Welcome to the next installment of the

Topic of the Week

The subject for the week is hydraulic steering solutions - and we're not just talking about stock type power assist either.

Some suggested points of discussion:
- orbitals
- ram assist
- single vs double ended rams
- pumps

I'm going to toss out the first question.

On a ram assist type steering, how do you match the ram extension to the movement provided by the steering box?

Wouldn't the ram be running either behind or ahead of the movement of the pitman arm?

Or is it that because the hydraulic system is closed, the ram only helps when necessary, and is just pushed/pulled along when it's not needed???

Mo - good question, but i have a much simpler one...

i plan on moving my front axle forward around 5-6 inches and i think it might create problems with the steering. i have thought about using double ended high steer arms to move the tie rod behind the axle, but i think the steering box would still have to be moved forward b/c of the lateral angle of the drag link, therefore negating the need to go behind the axle, yet necessitating extending the frame, which seems like a pain that i dont want to deal with. anyway, full hydraulic steering would fix all these clearance problems, but my YJ is a daily driver...is full hydraulic steering illegal on the road or even safe? if not- got any solutions you know for the above? thanks!!!

- jake

I am giong full hydro and I was needing to know what valve to get and does anyone have any pics of the valve setup on a steering shaft

How much are the valves ?


Thanks for the totw It has helped alot and save alot of time looking everything up

is the power steering pump enough to run full hydro if you are running hydro boost brakes

so many questions and so few answers.....

my question...is there any way to drill the saganaw ps/pump without drilling through the front round cover... i see that AGR's doesnt drill through the cover... i am wanting to do this on my 98 TJ

Call me a poser if you want, but my solution was to take it to Dean :D I am glad I did too, he did an awesome job ;)

Originally posted by Mo
I'm going to toss out the first question.

On a ram assist type steering, how do you match the ram extension to the movement provided by the steering box?

Wouldn't the ram be running either behind or ahead of the movement of the pitman arm?

Or is it that because the hydraulic system is closed, the ram only helps when necessary, and is just pushed/pulled along when it's not needed???

I can see your concern but the ram does not have to be matched in any way particular. However, the ram MUST have the same amount or more of travel as compared to the pitman arm travel. When you turn all the way to lock you can here the PS pump make a different noise. That is because once the box is all the way to lock it dumps the pressure. When this happens it will also dump the pressure to the ram because the pressure is provided from the box. Once the box dumps the pressure it stops at the ram also. This will stop the ram from actuating any further.

This make any sense? :D

The box and ram work together and ssplit the amount of force because they are tied together. The amount of PSI that is needed to do the job is devided between the two but depending on ram size they don't nessisarily do the same amout of work. If you had a 1" dia. ram it woulnd not take as much of the load of the box as a 3.5" ram. The reason why you don't use a 3.5" ram is because the pump can't push enough fluid at the correct pressure to give it any speed or force. The standard amount of pitman arm travel is 8" so as long as you get a ram that has that much through then you are good to go. Here are a few pic.s of my simple setup. 78 monte carlo box and a 2"X8" ram (soon to be a 1.5" ram)






http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/ram1.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/ram2.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/ram3.jpg http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/ram4.jpg

Originally posted by 66CJdean
The box and ram work together and ssplit the amount of force because they are tied together.

Answers my question perfectly. I thought the ram and the steering box would be on different circuits... never even occurred to me that they'd be tied together like that. Go figure.

Originally posted by Mo
On a ram assist type steering, how do you match the ram extension to the movement provided by the steering box?

Wouldn't the ram be running either behind or ahead of the movement of the pitman arm?

i don't think you can match them perfect, (but it don't matter)
when i first installed mine, i could tell that my steering was quicker when i started turning the wheel. (i'm using a 8" stroke, 1.5" bore cylinder) a larger bore ie 2", would be slower, and stronger......also i can tell mine turns faster one direction than the other...(i'm sure this is because the piston surface in the ram is greater on one side, due to the rod diameter)

i've got a page made up about mine here http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/steering.html

also i drilled the "Caps" on my box, mainly because i could remove them and install the fitting without contaminating everything else......

is the power steering pump enough to run full hydro?

wheres the best place to buy the rams and how much do they cost? any particular brand? so is 1.5" better than 2" or what?

I got my 1.5 x8 from a local hydraulics place for about $140 with all the hoses and fittings too. You can get 2x8s at TSC or Northern Tool for about $70(after shipping or tax). The 2x8 will have a slower response time than the 1.5.....1.5 is probably better for street driven rigs.

I just looked in the northen catalouge today and found the 1.5 bore and 8 inch stroke for about 50 dollars Plus all the fittings and so forth. I already modified my steering box to kick up the pressure and volume(found the info at this site) http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
So the next question is who has a good write up on where to drill and tap the steering box???? I can build this conversion for much cheaper than I thought. With all the info I have gotten on this board it is now on my to do list......

Originally posted by JeeperJake
Mo - good question, but i have a much simpler one...

i plan on moving my front axle forward around 5-6 inches and i think it might create problems with the steering. i have thought about using double ended high steer arms to move the tie rod behind the axle, but i think the steering box would still have to be moved forward b/c of the lateral angle of the drag link, therefore negating the need to go behind the axle, yet necessitating extending the frame, which seems like a pain that i dont want to deal with. anyway, full hydraulic steering would fix all these clearance problems, but my YJ is a daily driver...is full hydraulic steering illegal on the road or even safe? if not- got any solutions you know for the above? thanks!!!

- jake

SO is it legal to go all hydro, safe?
I think ram add on is alot safer then a full hydro system, simpler/cheeper too. If youre engine dies with a full-hydro system you will have NO control, jump the hell out.:barf:

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


SO is it legal to go all hydro, safe?
I think ram add on is alot safer then a full hydro system, simpler/cheeper too. If youre engine dies with a full-hydro system you will have NO control, jump the hell out.:barf:

which is exactly why an all hydro system is generally illegal. You need to have some sort of mechanical backup.

Kinda like your parking brake - it's supposed to be a working mechanical linkage to the brakes.

If a homemade setup was used for hydro steering, would that combined with a hydro winch be too much strain on the pwr. steering box? Can both systems be run off the same box?

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


If youre engine dies with a full-hydro system you will have NO control, jump the hell out.:barf:

ARE YOU SURE???

I have a Danfoss Orbital valve that I'm installing on my jeep project, and according to the tech papers online

http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/Literatur/index.html

Manual steering is possible without hydraulic pressure, the tech papers even give the force required to turn the steering wheel manually....

Originally posted by JIM3030
is the power steering pump enough to run full hydro?
Plenty if you are running a single ram but it might be slow if you run a dual ram setup.

Originally posted by tators


ARE YOU SURE???

I have a Danfoss Orbital valve that I'm installing on my jeep project, and according to the tech papers online

http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/Literatur/index.html

Manual steering is possible without hydraulic pressure, the tech papers even give the force required to turn the steering wheel manually....

You can steer tractors that aren't running. Steering will sorta suck, but it will work.

so how unrealistic would it be to run full hydro on a daily driver if its true that it can be steered with power loss? what would the fine be if caught in TN? anyone know? is this unrealistic?


- jake

is a cooler necessary to keep the fluid from getting too hot?

Hell you should put a cooler on a stock system if you are running a larger size tire. Most people dont but it helps out a bunch. Plus it alows for more fluid in the system wich helps keep things cool.
OH ya anybody found a good write up on where to tap the power steering box for the ram assist yet???

See pic's above in earlyer post.

If you want to be cool and have them come out the side then just contact "Thelakerat" and get a box from him or tear yours apart, take a picture of the inside where the lines come in and I can point out where to drill and wled on the fittings. It is usually easyer to do the end and protect it then take the box apart but it is up to you.

Somebody get to talking double ended, I have seen the single sets plenty. I want even ratio left to right but I don't want to sacrifice my first born for the setup, second stepkid maybe though (she just got me a $900 long distance bill :mad: ).

I know sombody is running one. What do ya think about it and what did you learn.

i have to agree that if your jeep is purpose built for offroading olny, the fully hyrolic steering is the way to go. my friend's scout is on 39.5 boggers and he can trun his wheels with his pinky with completely NO resistance (not even moivng). and yes, you still can steer your vehicle when the engie dies thnx to the orbital valve. it is just like loosing power steering on a normal setup, jsut a bitch to turn, but it still works. im postive fully hydro is illegal fro on road use (at least in Ga anyway), but he still drives short distances and can go about 65. it is a lil squirlly though. im about to covert fully hrdo on my cj, i will post pics and results afterwards.

im postive fully hydro is illegal fro on road use (at least in Ga anyway)

I thought the legality of a full hydro setup was in jeapardy because it doesn't 'return to center', which is actually a requirement in NJ - I forget the way they measure it, but they have it quanitified.

Good topic!

Bryan

The problem with full hydro is that you have little to no feel were with hydro assist you still have feel and are legal. When I went to 39.5 it was sort of hard to steer and when you flipped on the ARB you couldn't steer. With the assist it is no problem to steer at any time unless the tires are bound. So to me what are the advantages of full hydro over an assist? If an assist gives you all the power you need then the only thing I see is that you don't have a draglink and no steering shaft to run.

i read on here awhile back that someone had asked chp and they said there are no laws about it, if i can find my vehicle code i'll take a look, but legal or not, i wiould want some sort of mechanical backup, hoses blow and pumps can sieze
Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


SO is it legal to go all hydro, safe?
I think ram add on is alot safer then a full hydro system, simpler/cheeper too. If youre engine dies with a full-hydro system you will have NO control, jump the hell out.:barf:

ok i just got my ram........... west texas off-road, redneck ram :D

got to find a place to put it, daamn wish i had kingpins........ ahh well next year.......

i think im gonna have to use the 1 1/2 inch one......... no room for anything else, ill post pics when i get around to putting her in...

this topic kicks ass ive been toying with this idea.

here are a couple questions (i already emailed matt) im running an agr high preasure pump and a stage 2 box im hoping i can use the box and go ram assist i was looking at the kit matt sells and i like the idea

any down falls to runnin ram assist on the street, i searched today and got mixxed answers but the ones with problems are running very ODD Setups.

Just keep the ram small like 1" or 1.5" max if you run the street allot. A 1" ran will give you almost 1000lbs of push and about 750lbs of pull @ 1100psi of pressure.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


SO is it legal to go all hydro, safe?

Ford in their early days(70s) used the hyd.ram steering on their selected F-series P/UPs and Granadas/Monarchs. I use to sell the parts to repair these, but due to obsolence, some were converted with other factory OEM units.
Any ideas as to why they got discontinued? My original answer was that D.O.T. got involved due to the fact that there was no, or minimal return-to-center feel. Any comments to add?:D

Originally posted by JeeperJake
so how unrealistic would it be to run full hydro on a daily driver if its true that it can be steered with power loss? what would the fine be if caught in TN? anyone know? is this unrealistic?


- jake

I think it would not be advisble to run full hydro on a DD, mainly because you have no return to center, unless you run a chernyl orbital valve.

I was thinking about running a flow regulator between my ram and the orbital. That way I could turn the flow all the way up when on the trails giving me faster turning and better response from the steering. Then when I get on the road to get back to my trailer I turn the the flow down. That way I can get up to cruising speeds around 50 mph and not have to worry about if I barely touch the wheel that Im going to go over.

The only concern I have about running my full hydro, is that Im running a dual ram and how am I going to mount it. I have seen a few ways to mount it but, I would like to know exactly how from somebody that knows.

L8tr,

who needs power steering with hydro steering. its the only way to go.. .. ive got font and rear steering on my burb when it gets finished.. ill post some pics soon.. and the easiest thing i found was buying the rock ram cylinders and a local hydro shop yes a low rider shop pt together the system with the values turn on turn off.. as i stated it wil have 4 wheel steering so we set it up where the rear wheels can be locked out. at any angle.. or the front can be locked out.. this is gonna be a pue play toy.. but i can wait to get it rolling to see if everything is as smooth as i hope its gonna be.. and if it is i will possibly up grade my yt to hydro.. of course if the laws allow it.. (thank god i live ina state with out inspections!)

Do we all agree that full hydraulic steering and a daily driver are absolutely incompatable?

I'm lengthening my CJ a little and it sure would be nice to be able to scrap most of the steering linkage and leave the steering box where it is [vs. relocating the box, making the linkage work (without bumpsteer), and worrying about the strength of the frame around the new box location].

Is anyone using the orbital valve that does give a return to center? Does it really work?

For highway speeds would a 2" ram be better because it would be less 'twitchy' than a 1.5"?

I posted a similar question on the general board before I found this thread (if I had spelled hydraulic correctly it would have helped). Whoops.

I still have some questions on hyrdo. I am thinking of going full hydro. Is my PS pump going to be enough if the steering is al it's running? What orbital valve should I get? I would like an affordable but new one, preferably with return to center, but not required. What's the best way to hook it up to a stock CJ steering shaft? (Some of these were asked but not completely answered.)

J. J.

Originally posted by JeeperJake
so how unrealistic would it be to run full hydro on a daily driver if its true that it can be steered with power loss? what would the fine be if caught in TN? anyone know? is this unrealistic?


- jake

Trust me when I say this. It is not fun to drive without it working. Mine refuses to bleed and I ran Fordyce this weekend without it working. Today I can barely lift my arms :( I doubt it is realistic to drive on the street also :eek: Scary.

So Kieth, does that mean your 258 is up and running? How about a post on it's performance and any issues you had on the swap?

Hey guys, I am about to do my hydro assist. Question: Do you need a rubber bushing at one end (or both)?
I was thinking of putting it together will bronze bushings at both ends and mounting it to tabs on the axle housing, and the tie-rod, but that will result in a small amount of travel that is not in the same plane as the bushing pivots. It that going to be a problem? Don't want it to break from bending the metal back and forth a tiny bit endlesly.

Thanks,
Phil

A lot of rigs run the rams with the ends in different planes and they work fine (acording to them). I would not do this. I would try to find a way to mount the ram so that the ends are in the same plane and follow the tie rod travel.

What about some links for sources of 1", 1.5" and 2" rams. I know about Northern Tool but I really wanted 1.5". Some of the approximate costs would be great too. I cant find any 1.5" rams for decent prices.

Dean: I will be calling you soon to drill out my gear box. Hydro assist is on its way D

Originally posted by Eric
A lot of rigs run the rams with the ends in different planes and they work fine (acording to them). I would not do this. I would try to find a way to mount the ram so that the ends are in the same plane and follow the tie rod travel.

I am goign to weld them in the same plane horizontally, to allow for the forward and backard motion of the tie rod. But what about the up and down motion caused by castor angle in the steering knuckles? That will flex the mounts, no?

Phil

Yes, that will flex the mounts some, but I don't know if it is enough to make a difference. I think there is enough play in the mounting holes to make up any slack.

source for 1.5x8 rams? anyone? one more question, are all saginaw pumps the same output psi or is one better than another?:D

just a cut and paste but possibly helpful... from CAT website: General guidelines to use when determining your cylinder size requirements:
• Cylinder Specifications:
Bore Size
Length of Stroke

• Operating Pressure:
Caterpillar cylinders listed below are designed to working at operating pressures between 27,000 and 35,000 kPa. The operating pressure of a cylinder may vary with application.

• Speed of Operation:
Operating speeds of hydraulic cylinders vary according to the cylinder volume and the gallon-per-minute (gpm) of the hydraulic pump used. If the gpm output of the pump and the dimensions of the cylinder are known, the following formula can be used to determine the operating time (in seconds) for a cylinder to go from fully closed to fully open:

T = 60 X Displacement (U.S. Gal.)
Pump Capacity (gpm)

Closing time is slightly faster because of the cylinder volume occupied by the rod. To ensure minimum maintenance and prevent breakage of parts, never select a cylinder operating at a speed faster than that recommended for the implement or its application.

• Power Requirements:
The following formula will help determine the approximate power requirement (horsepower) for hydraulic applications:

HP = 0.6 X Pump Capacity (gpm) x psi
1000


• Thrust:
Thrust, usually called push or pull, is the force that the cylinder exerts in pounds. Push is the force exerted at the eye of the piston rod when pressure is placed upon the full diameter of the piston. Pull is the force exerted at the rod eye when pressure is directed against the rod side of the piston. Pull is always less than push because of the reduction of cylinder area through presence of the cylinder piston rod. To find the exact push capacity of a cylinder, multiply the square inches of piston face area by the cylinder pressure in pounds per square inch (piston area X psi). To find the exact pull capacity, use the same formula, but deduct the square inches of rod area from the piston face area (piston area minus rod area) X psi.

Push = A X P
Pull = [A – (.785 x d2)] X P
A = Cylinder area in square inches
P = Working pressure of pump in psi
D = Piston rod diameter in inches

Where new and different size cylinders can be safely installed to operate an implement, it is extremely important to provide a good safety factor in designing and fabricating mounting brackets for the new cylinder. Such a safety factor should allow for the hydraulic system's maximum relief pressure, as well as possible surges.


Conversions:

U.S. Gallon X .231 = cubic inches
U.S. Gallon X 3.785 = liters
U.S. Gallon X .833 = Br. Imp. Gallon
gpm X .0631 = liters/second
psi X 6.89 = kPa
Lb/sq. in. X .0703 = kg/cm2
Feet X .3048 = meters
Sq. in. X 6.452 = cm2
Lb. X .4536 = kg
Inches X 2.540 = cm

A stock PS pump will work fine for a full hydraulic system. Works in mine anyway. :D The system on mine is made up of a cylinder from an IH combine, a TRW orbital valve from a fork truck, stock Chevy pump with the flow mods, and a cooler. I love it - like steering a Caddy. But it's a little scary on the road at any speed. But part of that is my coils out back that are too soft. My heep is not street legal anyway.

Another thing that I didn't see brought up was a PS filter. Supposedly, NAPA sells a filter with a magnet in it that's universal I guess. Been wanting to get one installed, but forget to ask about it when I stop in for something else. This would help preserve those expensive parts of the system.

well i just got my full hydro setup on and it works great. the problem about using a single ended ram like i did is it will take more revolutions to turn one way than the other. one way my turning is 4 turns lock to lock and the other it is almost 6. i know this has been discussed but i just thought i'd give my example. it will turn my 42's super easy. it is alittle quirky on the road but my main problem is i don't think i have all the air out of the system yet. it is getting better but sometimes it will feel like the steering is in a bind. it doesn't take too much to overcome it but when you are driving down the road and you do over come it, you over steer alittle once it lets loose. this makes it hairy on the road. i put it up on stands the other day and cycled it a few times back and forth and it has helped but not completely gotten rid of it. i think if i do it again i'll have my problem solved. anyway.... if you run on the road alot then go assist. if it is off-road only then fully hydraulic works great. just my op.

So to bring back an OLD thread:D I'm gonna do hydro assist on my front d60 (YJ and 39.5" tires) and I've been reading this and BillaVista's box tapping article. Is it really this easy?

1.5" x 8" Ram
Lines and fittings
Tap the box
Hook it all up

Is that it? Should straight driving leave the ram in the center of it's 8" stroke? My stock pump and box is enough to push it right? Should I mess with a cooler or try it out first and see how it works? Also, what kind of pitman arm should I use? Seems pretty simple for the most part. Anything else to watch out for?

www.ramchargercentral.com has pics on where to drill the steering box... I thought i saw a post on here that showed where to drill anyone find it

Originally posted by thelbz
www.ramchargercentral.com has pics on where to drill the steering box... I thought i saw a post on here that showed where to drill anyone find it

I have some good quality pics in my thread. Jeep application.

Also check the pirate4x4 tech section.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20532

Take a look at http://www.surpluscenter.com,

Total with shipping for what I needed was 89$

1 9-4300-08-S 2X8X1.125 DA HYD CYL 200 54.95
2 9-5295 JIC6M X 3/8NPTM HYD ELBO-6-6 5.58
2 9-4618 JIC 6 TO 3/8 NPT 2404 1.58
2 9-5963-AM 3/8 X 38 JIC 6F X JIC 6FHOSE 11.98
2 9-6220-6 3/8" NPT PLUG 0.98



Originally posted by The Rockslut
What about some links for sources of 1", 1.5" and 2" rams. I know about Northern Tool but I really wanted 1.5". Some of the approximate costs would be great too. I cant find any 1.5" rams for decent prices.

Dean: I will be calling you soon to drill out my gear box. Hydro assist is on its way D

Good thread!

I have been considering going ram assist as I think my steering box mount will rip off the frame if I don't do something soon to help it out. My question though relates to ram mounting. Whats better for the D44 ball joints? Having the tierod and ram up in the usuall highsteer manor seems like a good idea except it puts a lot of load on the upper ball joints. Mounting it low in the stock position spreads the load out better but puts it in harms way more often. I would hate to fix one problem only to create a bigger one! Thoughts anyone!

Kevo

mental note: 3/4" shaft is not large enough to handle the inherant side loads.. ;)

mental note 2: 1.5" shaft is mucho better.

Originally posted by Lt1Cj7
Take a look at http://www.surpluscenter.com
9-5963-AM 3/8 X 38 JIC 6F X JIC 6FHOSE 11.98


That is a cheap price, I payed $45 from West Texasoffroad for two 3ft lines, but the lines I got are rated for 4000 PSI.

What is the difference between the cheap 2250 PSI hose from surplus center and the pricy 4000psi ones from west texas?

Is that single layered braded steel lines vs double layerd braded steel lines?

Hey Sceep, so you think it's better to go with 1.5" Shaft not 1.5" bore? What size tires were you running?




btw, Captain Caaaaaaavemaaaaan rocks:D

Originally posted by MossMan
Hey Sceep, so you think it's better to go with 1.5" Shaft not 1.5" bore? What size tires were you running?




btw, Captain Caaaaaaavemaaaaan rocks:D


37" mtrs. it BROKE the shaft on flat ground after 4 days of medium duty trail use.

i wouldnt trust anything less than 1.25" shaft on a D.E. full hydro setup.

Oh, your talking about full hydro, not hydro assist. Right?

Originally posted by MossMan
Oh, your talking about full hydro, not hydro assist. Right?

correct.

a 1.5" bore in a assist setup should be fine as there is no sideloads associated with that setup.

where did you get the 3/4" shaft and 1.5" rams from? price?


do you have any more pictures of the truss you built to mount the ram to?

what kind of pump are you running to move enough fluid for a 1.5" shaft?

Paul

Originally posted by paulkeith
where did you get the 3/4" shaft and 1.5" rams from? price?


do you have any more pictures of the truss you built to mount the ram to?

what kind of pump are you running to move enough fluid for a 1.5" shaft?

Paul

my cyllinder came from surplus center.

I am running the stock PS pump off a 95 ZJ. more than enough flow.

mounting:

Sceep, what size ram is that? I can't find the 8" throw DE ram at surplus center anymore:mad:

Originally posted by desertCJ
Sceep, what size ram is that? I can't find the 8" throw DE ram at surplus center anymore:mad:

it is the 8" throw.. they no longer carry it. :( just get the 10" and limit it.. its easy to do.

I have been looking for awhile also and cant find the 8"stroke in a 1.5" bore. Can you tell us how you limit the throw on a larger stroked cylinder, or other places for the ram?

Is there a good junkyard upgrade for my steering pump and box?
Is a stock ZJ pump push that much more that a stock YJ pump?

Well I got my stuff today, First thoughs are the Chief Ram that I bought kicks ass, the hoses are a lot more flexiable that the expensive hoses I have for Hydroboost, so I don't know how well they will hold up.. I may just run them for a month or so and then just keep them as trail spares...


I don't know about the Single vs. Double, but they where damn cheap and will make great spares....




Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


That is a cheap price, I payed $45 from West Texasoffroad for two 3ft lines, but the lines I got are rated for 4000 PSI.

What is the difference between the cheap 2250 PSI hose from surplus center and the pricy 4000psi ones from west texas?

Is that single layered braded steel lines vs double layerd braded steel lines?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Lt1Cj7
[B]Well I got my stuff today, First thoughs......................



Where did you order it buddie

Originally posted by Bostonyj7
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Lt1Cj7
[B]Well I got my stuff today, First thoughs......................



Where did you orderit buddie

See Above, 3rd Page 3rd post down from the top.....

www.surpluscenter.com just to make it easy on ya....

Originally posted by Lt1Cj7


See Above, 3rd Page 3rd post down from the top.....

www.surpluscenter.com just to make it easy on ya....


I saw that. I found that page before this thread. I also know that they only have the 10" stroke. are you going to limit it and if you do, how you going about it.

Originally posted by Bostonyj7



I saw that. I found that page before this thread. I also know that they only have the 10" stroke. are you going to limit it and if you do, how you going about it.


9-4300-08-S Is the part I ordered, It is a 2" Bore, 8" Stroke and a 1.25" Shaft.

Here is a link, They have a lot of cylinder that are smaller then 10" stroke.....

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004020420584298&catname=hydraulic&qty=1&item=9-4300-08-S

It was recomend to me buy my local hydro shop to limit it by inserting aluminum spacers into the cylinder itself. works great.


yellow= cylinder body
green = piston and shaft
red = floating spacers

Originally posted by Lt1Cj7
Well I got my stuff today, First thoughs are the Chief Ram that I bought kicks ass, the hoses are a lot more flexiable that the expensive hoses I have for Hydroboost, so I don't know how well they will hold up.. I may just run them for a month or so and then just keep them as trail spares...

I ran surplus center hoses all last year and never had a problem with one. I am using them again this year with my rearsteer setup. Can't beat the price.

full or assist, alot of differences, you're right about 1.5 with the assist,any bigger and it will be to slow. The full hydro all depends on how much gpm the pump puts out and how many cu per rev the orbital has. I have used eatons valves that have .45 cu per rev with the stock chevy pump and 2 x 10 (rockwells) and you get 4 turns one way 5 the other,single cylinder,1" rod. You'll have to do some math to get exactly what you want. My biggest dislike with using the ps pump is it dosen't have enough gpm, the steering is to slow for aggressive driving. I would like someone to show me return to center on full hydro, I haven't seen a cylinder smart enough to know when its in the center?

return to centre with full hydro will depend on the orbital valve. I believe Char-Lynn makes one that has 6 return springs in the orbital valve, and you can remove some to tune the feel. If the valve returns to centre, the ram will follow.

I would like someone to show me return to center on full hydro, I haven't seen a cylinder smart enough to know when its in the center?

Feel free to search that one out, right here on this board. You will educate yourself. Contact Station on this board for a private education session.

i read on here awhile back that someone had asked chp and they said there are no laws about it, if i can find my vehicle code i'll take a look, but legal or not, i wiould want some sort of mechanical backup, hoses blow and pumps can sieze

Many years ago I had a pitman arm bolt snap on a Chevy 4x4 and it allowed the pitman arm to come off. Complete lack of steering, it can happen no matter what kind of steering you have.

Gus

I see everyone just welds tab on the tie rod, but where is the best place to hook up the the other end of the ram? I cant weld onto the diff housing, all i have is a mig,

figure out a spot that is inline with the movement of the drag link. be creative :D

The way I had to mount mine was on the top of the leaf spring
One way to mount it is to use a reciver hitch off a truck you can get defferent drops, rises to work with what you need, also it has a 1in
hole in it just cut it and weld it on works great.

hmmm.... i see that a lot of the guys are using 1.5 and 2 inch rams for thier hydro assist. most of them are at least running a 44 up front with bigger knuckles.
i was just wondering if a 1" ram would be too much for those of us running smaller tires or beefed D30s. i'm just concerned with breaking the knuckles if i was to get in a bind.
what do you all think? :confused:

i was just wondering if a 1" ram would be too much for those of us running smaller tires or beefed D30s. :confused:


Don't break what ain't fixed. :flipoff2:

so you think it will break then...?

so you think it will break then...?

I "think" its a Dana 30. I "know" that it will break. Hard to tell where or when but Hell I'm sure you could weld it on a 60 "when" you're 30 breaks.
:flipoff2:

soooo... to bring this one back....

Im having problems with my full hydro set up...

Im running two rams and my problem is that when im not moving constantly it wont steer. It steered ok like a week ago. :confused: or should i just dump the two rams and switch for just one?

ARE YOU SURE???

I have a Danfoss Orbital valve that I'm installing on my jeep project, and according to the tech papers online

http://www.sauer-danfoss.com/Literatur/index.html

Manual steering is possible without hydraulic pressure, the tech papers even give the force required to turn the steering wheel manually....

Full Hydro rocks but is not legal in most states because well, belts break, hoses leak, pumps fail. You get the Idea. Chit can happen easily to soft parts...and at speed you and likely someone else could be in serious trouble fast! a drag link is a Hard part, something that is much safer and less likely to fail suddenly on the Highway.

You can get away with Full Hydro on the street because most law enforcement officers are clueless, but why risk it. If you drive on the street much go assist so you don't have to deal with Barney Fife on your way to the trail.

Full Hydro rocks but is not legal in most states


you are wrong.

NOONE in the history of this board has been able to find and post a scan of ANY law in ANY state in the US concerning the illegality of full hydro.

its an urban legend.

There is a law for manuf. ,I doubt there is on a state level.

Donald