Most places seem to sell the ES2027L and ES2026R (draglink ends) cheaper than the ES2234R and ES2010L (tie rod ends). Just for simplicity, strength, and cost I though that I would use the aforementioned draglink ends on the tie rod and the draglink, is this kosher? I guess my main question is if there any problems with using these draglink ends on the tie rod?


Lastly, who has the best price on the ES2027L and ES2026R draglink ends?


;)


thanks,

Sorry, I know this isn't the most interesting thread. Any comments would be helpful.



thanks,

I don't see anything wrong with it. The only thing is that they are longer, so your tie rod would be shorter.

I suppose this could make the over-all setup a tad weaker if you had a big beefy tie rod compared to the same beefy rod and shorter ends, but its probably not all THAT significant (if someone knows better, please correct me!).

I've been thinking of shortening my TR and doing just this so I'd only need two spare ends...


I bought my ends at Autozone- good price and "lifetime waranty." :)

Oh yeah, you'd need to re-taper for slightly bigger DL end taper too...

I running the 26/27 on my DL and TR. I've only driven it once so far, but I think it's going to work fine.

Cool, thanks guys. I just wanted to feel things out before I lay my money down for steering arms, rods, and such.






:skull:

umm if you do not use one of the tie rod, how are you going to connect the Drag link to the Tie rods?

Originally posted by welndmn
umm if you do not use one of the tie rod, how are you going to connect the Drag link to the Tie rods?

You don't. You tie the drag link into the steering arm instead to the tie rod end.

Depends on your setup I guess. My DL connects to the steering arm, not the TR, so it would work fine for me...

Hehe, beat me to it... http://66.216.68.23/ubb/graemlins/nerd.gif

Originally posted by Eric


You don't. You tie the drag link into the steering arm instead to the tie rod end.


Yep, no inverted T for me.

Originally posted by ErikB
Depends on your setup I guess. My DL connects to the steering arm, not the TR, so it would work fine for me...

Hehe, beat me to it... http://66.216.68.23/ubb/graemlins/nerd.gif
DOH! sorry, posting with out thinkin

Just for an update on prices, I found the cheapest Moog TRE's and DRE's at a local place called G.I. Joes.

Here are their prices (parts are on hand) at G.I. Joes:

ES2234R: $19.49
ES2010L: n.a.
ES2027L: $19.99
ES2026R: $22.99


If you don't live within the driving range of G.I. Joes store then Autozone (online) seems to have OK prices:

Autozone Online Prices:
ES2233L: $25.99 pass side tie rod
ES2234R: $24.99 driver side tie rod
ES2027L: $24.99 high misalignment drag link end
ES2026R: $24.99 high misalignment drag link end

If anybody has found a place that supplies these ands for cheaper then post it here. Just for a laugh, I'll mention that Schucks quoted me $61.99 for a ES2234R!!! In fact a bunch of the places that I called quoted me prices that where double the prices that I've posted above. Anyway, just passing this along.



:)

Are you sure those are MOOG brand and not some other brand? Most of the brands use the same numbers.

Originally posted by Eric
Are you sure those are MOOG brand and not some other brand? Most of the brands use the same numbers.


Each place I called, the first thing I asked was, "do you carry Moog brand tie rod ends?" They could have been lying to me but it seems unlikely.

Moogs didnt work for me
they were incorrectly threaded
I had to go accross town for spicers

Originally posted by mj
Moogs didnt work for me
they were incorrectly threaded
I had to go accross town for spicers


Specifics.

es2026r
the threads are supposed to 7/8 18 but were not
in the length of the tap they were a full thread out
I never investigated as to what the thread actually was
just returned it and they didnt have another in stock so I had to go else where
obviously a defect but with the adjuster sleeve that is normally used it most likely wouldnt have been noticed

Hmm, this is a bit of a concern. I have new MOOG drag link ends on my K30 and I'm building a "rock rod" drag link next week (for cross over and hydro assist) which is *supposed* to reuse them. I hope that was an odd case of poor quality control. I guess we will see...

at least now you know its possible
I lost a bunch of time trying to figure WTF was wrong

Are these the big taper (.776" to .667")? I'm looking to build an inverted "T" with the hy-steer arms from Tr-County. Having trouble finding TRE specs.

Originally posted by withamc
Are these the big taper (.776" to .667")? I'm looking to build an inverted "T" with the hy-steer arms from Tr-County. Having trouble finding TRE specs.

Smaller:
ES2234R
ES2010L


Bigger:
ES2027L
ES2026R

Both are 7/8 18 thread.