Ok so I'm like the last one on the board to get a wristed arm, but mines done and INSTALLED.......WHOOO HOOOOO!!!!

Had to install it between PNW rain showers, but it was worth it. My bronco handles just fine without the pin. The ride seems a little softer, but I can't really tell it's not pinned. Off road, OTH, it's definately way better, but we knew that already. I tried to take a pic, but its dark.

You can see all the destruction photo's here:

http://broncoii4x4.dynu.com/wristedarm/wristedarm.htm

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/wristedi.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/wristedm.jpg

Uh, dude.....hate to burst your bubble but you're not the last one to get one, 'cause I dont' have one yet:crybaby2: :crybaby2: :crybaby2: :crybaby2:

Looks good, nice job :flipoff2:

Eric

Yup, still waiting to do mine as well...

yeah, and some of us havent even finnished the SAS yet. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by tiessen
Yup, still waiting to do mine as well...

Do you have a spare arm?

Originally posted by bsumner
yeah, and some of us havent even finnished the SAS yet. :rolleyes:

are you implying that you started it? :flipoff2:

Waiting for mine as well.:flipoff2:

Cool, but i think you picked about the uglest hitch pin, it looked like you welded a J hook to it, i was wondering what it was! :P

I didn't pick out shit, I stole it from our Heep :D Hell I don't think I'm going to use it. I haven't driven it much yet, but it seems to handle fine on the street. Got the 9012's set on 4.

The added flex definately makes my bronco feel more stable off road. It was noticably better. Kinda hard to explain.

Ok, I'm very happy!:D:D

I can't see a TTB ever offering as much stability as a solid axle. It's wierd how stable my bronco is now. Things should really get interesting once the rear gets dial in. To think guys are dumping thousands into 4 and 5 link setups to get similar flex that we spend $30 on ha ha ha ha ha.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/wristedflex1.jpg

Originally posted by Nobody
The added flex definately makes my bronco feel more stable off road. It was noticably better. Kinda hard to explain.

It's like it's not fighting you now, right?


That flex looks pretty wild Matt! Great job. :smokin:

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon


It's like it's not fighting you now, right?



Not only is it not fighting me, it seems to be helping. Everything is so much smoother. Paul I can definately say you need to toss your TTB. You can probably profit from a 44 swap.

BTW, I was going to ask what you're running in the rear? You seem to have plenty of rear flex. When I install my 60, I'm going to be working on the rear suspension as well.

I am running the Old Man Emu 2" lift Explorer (pn OME-36) springs in the rear. I can't say enough good things about these springs! They are awsome and have a great ride on the road too. :smokin:

I will eventually lose the TTB but right now I don't have anywhere to work on it. I really want to get the Willys done or at least a good start on it before I do any more on the Explorer. I will most likely be running a D44 in the front of that so maybe I'll find two. :)

Originally posted by Nobody


Do you have a spare arm?

Yup, just need to find the time to do it. I just moved into a new house and I got lot's o'work to do.

It'll be a summer project.

Cheers
Dale

ps. Let's wheel soon.

So are you running a block? How much do the springs cost? Are exploder springs the same as bronco II/ ranger? Are we going wheeling this weekend? Have I asked enough questions?

Originally posted by tiessen


Yup, just need to find the time to do it. I just moved into a new house and I got lot's o'work to do.

It'll be a summer project.

Cheers
Dale

ps. Let's wheel soon.

I'm almost always up for a trip through walker. I think EBSteve and I might be going on Sunday. I just ran walker saturday in the snow, that was pretty fun. I'm not really up for commuting very far right now, cuz I'm a poor bastard.

My club is going to run Walker on Sunday. I won't be able to go though. :(

You have your own club now? SMoA?? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Nobody
You have your own club now? :flipoff2:

Yeah and I am about to beat you with it... LMAO :flipoff2: What the hell is a SMoA?? :confused:

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon


What the hell is a SMoA?? :confused:

:usa: Soccer Moms of Americia :usa:

Guess I goofed though cuz your a Canadian, but you get the idea :flipoff2:

Who's going wheelin on sunday?

I'm not sure. Our meeting is tomorrow. I'll let you know.

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon
My club is going to run Walker on Sunday. I won't be able to go though. :(

When are you going to be able to go? Also what time will your club be hitting the trail? I hope you start feeling better soon.

Soccer Moms of America =
SMoCa= Soccer Moms of Canada a
As always the a has no meaning but Paul always has to tack it in on the end. LOL

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Nobody
[B]Ok, I'm very happy!:D:D

I can't see a TTB ever offering as much stability as a solid axle. It's wierd how stable my bronco is now. Things should really get interesting once the rear gets dial in. To think guys are dumping thousands into 4 and 5 link setups to get similar flex that we spend $30 on ha ha ha ha ha.

"dumping thousands"???

i have $470 bucks in a front 5 link. there is more to gain from a link set up than just flex.
look here.
http://www.broncohio.com/tech/fourlink.html

steelman

Nice job on the arm Nobody. :D I was wondering what rod you used to weld the plate to the arm? Did you pre-heat the arm before welding? How long do you think the arm will last with just a bolt?

I wonder, others who have the bolt style, if they have noticed any wear? I have had my wristed arm for about 2 years now, and the gentleman that built it used a spherical bearing from a tractor shop and it's wearing out.

I thought about making my own this time and using the same style as yours. Is that bolt you used greaseable? How do you lube the pivot point?

I know lots of questions, just want to be safe! Thanks in advance!

Pics of my arm
http://broncosport.alloffroad.com/cgi-bin/i/Suspension/P6160004.JPG

Originally posted by Nobody


are you implying that you started it? :flipoff2:


oh yeah, i guess your right. didnt quite word that right. i still have my lowly ttb on it now :rolleyes: so i'm still collecting the parts. come may i will be starting, that is after i put my new engine in.

how the hell did you fit 9012's on the back of your b2?? and how much lift did it take?

Originally posted by bsumner
how the hell did you fit 9012's on the back of your b2?? and how much lift did it take?


Damn I was trying to figure out where you got the idea I had 9012's in the rear. Up above I mentioned the fronts were set on 4. 1 being the softest, 5 hardest. I think that's where the confusion was.

For now rear is still bone stock. I'm reluctant to relocate shock mounts etc, cuz I plan on selling my 7.5". When I can afford to swap in the D60, I'll be tweaking the rear suspension. I'm looking at all my options now. Hopefully it will be done at the end of summer. I do plan on cutting holes in the bed and making custom rear shock mounts. At this point I think I'll be staying with leafs though.

What motor are you going to run?

Originally posted by Motoman
Nice job on the arm Nobody. :D I was wondering what rod you used to weld the plate to the arm? Did you pre-heat the arm before welding? How long do you think the arm will last with just a bolt?

I wonder, others who have the bolt style, if they have noticed any wear? I have had my wristed arm for about 2 years now, and the gentleman that built it used a spherical bearing from a tractor shop and it's wearing out.

I thought about making my own this time and using the same style as yours. Is that bolt you used greaseable? How do you lube the pivot point?

I know lots of questions, just want to be safe! Thanks in advance!

Pics of my arm
http://broncosport.alloffroad.com/cgi-bin/i/Suspension/P6160004.JPG

Thanks!

I have a lot of 7014 rod, so that's what I used. I didn't do any preheating and I made multiple short passes. I'm not pro at welding, but I can lay a decent bead, and I've never had anything break.

I used a 7/8 bolt and did not make it greasable. I thought about it though. This was only my first arm. I might try to get fancy on the next one. I have no idea how long it will last. I know there are a lot of guys running them, and I haven't heard any complaints. When the arm is pinned, they don't move at all, so they won't wear at all. Offroad they really only move a little bit. I think think it will last a long time. I'll definately be keeping any eye on it though.

Your arm looks good, the only thing I would change would be the location of the locking pin

I was just thinking about shackle bolts. They run through a metal sleeve and most are not greaseable....I would think they have a similar load and range of movement compared to a wristed arm. I've never seen one wear out. The same goes for the trackbar.

Anyway, I'm new to this wristed arm stuff, so I'm probably the wrong person to be asking. This topic has been discussed a lot though. So if you do search you'll find plenty of info. Some of us are working on compiliing all the data into one location.

Originally posted by Nobody



Damn I was trying to figure out where you got the idea I had 9012's in the rear. Up above I mentioned the fronts were set on 4. 1 being the softest, 5 hardest. I think that's where the confusion was.

For now rear is still bone stock. I'm reluctant to relocate shock mounts etc, cuz I plan on selling my 7.5". When I can afford to swap in the D60, I'll be tweaking the rear suspension. I'm looking at all my options now. Hopefully it will be done at the end of summer. I do plan on cutting holes in the bed and making custom rear shock mounts. At this point I think I'll be staying with leafs though.

What motor are you going to run?

yep, that exactly where the confusion came up. i thought you said you had a set OF 4. which i just assumed was front and rear pairs. my fault. :rolleyes:

yeah, i've been laying under there measuring and i'm thinking its going to be about impossible to fit 9012's under there without cutting the floor. i mean now i'm sitting on a duff add-a-leaf and i'm probably going to go a bit higher so i can clear 36's with maximum trimming. its pretty difficult to get a decent angle on the shocks, the more vertical you get, the shorter the shock gets. so i'll probably end up throwing some kind of custom mount under there and putting on whatever fits my lengths.

i'm also going with a slightly modified 4.0L engine. its basicly got about everything short of a rebuild and cam. should be plenty to turn d44/9" with 36's and 4.88's. at least for a daily driver. :D

I think you'll be happy with the 4.0L. The 2.8 & 2.9 just don't quite cut it.

I prefer my shocks to be as vertical as possible. I think it offers more stability that way.

I When I redo the rear of my bronco, I'm going to build new shackle hangers, which will drop the shacke a good 4", and run a slightly longer shackle. Most likely homade or something I find in a yard. I'm going to look for an OEM spring to avoid buying spendy aftermarket springs. Possibly a stock BII spring. Something longer if I can find it. My goal is to get the leaf sping as flat as possible and still provide the needed lift. I'm also going to look for a spring that will place the axle further back.

I was talking to a friend the other day, and he suggested flipping my springs around, which would move the axle back 4 or 5". There may be some issues with the gas tank though. I haven't looked that close yet, but it's something you may want to look into.

So, hey Matt........if I mail ya an arm can ya hook me up for a nominal fee?

My welder won't go that thick....and I will pay ya....
Gimme a shout...

Jay

yeah, i was thinking the same thing on the shocks, as vertical as possible. since its my DD for now i will probably end up going a little more vertical with custom extended mounts to get a little more length because of a 2" body lift and with both shocks pointing tops to the rear, instead of the flip-flop stock design. in order to get the necessary lift i'm looking for my ideas were to keep the add-a-leaf, then 2" body lift and put on some kind of extended shackle. then of course cut the body as much as it can go.

i looked a little while i was pre-measuring shock lengths, and if you move the rear axle backwards any, you will need to compensate with about 3" or so of lift to clear the gas tank skid plate. i also was tempted to extend my wheelbase a few inches by moving that axle back, but at this time, i'd rather not go through the hassle. now if you relocated that gas tank to your bed, you'd be golden!

you ever thought about trying a EB leaf pack? they should be the same width. i have no idea about length though. they might be a little stiff for a chop top b2 though. never know though, just a thought.

let me know if you happen to find out anything on a shackle setup. i've been looking around allready, havent found much. supposedly you could use a chevy belltech drop shackle to get a few inches. Hix also has some guy he knows that makes custom ones, but it doesnt look like anything will work out there though. if you end up making something, i might be interested in throwing a few bucks your way for a set for me too.

Originally posted by pavelow
So, hey Matt........if I mail ya an arm can ya hook me up for a nominal fee?


interesting... if your interesting in making one, i might be interested in tossing in one too... just thinking two at once might be easier then two seperately... just a thought. :D :D

PM'd you Pavelow and Bsummer:usa: :usa: