: separate levers for lockers ...
do someone have any pics or ideas of how to modify the locker lever to separate front and rear locker? the two ideas i have is either compressed air, or two wires ... can someone estimate the force needed to engage one locker, and how thick do the wire need to be?
i was trying to use the diff. lockers when i got stuck in a pretty deep ditch a few days ago, but no matter how i pulled and let the wheels witout traction spin (veeeeery slow) it did'nt engage .... luckily i was on a friends backyard, and i resigned and got some planks etc. to get up ... :rolleyes:
is there supposed to be a play at the link were i've put the red ring? the rods from the "thing" in the pic and the front and rear lockers never moved a bit when i pulled the lever ...
http://hem.bredband.net/b153379/link.jpg
Puffdragon 10-18-2005, 08:49 AM No, you should not have any play there. I recently have found that the springs in the rod can get week over time and will not lock up the diffs. Also, you might check to see if you diffs are working by hand as well
well ... there are perhaps 1/3 of play at that end ....
how should the lever point when both 4wd and the lockers are engaged?
smkymtns 10-18-2005, 05:34 PM I have been thinking about this as well. Here is one of the cleaner looking installations I have seen. Split Diff locks (http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/splitdifflockshifter.html) I have been thinking about using a cable system like an Ox locker (are they still in business?) mainly for the front diff. I like their two position shifters compared to a push-pull PTO knob but don't like the price. Shouldn't be too hard to come up with a spring 'pre' loader at the diff end. Here are some more pics (http://ox.users.superford.org/UNIMOG/Locker%20shifters_cables/) I just came across tonight after reading this thread.
yeah, i guess thats the easiest way to do it ....
i want to get rid of the part of the linkage which is under the gear box ... i think its bent, and that why i cant engage the lockers ...
smkymtns 10-19-2005, 03:24 PM yeah, i guess thats the easiest way to do it ....
i want to get rid of the part of the linkage which is under the gear box ... i think its bent, and that why i cant engage the lockers ...
That does seem a little silly to have that arm hanging down below everything else! I had a similar situation a few weeks ago where I was high-centered right on that arm. Couldn't shift out of 4WD or difflocks but other than looking a bit tweaked, it still seems to be working fine after that. Good luck, and definitley let us know what your solution is.
4Mogger 10-19-2005, 08:47 PM I used pneumatic cylinders and these levers to activate my lockers. I have pressure set at 100 psi. The cylinders are dual acting so the levers are as well.
The regulator is for my CTIS
4Mogger 10-19-2005, 08:49 PM :)
that looks neat ...
expensive to buy new though .... no places to find used pneumatic stuff over here ....
dukguy 10-20-2005, 12:09 AM Bling Bling!!!
Bling Bling!!!
yeah, i thought that to, but wasnt man enough to say it ...:D
jchio 11-02-2005, 11:44 PM What are the specs on those levers 4Mogger??
tia
4Mogger 11-03-2005, 07:16 AM John Henry Foster Co.-St. Louis, Missouri
314.427.0600
sales@jhf.com
Part Number K71DA00-KC0-KL-1 Norgren Lever Valve, 5/2 1/4 NPT, 2 position, detented
73.75$ each.
They are dual acting so they have no "neutral position" and just activate open "a" or open "b" so I just used them to activate the cylinder on the locker to open or close. There are exhaust valves on the levers to release all line pressure as the lever is moved to the new position.
Sorry, I know the 5/2 part of the description is confusing. I just copied it straight from the invoice.
I run about 100 psi in my OBA system.
Sapper 11-03-2005, 11:04 AM John Henry Foster Co.-St. Louis, Missouri
314.427.0600
sales@jhf.com
Part Number K71DA00-KC0-KL-1 Norgren Lever Valve, 5/2 1/4 NPT, 2 position, detented
73.75$ each.
They are dual acting so they have no "neutral position" and just activate open "a" or open "b" so I just used them to activate the cylinder on the locker to open or close. There are exhaust valves on the levers to release all line pressure as the lever is moved to the new position.
Sorry, I know the 5/2 part of the description is confusing. I just copied it straight from the invoice.
I run about 100 psi in my OBA system.
Thank you for those. I was going to deal with Clipard and use a 3 way toggle switch for mine but I really like they way that those look and fuction. I think I will have to get those instead. Do you have any better pictures of mounting methods? Could they be flush mounted in the dash?
Also I have seen people use 2 small car hand brakes before to still use the cables to look each axle. Pull to engage...
4Mogger 11-03-2005, 03:58 PM They are completely flat on the bottom with 4 bolt holes if I remember correctly. I just bolted mine to the floor. Any flat surface would work or you could fab a bracket to get it up off the floor or dash. I added the exhaust mufflers (brass things) but they aren't really necessary.
jchio 11-03-2005, 04:49 PM Is there a way to have just one leveer with say 4 positions: Locked front, Locked rear, both and none??
I ordered two 3 position toggles but would like to have a manual lever instead.
4Mogger 11-03-2005, 06:41 PM Is there a way to have just one leveer with say 4 positions: Locked front, Locked rear, both and none??
I ordered two 3 position toggles but would like to have a manual lever instead.
I am sure there is a four way lever but plumbing would be interesting...:eek:
|