GRMhick
03-15-2002, 11:12 AM
Ok, i plan on getting a dodge 360 model 727 to replace the one in my old beater 77 d150 short bed reg cab. does anyone know what i need to look for to make sure i get the right tranny, and one that works from pick and pull?? Any tips for taking it out of something like a van.. remember i wont have a tranny jack or anything like that. Thanks for the help. Garrett
hy_desert_4wheeler
03-15-2002, 12:37 PM
Definately get one from behind a 360.. The reason I say that is the torque converter on the 360 has balance weights on it and is considered part of the rotating assembly when factory balanced.. If you plan on getting a new torque converter then you could use a tranny from a 318 also but the 318 torque converter does not have the proper balance for a 360..also since this is for a 2wd(D100) you can also get the tranny from a car as well as vans and trucks..
Lloyd
03-15-2002, 02:18 PM
Mopar Performance sells torque converter weights. They come with a sheet that gives location and amount of weight for each engine. Don't cost much. In theory it would allow you to use any LA-pattern tranny on your 360. Weights do need to be welded on by someone who won't burn a hole in the converter or use an extra pound of rod/wire. In practice if you're going to convert one it'd be better to start with a zero balance application (ie. 273, 318, '72 or before 340). If you've already GOT a torque converter with the 360 imbalance, just use that with any LA (273, 318, 340, 360) case & internals. If you've already got the case, and the torque converter that was balanced to your engine at the factory, you'd be better off to fix that one than to take a wild junkyard gamble. There's NO WAY to know if a junkyard AT will work until you put it in and try it, and no way to know how long it'll go if it does - especially one for a vehicle of that age. They'll pick up moisture (usually cooked out by heat in operation) and then start to rust; when started the rust will break loose and grind the clutch packs into oblivion. Automatic transmissions do not like to be used, stored indefinitely in junkyards, and then used again without a good disassembly/rebuild. Use what you've got. B&M will sell you the whole kit (including manual/auto valve body conversion) in one box; $216.75 from Summit, their part # BMM-10229. Beats the hell out of doing it two or three times IMO, but maybe you've got a lot more time and money than I do.
As for taking one out of a van in a junkyard without "...a tranny jack or anything like that" I think that a large colony of specially trained army ants could possibly be your best bet.
mtndewmaniac
03-25-2002, 07:46 PM
Lately I have been contemplating the idea of dropping in a 318/727/300 into my XJ. Already started the u-pull-it yards for parts, and glad to be reminded about auto idle-shelf-life. I totally forgot that they rust due to condensation.
:flipoff2: HOLY SHIAT BATMAN! THIS SHIAT REALLY WORKS!:flipoff2:
troutbum
03-26-2002, 03:55 PM
rebuild the fawker and save yourself a hernia, I broke down and paid to have mine done, cost me $400.00 bucks cash. Kinda pricey but it is better than doing all that work to find out you still have a POS tranny.
GRMhick
03-26-2002, 05:38 PM
yeah, I just decided to rebuild mine, and give it a try myself just for the heck of it for the experence.. I plan on buying a video on how to do it to help too. Now here is my Q.. since I only burned up the clutch packs, what else shoudl I replace.. should I do anythign with the gears, or torque converter. I have hear of getting them rebuilt. OR shoudl I just leave it alone since it works GREAT (dispite being 200,000 miles old to the best of my knolege). So will a basic rebuild kit do me or what else will I need? I dont plan on buying this stuff till late may to july.. if then (I may get caught up in other things). Anyway, thanks for the help. Garrett
GRMhick
03-26-2002, 05:41 PM
BTW I have found that this place http://shop.store.yahoo.com/chucker54/ has some pretty good deals on mopar parts.. just wanted to pass it on.. Garrett