: Just bought a 97 Cummins 12v help me mod it!


FuquRagHead
09-23-2005, 04:18 PM
So I picked up a one owner 97 3/4 ton 4x4 a few days back and have been researching different mods. I took it today and had the muffler a cat cut off, I'm sure my neighbors are loving that :flipoff2: I understand the truck has no electronics so any type of programmmer or chip is out of the question. My next step will be some type of intake and filter. A few questions, does my truck have the p7100 injector pump? How much power can the stock auto tranny take? I was thinking about upgrading the injectors and putting a plate in but have no idea what size or brand to go with. This truck will be my daily driver and will be used to tow heavy loads from time to time. My brother sais theres no way I can make it keep up with his 05 cummins, help me prove him wrong :D

m016324
09-23-2005, 04:58 PM
wow your brother is in for a huge susrpise especially when you can cream his truck for about a grand until your tranny blows. basically you got the best 12v there is. yes you have a p pump and you have the 215hp (very disireable) p-pump. With a set of 370 marine injectors a #10 plate (tst), governor springs, a 4 inch exhaust, a decent intake, and maybe orofices you should smoke him until your tranny dies. I have heard that the 47h will hold up to about 350 horse before it start complaining. if you put on a big cooler maybe 400. With those mods you'll be close to 400 horse and about 800 ft/lbs. You're borther won't know what hit his puny 310 horse 600 ft/lb 40k truck.

-ben

MaShInRaM54
09-23-2005, 05:37 PM
A guy I know has a 94 with those same mods plus a bored out exhaust maniflod and a Bell turbo (dunno which one) and he makes damn hear 500 to the ground. Gotta love the 12v's. Tons of potential for way less $$. :flipoff2:

Eskimo
09-23-2005, 06:20 PM
Ben, you're way off, sorry.

His truck has a 180hp P7100 pump like mine.. Not the 215, but it still responds VERY well to basic BOMBs. He also has a 47RE, not a 47RH.

Anyhow, address the tranny FIRST. At least do a torque converter and a valve body. Gauges are next. Pyro (pre-turbo), boost, and trans temp.

NOW you're ready to crank it up. Start with an intake... Scotty II, AFe, etc... Then, a #10 TST plate, and a 3000rpm govenor spring kit. Get the timing set to 16-16.5*, and you'll be a little over 300hp, and close to 750lb-ft at the wheels. You'll smoke that '05, no problem. That's where I'm at right now. (Dyno was done before the timing).

The exhaust will limit you much after this, so a 4" is next up. Then, injectors AND turbo mods at the same time. 370's smoke like crazy and run hot, but they will support a ton of HP. I'm going with stock 215's and a HTT stage III, to give me around 350hp/800lb-ft that's usable.

You don't need delivery valves either. The 180 pumps have the same DV's as the 215's.

By the time you get to the stage of needing injectors, you'll know plenty, and can make your own, highly educated decision.

Oh, before ANYTHING else, tab the KDP!!!!

85blue4runner
09-24-2005, 02:06 PM
check out turbo diesel register. it is the PBB for Cummins & Dodge stuff. You have to be a member to search and post. There are plenty of people on here who know about towing and mods, but there you have a board full of them. Eskimo's ideas seem to be spot on. Had a good friend that did his the other way, cooked the tranny and then HAD to replace it, pushing about 400hp or so. Gauges are very important too. Do some research on BHAF, cheaper than AFE and some of the others and almost as good. You dont say where you are located, but do some research and try to find a GOOD local diesel shop where you can go and see mods and talk to people, etc.

DRM
09-25-2005, 06:52 AM
Here's what I did:

-Gauges
-AFE intake
-#10 plate

I have the 3k GSK somewhere around the house I need to install.

With this setup - I *must* be careful of I can smoke the auto tranny, but it tows great, and pulls nice :)

ASTAR
09-25-2005, 12:01 PM
Eskimo is right on here. Also definately join TDR ( www.turbodieselregister.com ), it's so worth it. Also go to www.dieseltruckresource.com.
Lot's of good info there too.

WOLF359
09-25-2005, 06:41 PM
My 97 has AFE, #8, 3kgsk, 4", 14.5 deg timing and 5 speed.

It smokes my '04 with a a AFE Stage 2, 4", Edge EZ and auto.

Haole
09-30-2005, 01:07 PM
Here's what I did:

-Gauges
-AFE intake
-#10 plate

I have the 3k GSK somewhere around the house I need to install.

With this setup - I *must* be careful of I can smoke the auto tranny, but it tows great, and pulls nice :)

What year is yours? I seem to remember 97.

jstarnes
09-30-2005, 07:07 PM
you will not regret the 3K gsk........ :D

DutchTJ
10-02-2005, 09:51 AM
what axle gears do you have?

On mine with the 4.10 gears the 3K GSK was almost a necessity to wake up the CTD (keeping it in the right RPM range while towing) :D
For the rest it's got:
- BHAF + Outerwears prefilter
- straight piped
- ISSPRO boost/pyro/tranny
- KDP tabbed
- 3kGSK
- MagHytec deep trannypan (stock tranny)
- stock fuel plate (stock position)
- timing 15.5*

And like mentioned I've also been thinking about 370 injectors, but I guess I'll be pushing my luck with the stock tranny (even more) then ;)

basketcasejeep
10-04-2005, 04:52 PM
check out turbo diesel register. it is the PBB for Cummins & Dodge stuff. You have to be a member to search and post. There are plenty of people on here who know about towing and mods, but there you have a board full of them. Eskimo's ideas seem to be spot on. Had a good friend that did his the other way, cooked the tranny and then HAD to replace it, pushing about 400hp or so. Gauges are very important too. Do some research on BHAF, cheaper than AFE and some of the others and almost as good. You dont say where you are located, but do some research and try to find a GOOD local diesel shop where you can go and see mods and talk to people, etc.

I hope your friend went to Jeff Garmon for his trans. work. He seems to know what he's doing. :) He's in McDonough, garmondieselperformance.com IIRC The SETDR is a good local resource too.

The turbodieselregister is a great resource, its worth the 35/yr membership for the magazine alone, not to mention the bulletin board.

MDMIKE
10-05-2005, 01:20 PM
Here's my .02. AFTER you: Tab the kdp and install gauges, grind your factory fuel plate to a #10 or for more fun a #100 (pics available on www.dieseltruckresource.com). Crank the governor springs in a couple of clicks, adjust your idle, buy a BHAF from here : http://www.fleetfilter.com/airfilters.html part# 42790. This setup will come in under $50. Learn how your auto tranny works, drive it accordingly and you'll have a blast! HTH

MIKe

85blue4runner
10-05-2005, 07:16 PM
unfortunately, he did not know about Garmon's at the time, dont recall who he finally went with....We both do now. I have been to Jeffs shop a few times, met him at some diesel drags, looked at an 85 4runner that an employee had for sale and met several people who have trucks bombed by him. For trannies, all the stuff that I have seen is Suncoast, which is great stuff, but $$$$. There is a trans shop a block away that does some stuff for him also. Truck for sale in atlanta now, built by him. I saw it dyno at 600 hp at the rear wheels, making over 1100 pound feet of torque. I read TDR several times per week, though I dont have a membership right now...

FuquRagHead
10-06-2005, 05:49 PM
Here's my .02. AFTER you: Tab the kdp and install gauges, grind your factory fuel plate to a #10 or for more fun a #100 (pics available on www.dieseltruckresource.com). Crank the governor springs in a couple of clicks, adjust your idle, buy a BHAF from here : http://www.fleetfilter.com/airfilters.html part# 42790. This setup will come in under $50. Learn how your auto tranny works, drive it accordingly and you'll have a blast! HTH

MIKe

Run me through how to crank down the governor springs

MDMIKE
10-08-2005, 04:34 PM
Run me through how to crank down the governor springs

Start by removing the intake "horn" just like you would if you were installing a fuel plate. Remove the 4 screws that hold the afc housing on, pull the afc housing off of the pump and set it to the side. Scribe a line marking where the fuel plate was set originally and remove the fuel plate (2 screws). Underneith the fuel plate inside the pump you'll see a large (about the size of a quarter) washer looking thing with 2 indents on either side of it with a stud sticking up through. This is your governor spring retainer. Its got indents on the bottom as well and threads down onto the stud. The tighter you make these springs, the more rpm's it takes the pump to defuel. You might have to bar the engine over to get the springs/retainer to come into view. You can do this with a big socket on the alternator pulley. You might have to cut a notch in a large flat head screwdriver to get it to fit over the stud. Crank the washer clockwise. You should feel the washer "click" every half of a turn or so. I would only go 1 or 2 clicks at the most with the factory springs. Bar the engine over again until the 2nd set of springs come into view. I believe 2 rotations of the motor equal 1 revolution of the gov. springs. Do the same thing to the other set of springs, making sure you tighten them both equally. Put everything back together the way it came apart (unless you want to slide your plate forward a little:p ) You'll probably have to bump your idle up a little bit after doing this. I've gotten the few trucks I've done this to fuel up to 3k rpm before defueling. Make sure you remember how many clicks you tighten the springs just in case you ever decide to do a 3kgsk. The kits are designed to work in the factory setting. Good luck!

MIke

Hillbilly
10-08-2005, 05:01 PM
What year is yours? I seem to remember 97.

I believe I'm correct in saying it's a 98, 12V.