My '76 FJ-40 needs new headers, pipe, and muffler.
I'm leaning toward SOR or Man-A-Free:

$285 complete system
http://www.man-a-fre.com/perfacc.html#headers

$400 complete system
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat324.tam?xax=4353&anchor=#324-40

Any other recommendations? I don't need the best out there, just something that is decent quality. The Man-A-Fre bolt on system is appealing because my friend and I can install it.

Anyone in Colorado with advice on a shop that sells headers?

I have been into 6 cylinder hop up for years, My personal favorite is Clifford Research 6=8 header available in two formats one for top end, one for low end grunt. If you have the six in your jeep I think that this header will work for you. It worked fine on an old 79 CJ5 I used to have. Also the price is affordable!
Good luck
Mike :fj: :jeep2:

I have used the Man-A-Fre kit on my FJ40 and I have a set on my FJ55. Had no problems with them...There exhaust kit also worked well on the FJ40. Fit well and lasted in New England weather for years...

Most of the Muffler "kits" that I have seen use really thin wall tubing. Plus they are designed to fit multiple applications.. i.e. F, 2F, three speed or what have you... They best fitting system is the one that you have custom bent.. that way it fits above the skidplate and exits where you want it to.. I do not suggest that you have it exit in front of the rear drivers side tire....
Your best bet is to just get a good header. I like the Tri-Y header myself. Get the thickest flange you can, then make sure that you mill it to the same thickness as your intake manifold.. That will keep the gaskets from blowing out...
The 6 into 1 old school headers are usually not made as well. I had one. Never again. My downey (sic) 3 into 2 into 1 has lasted for 12 years. never once had a problem with it...

I have the system you are looking at from Specter. On my 68 it all bolted together, everything is included. Tail pipe exits in stock location, muffler is stock Toyota and mounts in the stock location, way up inside the frame rail. A real live bolt on system. The early models will also run above the skid plate, don't know about later ones. I'd call to be sure, if not, go the local muffler shop route and make sure it does. Find one that has a clue, usually and older muffler guy will do a much better job, and have more experience.

The only quirks are:
With a MAF shackle reversal, the rear (of the front spring) hanger and shackle are very close to the header pipe. Won't be a problem in stock configuration.

If you move your axle back (flip rear springs) the tailpipe will get eaten by tires 35" or bigger. Minor mod fixed this.

Also when installing the clamps, the nuts will almost surely be on the bottom and some of the ubolt will be hanging down. Cut these off a thread or 2 from the nut. Only takes one time bumping it with your noggin to regret this omission.

Don't expect huge performance gains from your tractor motor either. Unless you combine several mods you may only gain some peace and quiet.

Every 6-1 header I have removed from Cruisers had a warped flange, and was leaking badly. One couldn't be silenced with 2 gaskets! I'll pass on them in the future, choosing a stock exhaust manifold every time.