Did little wheeling (http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5623) and now need a set of sliders. :shaking:

So what have you built?

I'm in the same boat. In the last two weeks, I've put a set on a DII, a D90 and a DI.

I can take some pics of AFIRover's Bearmachs if this would help (if we can findthe digicam-damn Shopboy). They attach to the frame outriggers, rather than the sills. He now wants me to build the box sections to attach them to the sills. With luck, this project won't end with me in the eye hospital again!

I have some sketches of D90 sliders on autocad, along with steering guards.

PT

I have built nothing for a disco but I think rockware does it the best. Box section mounts to the frame outriggers and little mounts to the sill with bushings.

BTW why does broken spring mount mean you need sliders?

I have built nothing for a disco but I think rockware does it the best. Box section mounts to the frame outriggers and little mounts to the sill with bushings.

BTW why does broken spring mount mean you need sliders?
Using a high lift on stock rocker kind of makes a mess of them. :flipoff2:

I see.

2"x4" 0.25" wall box with 2" square outriggers welded and guesseted to the frame.

That is ugly if you make it strait. To make it look right it has to have a bend to it.

OS if you give me a yellow star on credit I'll post pics of my special recipe sliders. I'll pay you back I swear!

JP

I've had great success with box welded onto the bottom of the sills.
60x40x4 mm
Onto this I've welded pre bent pipe bends and pipe with 37mm outer dimension. Next time I will go up one size and perhaps even weld the next size again on the bottom of the tube. It has bent a bit, but as Anders said when I tested them: "If they hold up to this, they'll hold very fine for everyone else" :flipoff2:
Lets put it this way. On my unlifted RRC with 7.50-16 MichelinXCL (32") I went the trails that people run with lifted defenders and 33", so about 4-5" more sill clearance. On these trails it's stones and rocks that's the limiting factor. With these slides I could just feel my way forward and any noise below was either sliders, tow hitch or frame. Or so I thought until a recent thread made me look at E-brake drum :rolleyes:

Anyway. Very easy to accomplish. Does not look too booty fab. I am no fan of the long distance between slider and attachement point in frame when running frame mounted sliders on RRC/D1.

Do not have good pics here at work. Found some on the interweb, especially one where the highlift capabilities are shown.
Better pics available at home if needed.

OS if you give me a yellow star on credit I'll post pics of my special recipe sliders. I'll pay you back I swear!

JP
Thanks Pendy, but I already have one board member with his hand into my wallet!

tobbjo - great work! no lift, no bumper, no problem! I wheeled my rangie like that for a long time, except with 235/85's. after a couple years the stock springs were so worn they could barely keep the truck off the bump stops on level ground. anyway -

OS - what do you want - 200lbs of steel that you don't necessarily need, or jack points? I found this past sunday - i broke a rear spring :nuke: - that with the plastic sill removed, using the stock sill as a jack point with my jack-all was just fine; didn't budge.

anyway - that got me to thinking that I could probably cut the sill away on each end just enough to put the hi-lift tongue onto the box sill. To do it right, take off the sills and reinforce the jack-point with a small rectangular length of of strap steel screwed into there as a wear pad and to distribute the load, then put the plastic sills back on. just a thought -

Is there a consensus on frame versus sill mounting? I question the value of allowing the body to flex independently of the frame and wonder if there might not be an advantage to having the slider act to some extent to limit this flex. Bearmach and Rockware attach theirs to the frame whereas Rovertym and Slickrock use the box sections to mount to the sill.

I've spoken with several folks concerning the amount of radius necessary to match the body lines. One fellow claimed to have measured/extrapolated/pulled out of his ass a number of somewhere in the range of 600". In discussions with Dave Lucas, we discussed the relative merits of rolling this radius versus slitting and bending and rewelding. Being lazy, I'll likely make mine straight and try to find an attractive (?) way to fill the gap.

Pendy-send me your pcis and I'll post them up-if you're willing to share your super-cool proprietary methods with the likes of me :flipoff2:

Get the check yet?

Peace,
PT

PT - you willing to share those Autocad files?

PT - you willing to share those Autocad files?

Right now, all I have are the D90 sliders. It will be a coupla days 'til I can get the Disco ones done.

Part of the reason I did the sketches and had them done up in CAD was in the event anyone wanted them!

Yesterday I was driving next to a Grand Cherokee, two body styles before, and was checking out his sliders. I think they were 2x4, straight and I couldn't tell how they were mounted.

But, what I noticed was they were mounted below and outside the door sill. Now I know that those trucks are some sort of unibody so you couldn't remove the "sill cover" that our RRC and Disco's have but it got me thinking along the lines if I were to make my own sliders I might play with the idea of leaving the existing sill covers or maybe triming them to allow for a tighter fit of straight sliders which would be frame mounted. This might eliminate the problem of contour matching. It may not work worth a jack, but I haven't seen any options I really like. I also liked how they stuck out to be flush with the fender wells (door protection and a really nice step, my wife is short)

Now Pendy and PT, share with the class please.

Now Pendy and PT, share with the class please.

I need one more dimension from a Defender and my drawings will be complete. We can wait until Monday or Tuesday for me to measure a client's 90, or someone with a kind heart (around here? Yeah right :flipoff2: ) can provide me with the width of the bulkhead where it bolts to the frame outrigger so that I can determine the size of channel needed for the front attachment point.

PT

Its a Series, but same idea could be used for any vehicle I imagine.
2x3 tube with capped ends. Mounted to frame.

http://www.aloharovers.com/howto/sills/03.jpg

I need one more dimension from a Defender and my drawings will be complete. We can wait until Monday or Tuesday for me to measure a client's 90, or someone with a kind heart (around here? Yeah right :flipoff2: ) can provide me with the width of the bulkhead where it bolts to the frame outrigger so that I can determine the size of channel needed for the front attachment point.

PT

PT, my experience from fitting Equipe4x4 sliders on Defenders has taught me that exact dimensions from one truck is useless on another. You need ratchet straps, a big sledge, crowbar, drill, angle grinder, and welder to fit them.
The sliders are jig built, the trucks I don't know.

PT, my experience from fitting Equipe4x4 sliders on Defenders has taught me that exact dimensions from one truck is useless on another. You need ratchet straps, a big sledge, crowbar, drill, angle grinder, and welder to fit them.
The sliders are jig built, the trucks I don't know.

I have foolishly tried to line Defender sliders up with things like body panels, only to find that the body panels aren't straight (horizontally, nor vertically). The last one, I tried to measure out from the frame to line the sliders up. The body apparently wasn't square to the frame! I ended up eye-balling it to where they looked the most pleasing.

On my D1 I boxed the sill in with 3/8" and 1/4" and then added the 2x4 tube to protect under the doors. If you just weld the tube flush to the fabricated "box" it will look crooked to the body.........but if you bolt up the box then you can line up the tube with the door edge and tack it. On mine I had to space it out 1/4 to 3/8" at the front (I think) for it to look somewhat straight with the body. It's not as nice as a radius for what ever size outer tube you use but it looks pretty good (IMHO) and it's easy and hijackable. :cool2:

Hope the pics help.........http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1163/4050206/8418924/113305799.jpg

andhttp://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1163/4050206/8418924/113305570.jpg

andhttp://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL1163/4050206/8418924/113305605.jpg

On my D1 I boxed the sill in with 3/8" and 1/4" and then added the 2x4 tube to protect under the doors. If you just weld the tube flush to the fabricated "box" it will look crooked to the body.........but if you bolt up the box then you can line up the tube with the door edge and tack it. On mine I had to space it out 1/4 to 3/8" at the front (I think) for it to look somewhat straight with the body. It's not as nice as a radius for what ever size outer tube you use but it looks pretty good (IMHO) and it's easy and hijackable. :cool2:
Looks like the D.A.P disco.

But it's not............. :flipoff2:

Finally, something that I can humbley contribute to this group that I have been leaching knowledge and experience off of for years.

Here is my take on the slider issue for my 91 RRC.

All the important dimensions are in the text on this page.

http://www.roverlinks.com/howto/Sliders.shtml

There is a "fabulous" multicolored drawing at the bottom of the page to show the crossection.

As descibed in the text, I did the cut bend and weld treatment. The width of a sawzall blade 17 inches from either end.

As you will see from the pictures the truck is not the straghtest and I built the sliders in place by putting the pieces up on a jack or jackstands and tacking them where I wanted it. Then dropped them down for welding. It was my first welding project but they have taken a couple of huge impacts with out bending or apparently moving.

Nice job on the "cut and bend" radius........it fits better than mine and was probably just as easy.

ditto on the bend- i have the same thing as byrd but mine are 2x2 and believe me you when i say they have had the shit bbeat out of them and they've held up great for 3 years.

I used a peice of channel that went under the door. It runs the full length of the door. Four tubes mount it to the frame. another tube goes on the outside and runs the full length of the door. It sticks out about two inches. The only thing I would change is the outside tube. I would probally make it stick out another couple of inches.