per the title of my post, I am considering adding a second Rover to my fleet. I am selling my two door Chevy Tahoe, and looking at a 1997 RR 4.6 HSE. First off, I am very taken with the bright yellow(Beluga Yellow, I believe) paint, and I love the black interior with the yellow piping. Second, the car doesn't say it is a Vitesse edition, so I can't say for sure if it is or isn't.
The specs on the car:
- 108K miles, $11,200(slightly negotiable),
- current owner has owned this RR for @40K miles, and is selling to get a small sports car/convertible,
- the oil has been changed every 3k at a local shop(verifiable),
- in his 40k mi of ownership, two EAS sensors and the air compressor have been replaced. He said he has had no additional expenses outside of the oil changes.

My questions are: In the world of the P38 RR, does this sound like a good, somewhat reliable Rover, at a good price? Also, how does the '97 4.6L engine in this vehicle stack up to my wife's '03 Discovery's 4.6L? Lastly, who made the 4.6L in this year RR? Is it a Rover engine?

Thanks, Robby. :confused:
rekocisko@charter.net

The rpice is right about where NADA would put it.

It has many miles left in it, especially if the oil was changed as often as said.

Expect to need a radiator in the near future (100K is about the limit for these aluminum core, plastic tank radiators).

The 4.6 is identical, with the exception of the injection and engine management system (well, essentially identical).

As BeCM failures are not unheard of, check to make sure all of the electrical functions work.

If the EAS goes, it's almost certainly wiser to convert to coils as diagnosis/repair can be very expensive.

If you have someone who can hook it up to autologic/testbook/whatever, you can see what error codes (if any) are in the computers. May give you an idea if there are any problems that you haven't been told about.

I'd also rack the engine out a couple of times to get the built up carbon out of it. Most of the rangies and disos of that era have owners that don't like to rev up the engines as they are civilized transportation. Unforunately the rover engines like to be revved to keep the carbon out. so go out and flog it a little after you buy it to clear out the carbon.

-ben

Thanks for your replies. I think there is a mechanic in town that works on Rovers for the local crowd. We don't have a LR dealership in town, but I wouldn't want to pay dealer service dept prices anyway. I will let ya'll know what happens.

Thanks, Robby.

Thanks for your replies. I think there is a mechanic in town that works on Rovers for the local crowd. We don't have a LR dealership in town, but I wouldn't want to pay dealer service dept prices anyway. I will let ya'll know what happens.

Thanks, Robby.

You can take it to any shop that has OBD-II diagnostic equipment to have it checked out, doesn't need to be a Rover dealer.

Pete

You can take it to any shop that has OBD-II diagnostic equipment to have it checked out, doesn't need to be a Rover dealer.

Pete

An OBD-II scan tool will only be able to read engine parameters. ALL of the other functions on this very computer-dependent vehicle are controlled by proprietary firmware requiring the use of a Rover-specific diagnostic tool.

We commonly see vehicles that are brought to us by other shops who can read "Some" of the other functions, but not all of them. Case in point, the Snap-On tool will control some of the EAS functions, but does not allow for observation of such functions as the state of the pressure switch, nor the compressor thermal overload sensor.

Electronic areas to check are the ABS, EAS and believe it or not, the HeVAC. Due to the location of the fusebox and the penchant of the English to undersize every conductor on these vehicles, the fuseboxes often fail giving rise to crazy anomalous faults in the HeVAC system. Many HeVAC faults can be resolved by the replacement of the fusebox-fortunately, they are not expensive, nor difficult to replce. Also, earlier P38s suffered from poor firmware in the HeVAC controllers resulting in many failures. Failing door locks can result in complete shutdown of the security systems as well.

Wow, I had no idea a RR was this complex. I think that the local guy works on Land Rovers as well as German cars, but I don't know what tools he has available to him. The notion of taking an out of warranty RR to the dealer scares my wallet. I have been thinking that I will extend the warranty on the Disco, once it is about to expire. I have a guy interested in my Tahoe, and am in the middle of the price game, so I should be able to make a decision soon.

Wow, I had no idea a RR was this complex.

You've only just begun! There are computers beneath both seats. Several beneath the driver's seat.

There are two very expensive computers involved in just getting it to crank when you turn the key. I've had to replace both. You need a code from the factory to do it, and you only get one chance to enter it right. You need diagnostics SW too.

But it's a nice truck when it is serviced right.

If only I could convince my wife to let me have her Discovery. That would never happen though.

You can take it to any shop that has OBD-II diagnostic equipment to have it checked out, doesn't need to be a Rover dealer.
I wish that were true - but it isn't. While it doesn't have to go to a dealer, it does have to go to a specialized shop that has the rovacom/autologic/testbook/whatever to read all the information (and stored codes) from all of the computers.

Just OBD-II won't cut it.

If only I could convince my wife to let me have her Discovery. That would never happen though.
Hey, the P38 is a nifty vehicle that IMHO folks are going to be doing more and more with as time goes on.

I have spent a _lot_ more on my Defender than on my P38, and the P38 has been much more reliable and trouble free. (see, it's all your frame of reference!)

Just try to keep the extended warranty on it as long as possible! :)

There are two very expensive computers involved in just getting it to crank when you turn the key. I've had to replace both. You need a code from the factory to do it, and you only get one chance to enter it right. You need diagnostics SW too.

But it's a nice truck when it is serviced right.

If you are using a computer other than the Testbook, you can re-enter the codes. The Testbook automatically electronically locks the BECM so one cannot do any further changes. Unlocking a BECM is an expensive proposition, the software alone costs almost $2000 USD. Also, there are a coupla codes necessary, they are provided when new, but NOBODY keeps the nifty little tag with the barcode and number on it.

Where you can get into trouble is if you put in the first code, but do not enter the key fob code and try to use the key fob, the computer goes into horrendous, "I'm gonna do crazy things and drive you nuts while I do it" mode.

The air suspension can be easily modified to allow for freedom from the electronics, but you have to be willing to work with it. Few folks other than those like us will put up with that tomfoolery :flipoff2:

Hey, the P38 is a nifty vehicle that IMHO folks are going to be doing more and more with as time goes on.

I have spent a _lot_ more on my Defender than on my P38, and the P38 has been much more reliable and trouble free. (see, it's all your frame of reference!)

Just try to keep the extended warranty on it as long as possible! :)


We will most likely extend the warranty we only have about 29K miles on it, so there are still a good 21K miles left. I would guess that the time will expire before the mileage.

And here's what you can do with that P38...

http://pugsly.bechange.com/Defender%20project%20pics/mini-UWH%20Sep-05%2009.JPG

My P38 has had less problems over 75K miles than any other Rover I've had...Defender included.

Pugsly, where'd you get that bumper? I want one but can't find anything out there, and unfortunately don't have the fab skills. I agree that people will be doing alot more with, I just wish I could get a set of gears for less than $500...

cisco-i've put 15000 troubled miles on my p38 and wouldn't trade it for anything. the EAS has been my bigest pain, but I've learned a hell of a lot about how it works, and how to work it. it's actually pretty simple once you unplug the ECU

Pugsly, where'd you get that bumper? I want one but can't find anything out there, and unfortunately don't have the fab skills.

From Alan Bates, rockrover.com. It is by far the beefiest bumper out there - a lot more so than the ARB bumper on my Defender.

I spent the day designing a new battery box for the defender, so that I could drop dual optimas in place of the existing single battery. Will post photos when complete.

Guys, I haven't yet been able to test drive the vehicle, so I don't know anything at this point, but will keep ya'll posted.