I know every buddy doing the 52s in the front is moving the springs mounts foward 4'' s to get the axel 2''s ahead to clear the rear wheel well, but I am only running 36s and plan on running 8'' rear shackles and 4 degree shims so i will have around 5'' s of lift and I have aready trimmed the fenders quite a bit.
here is were the opinion comes in do i really need to move them the full 4'' s or can i get away with the 2'' and keep the stock location with out any problems
I dont know will I be able to stuff them that far? am I going to get that much flex ? I will move it 4'' s if it will flex that much. thanks for your help :confused:

It's easier to move the bracket 4" forward and use a zero-rate to locate your axle where you want it.

the front hanger has a bolt in location 4" forward. to move it 2" you have to fab a bit more.

if I go 4'' s then I have to build a bumper right !?

Move it the 4", I thought about only moving it 2" or using zero rates to bring the axle back, but instead I just moved the hanger 4" and the axle 2" and when I was all finished I was happy I did it that way. I clear 40"s with only minor trimming to the front of the fender and I beleive with some more trimming I will clear my new 45"s. Looking at the truck you can hardly notice the axle is moved forward, usually I have to tell people, most people don't pick it out on their own. It gave me just enough room for my crossover and hi-steer setup without having to make a whole new engine crossmember. Finally it noticably improved the trucks approach angle as well as giving me a better front drive shaft angle.

P.S. I used 8 degree wedges.

Can't you move the front hanger about 2" forward to right under the body mount? As in the factory location for the 1st gens?

If you want bolt up. The hanger needs to go right infront of the body mount. There are pics of this setup done on mine in my signature.

If you want bolt up. The hanger needs to go right infront of the body mount. There are pics of this setup done on mine in my signature.

So the spacing of the bolt holes on the spring hanger are not the same as the spacing of the bolt holes on the body mount? I always had assumed they were (I have a 1st gen so I've never measured it).

Edit:
And if you put the spring hanger on right under the body mount you should be able to keep the stock shackle mount and still have a good (or at least better) shackle angle...

if I go 4'' s then I have to build a bumper right !?
I ran both stock and tube bumpers after my swap. With a little trimming & some creativity, all things are possible :grinpimp:

8 degree shims thanks and I guess I will just to have to build a bumper

I didnt see this post, but I posted the same thing on Coloradok5.com
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148490

Move it the 4", I thought about only moving it 2" or using zero rates to bring the axle back, but instead I just moved the hanger 4" and the axle 2" and when I was all finished I was happy I did it that way. I clear 40"s with only minor trimming to the front of the fender and I beleive with some more trimming I will clear my new 45"s. Looking at the truck you can hardly notice the axle is moved forward, usually I have to tell people, most people don't pick it out on their own. It gave me just enough room for my crossover and hi-steer setup without having to make a whole new engine crossmember. Finally it noticably improved the trucks approach angle as well as giving me a better front drive shaft angle.

P.S. I used 8 degree wedges.

Sorry for the hyjack but still on the same subject. I have done my research on the 52" front spring swap but have rejected it because I have hysteer. So my question to you is "how did you get the hysteer to work without the draglink and the tie rod being crossed up and hitting on full compression?" If you moved the steering box forward, how? Any pics?

thats a good point didnt think of my high steer that would change the angle to a partly front to back thing

I would like to know the same thing too. I have highsteer and I am trying to figure if I can get away with it. I dont want to do something else with my steering as I just bought the damn kit from ord. I was planning on zero rating my axle 1.5 inches back. Is that enough to allow my draglink not kiss my tierod. And also will that create a problem with my firewall when I flex some 42's?

Sorry for the hyjack but still on the same subject. I have done my research on the 52" front spring swap but have rejected it because I have hysteer. So my question to you is "how did you get the hysteer to work without the draglink and the tie rod being crossed up and hitting on full compression?" If you moved the steering box forward, how? Any pics?

I put the drag link infront of the axle and the tierod is stashed nice and safe in behind the axle. I made my own steering arms too, a single facing back on the drivers side and a double ended arm on the passenger side. I have some pics around, PM me your email addy.

I put the drag link infront of the axle and the tierod is stashed nice and safe in behind the axle. I made my own steering arms too, a single facing back on the drivers side and a double ended arm on the passenger side. I have some pics around, PM me your email addy.

PM'd ya :beer: