I did a search and found I need 7/8-18 taps (LH and RH) but i could not find the info on the tapered reamer. What size/type of reamer do I need? I told the tool shop I wanted one for tie rods and they had no idea what I wanted. What is the right name and size for the thing to make the holes in the steering arms for the tapered tie-rod to go into?

Thanks,
Phil

Oh, and can someone confirm it is 7/8-18 and not UNC (7/8-14)

Thanks,
Phil

Its 18 allright :cool:

Dont know about the taper though.

Thanks,
While we are on this subject couldn't I use SMALL wheel nuts (and an apropriate stud) for the king pin mount? Then I could get zero clearnace fit with common nuts and reamer?
Be easier than buying the special GM studs/nuts and tools?

Phil

Check out BillaVista's site. Everything you need to know can be found there. The taper is 1.5"/foot.

Also, check out avalanche's site. They sell 7/8-18 RH & LH tube inserts that weld into 1" i.d. DOM ... beats cutting your own threads. They even sell custom made links that are reasonably priced.

cmk

ok, I will check that out. Avalanche? $15-20 per end(I need four plus spares) Cheaper to buy the taps.

And what do you think of the small car nuts on the king pin studs?

Thanks,
Phil

Where are you getting the taps from?

I looked for a week for a LH 7/8-18 before I just said screw it and brought to a local shop who ended up doing it for me, but he cut 'em on a lathe because he didn't have the tap and all the local race shops only had 3/4" sh@t for their heims and JJ's.

Thanks

Where you getting your taps from? I was quoted last week $130.00 something for the 7/8X18 reverse and $30.00 for the standard, are you finding them cheaper?
Also B.C. Broncos sells the tapered reams and I think the one he sells is what you are looking for.
Please let me know on the taps, I found a machine shop that will cut the threads in some 1.250 X .250 wall chromoly for me on a lathe, but I would like to have the taps if I could find them more reasonably priced.

snap on #r121 is the reamer
though I destroyed it after 2 minutes of owning it trying to ream the pitman

For the reamer I used a Hanson 12-1 1/2. I bought a hand reamer for around $20 and put it in the drill press at a slow speed, put the pitman arm in the vise and used a lot of cutting oil. I did the pitman arm and the two steering arms with no problems or abuse to the reamer.

NOTE: when I bought the reamer it looked fine, but when I put it in the drill press, it was slightly warped, luckily it was at the tip so it was passed the point I needed. I ended up returning it w/ no questions asked even though I had used it. I bought it from the local industrial shop, they have 'em stock.

I just talked to the tool supplier. 7/8-18 taps are CDN$67 and CDN$83. That is from Legere Industrial here in Ottawa. They are a supplier for Taylor Tools in Toronto.

I also asked him about a reamer, and I tell him "tapered reamer 1.5"/foot and he has no idea - that is three TOOL stores I have called and no one knows what that is.

Anyone know the type of reamer - Taper PIN reamer? Is that right?

Thanks,
Phil

I paid $55cdn for the snap on reamer r121
cool find on the taps

In Rochester, NY the guys are Cook Iron Store Co. (CISCO). I don't know their phone number, but they should have a reamer. Ask for the hand reamer, Hanson 12-1 1/2, they might not know it off hand, but tell him they stock it. It took me about 5-10minutes when I was there, but he found it.

Or look up Hanson on the net, somebody should carry 'em. I remember I got the info about Hanson from PartsMike. Maybe he can sell you one.

1) 1.250 OD x 0.812 ID DOM for the tie rod (tap directly into 0.812" ID)
-any tube with the 0.812" ID will work

2) 1.5" .120 DOM for sleeving (optional)

3) Tie rod tube should be about 38"for stock early Bronco knuckles (39.5" for 76-77 disk knuckles) and drag link should be about 25" for high misalignment ends and 27" if using the tie
rod ends for the drag link). If using the F150 box and the high misalignment ends, then the drag link tube length should be 18.75".

4) 7/8" x 18 UNEF extra fine left and right hand taps
Travers Tool Co, Inc
14-056-182 (plug style)7/8-18 right hand $20.47
McMaster-Carr
2595A424 7/8-18 right hand $49
2595A999 7/8-18 left hand $108

5) Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8ClassID=121SubclassID=5 65&ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

6) Rod ends
-pass side tie rod (with hole and regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-driver side tie rod (regular misalignment) 85 Blazer
-pass side drag link end (high misalignment)
-pitman arm side drag link end (high misalignment)

Autozone:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link end

Autozone Online Prices:
ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R $24.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L $24.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R $24.99 high misalignment drag link end

7) big end of the tie rod is .78" and the small end is around .67"

8) The tie rod ends should come with the jam nuts, but the drag links won't. I searched high and low for the source for the jam nuts and have only come up with the Chevy part numbers which are 14026805 (left hand) and 14026806 (right hand)
From Quinn D.

Thanks for the info guys. Ordered the tapered remaer from snap-on for CDN$55, and the taps from Legere Industrial for CDN$83 and CDN$67.


Now I just need to find 7/8-18 LH and RH jamb nuts... maybe I will make my own ;)

Thanks,
Phil

avalanche sells the jam nuts (http://www.avalancheengr.com/parts/steering/tie_rod_links.htm)

Anyone see any reason I could take a 3/4-16 jamb nut (I get them for about $1 each) and drill it out and tap it to 7/8-18 with my new taps? Seems like it would be easy...

By the time I get four jamb nuts from avalanche at $7 each, plus shipping, plus taxes - I'm out over $40. vs. ten minutes with the drill press and a half hour with the tap (or less).
Sound good?

Phil

Originally posted by 1TONTJ
Anyone see any reason I could take a 3/4-16 jamb nut (I get them for about $1 each) and drill it out and tap it to 7/8-18 with my new taps? Seems like it would be easy...

By the time I get four jamb nuts from avalanche at $7 each, plus shipping, plus taxes - I'm out over $40. vs. ten minutes with the drill press and a half hour with the tap (or less).
Sound good?

Phil

You could do it that way, I did. But they ended up being kinda small and not looking quite right next to my 1.5" solid tierod and T.R.Es so I ordered avalanche engineerings "nuts". They are very worth it! They match the beefiness of the tierod and ends. IMO it's worth the 6.99 ea!

Using a Stud Nut (for pipe flanges) and re-threading it will be larger than a standard nut. Here is another formula for the geeks among us.

Dia. of thread + 1/2 Dia. of thread +.125 = distance from Flat to Flat on a Stud Nut (for Pipe Flanges)

for example: 3/4" Stud Nut is 1.25 from flat to flat.

.75 + .375 + .125 = 1.250

A standard 7/8" nut has a flat to flat dimension of 1.3125, so a stud nut is not quite as big but it gets you close. :D