View Full Version : S-II front crossmember fabrimicatin
Munchies
09-26-2005, 11:19 PM
I had a few tins of kalibraten fluid and saw a pice of steel that looked like a nice new front crossmember. Held it up and its the right size. Whats the best way to do it? I want it to be extreme beef secure. Whats the best way to cut the stock frame to achieve the greatest area to burn together? box tube is 4x4x1/4
http://www.wootworx.com/images/scout/crossm/IMG_1638%20(Small).JPG
http://www.wootworx.com/images/scout/crossm/IMG_1640%20(Small).JPG
Ideas?
Urban Wheeler
09-27-2005, 06:59 AM
Why?
19scout77
09-27-2005, 08:08 AM
Also, What's up with your shackles?
Munchies
09-27-2005, 09:33 AM
The passenger is forward because of the injuries it sustained last weekend. Its parked till I swap out for the 44044's.
Munchies
09-27-2005, 09:34 AM
Why?
why not?
Bo185
09-27-2005, 10:10 AM
Sweet chair!
472Scout
09-27-2005, 05:17 PM
You are in over your head.
Munchies
09-27-2005, 05:30 PM
Really now? I think the way i have it drawn on the crossmember in silver sharpie is good. Notch each side so the new box tube fits inside it so I can weld the top front and bottom. It just sucks, I wont be able to burn in ont the back side of the box tube to the frame, because of the rad, and such in the way. I have it braced right now to keep it from spreading/contracting once I whack the stock off. I guess I can do gussets on the top and bottom, like the factory sort of.
Urban Wheeler
09-27-2005, 08:14 PM
why not?
What are you going to gain? The only reason I see to cut out the old one is to move it and I don't think you want to do that.
I think it would be a waste of time, energy, and material.
Munchies
09-27-2005, 08:19 PM
Well I figure I'd either make a front crossmember out of it, or the middle section of a bumper. Use this positioned exactly so with 2x4 1/4 box tube attached like wings to either side, then angle gusset each side, and plate on either side of it. maybe some ms paint schematics to come :flipoff2:
what else do i do with this steel. its taking up room, and rusting. and probably is worth about 40 bux at the local yard when new.???! Id hate to scrap it.
SSGTWC
09-27-2005, 09:00 PM
Well I figure I'd either make a front crossmember out of it, or the middle section of a bumper. Use this positioned exactly so with 2x4 1/4 box tube attached like wings to either side, then angle gusset each side, and plate on either side of it. maybe some ms paint schematics to come :flipoff2:
what else do i do with this steel. its taking up room, and rusting. and probably is worth about 40 bux at the local yard when new.???! Id hate to scrap it.
Taking up room? What room? Just save that scrap, put it in the corner, use it for something else later that you know you will need it for, and forget about it.
Holy Christ....like Urban Wheeler stated it seems like a waste of time. Don't go cuttin into shit that don't need cuttin. Leave it the fawk alone!
Munchies
09-27-2005, 10:20 PM
alright bitches! ill find room in our twisted garage of parts to build any pos you want.
And it was going to be a nice crossmember!
TheCopperCowboy
09-27-2005, 11:46 PM
what else do i do with this steel. its taking up room, and rusting. and probably is worth about 40 bux at the local yard when new.???! Id hate to scrap it.
I have a whole garage full of crossmembers. I'm building wheelers out of them. :flipoff2:
Munchies
09-28-2005, 12:14 AM
yah i had it coming
1tonscout
09-28-2005, 01:33 AM
i Say you do it ive been planning on doing the same thing. I keep ripping my frame. I plan on using the same type of steel and mounting my shackle mounts there. Did you bend your spring is that why your shackle is collapsed? Are you spring over? When i did my axle swap to full withs my shackles kept doing that so i went to a longer shackle then the frame started ripping. Ive given up on the old week spots which were re-welded and gusseted with angle. But i have the same concern about wheter or not what i weld to will bestrong enough or will it start ripping there. A lil info on my rig is fullwith 44 front welded, 14 bolt rear detroit soa, 345, 727, 35in boggers.
Munchies
09-28-2005, 02:01 AM
Im going to go 44044 3'' wagoneer spring up front SOA. right now its sua 4'' lift springs
The shackle is forward because i tore the spring hanger and fram apart . A nice big 6 inch long chink of frame is gone :) So I plated over it for now to keep it from kraking. Then welded the hanger back on, but couldnt get it as far back as stock (didnt have the tools..ratchet strap). so it is good enough to move it around the garage and in and out the driveway, until i get goin on some hardcore frame repairs. going to use d&c spring hangers and shackle mounts to go RS. ANd one reason I wanted to do it was to have a nice beef surface to weld the new bling bling hangers on. although both rear main leafs are bent because the stock shackles flipped and I hit some sand whoop's and there ready to crack now. SUA IS STUPID!. Cant wait for my new springs and suspension :) And my main crossmember question WAS. Whats the best way to cut the frame for the most strength in my welds? can someone MSPAINT the way they would do it?
1tonscout
09-28-2005, 02:08 AM
The first time i ripped my frame sounds exactly the same as yours. I plan on doing the same spring swap as well and also wanted something sturdier to mount to. Hoping to start mine this weekend. Keep me posted if you get any progress done. Thanks
Snoopy
09-28-2005, 08:21 AM
I'd use a plasma to notch the front and top side out of the stock crossmember, then trim down the 4x4 box to fit inside ~ plate the ends, and remount the shackles ~ or go RS ( ;) ) and put the towers forward quite a bit. That will net you about 2-3" of wheel base and make up for what you'll lose with the 44044s.
vBulletin® v3.7.3, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.