okay, I know it's been done before. I did have some pictures on my computer of a Blue Bronco II with a doubler, I can't remember the owners name, I think it was "tom". Also, there is a guy named "ALX" on RRORC that has built on.

I finally pulled the 1350 out of my parts ranger and I am getting ready to take it apart. Basically, what do I need to do, specifically about joining to 2 cases together, sealing the case that gets separated and the front output cut off, and connecting the 2 cases, shaft wise.

Any help, or advice? and for the case that doesn't get cut up, I was going to use the 1350 in my BII now, or should I try and find a 1354 instead?

I did this with a BW1356/NP205. I am pretty sure the same methods will be used for a BW1350/1354. The first transfer case in line needs to be slip yoke rear, if I am not mistaken these are the only ford cases that are 31 spline output. What I did was cut off the front output section for the BW case at one of the ribs, I cut a 1/4" steel plate to cover it and drilled it for like 16 counter sunk allen head #10 machine screws and tapped the case. I belt sanded the cut edge down nice and smooth, RTVed it and and bolted it together. This has nearly a whole season on it and has not leaked at all. You have it a bit easier because your case is cast aluminium not magnesium and it should be fairly easy to have a aluminum plate welded over where the front output was. I cut off about 1" (if memory serves) from the output shaft. I coppied the BW tailcone mouting pattern in 1/2" plate and made a flange to fit that case and I used a NP205 gasket to make the other flange. In the middle is about 3-4 inches of 5 inch sched 40 pipe. I welded 2 passes around it in the hopes that it would not leak and it has not leaked at all at the adapter either. I bolted both flanges to the Tcases and put the piece of pipe in the middle, assembled it all and tacked the pipe to the flanges, disassembled and welded it. You should have a seperate cross member for each Tcase as the factory mid mount was never designed to handle all that weight and leverage. All in all it took me a couple days to do and it works great. The biggest issue I had was getting useable shift linkage w/ a twin stick 205 (in the pictures it is just mocked up) and finding a carrier/pillow block bearing that would keep my front d.s. out of the transmission pan. Below are the pictures. I have more of the individual steps going into the build, but I am to tired to dig them up right now. Let me know if you want more, I will find them later.

http://www.rollmeover.com/jeepboard/low_460drtrn2_002.jpg

http://www.rollmeover.com/jeepboard/low_460drtrn2_003.jpg


Good luck,
Jason

Here's the thread at RRORC:

http://www.rrorc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21585

here's the same thing...just a little more expensive. just an option if you can't/don't want to do it yourselfhttp://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/
anyone running one of these doublers on a b2 with stock wheelbase with...lets say 36's or more...? how much does it shorten you driveline?
::highjack off::

here's the same thing...just a little more expensive. just an option if you can't/don't want to do it yourselfhttp://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/
anyone running one of these doublers on a b2 with stock wheelbase with...lets say 36's or more...? how much does it shorten you driveline?
::highjack off::


The guy that build one here http://forum.sanjuanrockcrawlers.com/index.php?s=0 gave me the idea, and he is running a stock WB B2. Log in and search for free doubler, you will find the thread. I am running it in a CJ7 w/ about a 22" rear ds and dont have any problems.

Later,
Jason

here's the same thing...just a little more expensive. just an option if you can't/don't want to do it yourselfhttp://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/

::highjack off::

they apparently sold their last unit. Plus, I personally think it would be cool to say "yea, I built that all-ford doubler myself"

thanks for the linky ryan! I couldn't find it for some reason...:D

This is the best write up I have found for RBV doublers like you are talking about.

http://www.sbe.mtu.edu/users/etvaugha/explorer/doubler1.htm

I am doing a 1356/np205 doubler as short as possible, loosing the rear half of the case.

build thread. http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6683383#post6683383

This is the best write up I have found for RBV doublers like you are talking about.

http://www.sbe.mtu.edu/users/etvaugha/explorer/doubler1.htm

the welded shaft shit breaks... don't even waste your time. :laughing:

I have T&M doubler #2... tom doesn't make them anymore though. Honestly I'd just buy one from 4x4-fab or DD machine... they both are very nice kits. The main item is the shaft, if you shaft is bootyfab'd... it's gonna leave you hangin.

Do you have evidence that the press fit + weld is no good?

Do you have evidence that the press fit + weld is no good?

call a machine shop and ask...when the guy stops laughin...take that as a yes...:D

it will last for a bit..but any real torque and it'll grenade..

New in box, never used. Here is a link to the thread in the for sale section of this board...http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=569871

PM me if you are interested.

Can the same process be followed for a 1345?

Do you have evidence that the press fit + weld is no good?

I personally know of 3 that were done this way and they all broke under rigs that didn't get wheeled 1/2 as hard as I wheel mine. I'll have to ask my brother if he still has his... this was a few years ago, so maybe not.

Where did it break? did the pressed in part slip or did the machined down shaft snap?

Honestly it appears that I can cut the slip yoke splined portion plus 3 inches off and not even need to machine it to press it into a machined hole in the remaining shaft.

I am VERY leary about the forced insertion process and would like more input from people with experience and not just opinions, that's why I asked.

Where did it break? did the pressed in part slip or did the machined down shaft snap?

Honestly it appears that I can cut the slip yoke splined portion plus 3 inches off and not even need to machine it to press it into a machined hole in the remaining shaft.

I am VERY leary about the forced insertion process and would like more input from people with experience and not just opinions, that's why I asked.

its the same principal as sleeving 2 pieces of tubing when you connect them...it transfers some of the stress from the edge further down inside the other piece...helps reduce a stress point...

Gremmy just posted up on www.rrorc.com that he's got 4 units not spoken for and ready to be shipped!!

I'd just buy one from 4x4-fab or DD machine


got any links.... ?????

google is being less than cooperative...

www.4xfab.com he's only got one stubler left

dd is in the tranny and t-case section on the BB

D.D. Machine
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=465032

a few people have said duff (D&D) is good but He did not PM me back so I ordered a Stubler Grem has been on it with me this far and I should have it late next week.

I bought one of duff d&d machine's kit would buy another one if needed it

has anybody done a 1350 doubler to a EB D20.....???? are they the same bolt pattern..????

has anybody done a 1350 doubler to a EB D20.....???? are they the same bolt pattern..????

It was done. A guy buy the name Patov. I think I've seen him here.

Here are a couple pictures I had saved.

has anybody done a 1350 doubler to a EB D20.....???? are they the same bolt pattern..????


No they are not the same bolt pattern.

I had a 231 to eb 20 built with a simular shaft made and I didn't like the way it turned out. Need to do some more work on it. But I have got to get one a couple other projects finished before I get back to it.
The problem I had with the 231 was I had to flip the case to clear the old output. Just opens another can of worms.
I like the way the small b2 cases fit in front of it though that looks awesome!
Jake

the welded shaft shit breaks... don't even waste your time. :laughing:

I have T&M doubler #2... tom doesn't make them anymore though. Honestly I'd just buy one from 4x4-fab or DD machine... they both are very nice kits. The main item is the shaft, if you shaft is bootyfab'd... it's gonna leave you hangin.

That adapter shaft is the weakest component of this setup. But...this actually isn't a problem if:

1. The shaft is made correctly, and
2. You don't put the doubler case in LO and leave the t-case in HI

I've never had a problem with mine. The broken shafts I've seen occured when the driver was romping on it with just the doubler case in low.

I think I'm going to update the writeup with that warning, as well as some more details on how the shaft should be made.

I think I'm going to update the writeup with that warning, as well as some more details on how the shaft should be made.

please do...

please do...

The writeup has been updated with more details on the shaft.

2. You don't put the doubler case in LO and leave the t-case in HI

I've never had a problem with mine. The broken shafts I've seen occured when the driver was romping on it with just the doubler case in low.

what fun is that? 2wd low range peel outs are cool :flipoff2:

what fun is that? 2wd low range peel outs are cool :flipoff2:

As long as you have manual locking front hubs you can still do 'em.

As long as you have manual locking front hubs you can still do 'em.

please RE READ all the above posts....

KthanksBye:shaking:

As long as you have manual locking front hubs you can still do 'em.

report back once you graduate from wheeling at the mall. :laughing:

report back once you graduate from wheeling at the mall. :laughing:

This is me pulling into a parking spot at my local mall:

http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/180/74/6607066/n6607066_30668712_167.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/180/74/6607066/n6607066_30668713_462.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/180/74/6607066/n6607066_30668717_1640.jpg

My body damage was caused by people opening their doors into the side of my truck at the mall, not from offroading. :laughing:

Finally got mine in

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/doubler/Doublerinst001.jpg

Looks real good. How do you like it?

Looks real good. How do you like it?

Haven't wheeled with it yet Evan. But it's damn slow!:smokin:

This is me pulling into a parking spot at my local mall:

http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/180/74/6607066/n6607066_30668712_167.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/180/74/6607066/n6607066_30668713_462.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v67/180/74/6607066/n6607066_30668717_1640.jpg

My body damage was caused by people opening their doors into the side of my truck at the mall, not from offroading. :laughing:

wow, hardcore fo sho'... good thing you had a spotter. :flipoff2:

and a double stacked bumper 9" body lift maybe if i put 31's on my ranger id be super slow and run over huge rocks and have my spare up high to help out with my high center of gravity

and a double stacked bumper 9" body lift maybe if i put 31's on my ranger id be super slow and run over huge rocks and have my spare up high to help out with my high center of gravity

Yeah, I've thought about that tire. It probably does hurt my CG. I just don't know where else to put it!

My body lift is 3". Tires are 33x14 Boggers rear and 33x12.5 Swampers front.

wow, hardcore fo sho'... good thing you had a spotter. :flipoff2:

DAMMIT...I just shot pepsi out my nose!!:laughing::laughing::laughing:


I think I can get my van up that..


and DAM...I thought CLEVELAND was bad for vehicle rust!!:eek:

DAMMIT...I just shot pepsi out my nose!!:laughing::laughing::laughing:



DR's just jealous, cuz if it was him driving, only the tire on the roof would be the one touching the ground.:shaking:

I think I can get my van up that..


Ummm, good luck with that. :shaking:

DR's just jealous, cuz if it was him driving, only the tire on the roof would be the one touching the ground.:shaking::laughing::laughing::laughing:

Ummm, good luck with that. :shaking:
heck..no problem from those pictures...

course Im so good at wheelin...I needed a challange..so I put my sploder away and bought a JEEP....needed something less capable..:flipoff2:

see....I got pictures to PROVE I can do it!!:D

I think I drove over that on the way TO the trail..... :D

see....I got pictures to PROVE I can do it!!:D


:shaking::shaking:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/Insult%20badges/youmaynotbeasgayas2zx.jpg

:shaking::shaking:

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/Insult%20badges/youmaynotbeasgayas2zx.jpg

:D

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd124/wanderer351/junk/potkettleblack.jpg

DR's just jealous, cuz if it was him driving, only the tire on the roof would be the one touching the ground.:shaking:

wow... you finally said something I can agree with :flipoff2:

Awesome van. And even better image editing skills.