Hey, what's it sound like when a hub bearing starts to go bad?

I wanna know what others think before I jump to conclusions.

Apologies for the weak tech.

:flipoff2:

normally they start running warm before they make noise

normally they start running warm before they make noise
X2 :D

Hey Mike,

Since I'm not - well, I wasn't - in the habit of feeling my hubs after driving, I didn't notice my failed hub bearing until it was making a horrible grinding noise. Sounded alot like a completely worn down brake pad.

It had failed due to water & grit in there where the grease is supposed to be, imagine that!

Hmmmm...well, the grinding noise that has been described is not what I heard. I heard a very high pitched whining that was speed related. Around 60-65 mph is where it started. Kind of came and went over the course of about 100 miles last weekend.

Haven't driven it on the highway since, so I'm now kind of wondering what I was hearing.

It did sound like it was coming from the right front. Maybe a brake pad rubbing against a rotor? They're slotted/drilled DBA's FWIW...

Hey Mike,
Since I'm not - well, I wasn't - in the habit of feeling my hubs after driving

It's one of those post opperational checks that gets performed. One of those weird things the Army makes you do to vehicles and it just stuck with me over the years.

Mike,
jack up the front end and check for wheel bearing play.

Makes perfect sense, and I do it now, but until I had the "all of a sudden" bearing failure it hadn't occurred to me.

For the minimal amount of time, parts and material involved, just tear the damned thing apart and have a looksee!

I've seen them destroy themselves and only make noise when one turned a specific direction (the cage was gone and the rollers pulverized). I've heard them make horrible grinding noises only when hot, and then there is my own situation where all along, I thought I was hearing my steering dampener rattle.

IF you get to it soon enough, you might be able to spare either the bearing and/or the stub axle. If you keep going, you'll end up needing the stub axle, bearings and maybe even a hub (in extreme cases).

Peace,
PT

Remember how long you looked for the last stub axle!

Where you been anyway?

Hmmmm...well, the grinding noise that has been described is not what I heard. I heard a very high pitched whining that was speed related. Around 60-65 mph is where it started. Kind of came and went over the course of about 100 miles last weekend.

Haven't driven it on the highway since, so I'm now kind of wondering what I was hearing.

It did sound like it was coming from the right front. Maybe a brake pad rubbing against a rotor? They're slotted/drilled DBA's FWIW...

I experienced somthing similar last week while driving up the 395 to Bishop. A high pitched whirring sound from the front end, kind of sounded metalic but not sure. Aso heard it at high speeds. I just changed my bearings 6 months ago and packed them good and even double checked them a few months later. Bearings where the first thing that came to mind when I heard the noise. Guess I'll have to tear them down and have a look.

For the minimal amount of time, parts and material involved, just tear the damned thing apart and have a look

IF you get to it soon enough, you might be able to spare either the bearing and/or the stub axle. If you keep going, you'll end up needing the stub axle, bearings and maybe even a hub (in extreme cases).

Peace,
PT

what he said,last week i had to rebuild my friends front wheel bearings(rangerover/landrover hybred).After about a 50 mile drive the car suddenly pulled to one side,bearing had welded itself to stub axle and destroyed the hub in the process :eek:

didn't read the respones Break it open wouldn't hurt for you to learn how to wrench first then play with your truck.
Is that why all you rover guys are skinny from all the walking home from the trails? :)

No really you will know when they go bad but you should see it coming from routine maint.

Happy treading!

I changed the bearings on my 110 because the play in the right hand bearings, front and rear, got so bad I couldn't steer in anymore, and the CV moved around enough for the ABS sensor to go mad. But no heat, no grinding noice. Go figure.

I changed the bearings on my 110 because the play in the right hand bearings, front and rear, got so bad I couldn't steer in anymore, and the CV moved around enough for the ABS sensor to go mad. But no heat, no grinding noice. Go figure.


Sounds like you needed to adjust the endfloat on the hub

Sounds like you needed to adjust the endfloat on the hub

Nope, newer hubs with non-adjustable bearing preload.

Break it open wouldn't hurt for you to learn how to wrench first then play with your truck.

Yeah, I'll have to take it apart and see what's up. I've never taken a hub apart before, so this will be a new experience!

:flipoff2:

Pendy...I'm trying to wean myself off of the internet. I just started back at school again. Also trying to put in my yard/sprinklers and build my Irish rock wall before the snow flies. :D

Yeah, I'll have to take it apart and see what's up. I've never taken a hub apart before, so this will be a new experience!

:flipoff2:

Pendy...I'm trying to wean myself off of the internet. I just started back at school again. Also trying to put in my yard/sprinklers and build my Irish rock wall before the snow flies. :D

I found that when my endfloat was loose there was play in the wheel affected. I could grab the top of the tire and push it in and out and feel some play or a clicking noise. Still worth taking them apart. I am worried that maybe I did a poor job at packing them and that is where the noise is coming from.

Nope, newer hubs with non-adjustable bearing preload.

Just when you thought rovers sucked as much as they could suck

Nope, newer hubs with non-adjustable bearing preload.

Are they using a one piece bearing?
Got photos?

I just can't see how they changed hubs in such a manner as to eliminate the need for adjusting them :confused:

Are they using a one piece bearing?
Got photos?

I just can't see how they changed hubs in such a manner as to eliminate the need for adjusting them :confused:

Semi-floaters in P38s and DIIs are not adjustable either.But, I've never seen a non-adjustable hub bearing other than (we need a smilie with a lite bulb over it-Duh, there is one :idea:) Duh-Wilsby, what year is your 110? Are they now semi-floating? I seem to remember a reference to everything going to semi-floaters in 2003 or thereabouts.

My Defender is a 2001 MY. There are distance tubes between the outer races and between the inner races. I did my bearings before the summer, but took no photos. Supposedly, bearing tolerances are so consistent that no adjustability is needed. Makes installation simple, just tighten the nut to a reasonable torque, hammer it locked and forget about the whole thing. Until next time you get acidy, muddy swamp water in there. :flipoff2:

My Defender is a 2001 MY. There are distance tubes between the outer races and between the inner races. I did my bearings before the summer, but took no photos. Supposedly, bearing tolerances are so consistent that no adjustability is needed. Makes installation simple, just tighten the nut to a reasonable torque, hammer it locked and forget about the whole thing. Until next time you get acidy, muddy swamp water in there. :flipoff2:

Hmmm, wonder if its possible to convert older hubs to this setup

Pete

Supposedly, bearing tolerances are so consistent that no adjustability is needed.

Given the variations in stub axles, it doesn't matter how consistent the bearings are :flipoff2:

Yikes, after reviewing P38a hub photos at http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/drivetrain/hubs.html it appears that I must indeed be a "luddite" as described there.

Sure looks like it makes for easy initial assembly, but maintenance looks like a b#@ch!

Sure looks like it makes for easy initial assembly, but maintenance looks like a b#@ch!

After destroying a CV joint boot on the first one, I made a handful of tools (insert obligatory KC comment here) and the process is now seamless and quick.

Without the tools, the job is neither. The hub is invariably rusted solid-invariably.

I would think that you don't move around the compression tubes between stub axles. With consistent bearings, what's the problem, then?

As for P38's, I removed my hubs with the help of a copper mallet to change boots. Do I get a gold star? :flipoff2: I have to admit it took a few days of swearing, spraying various penetrating oils, and banging away with the mallet to break the rust, though.

As for P38's, I removed my hubs with the help of a copper mallet to change boots. Do I get a gold star? :flipoff2: I have to admit it took a few days of swearing, spraying various penetrating oils, and banging away with the mallet to break the rust, though.

Book time is only 0.85 hours! With the correct tools, this time can be beaten.

Book time is only 0.85 hours! With the correct tools, this time can be beaten.

I'm sure it can. Things freeze solid after a few briny Swedish winters, though. Two good reasons why I should never wrench for money.