I am going to go look at a crashed Grand. It has the V8 with an Auto and I think it is like a 94. Anyone know if the autos in the Grand Cherokees would be durable enough to put in my Cj7 with D60s 5.13s, 4:1 and 40" tires?? I am pretty sure I am going to put the motor in it either way, just wasnt sure what tranny options I might have.

:smokin:

Depends on your definition of durable. If you mean strong, yes. If you mean reliable, no. They have a bad rep for taking a dump. My grand is on her 2nd trans, the first replaced under warranty, and was rebuilt at about 90k miles. Jeep has 180k now and although the trans acts up its still drivable and I'll probably just rebuild it again when I tear into her. :smokin:

So like it sucks or what?????






:smokin: <==== Siggaweed

Na, they don't suck, they're just real quirky. I'd get it if you can get it for cheap, but might need to be rebuilt.

Rebuild it with good parts, and a Trans Go Shift kit. Thats a 727 based OD trans

does any one have a way of adapting these to a dana 300

Probably. I would think AA or Novak could do it.

a d300 will bolt up as long as it is a v8 trans (42re or 46re)
output should be 23 spline but the input on the t-case will not reach the inner seal on the trans ( leak!!!!)

the trans is a 727 with an overdrive setup attached to the end. (not exactly but close)

the more you gear the axles the easier it becomes on everything upstream (d-shaft, trans) because the loading is reduced by the lower gear ratio

Bradford

The 94 ZJ's with the V8 had the 46RH which is the hydraulic version of the 46RE so it's not computer controlled like the newer ones. Shifting isn't as precise but the 46RH seems to have a better track record than the 1995+ ZJ auto's.

i will let green head know he is out of town for the week thanks for the info

it seems that the only reliable auto in a jeep was and will always be the AW4 in the XJ's

those chrysler autos in the grands suck ass, from what i gather from one of my master techs, they overheat the fluid really easily and the o-rings and seals go, get a huge cooler

the 46RH is plenty durable, and strong. just needs to be kept up with fluid changes and a big cooler. why do you think dodge ran them behind their v8 trucks and van's.

its the poor overdrive fluid flow that ends up hurting them. I want to run one on my crawler project, but it wont hardly (if ever) see overdrive as it wont be getting driven on the street.

93-95 zj v8 = 46rh
96-98 zj 5.2 = 44re
98 zj 5.8 = 46re

Dodge did use them in their trucks, I don't know about vans but the 5.2 trucks used the 46rh and the 5.9 used the 47rh. Don't have a clue on the years though.

I've fought a neverending battle with my 46rh and fluid related design flaws sound like a good prognosis to me. :grinpimp:

The problem with the Chryco trans is two fold...First, poor fluid flow, which is also lubricant and coolant. Second is super slow shifts which burn the clutches, fluid and seals.

The trans go shift kit fixes most of these problems. You can drill out the mainshaft to increse fluid flow to the OD unit

I was told today that the trans should bolt up to my D300. I didnt hear anything about the input length / sealing issue. I will check into that some more. Is there a solution to this?? I think they make an after market seal which will work. Maybe the same one I ned because of my clocking ring..??.. Anyone know?? Keep the good info coming. So I need a big cooler, change the fluid regularly and I wont be using the OD either. I dont drive this thing on the road much at all especially at over drive speeds.

if your ZJ has a hydraulic and non electronic trans, why not just put a 727 in it if you aren't going to need the overdrive?

if your ZJ has a hydraulic and non electronic trans, why not just put a 727 in it if you aren't going to need the overdrive?

x2. you can get a good rebuilt 727 from a reputable place for pretty cheap.

they dont have a spot for the crank position sensor :flipoff2: but that might be fixable if i had both at the same time to look at, or a shop knew what they were doing.

i do <3 the 727 though, so much simpler.

Its easier to adapt the Magnum V8 engines crank sensor than it is to adapt the one on the 4.0. On the V8s, the sensor actuall bolts to the block, the trans is only notched for clearance around the sensor.

727 is a good choice if you dont need the OD. All the Dodge versions I have seen have a long tailhousing. Maybe there is one shorter??

I've run the 5.2 and 46rh out of a 94 in my cj7 for 5 years with no problems. slap in a transgo kit and a big cooler and call it good. while you have the pan off add in a drain plug and temp sender.

it'll bolt straight to the d300. order up one of go2guys clocking rings and get that beotch FLAT. twin the 300 while you're at it.

super easy motor to wire in. only 4-5 wires.

i straight up LOVE the 5.2 with 5.89's on 37's :smokin:

http://www.dana60.com/sceep/jeep/MVC-016S.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sceep/jeep/belly2.JPG

it'll bolt straight to the d300. order up one of go2guys clocking rings and get that beotch FLAT. twin the 300 while you're at it.



Already done all that yo. I have a clocking ring, not sure which one it is now, but I was wondering if the input shaft is going to be long enough. Someone earlier said that it was already on the short side and the seal was an issue. Isnt my clocking ring going to make it even worse?? I take it sceep didnt have to do anything special to make it all work... Just bolt er up huh??

a d300 will bolt up as long as it is a v8 trans (42re or 46re)
output should be 23 spline but the input on the t-case will not reach the inner seal on the trans ( leak!!!!)

Bradford


Right here ^

Ohh and the 727 could be an option. Dont know much about these autos...... I aint wantin to b fawkin around with no weak trans...