I need to get some bumpstops put on this damn thing before I head out for my wheel-a-thon across 10 states in 3 weeks. Did some measuring tonight and I have 11" between the bottom of the frame and u-bolt plate on the axle on both the front and the rear of the truck (how did that happen :flipoff2: ). I also have about 4" of up travel before the shocks bottom out on both the front and rear (WTF.... how did that happen..... again). I'm looking at using some bumpstops from Energy Suspension, part # 9.9109 (http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/bsp2.html). They are 2.5" tall, 4.5" long and 2.5" wide. 11 - 4 - 2.5 = 4.5 so I guess I'll make the drop brackets 5" long (0.5" longer to account for some squish factor in the bumpstomps).

With all the hours I've been putting in on this thing lately and all the brain cells that got sacrificed to the demonic Herculiner gods, everything's getting kind of fuzzy. Somebody double check my logic, please......

Sounds like you need to refab some shock mounts. :D:D

Make sure whatever your drop brackets are, they're fairly stout.. 2x2x.120 bends.. or was it .188? 2x2x.250 hasn't thus far. :D

Of course, that was with the square tube laying on it's side, and I didn't cap the ends - and this was on the trail rig that doesn't get routinely launched through the air.

Yeah, I need to do some thing else with the shock mounts.... but that's not going to happen by next Monday. So for now, the lowered bumpstops are a band-aid. I was thinking of using some leftover 2" x .120 wall round tube I have laying around. Standing on end, of course and gusseted to the frame.

I do have some 1.5" x 0.5 wall DOM laying around as well.... pretty sure that wouldn't bend. :flipoff2:

Go with the 2", and just weld it to the frame.


Or if you have time, do a quick re-do on your shock mounts. I don't even run bump stops on my truck, the springs stop it before that. Hard landings can limit the shocks out in the back, but luckily its just about to the point were the springs want it to stop anyway.

No can do on the re-do...... there just isn't enough time left before I leave. The way the shocks are set up now in the rear, I get a little over 4" uptravel at the spring. When articulated, 4" uptravel at the spring translates to ~9" uptravel at the tire and ~13" downtravel at the opposite tire.

The reason I need to limit the uptravel at the front is to keep the tie-rod/drag link out of the oil pan. My front axle is about 3" forward from stock and has high-steer.

With the shock bottomed out, the rear spring is just starting to go negative arch. You can see the distance between the frame rail and the axle.
http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/P0002865a.jpg

Very crappy dark picture of rear stuffage
http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/P0002866a.jpg
If you're trying to judge things by where the tire is in the wheel opening, keep in mind that the front of the wheel well was trimmed, the wheel well was stretched 3" from centerline towards the rear, and the axle has been moved about 1" rearward from stock location.

Front stuffage
http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/P0002862a.jpg

and the front shock it almost bottomed out:
http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/P0002867a.jpg

Picking up two sets of those 9.9109's after worky..... $35/set. I also remembered I have some 2x4x0.188 wall laying around as well. Between the rectangular tube, the 2"x0.120 HREW and the 1.5x0.5 DOM, I ought to be able to cobble something together that will hold up and weigh 20 times more than necessary to get the job done. Nothing like overkill.......

It's fine, just wheel it. :flipoff2:

Let's just bend some hoops real quick :flipoff2: I was wondering how you were able to use the F250 mounts the way ythey were mounted. I tried where you had yours, but it was limiting my travel. I ended up modifying the towers.

Let's just bend some hoops real quick :flipoff2: I was wondering how you were able to use the F250 mounts the way ythey were mounted. I tried where you had yours, but it was limiting my travel. I ended up modifying the towers.
If I even remotely thought I had the time to bend anything, your phone would have already been ringing. I do want to add a hoop to the front bumper sometime that goes up and over the winch, but that will also probably have to wait for a later time.

The front shocks work fine the way they are. They are set up to with enough up travel to stuff the tires on articulation, but need to be bumpstopped to keep the tie rod out of the oil pan when both sides are compressed at the same time.

It's fine, just wheel it. :flipoff2:
Oh, I plan on it! :flipoff2: I just want to add some bumpstops to keep from bottoming the shocks and tearing a shock mount off. I don't want to be "that guy" on the trail.

Don't use this one. It won't last when you stuff one wheel, it does not like going sideways...
http://www.justinternationals.org/gallery/data//503/1bump-stop-energy.jpg

Read this thread for Energy Suspension excellent customer support and a picture of the shorter bumpstop they sent me under warrenty.
http://www.justinternationals.org/Binder-Bench/showthread.php?t=4795

Lets see where is that pic....

You could do something like this and have your bump stop connect to the area around the spring plate.

http://www.twistedbinderz.org/Junk/duleshockplate2a.jpg

Off-topic (sorry) gotta ask while the pic is up.
N2IHC - is that the partsmike anti-wrap setup? Does it work well? Opinions? Assumed you only do one side (pass)?
I need to address this issue, looking at his - relatively inexpensive.

No idea I snapped the pic off a Jxxp

Well, here's my craptasticlly long rear bumpstops..... complete with gussets and 'go fast' holes!! :flipoff2: Not the best solution to the situation, but it'll keep the rear shocks from bottoming out and ripping the shock mounts off.

Ahh fork it your going wheeling all over and U suck anyway! :p Have a blast...hope you will share some of your adventure with the TB folks. :grinpimp:

Well, here's my craptasticlly long rear bumpstops..... complete with gussets and 'go fast' holes!! :flipoff2: Not the best solution to the situation, but it'll keep the rear shocks from bottoming out and ripping the shock mounts off.

I'm surprised you didn't lower your rear shock mounts down to the housing. Either way looks like your bumpstops should do the job.
________
apartments in Pattaya (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

Y would you stop flex with a bumpstop???? Why not just make you shocks and fenders work to the flex like this......................
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204889&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204890&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204891&stc=1


I get 40 inches in front and 46 inches in the rear and thats before I pull any tire........No bump stops and the longest 9000's I could get

Y would you stop flex with a bumpstop???? Why not just make you shocks and fenders work to the flex like this......................
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204889&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204890&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204891&stc=1


I get 40 inches in front and 46 inches in the rear and thats before I pull any tire........No bump stops and the longest 9000's I could get


Maybe because he is fabbing every minute he can because he is leaving for the Con from KC in a few days and doesn't have time to re engineer his suspension in the next 36 hours or so

Did you just say 36 hrs :laughing: I have known about this trip since
3-10-05 at 7:06 am

Did you just say 36 hrs :laughing: I have known about this trip since
3-10-05 at 7:06 am
So have I.... what's your point? Did you look at the pics above? I have decent flex the way it is... the bumpstops are set to keep from bottoming out the shocks and ripping the mounts off the frame. I'll redesign it later when I have more time. Like I said above.... not the best solution to the situation.... but a quick fix.

You are dismissed.....

Quick fixes are cool I guess :confused: :laughing:


Just depends on how many you have and trust 2000mi from home on a trail you have never taken the scout on....good luck

Y would you stop flex with a bumpstop???? Why not just make you shocks and fenders work to the flex like this......................
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204889&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204890&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=204891&stc=1


I get 40 inches in front and 46 inches in the rear and thats before I pull any tire........No bump stops and the longest 9000's I could get


That doesn't mean you don't need bumpstops.

That doesn't mean you don't need bumpstops.

:D Everyone has bump stops.. it's just a matter of whether they're the parts you engineered to be the bump stops, or something else.

..like when I found out my transmission pan is a bump stop, when the driveshaft comes up at full-bump and hits the transmission pan and case and tears some bolts out and pokes holes in the pan.

Or the countless times I've ripped shocks off because I didn't have the mounts just right, or enough travel out of the setup... or tire slices from the fenders, or..

:D Everyone has bump stops.. it's just a matter of whether they're the parts you engineered to be the bump stops, or something else.

..like when I found out my transmission pan is a bump stop, when the driveshaft comes up at full-bump and hits the transmission pan and case and tears some bolts out and pokes holes in the pan.

Or the countless times I've ripped shocks off because I didn't have the mounts just right, or enough travel out of the setup... or tire slices from the fenders, or..


exxxactly..

:D Everyone has bump stops.. it's just a matter of whether they're the parts you engineered to be the bump stops, or something else.

..like when I found out my transmission pan is a bump stop, when the driveshaft comes up at full-bump and hits the transmission pan and case and tears some bolts out and pokes holes in the pan.

Or the countless times I've ripped shocks off because I didn't have the mounts just right, or enough travel out of the setup... or tire slices from the fenders, or..
You make an honest point but what I'm trying to say is this...
Their becomes a point when a leaf will not flex (under certain weight limits) anymore and if you can find this point you have no need for bump stops. Leafs will only give so much down flex thats easy to see but trying to calculate the up flex (stuffage)...well thats the hard part and take lots of trial and error BUT it can be done... I know this because for what I do (rockcrawling) I have tuned my leafs to allow as much flex as the leafs have with no bumpstops at all.
Now I understand that if I were to go jump my scout I would run into problems because I never calculated in the stress on the leafs from a jump.
So I was just trying to under stand why anybody would want to put some fukin HUGE bumpstops under their junk and the show it to everybody like its cool

You make an honest point but what I'm trying to say is this...
Their becomes a point when a leaf will not flex (under certain weight limits) Now I understand that if I were to go jump my scout I would run into problems because I never calculated in the stress on the leafs from a jump.
So I was just trying to under stand why anybody would want to put some fukin HUGE bumpstops under their junk and the show it to everybody like its cool

Don't forget *momentum*

I don't jump my trail Scout as a matter of habit. It's just not set up for that.

I have, however, throttled hard into what turned out to be a rather solid snow-drift before, that sent the whole thing airborne and smashed the bump stops, flattened a brake hose, and tore off some tire rubber.

A more subtle example would be any time you have to drop off of a ledge, and you "shock load" the suspension more than the "leaf won't stuff any more" point because momentarily your Scout seems like it weighs more from momentum.

Better to bump-stop it where you KNOW you want the suspension to stop, than to just rely on the springs.

If the springs are stopping your up-travel, you have too much spring rate. :flipoff2:

So I was just trying to under stand why anybody would want to put some fukin HUGE bumpstops under their junk and the show it to everybody like its cool

Well....

Did some measuring tonight and I have 11" between the bottom of the frame and u-bolt plate on the axle on both the front and the rear of the truck (how did that happen :flipoff2: ). I also have about 4" of up travel before the shocks bottom out on both the front and rear (WTF.... how did that happen..... again).


And...

Yeah, I need to do some thing else with the shock mounts.... but that's not going to happen by next Monday. So for now, the lowered bumpstops are a band-aid.


So we can gather from his comments that he 1) is going on a trip soon. 2) his Shocks are bottoming out. 3) he needs to move his shock mounts but there is no time. 4) this is a Band-Aid fix so he can go wheeling.

Reading is fundamental :flipoff2: