So yesterday I drove my 70 pig for the first time. The 350 powered it like a champ, and everything drove really well. The only problem I encountered was the brakes (they sat for 7 years before I bought it).

I have a line on an 84 mini front axle for $200, and want to do the disc conversion. I searched for info, but didn't come up with the specifics that I was looking for.

Here is what I know- or think I know. I have the '70 single master cylinder(no booster)- if I keep the rear drums, I need the dual master, with the proportioning valve, right? I found stuff on Warden's adaptor, that brings everything out 5 inches from the firewall, but don't know if that is the route that I want to go. Yes, I would like to do the monte carlo rear disc swap also, but am wondering if I should just do it all at the same time. If I did do it all at the same time, could I keep my master cylinder? Or is that going to have to go, no matter what?

I know questions like these are asked all the time, and I apologize for that. But every time this question is asked, just think of it as a fellow cruiserhead is trying to make a decision that he perceives to be a big decision- and he is asking for your experienced, and enlightened opinion on the matter.

I thank you for your help, and thoughts on my situation-

Cruise on- Zipp.

YES .................

I GOT MINE WITH 4 WHEEL DRUM.IT SUCKED.......I HAVE THEN AND CURRENTLY A STOCK SINGLE RESIVORE MASTER CYLINDER WITH A POWER BOOSTER....

WENT TO MAF FRONT DISC KIT WITH NO OTHER CHANGES.WORKED GREAT.....
THEN D60 IN THE REAR WITH FORD EXPLORER DISCS........NO OTHER CHANGES WORKES GREAT...
NOW I HAVE A 44 FRONT WITH DISCS AND NO OTHER CHANGES...WORKS GREAT

I CAN LOCK UP THE 38'S NO PROB......

WHEN I REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER IM CHUCKIN THE BOOSTER.....I HATE POWER BRAKES.....WITH THE ENGINE DEAD THEY GO TO CRAP...GOING TO SWAP IN A WILWOOD MASTER CYLINDER......:D

the mini truck front disc setup works very well. i've got that setup on my 45 with 35s and it stops great. i think rear discs are only needed for 35 and bigger tires, but that's just my $.02
i also have danny's adapter for my booster. works well.
:smokin:

Definitely do it! My '75 FJ40 had 4-wheel drum, now it has 4-wheel disc and it stops on a dime. The truck conversion is pretty easy, do a search and you'll find all kinds of info. You'll get better braking and stronger birfields. You can wait on the rear if you want to, it doesn't make as large a difference as the fronts.

basicaly your question is wheather you can
keep the master that you have now and add disks

yes it can be done but ther are varying
degrees of sucess doing this.

moroso sells a preshure valve that goes in
line it keeps eather 2 or 10 lb of preashure
in your break lines at all times.
cost about 15$

but you also say the breaks have been
sitting for over 7 years so your master
realy needs a rebuild and sence it does
need a rebuild I would scrap it
and buy a new dual master from
cct of texas cost last time I checked
30$
hope this helps,

I would stay away from the CCOT master cylinder. It is very cheap, and you get what you pay for, from CCOT especially.

Doing a 4-wheel disc conversion was the 2nd best thing I did to my Cruiser right behind adding the ARB Air Lockers. I have a 69 FJ-40 with a 85 FourRunner front end on it, I used the TSM kit for the rear. Only thing I would do different is find the brackets online for the rear nowadays. should save about ½ of the 410.00 cost for the TSM kit.

As for the mods for the front conversion. You will have to drill out the axle knuckles to fit in the larger fine spline Birfields, and in truth, I would just go ahead and upgrade to a Newfield
( http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/newfields/index.htm ) or the latest HD Birfield POR reviews on it's front page. I kept my Axle housing and just replaced from the knuckles out. the steering arms from the 4-runner had to be used and I shimmed them up with brass starter bushings I split. I kept my original single master cylinder and just removed the Residual check valve from it and did not use any additional porportioning valve. It stops great, even at hi-way speeds and full 4-wheel lock-up it skids straight.

At any rate, it's one of the best modifications you can do to a Cruiser. Especially if you spend any time in the water.

TxCruiser
Http://fly.to/mycruiser
Rickster@texas4x4.com

Front disks are a must do, I too used my cruiser front end and did a mini disk conversion. the axle housing off the truck wont line up for springs and such just use the knuckles, backing plates and spindles. You will need to put vented cruiser rotors and calipers or another heavy rotor caliper set on to stop your FJ. As for master I went to a 78 dual master as it is safer and had the power booster included, it meant I had to cut, and bend the driver side floor brace to match the later model cruisers. When you change one thing you need to change another and another and so forth. The rears can wait as you wont gain that much in yhe rear!
Good luck
Mike:fj: :jeep2: