Ok I removed the drive flanges from my 60 and I"ve been driving it that way until I got my lockouts. My friend at the wrecking yard scored my some lockouts off a 99 ford one ton. I went to install them and they sit out about a quarter inch too far for my to install the lock ring. The splines fit fine. I was wondering if there was anything behsides the drive flange I needed to remove for lockouts? These hubs are the three outer bolt style with the black centers. Not the older red center style.

Problem solved. When you remove the drive flange there is also a metal sleeve behind the flange. It simply spaces the flange to the outside of the hub and is just a flat and round with no splines and pulls out with a screwdriver. I removed that, popped in the hubs and I'm golden. Thanks. Still looking for dana 60 4.88's!!!

Well, when you remove the driveflange there is a little metal sleeve that is behind it, It simply spaces the flange to the outside of the hub. Its flat and round with no splines and pulls out with a screwdriver.

hope that helped you out.:flipoff2:

Thanks Jackass:smokin:

now put those flanges in a box and ship them out my way, thanks

Not to seem like a parts hog but I thought I'd better keep them around incase I toast one of these hubs. Of course with different gear ratios I may never wheel this pig.

slugs are great for trail spares. it was worth a try. what gears do you have in the 60 now?

I've got 4.56s but My 70 is super secret squirrel so I can't regear it. Of course I find this out after buy some Dana 70 4.56 gears off ebay. So I'm going 4.88s. I should be able to move the 60 4.56s to offset the expense. My project is actually nearing completion and is going to be beefy. I think the weak spot may be the Dana 20 with the tera gears. I hope they hold up. I almost tossed my old 20 but I thought I might want to tear it down and keep the output shafts and housings and keep them onboard for spares. I did score a 20# co2 tank and a 20# aluminum scuba tank this weekend though. I need to read up but I heard I can make tanks I can use air tools with.

It won't be the whole D20, you just start blowing up output shafts. Have you thought about upgrading the rear to 32 spline?

SHould I toast the output is that tral fixable? If not I'll just keep the case. If so I'll pull the output shafts and output housings and keep them onboard.

Although I did mine with the tc on a bench, I think you could easily replace the rear output shaft on the trail. I think the front would be next to impossible.

If i were you I'd stick with 1310s on the driveshaft ---f you are not going to upgrade the output shaft(s). This way, (hopefully) if something has to break the ujoint will go before the output shaft.

HOS knows from personal experiance the you can "trail swap" the D20's rear output :D


probably about the only advantage the D20 has over the D300.

Yard the rear output of your spare case, wrap it up and stash it in your trail box. Also add any and all tools you need to swap it (pretty much just a couple or wrenches and a tube of RTV) and a couple qts of gear oil (I run 50wt motor oil).