Always wondered why the front DS on the full size chevy's had a cv joint in it, the angle is not at all severe. A buddy had a new shaft made without a cv joint in it and ran it with a 4 inch lift, no problem. What's the story?

The reason I'm asking is I'll be moving my eng/trans/tranny back about 8 inches and I'll need a new shaft. Since the new front shaft will be longer, the angle will be even less severe, (with a 4 inch lift).

In a short answer no it's not required but with some set ups it helps with the angle and clearence issues..

I thought it was to get it farther from the t-case . cause of the crossmember and all

how do you like that grammer

I thought it was to get it farther from the t-case . cause of the crossmember and all

how do you like that grammer

What grammar :confused: Oh you mean the way you spelled grammar wrong :flipoff2:

The cross member can be an issue for some, depending on the config. There is also the front pinion angle to be thinking about. From the factory, it points upwards so that the lower joint is straighter than it would be for a non-CV shaft, but not as high as the "ideal" would indicate. After market springs seem to generally push it even further down, and longer shackles to keep the springs off the frame push it down further still. That also gives you more caster than factory spec, so something else to think about.

So, in many cases, if you don't have cross member issues to deal with, a standard shaft will work as well or better then a CV shaft when combined with relatively low lift (4-6" or so). Beyond that, or with flexy suspensions, you may want a clearanced CV to deal with the angles.

I myself run 1410 shafts front and rear, no CVs, and I'm very happy with it…

Can't say I know the answer.

Wouldn't the CV make it easier for the factory to have a near-vibration free front ds across all models and front spring configs, i.e., 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, SBC, BBC, diesel, etc.?

I always thought it was because some people will drive around with it 4 wheel drive in some instances .

Like in cooler climates where there is snow or ice for days at a time , or when full time 203's were prevalent and driven at highway speeds , and also in the 80's with shift on the fly 208's and auto hubs .

Remember , vehicles were produced for a wider demographic than just "US" . Some people wouldn't put up with vibes when they need to use the transfercase shifter .

Good info guys! Reading your posts I think it may have been a combination of things you've mentioned that made GM use the CV joint to avoid the potential problems.

When I get my mess put together I'll have a front shaft made up without the CV and see how it goes. Thanks :beer:

...When I get my mess put together I'll have a front shaft made up without the CV and see how it goes...
A little advice...:grinpimp:

The oem frt DSs were 1310 CVs. You can upgrade to a 1350 CV just by changing the CV portion and the pinion yoke and matching DS yoke. Actually, you don't need to change the pinion yoke area. It's just ridiculous to stay with the 1310 pinion yoke when you can upgrade for a reasonable cost since you are having a new DS made anyway.

Since I'm eliminating the CV joint, I assume you are talking about upgrading my U-joints at each end of the drive shaft? Which would mean new yoke ends for the shaft as well as the pinion and t-case yokes? Sounds as if that would add up as opposed to getting my existing shaft lengthened and the CV left out.

Assuming there are no other problems, that will likely not allow you enough angle on top without binding.

My thinking was that you might consider trying to retain a CV joint by upgrading to 1350 size. Then you'd gain strength with less vibration than no CV at all. Just an option/something to consider. :)

I checked on the outer diameter of a 1350 CV because I will be going 1350 when I get to upgrading my K20 burb. A 1350 CV is about 1/4" greater outer diameter, so I don't anticipate any crossmember clearance issues.

Assuming there are no other problems, that will likely not allow you enough angle on top without binding.


To what are you referring? Above you said you run without a CV and had no problems. I confused :confused:

My thinking was that you might consider trying to retain a CV joint by upgrading to 1350 size. Then you'd gain strength with less vibration than no CV at all. Just an option/something to consider. :)



Gotcha :grinpimp:

I run 1410s, big difference between angular limits of 1410 and 1310...

1 ton 88' K5 40 boggers and 4 inch EZ-rides and t-case dropped an inch, 205 t-case 1350 yoke at case and 1350 at d-60 no CV and works great

I run 1410s, big difference between angular limits of 1410 and 1310...

I see, thanks for the tip. Since I'm only running a 4 inch lift, and I'm moving my engine back about 8 inches, the angles should not be that bad, but I'll keep it in mind. I'm also making my own cross member so I should be able to avoid any cross member clearance problems. If not I'll have to re-think things. My buddy ran the stock u-joints, no CV, with a 4 inch lift and the stock engine location and didn't have problems, so I should be alright.

1 ton 88' K5 40 boggers and 4 inch EZ-rides and t-case dropped an inch, 205 t-case 1350 yoke at case and 1350 at d-60 no CV and works great

Why did you feel the need to drop the t-case with only a 4 inch lift? Just to be safe?

I run 4" of lift with a "doubler" and the axle moved forward a total of around 3.5-4", so my static shaft angles are less than yours. But with a relatively flexy front suspension, you can still exceed a 1310s limits. Mine did not require clearancing of the 1410s, but there is no way I could run 1310s, even clearanced. If you run a common 4" lift spring pack without tweaking other things for more travel (like moving the shackle, modified shock mounts, etc.), you might be all right, not sure.

Why did you feel the need to drop the t-case with only a 4 inch lift? Just to be safe?

i aquired a blazer that already had some cool spacers made, so after i built my drive shafts, i stuck them in :smokin: but im sure it will work with out the spacers ohh i also moved my axle ahead 1 inch by drilling the perch and plates. i think i am going to pull out the spacers and see what happens see if i have any bind ill get back to you on this

I have 7" of lift and run 1310's just fine, very little angle... but my front shaft is 48" long,