Hey where did you get those 6* Shims?? Did you make 'em yourself. And why did you run shims instead of "milling/grinding" the axle mount down a bit.

I'm just thinking of which route I'm gonna go, and I think it'll be the shim way, if I can get some.

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Hey where did you get those 6* Shims?? Did you make 'em yourself. And why did you run shims instead of "milling/grinding" the axle mount down a bit.

I'm just thinking of which route I'm gonna go, and I think it'll be the shim way, if I can get some.

I have my sources. :D

They were custom made. I didn't make 'em, someone else did - and they didn't need 'em.

I stuck the shims in because it was easy. No grinding on the housing.. and since I'm not too worried about pointing the diff at the t'case OR caster, I don't need to cut n' turn, so the shims were the easiest solution.

If the shims hadn't turned up, I would've left it as-is, or lengthened my RS "fangs" down a bit to tilt the pinion up (or at least, level) AND keep the spring away from the pitman arm.

Instead, I shimmed it, and hope to try a shorter/not-as-tall pitman arm.

Mostly, I was being lazy by not grinding.

Plus, I probably would've cut off the driver's side perch and re-welded at the new angle, which would've been more work (on top of just grinding the pass side).

It's my race truck. I don't even know if the front end will last a year.. why invest too much time in it? :D (Actually, with the truss and 3/8" center pins, I expect it to stay put for a while - the untrussed front lasted 3 seasons)
After I put the shims in, the Fleckster called on Saturday.. I think he said he now has steel shims for sale.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/3_16_2002/pic571.JPG

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/3_16_2002/pic570.JPG


Hmmm.. just got to thinking.. I *did* have a slight interference between the draglink and passenger spring when articulated before.. now I just raised the spring up some more..

Oh well, we'll see how it works. :D

Gotta go get some new lock-nuts for the steering arm - I had to take it off to get the ball-joints out and replaced..

9/16-NF lock nuts are not a common item.. :D

BTW, I only needed the shims because of the low/no-lift reverse shackle.

WIth the stock shackle setup, I ran fine for 2 years without shims, with a stock driveshaft.

Yep Tom you do remember that.

I now sell 4 degree steel shims for $30 a set and 6 degree steel shims for $35 a set.

Fleckster

Don't you think you could move those spring clamps closer to the axle. They would still help keep the springs from fanning, but they would allow the springs to open up farther out...?

Just musing.

Originally posted by Hooper
Don't you think you could move those spring clamps closer to the axle. They would still help keep the springs from fanning, but they would allow the springs to open up farther out...?

Just musing.

Not a bad idea.. but these are stock springs that I haven't touched (aside from putting 3/8" pins in)..

Maybe if I were looking to be a Ramp Queen I might open up the clamps.. :flipoff2:

Good idea tho', Pat. Maybe I'll look into it one of these days..

Well I remember someone on this board saying; when we were dicussing my SOA, that I would *most likely* need 7* shims.

Anyway I ordered 6* shims from parts mike. Thanks for the info. Hope I don't need to return them.:usa:

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Not a bad idea.. but these are stock springs that I haven't touched (aside from putting 3/8" pins in)..

Maybe if I were looking to be a Ramp Queen I might open up the clamps.. :flipoff2:

Good idea tho', Pat. Maybe I'll look into it one of these days..

Well, you know me, only thing I am interested in is how shiny it is and how well it runs the RTI :D

Gotta look good at the mall!!