9.6 volt and my 12 volt drills.:D