I'm sick of axle wrap. My buddy has a set of rad arms with an extra 15" he's willing to give me. I know the swap will work, but I'm also planing on wristing it along with the front. would i have any problems with the pumkin and drive shaft in the middle of the axle, instead of on the opposite side of the wrist like in the front?

As long as one of the arms is rigid ( not wristed) your pinion angle, should not be affected. The one link that is not wristed will maintain that angle throughout the cycle of the suspenion.
Let us know how it works out.


Brian--

At higher axle ratios, there is less of an effect, but the truck will still tend to plant the left rear tire a little more firmly when under power...

So probably the passenger side arm would be the one to wrist on the rear as well.

With the arm pinned, it will probably articulate less than a leaf sprung truck...

Or you could wrist them both and put a third arm (torque arm) in the middle. I'm working on something like that.

I recently had a long talk with a suspension technition about this idea. And, in short, it wont work the way you would like. Infact, it will increase axle wrap.
What we figured out, is that having radius arms in the rear, would cause the vehicle to raise up under exceleration. I know what your thinking. kinda that "Eh?" thing.. :D
Heres what we came up with. In the rear, if you were to connect radius arms to the axle. Meaning, the c-bushing style you would be creating axle wrap. How? The c-bushing is designed to keep camber in the axle. By elimitating the rotation caused by everything spinning clockwise inside of the axle. All of this twisting has to transfer somwhere. Seeing that the c-bushings do not bend *alot* the twisting force get tranfered to the frame via the raduis mounts. In the front of the truck, there is not enough torque to make the vehicle rise. But in the rear, when the truck is under power, the axle presses up on the arms, wich inturn cause the vehicle to lift up. Quite abit infact. At the same time, the axle housing is rotating, creating more axlewrap. When you brake hard, this will also cause the truck to squat.

Your best bet is to create a link * or two * that mounts ontop of the axle tube and then inboard of the frame. Using a bushing or hiem joint. This way, the axle is no longer wanting to push the link upward, but instead wanting to pull it back. This will not affect the suspension in anyway, and it will elimnate all axle wrap.

Radius arms in the front are an okay design. But in the rear, they are not the best choice.

What SMC is saying about rear of truck rising under acceleratiron is correct, but is not axle wrap. In fact almost any leaf-sprung truck does it. If the arms are about the same length as the driveshaft, then the pinion stays pointed at the TC or carrier bearing, protecting the U-joints. Unless the arms are not stiff enough (leaf springs) then they flex, and THAT is axle wrap.

Also, the force that raises the rear of the vehicle has to come from somwhere, and where it comes from is the rear tires being driven into the ground more firmly. (AKA "hooking up") This is not a bad thing. Traction bars, ladder bars, and slapper bars all do this.

Give in the C-bushings will allow some axle wrap, but the lifting of the rear end is just the "traction bar " effect.

I run radius arms with 1/4 elliptic springs in the rear of my CJ. . . 460 under the hood. NO AXLE WRAP and controlled flex. Everybody I know that talks "theory" says it shouldn't work well. They're wrong.

DAMN jer! some good feed back on your project. I'll be contacting you on our regular channels, call me if you need help.:beer: :beer: :beer:
:beer: :beer: :beer:
(HINTING AT 6PACK........) :usa:

Six Pack!! this is at least going to take a case.:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: x :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :D

You already got started on that case by the looks of it.
You got all the tools you need? or do I bring some. :jeep3:
Are your 36" SSR's (and sb400) going to deform the one solid radius arm if you wrist the other one? :) :usa:

I'm thinking a couple of 1/2" steel plates to fill the gap should be enough reinforcment to keep it doing it's jop properly.

sounds like a good idea. now cutting the steel will be fun. nows the time to get that plasma cutter. LOL:jeep: :jeep3: :beer:

Ya Robert, tell me when you get it cause I can't wait to break it.. in:D Unfortunatly I'm gonna have to go with good ol' oxy torch, but hey, what ever gets the job done.

:rasta: sure beats the skilsaw/metalchop wheel, been checkin out stuff at harbor freight lately, they sent me another mailer. let you know what i find.
:nuke: stop by Poudre Valley Offroad and check out some of Nick's toys. you may even like the XJ, or the TLC, or the CJ5, maybe use similar ideas,,,,,,,maybe he can help with the radius arm stuff, (like to see what he has done to my old 49 flattie)
R U gonna keep your old frame? or get a newer model, I think Andersens still has that 86 frame..........just a thought, I'd like to get it myself, but my boat hasn't docked at my doorstep yet. LOL
:smokin: :usa: maybe a long lost uncle will think of me in a will:question:

ya, my frame now has more cracks in it than a whore house in Texas :p so when i get a little free time i'm gonna snatch it, looks pretty clean from what i can tell I just hope it's the same frame. Hollander interchange says they're different, but i think that is just the holes for the motor mounts.

With the mods you're going to do anyway I don't think it's going to be a problem using the 86 frame, since everything on yours has been modified anyway, or will be done soon enough. At that time the frame will be stripped down to a mere skeletal remains :skull: so all the reinforcing could be done as well, especially at the SB400 MM's, Rad arm mts. coil buckets, shock towers.
I'm available this weekend, I could bring my trailer if you want to get the frame early Sat a.m. Will be worth the trip, call kelly or max to see if the frame is still there-I'm surprised that it hasn't walked outa there yet:question: knowing the vultures who pick the bones out there:skull:
Call or write me to let me know.:rasta: :beer:

I'm planning on wraping the from in the crucial areas with 1/8" to 1/4" steel, basicly all the areas formentioned and maybe an extra crossmember up by the 400 if i can find a suitable place for it. As for picking it up, I'm going to wait till The boss is out. Kelly and Johnny have been letting me just have stuff. I got out of there the other day with a twin stick dana 20 T case for my jeep. not to mention The dana 60 also:)

When the cat's away, the mice come out to play.

When is the boss' next day off?
Way 2 go on the D60 and the D20 twinshift. Should bolt up same as current D20? spline count same I hope. :smokin:
There's a NP 231 for sale near me, but don't want popcan metal if I can help it.:nuke: :rasta:

I thought this post was about rear radius arms?? If you two want to be alone, you should try a different board....:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Fawkin Newbies............

sawry dude, didn't know U cared so much 1fuglyranger:nuke:
so heres a :beer: :beer: :beer:
:beer: :beer: :beer: 4ya.
:smokin:

belly up to the bar and have a brewski on me

http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/trackbar.jpg

http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/trackbar2.jpg

http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/1.jpg

Right on, like that setup on that ranger, no probs on that setup? Couldn't see what you're using for the lower arms, I assume they're radius arms? Flex should be outa this world.:emb:
Always looking to improve on my rig, yours looks unique, never saw the single arm used before, always seen the three point upper links. :usa: :rasta:

Single bar at the top, saved my ass, broke that pueny housing like 4 times, then built that in an hr and all was good, why need a lower arm? fukit, upper works just fine...

pondering 63" chebys

Flex is NICE
http://www.heroic.cc/ranger/images/prairie/ek_9.jpg

Keep inmind im SOA up front... It helps ;)

hey SMARTASS nice truck but thats a tracktion bar there :flipoff2:
um way different than radius arms or did you not read what this is about :rolleyes:

All work done by Bent & Twisted 4 Wheel Drive in Chico:


http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/community/rocktoy/rsusp1

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/community/rocktoy/rsusp2

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/community/rocktoy/rsusp3

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/community/rocktoy/rsusp4

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/community/rocktoy/rsusp5

I bet that set-up works great for you. never seen that idea before, and i've seen some strange uses of quarter-elipticals before. how did you calculate spring rate? or was this too a guess-N-go-till-its-right. my way of calculating would've been by calculating original fuul-length spring rate, then doubling leaves to acquire the needed weight ratio, minus a small reduction of spring strength for added flex.
i would like to see this set-up in use. definitely has potential. i'll have to show a friend this.

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/community/rocktoy/Rubiconflex

Works pretty well. Definitely not photo-flex but it gets the job done in a controlled manner.