Hey guys (and gals)

Just bought a 1993 Isuzu Trooper V6 (SOHC). 280k km's $800!!! (body and interior in amazing shape!). Sold b/c gas prices hit C$1.40/L, owner bought a Toyota Prius (go figure!!).

Anyway.. all the maintainence records have been kept up to date since it was purchased, bought it from the original owner. Oil changes every 6,000km's. Engine burns about 1L of oil for every 6,000 km's (is that amount expected.. or is a rebuild looming?

The other question I have pertains to the 4wd transfer case/ trans. As this truck is a 5spd, there's a seperate lever for the 4hi and low (as you all well know). Well, I've been told that during the summer it runs fine... but during the winter (up here in Canada).. it (the lever) seems to pop out of 4hi by itself. I called a Isuzu Saab Saturn dealer and he told me there's a "fork" and "spring" that might be worn. I wanted to get some opinions or explainations from anyone that has experienced this as well.

If it helps diagnose the problem (unless it's another problem alltogether).. the 4wd drive systems sometimes hesitates when being disengaged. I was told to throw it in reverse and back up a foot or two. One of the autolocking hubs was replaced recently.. but it seems to click sometimes nevertheless. Any ideas?

Any help is much appriciated.. and I'll be sure to post a follow up... to help out anyone in the same situation.

hub solution = aisin manual hubs

you can buy them at www.independent4x.com

Chris is right. It will be easier and cheaper to just replace the hubs with manual ones. Junkyard OEM Asins, Superwinch or Warn are your choices.

As for your second problem, first check to see if some brain child did not put gear oil in your transfer case. (While you are at it, check the tranny too.) Just pull the plugs and sniff. Then, make sure the boots are installed in the floor correctly. While you are under there, make sure the tranny mount is OK. If it is shot, it might move it enough to knock it out of gear.

Finally, the best I can say is to change the oil. Synth may help you out a bit, but 5w-30 is thick when cold and until it warms up, it can cause things to pop out of gear. Remember, you are looking at 175K miles. Depending on how well the tranny/x-fer was cared for, it could just be something you live with because it is not worth the $$ to fix it.

Good Luck,
Michael

Finally, dont EVER call a dealer, especially one that sells Saabs and Saturns AND Isuzus. First of all, they will tell you nothing over the phone, secondly they are selling Saabs and Saturns for goodness sake. :D Besides, what they told you isn not really correct. There is a spring, but the whole shift fork is held in place primarily by detents in the rail. :rolleyes:

If some "brain child" actually put tranny oil in the trans and transfer case (I'm assuming they're connected!?), then what is the capacity to re-fill them with crank case oil? Or, do I simply drain the tranny and transfer case and fill them up again to the top of fill hole? How often should I be changing the oil in the tranny and transfer case.. and what weight/viscosity of crankcase oil should I be using for the tranny and transfer (as I know 5w30 is suggested for the engine!!). Thanks to all who are willing to help out a new Trooper owner (I'm loving the truck, by the way!!!)

One the 5spd they do not share the oil as they are not connected(internally speaking)

As for capacity, the Trans is approx. 3-3.5qrts and the Xcase is approx 1-1.5qrts. Not 100% on capacity since I don't have my book in front of me. As for draining, just drain them...both have drain plugs on the bottom, the a fill hole up on the passenger side. The recommended weight is similiar to engine oil...depends on conditions. I think 5W-30 is fine....that is what I run in mine. Also, I agree with Micheal, change the fluids. Even if it was done recently. I always recommend doing this on a used car.

Last but not least, pull the covers off the shifters(boots and plastic trim) I know with mine..although I have a body lift, the rubber boot gets tight when I am in 4Hi, and can pull the shifter out of gear.

Steve

Also, if you pull the boots and the shifters, it is much easier to fill the cases through the holes. It is much better than trying to coax it up and then have it make a right turn into a small opening.

Michael

You guys are prooving to be a HUGE resource of knowledge.. I wanted to thank you all. Now... I read (in one of the responses) that I could go with manual locking hubs (as I understand Asini and Superwinch are a good choice?), if I'm having trouble with my auto locking hubs. My question is this: what happens once you've made the swap to manual locking hubs and you shift into 4hi/low (once at a stand still, of course)? I'm guessing that the auto feature will still work? So, is it a fail safe to have the manual hubs installed or will these manual hubs defeat the purpose of the autolocking hubs all together?

My question is this: what happens once you've made the swap to manual locking hubs and you shift into 4hi/low (once at a stand still, of course)? I'm guessing that the auto feature will still work? So, is it a fail safe to have the manual hubs installed or will these manual hubs defeat the purpose of the autolocking hubs all together?

with manaul hubs, you will have to get out and manually lock the hubs to make it be in true 4wheel drive. If you shift into 4wheel, with the hubs unlocked, your front driveline will spin, but you will not be having the front axles "locked" to the wheels, so you won't get the power.

The main reason to switch to manual hubs is simplicity. Auto hubs seem to fail more regularly then manual hubs. They are generally stronger. If you truely want to keep the auto/4wheel drive while moving you can leave the hubs locked on the road. Generally you never need it(maybe in really snowy conditions) but still easy to stop, hop out and lock in the hubs. Then you know it is locked.

Steve

Okay.. so I have new oil in the engine/tranny/& Xcase.... boots are pulled (to make for less restrictive access to 4hi). Now, I'm wondering what to do with my engine, how long could it possibly last? It seems to run very well right now (fingers are crossed).......still can't believe I bought it for C$800.

It has 280km's on it. The oil has been changed every 5k km's, it's had an engine flush not too long ago and maintainence on it has been top notch. But that's still a lot of km's (even though it's a 1993 sohc v6). Do I buy an engine rebuild kit -just in case- (for sale on eBay US$400: pistons, rings, bearings, rods, belts and various gaskets). Or, do I wait until the engine let's go and try and source a 3.5L? In which case, I would want the engine, tranny and x-case??

Thank you vey much in advance for the advice.

Michael JL.
Keep'er Rubber Side Down!

280Km (150K miles) is a lot, but these engines have been shown to go over 200K miles with ease. If the maintence is top notch, you should have no trouble getting anotehr 100k Km's out of it. Keep on the maintence and make sure the everything that should be done is/was done and you should be fine.

If the engine goes anytime soon I would suggest swapping in something else...the 3.5L is nice, but for the price you can have more power...and more aftermarket. I think that is down the line though. I am guessing another 100-150K km before you need to worry about it.

Steve

STEVE... you're the MAN!!!

Thanks again!!



See you on the trails, I hope!
Michael Jan Lobodzinski (Toronto, Ont)

I believe there is also a small oil reservoir in the front driver's side axle that should be periodically be checked and filled. This may help your (shifter) problem..