Is there anything I need to know about putting the waggy D44 in a YJ. Flat tops and everything else goes right in?
any negatives?

You will have put on new nuckles to adjust the caster.

No, you won't need new knuckles to adjust the caster, Wag caster is 6* which is fine for a YJ.
http://www.tennessee4x4.com/trailrunners/techinfo/dana-44-swap-for-yj.htm

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: Charly ]

you wont need new inner knuckles.. or adjust the caster.. with it having 6 degrees.. you can compensate with the pinion angle.. and be done with it.. usually in the nieghborhood of 10-12 degrees pinion with 2-4 degrees of caster..
for the high steer.. i have a great write up on my webpage below.. you will have to change the outer steering knuckle .. and keep an eye on the hieght of your springs above the axle tube.. when doing this setup.. or you will need some additional spacers...
look for a 1980 or newer wagoneer/grand wagoneer.. for the front axle..
74-76 jeep wagoneer/dodge 1/2 ton for the knuckles.. also chevy d44.. and the 10 bolts have the drivers side.. with holes and studs there already..

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: jeepgod ]

Im running a 82' waggy D44 in the front of my YJ. Was cake to install. as far as hi steering goes. I got a '79 waggy passenger-side knuckle (flat-top) and placed a avalanche engr. arm ontop with some custom chromoly draglinks and 3/4" heims. Works great, and didnt cost much!

Hey JeepGod......did you have to modify your draglink at all to work, or is shortening the tierod the only thing you had to do? I din't know if moving the tie-rod/d.link above the springs would be a big enough move to where you would have to change the length of the draglink as well.

for my histeer... i used all stock wagoneer drag link/tie rod.. but.. the long tie rod that is like 3 feet long.. that the drag link hooks too.. i used the old one.. (since it is the most expensive piece) and cut the solid tie rod end off of it.. then ground down about 2 inches in front of the hole.. so the adjuster sleeve could just go on over that ground down portion.. (i actually used a lathe and pressed it on)... then welded it.. and clamped it.. and just used the drivers side (short) side tie rod end and screwed it in.. works great and its cheap.. well i wouldnt say cheap.. since i replaced everything in it.. but the long piece..
i just got done wheelin tellico.. and it worked great.. i have a slight bind with the pitman arm.. im using a stock wagoneer arm..
if i get the grinder out and take alittle off of the rod and arm.. it should be ok... its just enough to let you know its there..

Originally posted by Ca_YJ:
<STRONG>You will have put on new nuckles to adjust the caster.</STRONG>

I didn't. My caster is fine. Tracks straight down the road.

I think they come stock with around 4 degrees negative.

HTH,
Jake