97 PSD 4" Exhaust Install

[scoutkid]

Well, I finished my first 'mod' which was a nice 4" intake on my truck, it helped a LITTLE, mostly less smoke on acceleration, and a TINY bit more turbo noise.

I'm sure most of you know that the 94-97 PDS exhaust left quite a bit to be desired. After the turbo, it takes a swift 90 degree bend nearly straight down. Be it a lack of foresite, or communication by the engineers over at Ford, there wasn't QUITE enough room for a round down pipe, it would have interfered with the firewall. So what did they do? They smashed the hell out of it, effectively turing a 3" DP into a 1" wide 4" long oval. Directly following that is a nice fat catylitic converter. Who knows what evils hide within, but you can tell by its swollen belly, it is not of the 'free flowing world'. It's more from the bowels of the 'no gas shall pass' world. It is a power robbing flow restricting monster. After another few feet of 3" exaust pipe we find a fairly average looking diesel muffler, a few bends over the wheel, and out.

I will start this breif overview from the top, er, bottom. I have been watching ebay for a 'great deal' to come across, and I found one that seemed 'ok'. It's a full 4" system, 3" DP, made of 16 gauge aluminumized steel. Pretty much your run of the mill system. I like the 16 over the 14 gauge, and 14 is 'supposed' to be more 'tin-y' sounding.

Climbing under the truck, I took after the stock exhaust with the fury of many badgers, and the tool of gods; the sawzall. Although, it proved itself in the end to be no match for the mighty DP of the powerstroke, but i will talk about that later.

Basically cut out the old shit anyway you can. I made 1 cut, right before the muffler, and cut all the original hangers in half. This released the mamoth serpant-esqe mass of pipe, and allowed me to wiggle the tailpipe toward the front of the truck, and over the axle. Pretty simple. I then cut the 2 bolts holding the stock DP to the catylitic converter, and dropped the once untamable cat whirling to the ground. It fought well, but was no match for electricity and reciprocating steel. Simply WD40 the stock rubber hangers, and pull out the rest of the metal hangers. Now we are to the dreaded stock DP.... but first, a picture!!

[scoutkid]

If I were you, and thank God I'm not.. I would NOT just lossen the V-band clamp and try to muscle the old DP out of position. While this sounds like a grand idea, trust me, it will only end up with you getting pissed. However, if you try hard enough, you might be able to 'clearance' the firewhile like you will have to latter anyhow :laughing: Moving on, take your handy sawzall, and cut the wee out of the DP. I mean really go after it. It is VERY satisfying! Underneath the truck, reach up as high as possible, and cut that little bastard right in half, it has many compound bends that inhibit you from being able to remove it any other way. Next, try and cut off as much above the 90 degree bend as possible, meaning try and leave the stub of the DP as straight as possible.

You SHOULD be able to now pull the old DP thru the bottom, past the firewall, and remove the V-band clamp holding the remaining DP to the turbo. This MIGHT stick a little, but a light tap with the old screw-driver-hammer routine will break it free. Just don't hit your turbo damnit!

More pictures!! The next few show you your nemisis. Study them, learn it well, you will notice it's weak point is a swift longitudinal cut across its breadth. I didn't even remove the insulation, let it all rot in hell!!

[scoutkid]

see the infamous DP in its natural habitat. In this picture you can also see where you will need to beat your firewall into submission. Don't worry, it holds up about as well as a one legged man in an ass kicking contest.

[scoutkid]

gonna be awefully hard to eat that corn with NO FAWKIN TEETH! Oddly enough, in the stomach of the beast, I found many baby DP's they were only weeks away from hatching, jesus, I caught it just in time! I smashed them all gleefully under the heel of my boot.

[scoutkid]

Here the old lay, in eternal slumber. Just a shadow of its former, fully restrictive self. Look at it, despise it. This my friends, is the enemy of the diesel.

[scoutkid]

So now you are sitting there tempted to see what your truck sounds like with no exhaust, i would not suggest doing this :D However now IS the time to form a game plan for installation of the new 'haust.

Back to when i mentioned 'clearancing' the fire wall... you will need to do this, and there are many methods. I myself tried to slide my DP in place, just so i could see where it would hit. Once noted, i whacked the shit out of it with a variety of tools until it had a nice concave shape. You don't have a lot of room to manuver up there, but you won't need it. The metal folds like a chair, that folds.... shit. You can also do this by making 2 slits with your sawzall in the appropriate places ( where ever you see an issue) and THEN whack the shit out of it with a variety of tools until it has a nice concave shape.

Slide your new DP into position, mine was a 2 piece unit, i would suggest getting one. VERY helpful. Loosely clamp it to the turbo, it will be the very last thing you fully tighten.

My kit also came with all new hangers, and they actually fit like they were supposed to! My truck is a long bed extra cab, but apparently they just send you the kit for the worst case scenario, which is a long bed crew cab... This meant a little 'custom trimming' of one of the straight runs. No big deal. I worked from the back to the front, as the 'real' directions made note to do. The pipes 'glide' into position and you will have NO problems getting them to line up.... :flipoff2:

This kit DOES delete the CAT, so watch out for emmisions stations! ( i have farm plates ;) ) Really though, if you can't get the pipes to line up from here, you really shouldn't be holding a sawzall to begin with...

Once you get every thing 'just so'. Tighten the nuts out of the clamps, if you don't skin a few knuckles then you haven't got them tight enough. VERY lastly, tighten down your V-band clamp, turn your truck on, check for leaks, fix them all, restraighten everything, retighten everything, check for leaks, fix them all, restraighten everything..... you get the picture.

picture time!

[scoutkid]

poser shot. It sticks out a little far for my taste, but i might get one of those 'sweet! I should'a spent the money on a good set of gauges' 5" annoying-as-shit-piss-off-the-neighbors-every-morning stainless steel tips :flipoff2: I will actually just cut it down a little when i get the chance.

Performance wise, VERY noticible throttal response increase! It truely does have a lot more poop thru the entire power band. More torque off the line and on the highway i can accelerate MUCH quicker. It's no 1000,00 HP or 500303 ft-lbs of torque, but man, it sure does lay the ground work for all that!!

The sound is great, it growls and the turbo whistles like satan himself. But doesn't make you want to shoot yourself like when you hear those damn 5" SS tips coming! :flipoff2:

Watch for my next month's intall: Scoutkid does Gauges!! Gauges pods too! :D feel free to PM for pics or what have you.

[texascadillac42]

Grab a Baldwin PA2818 (Napa 6637) air filter, 45 degree 4" exhaust elbow, a 4" ID turbo boot, and a couple of hose clamps and you have yourself a dirt cheap high flow air intake. Then you will really be able to hear that turbo whistle. Exhaust looks good. :smokin:

[scoutkid]

you mean like this?? :D :D

[Pooge]

very nice, and VERY entertaining write up...


Doug

[Lil Toe]

very nice, and VERY entertaining write up...


Doug

x2, though all I did was cuss when I cut my old DP out. But if you want a real fun project, take off the turbo to do the pedestal o-rings.

Too bad you'll have to change that DP again when you get an H2 :p

And it's the 5" exhaust with 6" tip that really PO's the neighbors :flipoff2:

[scoutkid]

x2, though all I did was cuss when I cut my old DP out. But if you want a real fun project, take off the turbo to do the pedestal o-rings.

Too bad you'll have to change that DP again when you get an H2 :p

And it's the 5" exhaust with 6" tip that really PO's the neighbors :flipoff2:


GAH! Why do you have to ruin my day?? It was going SOOOO well! Jerk. :flipoff2: Those are coming installments in a few months ;)

[texascadillac42]

you mean like this?? :D :D

Exactly. Looks good.

[scoutkid]

Exactly. Looks good.


Thanks, this was a pretty fun project. I am looking forward to the pain and suffering I get to deal with on future mods. God I'm a sick fawker. :shaking:

[Mohadeab]

And funny too...great job...I had no idea it was that bad..I'm not looking forward to this mod at all....maybe I'll pay someone to do it...or just take a lot more Zolofts...

[Mechanos]

Another reason I'm glad I bought a CTD. :flipoff2:

[scoutkid]

And funny too...great job...I had no idea it was that bad..I'm not looking forward to this mod at all....maybe I'll pay someone to do it...or just take a lot more Zolofts...



It really wasn't that bad. If you just don't sit there and piss around with it. Get to it with the sawzall and cut the wee out of every pipe possible. It helps if you don't take a lot of pictures in between too :flipoff2:

[CSP]

And funny too...great job...I had no idea it was that bad..I'm not looking forward to this mod at all....maybe I'll pay someone to do it...or just take a lot more Zolofts...

It's really not that bad. Cutting the downpipe from the top makes it much easier to remove (done it both ways). Long, as in 10", sawzall blades is the key.

Having the use of a porta power with a duckbill spreader makes clearancing the firewall a two minute job. It takes longer to get it into position than to bend it.


scoutkid are you going to go with an intercooler? That's my next project.

[rednck21]

scoutkid-why not use a k&n filter instead? are these napa filters cheap?? also where can i get a 4" turbo boot?


i installed a dp on my 95 a couple months ago.....WHAT A B*TCH :mad3: ...

....along with a dynomax muffler and 4" pipe....what a difference!

[scoutkid]

scoutkid-why not use a k&n filter instead? are these napa filters cheap?? also where can i get a 4" turbo boot?


i installed a dp on my 95 a couple months ago.....WHAT A B*TCH :mad3: ...

....along with a dynomax muffler and 4" pipe....what a difference!



k&n's have been known to give 'higher flow' because they have 'sucky filtration'. Check around on thedieselstop.com for more info there. This is not a cheap filter, its bigger than a milk jug, and runs between $45 and $50.


CSP: my order of projects will go something like this :

luk clutch and 1 piece flywheel done
intake done
exhaust done
gauges
CCV mod
intercooler (i already have the cooler and pipes)
6 pos twildman chip
H2e
big oil
better fuel
injectors

This should get me moving pretty good :D

[mlclark]

This is not a cheap filter, its bigger than a milk jug, and runs between $45 and $50.

Ouch. Tymar sells Baldwins for ~$20. www.tymarperformance.com

How much did the exhaust kit end up running you?

Michael

[scoutkid]

This is not a cheap filter, its bigger than a milk jug, and runs between $45 and $50.

Ouch. Tymar sells Baldwins for ~$20. www.tymarperformance.com

How much did the exhaust kit end up running you?

Michael

geeze! everything is about dollars and cents to you eh? :flipoff2: Still not a cheap filter, plus i would have the issuse with shipping and calling and what have you. I haven't seen any one on thediesel stop say they are only $20 from tymar, or i might have gotten one there. i thought i got what seemed like a good deal, about $42 or something.

On the exhaust, a lady never tells :flipoff2: Cause if i do i will get the 'well shit bill sells it for $98, you got FAWKED!' I paid as much as I thought it was worth, how about that? I wasn't in the mood to come up with my own, and i wanted an 'easy bolt in system' that deleted my cat at the same time, with 16 GA material. I wasn't willing to pay the price for stainless, but I also understand that I probably could have 'done it myself for cheaper' which i have about 0 interest in doing with an exhaust. :D

[Lil Toe]

Get the Outerwears cover for the filter, it's cheaper than one filter and extends the life quite a bit.

Your list of mods sounds good. If you want a little advice and you can take it for what its worth. I would do the intercooler and injectors next. Any kind of flowed injectors will kill the stock turbo quick, so an H2 would be the next upgrade.

As for the bigger fuel and oil pumps, I haven't done these yet and for the cost, I'm not sure I will. Before the H2 I dyno'd 300 hp, I figure with the H2 I should get 350. Most of what I hear on twin oil pumps is $2500-3800 (3800 for BTS), and one guy I know has the $2500 pair isn't sure they were worth it. I haven't made up my mind on the fuel yet, I do know that when the engine gets rebuilt (I'm pushing 205k) that it's going to get head studs.

Just a little background on my truck, it's a '97 CC 4x4 F350, I first did a Banks Powerpack (waste of money), then when I killed my tranny, I had a set of Hypermax Stage I's put in by BTS. After about 30k the stock turbo quit and I put the H2 and 5" exhuast on. It still runs good now, decent idle, and will still pull a trailer without melting anything. Anyway, just my $.02.

[scoutkid]

good info! I know i want to get as much hardware out of the way as possible so my chip can be burnt right the first time. i don't wanna have to send it back every time i do something.

I smell what you are stepping in, and might just do that :D thanks! Im not too convinced on the oil either, but i would like to change the fuel setup thats for sure, damn leaky fuel bowl! :flipoff2:

[mlclark]

geeze! everything is about dollars and cents to you eh? :flipoff2: Still not a cheap filter, plus i would have the issuse with shipping and calling and what have you.

Of course it is. Doesn't it all boil down to money in the end? :D Oops, there is that repressed economist gene rearing its ugly head again. As far as the filter, while even $20 is not cheap, the damn things last forever. Besides, Dale is a totally awesome guy to deal with. The Baldwin, and I assume the Napa filter too, will outflow the stock filter even when incased in dust. I do it, you do it, we all change it when it "looks" dirty. Trust me, they are still flowing way more than what the engine is using. Whatever you pay, it is cheap when compared to the overall life (or potential life) of the filter.

I paid as much as I thought it was worth, how about that?

Smart ass. :D

Michael

[rednck21]

the link above for tymar was not up yet.

[mlclark]

the link above for tymar was not up yet.

It never has been. I can't speak for Dale, but he is busy with the biz. It is just him and his wife running it out of their home. Just call him or email. He is super good about getting back to you. Email may take a while, but he will spend the time to talk with you.

Michael

[CSP]

The Baldwin, and I assume the Napa filter too, will outflow the stock filter even when incased in dust. I do it, you do it, we all change it when it "looks" dirty. Trust me, they are still flowing way more than what the engine is using. Whatever you pay, it is cheap when compared to the overall life (or potential life) of the filter.

The NAPA filters are Baldwin.

I'll disagree about them flowing more than the engine is using when dirty. Mine needing replacing recently and the engine was very choked down by it. I could feel it under a load and EGT's were hard to keep down at the same time. A new filter solved the problem. It didn't look too bad either (was far from encased in dust).

I mail order mine from an outfit in Albuquerque called WestFleet for $25 shipped to my door.

[mlclark]

The NAPA filters are Baldwin.

Cool. I did not know that or was not sure.

I'll disagree about them flowing more than the engine is using when dirty.

Not flowing more when dirty. (Now, THAT would be an awesome filter. More dirt, better flow.:D) But, it will out flow the stock filter out of the box and when given the same dirt load/time in use. (If the conditions are the same.) Yes, they can get dirty and of course they will need to be replaced, but...they are truly a superior filtering setup when compared to the stock box and even more so if your stock box was one of the faulty designs that flowed unfiltered air really well.

Michael