Hello all,

Just wondering about bleeding my brakes. I bought the Motive bleeder. That thing is really nice!!!( A few problems with getting it to seal but once I got it it was soooooooooooooooooo easy!!!!

Ok maybe not that easy because I would not be asking a question!

Can you bleed the acumalator with the Motive bleeder?? I only get a tiny amount of fluid, then nothing.

The manual says to let the pump "bleed" it in 3-4 second intervals until the fluid is bubble free. I would have thought that I could bleed that sucker same as everything else.
One way valve or something??

Any and ALL help is appreciated!!!!
JC

Do you have the key on when doing this? IIRC, the key must be on (of course, I believe the FSM also calls for dead chickens, the Lucas mantra, incense etc.).

I have used my motive bleeder on many Rovers and don't remember there being any difficulty. Now, I won't even try to bleed a truck without the motive.

I've only bled my brakes about 5 times now between two rangies, but I can't say I've enjoyed using the powerbleeder on these truckes. For one thing, it sure is a royal pain in the ass getting those caps to seal onto the reservoir.

I also learned the hard way that you don't want to run out of fluid with those things ... I forced in enough air last time at one point to render the MC completely useless. I'm not sure if it just got too low or if the seal to the reservoir broke; whatever it was, I pumped in alot of air. Took forever to bleed the effin MC after that. I thought the MC was dead until Pendy suggested to try de-pressurizing the hydraulicly charged reservoir and re-bleeding everything again, starting with the MC. The master gurgled for a good 10 minutes before I proceeded on. Once I re-bled everything from square one everything was well and fine.

I think an extra person is worth much more than the powerbleeder, IMO. Having a person there to actuate the brake pedal while another is down watching the fluid at the caliper is alot more efficient, and makes for a much better bleeding job. I recruited my spouse for this task, and kept her happy with a cold supply of sierra pale while toiling away at the pedal.

At most the powerbleeder is automating the process of dumping in extra fluid unless the pressures are really high, at which point you risk blowing seals in the MC. I finally ditched using it, and just kept an eye on the fluid level after bleeding each port and adding to it manually.

Many are going to try and call BS on this post and that's fine, but I also find that most are bleeding their brakes as pro-active maintenance, which is a lot different than having to bleed them after opening up the system to replace lines, or failed ABS components. Starting from a system that was open to the atmosphere is much more time consuming than just freshening up the fluid.

Bottom line - having someone actuate the pedal works a lot better.

my .03

unless the pressures are really high, at which point you risk blowing seals in the MC.

Well, I won't raise the flag as you're entitled to your opinion :flipoff2: But, I have two comments to make. First off, Disco ABS systems are such a PITA to effectively bleed if you have removed any component that pressure bleeding is mandatory. Secondly, with respect to your comment about the high pressures causing problems, one of my clients built the brake bleeding system for the local GM truck plant. They specified a bleeder pressure of 150 psi:eek: . He said that the first time he saw his machine being used, it scared him shitless watching the reservoir expand and bulge, but now we know why the factory process is better than anything we could ever do at home or in the shop.

Additionally, the pressure bleeder never misunderstands a command of "pedal down", or releases the pedal before you're finished tightening the bleeder. I can't understand why you guys have such difficulty sealing the fitting:shaking:

Searover,
I thought you were one of the guys that absolutely loved it in the past!?
I'm bleeding with the Motive and the hydro pump as we speak. Hopefully all goes well!

PT- I think I screwed myself with the sealing problem- got frustrated and took out the pipe wrench-sealed good yesterday! Today it only sealed when I flipped the gasket in the cap.( no wrench!!!)
I still love this thing.-One man job..... but be aware of the fluid level whichever way you go!
JC

<< I thought you were one of the guys that absolutely loved it in the past!?>>

I did at first! But after a few more times of bleeding the brakes with it, it started to annoy me more and more - especially when it seemed to be taking forever to get everything bled down and getting it to seal.

Paul - the 150psi might work on discos, but I've been told not to use much pressure on the rangie ABS system. Maybe this was a falsehood, and I should pump the bugger up to make it more effective.

Last time I used it I couldn't get any more air from the ports under the powerbleeder. I get my helper out to actuate the pedal, and there was tons of air left in there so i kind of had a "wtf" moment and moved on without it. What PSI do you use when working on RRC's?

Paul - the 150psi might work on discos,

What PSI do you use when working on RRC's?

I'm not gonna say that I'D ever use that much pressure, just that GM uses that kinda pressure on their pickups made locally. I merely offered that as an example.

Personally, I find anything between ten and 15 PSI to be effective.More is hard to achieve with the Motive and less is ineffective.

I've tried to bleed RC using a blind process and also usingthe FSM method-curiously, the FSM method works much better :flipoff2:

PT

I am working on my buddies 2000 Land Rover Discovery II.

The brakes on this thing are ....interesting.

So I got the adapter from Motive, it is the universal with the J screws and the chain.

After much tinkering, the resevoir is too big for the adapter, there is no way to secure the adaptor.

This is the large square resevoir.

Motive is unsure which adapter to use, since this one was supposed to work.

Is there something special about the 2000 disco? what adapter's are you using?

Thanks,
Ben

PS Even though it isn't my truck, I have always wanted one of these, so working on his is as close as it is going to get for a while.

I am working on my buddies 2000 Land Rover Discovery II.

The brakes on this thing are ....interesting.

So I got the adapter from Motive, it is the universal with the J screws and the chain.

After much tinkering, the resevoir is too big for the adapter, there is no way to secure the adaptor.

This is the large square resevoir.

Motive is unsure which adapter to use, since this one was supposed to work.

Is there something special about the 2000 disco? what adapter's are you using?

Thanks,
Ben

PS Even though it isn't my truck, I have always wanted one of these, so working on his is as close as it is going to get for a while.


It's the metric screw-on fitting that fits the Jags, BMWs, etc. It's an almost universal european fitting. 45 m//m threaded cap.

Well that would be awesome, since that is the other fitting I have.

I was just confused because the disco resevoir cap was a quarter turn and off type cap, sort of like a ford Super Duty cap. Where as my BMW style cap definately screws down.

This disco has a the cap with the float on it and a sensor connector
( to tell if you are low on brake fluid?)

I would love for it to be the german/euro style but I fear it may not be.

Well that would be awesome, since that is the other fitting I have.

I was just confused because the disco resevoir cap was a quarter turn and off type cap, sort of like a ford Super Duty cap. Where as my BMW style cap definately screws down.

This disco has a the cap with the float on it and a sensor connector
( to tell if you are low on brake fluid?)

I would love for it to be the german/euro style but I fear it may not be.

OK, I blew it! I forgot that the DIIs have the quarter turn cap...

Now that I've blown my creidibility, perhaps using the 45 m/m as a reference, you might be able to find a suitable fitting.

Sorry to have misled you.

PT

Not to worry at all, when the manufacturer tells me they don't know what will fit, I figure it probably a little known item.

But they didn't know it was 45 mm (so thank you very much for that fact), and that should allow me to figure out solution that is cheaper than buying a cap from the dealer and modifying it to work.

The pedal is sooo soft on this truck, that they only way to get anything like a regular feel is to give them a pump before using them.

Not to be a total leach, but since I don't have a shop manual for this thing (it being my buddies truck and all) could you send me in the right direction on anything funky about bleeding these brakes?

I have read a few post's about needing to have the ignition turned on to run power to the ABS; but don't know if that is valid for this odd model.

(powering the ABS is totally useless on a BMW Mini, but those boards abound with people coming up with quite complicated ways of "bleeding" those very simple brakes).

Thank you.

ps if I do come up with some simple way for a 2000 disco II to use a motive power bleeder, I will most certainly post it, but I think when I finally buy one for myself, that particular land rover is off the list.

1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.

2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.

3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.

1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.

2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.

3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.

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