i searched got mixxed answers....

need a 60 front for my tj, looking for 66" wide drivers side drop, something i can put manual hubs on, gonna go hi steer, i think thats it.

what trucks to find them in im having a REALLY rough time finding a front axle. got the rears cheap as dirt just cant find a front and im not exactly sure what years and who had them.

thanks guy sounds like a newbie question but im just frustrated i need to line up a front axle cause my 44's are sold and ill need to pull them out soon, with warm weather coming i DONT Want downtime. if i can find the axle i can get on the phone with randy's and get crackin.

thanks guy :flipoff2: :rasta:

early ford is your best bet... (drivers side-hubs-king pin)

they are expensive everywhere 600-1200$ here (i can put you in touch with various people who have them for sale for $1200 + shipping)

damn for 1200 bucks that bitch better be geared and spooled already!!!!

ouchy

what shape are these things in. im used to grabbbin junkyard waggy's and having to rebuild EVERYTING, balljoints, new calipers and rotors, seals bearings, etc.

are these good axles or need rebuild?

Only driver side drop was in Ford.

Bonus is they're all RC - but they have the price tag to go with it.

1200 is from junk truck dealers in Dallas no they are just pull outs not locked and probably only 4.10 gears... after i heard the 1200$ i was less interested

You can get drivers side dropout of a newer 3500HD Chevy. We have them at work, I drool all the time. Fat chance finding one though.

I got mine from a Ford, RC60. I got it with rebuilt spindles and rebuilt king-pins, stock shafts with Mile Marker lockouts and solid-core spicer joints, and calipers for cores. $1250. Oh yeah, no carrier or R&P because I'm going 5.13 with Detroit. I still had to buy brakes and bearings for the hubs. But I think I got a good deal.

If you want that 60 front it's probably gonna cost what you sold your other axles for, I know mine did (and then some).

ok if the front is gonna cost me an arm and a leg and maybe my first born (if that ever happens i doubt it) i guess ill have to put off the atlas.

so 1 more question. the ujoint size is huge my plan was swap the axles put an atlas in then order shafts front and rear. is there a way to put a different yoke on the 60's for the time being to convert down to the tj tinny ass ujoint so i can run what i have for a month or 2?

You can get a 1310 (stock Jeep driveshaft u-joint) yoke for a 60 front. That's also what I have for now, also due to money constraints.

I also have found conversion u-joints. They are 1350 on one set of ears and 1310 on the other set. I run this in the rear with my 14 bolt, also due to those damn money constraints.

Don't forget steering. I'm running the stock tie rod for now and 1 hysteer arm with a custom drag-link. That's another solution due to money, but it solved steering for only $170 bucks

back up a second.
why do you want Dana 60's?
I have a friend with 4:1 low and a 383 TPI stroker going in his Jeep. he NEEDS 60s, and he should be fine with the new CTM joints in his 3/4 ton Dana 44.
you have a 4.0L engine, you might have 4.3:1 gearing if you swing the atlas.
Current u-joint developments for the Dana 44 have obsoleted a lot of the need for a dana 60 up front, and to be perfectly honest, you're going to need a serious reality check if you think you're gonna swing a finished product dana 60 front axle for a TJ for less than $2k. The service parts to rebuild the knuckles-out alone is over $250.
as an example, I once had a front dana 60 that I sold on ebay. IT was a RC model out of a 79 F350, housng only. It went for $650+shipping, and for that price (just at reserve) I was irritated to see it go, and the buyer was thrilled as hell to have gotten it for that cheap.

Originally posted by Sundowner
back up a second.
why do you want Dana 60's?

He needs D60's because the size of the street curbs are bigger where DP wheels at, 44's just won't cut it anymore :flipoff2:

hey,
those speed bumps can be murder.
espicially when loaded up with groceries at the local Piggly-Wiggly:flipoff2:

Current u-joint developments for the Dana 44 have obsoleted a lot of the need for a dana 60 up front

There are more factors involved in axle strength than just u-joints. I have seen 44 ball joints let go before while 60 kingpins held up perfectly.



you're going to need a serious reality check if you think you're gonna swing a finished product dana 60 front axle for a TJ for less than $2k

But I will definitely agree with you on that. Doing all the work at his shop my friend set up a HP60 with a lock-rite for his TJ. Total cost was around $2800 for parts (including the housing and cut down stock shafts, but with 5 on 5.5" BP)

I really hate to say it, but the only way you can possibly expect to see you Jeep on wheels this year is to whip out your creditcard, call Dynarape, Currie, Tri County Gear, Sunray, or Sam's and ORDER a set of Dana 60's for your Jeep. If oyu're lucky you might get them by June.
you've obvoisly done little research on your project, and if you put in on your credit card, you can at least walk away from this with a montly reminder to think ahead next time, and a running Jeep.

Do you think I could get away with a 44 up front if I go to a Big Block Mopar in my Flatty?

oh darn... sundowner you just have all the answers dont ya. too bad ive never turned a wrench on a jeep before or looked up any information on a 60 before. quick wheres the phone!!!!! :flipoff2:


hey i thought asking questions was research.


but i guess unfortunatly i have this pesky problem with doing things myself and the brain just gets in the way. so like everything else ill just wing it.

you're supposed to do the research BEFORE you sell the axles you were using.:flipoff2:
If you' planned on letting weeds grow under your frame, you shouldn't have biched about the downtime.

Are you going to set up the brackets yourself? (I'm guessing yes)

Are you going to construct the brackets yourself (I hope)?

I'm not positive but I think 60 brackets for a TJ are outrageously expensive unless you make them up yourself. I didn't think you would re-use you others because you sold your axles.

My 60 front will run about $2300 or so built. But that's for a YJ where the stock spring perches on the '79 housing were used.

Add brackets for your TJ and if you want 66" you'll need it cut down also. The sh@t will add up quick. I'd anticipate at least $3000-$3500. If you do it yourself you'll have to have fab time so that means down time since your axles are gone.

Right now my Jeep is on jackstands with nothing as I put together the suspension and axles. I like it. As long as you have a nice garage you'll just keep finding more and more to do while you build it.

My best guess is if you start right now you could have it done by May-Juneish.

I pulled mine from a 92,3 or4? Ford 1ton duallie, I see the RC's all the time. Shelled out a grand for it.
Had to convert it to single wheel type hubs (mid to late 80's Ford 3/4 or 1ton hub and rotors)

Look,
I realize I'm bieng a bit.. harsh.
buy you really need to stop, sit down, and do the math on this one. Prefferably with some people who've done it before.
If you had 44's the you're gonna need new wheels and tires to go on these axles, too.
and new steering
and new brakelines
and new driveshafts
and you're gonna need to toss at least $500 at that rear axle to get it usable for you.
I've seen this done before too many times by people who know just about everything there is to know about Jeeps.
expect this who thing to cost you between $5k-$6k and take 3-6 months.

yeah i know what your saying sundowner ive done this before... 3 months several grand.

i can have the rear axle built and under the jeep in less then a week right now if the parts i have to oder were in my hands. the rear is not an issue to me at the moment its the front i just need to find the "right" axle for the job. which was the POINT of the fawkin topic. not for you guys to preach to me about dynatrac and costs and downtime. see my version of downtime is different then yours. im not gonna fiddle and fart around for 6 months hemmin and haulin over things. pick a direction and run with it. i have no problem with putting in a 8-10 hour day at work then heading straight to the garage and working till dawn. hell hasnt been the first time ive done it.... did it for almost 3 months.

what im saying is give me some help on the search, i can spend weeks looking at stock truck axle configurations and whine and bitch or i can ask you guys what you have used what works best and go dig one up, tear the bitch down and roll with it.


now im gonna stop ranting cause yes i can take the flames i really dont care like everyone im just trying to make my life a lil easyer.

3-6 months? how slow do you work???????
Scott

While we've got your attention - explain to me how the new R&P was going to be $1000. What kind of gears did you grenade, and how long had they been in? 4 months?

DP you ever considered a D300 non flip? Then you can go to GM 60s which are usually cheaper.

And if you're going with an Atlas anyway, why not just have it built with a righthand front output so you can run a Chevy or Dodge front axle?

Am I missing something here? If you want to stay with a driver's drop, a Ford front is your only option.

My friend Blake found me one in a junkyard in Reno out of a mid-70s one-ton for $450. They're all about 69 inches wide, so plan on cutting. And plan on redoing the brakes if you want to run 15-inch rims.
Dion

And plan on redoing the brakes if you want to run 15-inch rims

That's not true at all. You just have to keep backspacing to a minimum and do a little ginding. Now there is definitely a loss of brake power with Ford dual piston calipers on a stock Jeep master cylinder, but that doesn't have chit to do with rim size:flipoff2:

Make sure you've done the swap before or are in the process of it before you tell him what will or won't work.

you're going to need a serious reality check if you think you're gonna swing a finished product dana 60 front axle for a TJ for less than $2k.

it cost me less then 1500.00$ RC FORD with brackets and all

dustpuppy dont listen to some of these guys you can find a 60 for the front keep it 8 lug and you will have no problems finding a rear. it cost me even less to put in a tera 60 with full floaters and disc brakes in the rear
:flipoff2:

dude screw that narrow shit get full width and ill hook you up with some hummer wheels:smokin: beadlocked and all dirt cheap...
save on cutting have 35 splined front and rear and your laughing:D
the brackets at RE are not that expensiveget in touch with me i can hook you up large with RE and TERA SHIT if ya want...

Originally posted by Dust Puppy
i searched got mixxed answers....

need a 60 front for my tj, looking for 66" wide drivers side drop, something i can put manual hubs on, gonna go hi steer, i think thats it.

what trucks to find them in im having a REALLY rough time finding a front axle. got the rears cheap as dirt just cant find a front and im not exactly sure what years and who had them.

thanks guy sounds like a newbie question but im just frustrated i need to line up a front axle cause my 44's are sold and ill need to pull them out soon, with warm weather coming i DONT Want downtime. if i can find the axle i can get on the phone with randy's and get crackin.

thanks guy :flipoff2: :rasta:

DP, I could be wrong but I thought that Warn made manual hub conversion kits for the '94 and newer Dodge Rams' (drivers side diff). If they do, you should be able to use the D60 out of the 3/4ton Rams, or pick up the 1ton (dually) and convert it. Might be worth a shot...:D :D Bret

Originally posted by bigdude


That's not true at all. You just have to keep backspacing to a minimum and do a little ginding. Now there is definitely a loss of brake power with Ford dual piston calipers on a stock Jeep master cylinder, but that doesn't have chit to do with rim size:flipoff2:

Make sure you've done the swap before or are in the process of it before you tell him what will or won't work.

Thanks for the insight ... I am in the process of doing the same swap. I made a reasonable assumption after READING his post that he wouldn't want a crazy offset rim. Since he's concerned about overall width, I made a vast leap in logic that he'd want to use a more "normal" backspaced rim.

To do so, he'll need to address the Ford brakes.
Dion

save on cutting have 35 splined front and rear and your laughing

Why would he go 35 spline in the rear? He's perfectly happy with 30 spliners! :D

well he will prolly have to build a rear unless he is able to find the same width so if he doesnt and he has to get shafts done might as well do 35splines for 300$ a pair that is the wise thing to do
no?

i don't know if i where to build 60's might as well go all out
do it once and be done

exactly what i am in the midst of :rolleyes:

guys

i dont care about the width. just trying to match up the rear ive got. im gonna run 66" wide rear ff 60 with 15x10's 3.5" bs its gonna be a wide bitch. i dont care

Since he's concerned about overall width, I made a vast leap in logic that he'd want to use a more "normal" backspaced rim.

i dont care about the width

You stand corrected:flipoff2:

Now seriously, a ford is your best bet. You can fit 3.5" BS 15" rim on it, but you will have to grind calipers.

I do not think that the difference from a 69" front and 66" rear will be noticeable or hinder your rig by any means. That is probably the closest match you are going to find. I personally have 67" rear and 69" front and know many others that do. You can't tell. It's a good match.

And your right, it will be a wide bitch. But that's good

Ford all the way. Won't hurt to go a little wider out front, in fact it's desireable. The king pin style knuckles make it easy to go high steer. and, are qwicker and easier to trail-fix "if" you break one.
Screw converting to pass.side drop, just go Ford. Like I said, finding a high pinion 60 out a 1 ton duallie isn't that hard.

$1200 BUCKS THAT IS REALLY THE GOING RATE A A HP60! IF YOU FIND THEM FOR LESS i WILL BUY WHAT YOU FIND AS LONG AS THEY ARE OPEN KNUCKLES! gOOD LUCK ON THAT I HAVE TWO AND i WILL NOT PART!!! i GOT one for $400 and the other for $600 but I did kno wthe guy!!!! I know where there is another on and I will have it for sale if i can get the right price on it!

Originally posted by Oxjockey
While we've got your attention - explain to me how the new R&P was going to be $1000. What kind of gears did you grenade, and how long had they been in? 4 months?

Dude, you can keep ignoring my questions, but I'll keep asking.

BTW, I noticed that it took you roughly 4 months to get the D44s installed F&R, why are you so confident that this will take less time? And that time you did your research before it was on jackstands...

Bryan