Im going to be a making a trip out to the wreck yard a hours drive away so i need to ask some questions.
A] is there a steering shaft that i can pull out of some vehicle that i can cut down and use for my PS converstion? it seems like there MUST be SOMEthing out there that has one you can use. also, in all the write up i read about PS swaps, everyone seems to stress the importance of using spicer or even custom made racing components to be safe, but the box i have has a rag joint on it, so it doesnt seem like you need to have top grade stuff... which brings me to my next question

B] can you use a 3 bolt saginaw box? i have a 3 bolt of a blazer i think, that i was planning on useing, does it have to be a 4 bolt? im not sure of the lock to lock on the box i have, but thats the only factor i could think of...

C] do you have to get a york to run onboard air? i'll be picking up the brakets and pulleys for a 350 serpentine belt and i'm wondering why i cant just use the AC compressor i get off the donor engine. it might not be as high output as the york, but thats ok, just takes longer to fill the tank.

Thanks in advance..
Matt:skull:

you can use a three bolt, it's just not quite as strong, but i've had no problems with mine.

don't know about the shaft, we made mine with u joints from some little jap car and the shaft from a easy go cart.

rotary compressors can be run, just add a "t" so you can add oil inline. there's a write up of it somewhere, but i don't remember where (try woody's site, but it might even be here).

i would use the 4 bolt 4.5 turn saginaw box. 3 bolts can and will break (i've seen a 4 bolt unit break on a rig with 35's) (and a 3 turn is pretty scary on the freeway; instant lane changes)
i have a few extra ps plate kits if you need one.
the box you need is used in mid 70's passenger cars. it bolts to the inside of the frame. a box from a blazer(or any other PU) mounts to the outside of the frame and will not work.
most 70s wagoneers have the proper box as well.
:smokin:

[i]C] do you have to get a york to run onboard air? it might not be as high output as the york, but thats ok, just takes longer to fill the tank.

Thanks in advance..
Matt:skull: [/B]

No, you can use any A/C compressor, but since most of the GM ones are radial designs (Harrison, Delco A6, Sanden) and don't have an oil sump, you will have to lubricate it by putting a few drops of oil in the inlet before you use it. They all have roughly the same output.

I used a rag joint the first time I built my steering shaft (why not, it was good enough for GM). I was camping with my family in eastern Washington, hooked up my 18' trailer to the FJ and heard a "clunk" while manouvering out of the trees. A quick check by myself and a buddy found nothing, and we couldn't repeat the noise. So I drove home about 100 miles. Went over Blewett Pass (2 lane winding 50 mph) and Snoqualmie Pass (4 lane 70 mph). When I got home and was turning into my driveway, the steering shaft TOTALLY separated. I couldn't even get off the street. Had to unhook the trailer and turn the input shaft by hand to get the FJ into the driveway. Now has greaseable u-joint installed.

I used the steering column for a 73 full size GM car and used the shaft from the column to the box ( modified with u joint ). Had to tell the welder it was for "farm equipment" so there was no liability issue with his welding. He had to coach me into saying that (I was a little slow:D ) When I first said it was for my truck, he said no. When I said I would do it myself, he decided he drives the same roads as I do, and told me what to say.
:rolleyes:

David:usa:

I currently run a 3-bolt box. Turns pretty quick & can be scary at higher speeds so I'm gonna get rid of it.

I pulled a 4-bolt, 4-turn box off of a '66 Buick Special at the Pick&Pull a month ago.

Just go to the junkyard & start cranking the steering wheels in the 60's & 70's GM junk. You'll find one.

Thanks for the info guys
i didn't plan on using a rag joint, i just didnt see why everyone says to use racing grade stuff if factory used rag joints. i plan on using napa yokes an joints.

i guess i'll look for the 4 bolt box, sigh :rolleyes:

thanks again for the info guys
Matt:skull:

4 bolt 4.25 turn was hard to find here and they wanted $50-80
at junk yards for one that looked pretty rough, the rebuild costs $150. Checker wanted $200 for rebuilt 4 bolt 4.25 turn with the
"76" on the casing (supposed to be stronger internals?) from a '78 Camaro. So it was the same money and has lifetime warranty