Really quick,
on the bolts I am using for my cage to sandwitch the mounting points to the body. What size bolts should I use??? I am thinking 1/2"

I know that should be strong enough. Or am I going into Gross excess again ;-)
:D

I use 1/2" grade 8. for the the sandwiching plates that then are tied to the frame (bushing mounted)..... I would also suggest using prevailing torque (stover) style locknuts.

Overkill..

Perchance have you seen my cage?????

It will be tied into the frame with poly bushings...

Is this one of the Olsons??
:D

If so,
Lovin the steering arms you made me :D

i used gr 8 3/8". theres a total of 20 holding it down. 5 at each attachment point. depends on how many your using i guess.

Hey Jason you should put "OVRKILL" on your license plate!! hahahaha

Grade 5 3/8"

Use nylocks so you can leave them a little loose.

I didn't, and my CD player in the console in the spreaders won't play on the radio because of the transmitted vibrations.

Cage turned out nice!

BTW - for handles, I welded in weldnuts and used black Stanley garage door handles - worked awesome, and I have gotten tons of compliments... They are on the front tubes halfway up the WS frame tube. Youc analso either drill& tap or use weldnuts so you can mount a MTB water bottle cage...

Jim

Glo Not a bad idea! :D


You guys have radios????


The grab bars are going to be made out of 1" .120 tubing custom bent by the Legend himself! (TB)

I have a drink holder on order. Easy to mount :)

http://www.sorv.com/PRODUCTS/BCS/f3blue.jpg

Originally posted by Jason M

I have a drink holder on order. Easy to mount :)

http://www.sorv.com/PRODUCTS/BCS/f3blue.jpg

NO WAY!!! :eek: That is fawking bad ass!!! :D:D:D $24.95 is well worth it if it saves me from spill Dr Pepper all over me next time I roll!! hahaha

Originally posted by Jason M
Overkill..

Perchance have you seen my cage?????

It will be tied into the frame with poly bushings...

Is this one of the Olsons??
:D

If so,
Lovin the steering arms you made me :D

How's it going eh?
that has got to be the beefyest cage I have ever seen!!!
Damn!

Chris Olson

Other then wow and weight gain...you might want to add some bars to tie into the front...refer to http://www.acmeoffroad.com ...this will be the cat's ass and you can make it slip fit for the front to aid in removal if necessary...it comes down to the point that the vehicle will crush around you but the cage is fine....get 8 for style points

If you are referring to some supports that will go near the top of the windshield down, I already have that covered. TB is making some Grab bars/supports for that section for me. :D

Damn jason, that cage should have a "count the triangles" game:D :D thats burly shit man, i like it. Matt:mad2: :skull:

If you only put interconnecting holes through the joints, you could have use it as a compressed air tank. The total volume could be about 60 gallonss. Then, add a 3/8"NPT fitting and install a pressure gauge.

You are now a rolling air fill station!:rasta: :smokin:

Originally posted by boondocker
If you only put interconnecting holes through the joints, you could have use it as a compressed air tank. The total volume could be about 60 gallonss. Then, add a 3/8"NPT fitting and install a pressure gauge.

You are now a rolling air fill station!:rasta: :smokin:


Yeah but with that many welds I would be chasing air leaks for the rest of my life!!!

100 feet of 2" .120 wall tubing hold aproximately 8.75 gallons :rolleyes:

1/2" bolts: the sectional area of your tubing is .71" sq., the sectional area of (4) 1/2" bolts is .80" sq. so in tension (4) 1/2" mild steel bolts are more than enough. w/ sheer though grade 5 would be better & grade 8 is even better. :rasta:

I was planning on running grade 8 the entire time.
And getting the full 100' of tubing to work would not be realistic it actually turns out to be a lot less...

Besides, Air tanks are really cheap!!!
:D

Originally posted by Jason M

Besides, Air tanks are really cheap!!!
:D

your right, & I've seen your welds, you'd DEFFINATELY be better off buying an air tank!!:p J/K :eek:

Speaking of welding, do you have your tig setup yet? I want to check that out!!:smokin:

Having a good time with my welds????

:flipoff2: :D

There is a good shot of one on the diff guard. It'll hold ;)

Nope on the tig setup yet. Got to get into the new house first. Then I get to play....

I do have a sawzall that wants to get intimate with your rocker panels though ;) :D

Originally posted by Jason M
Having a good time with my welds????

:flipoff2: :D

There is a good shot of one on the diff guard. It'll hold ;)

Nope on the tig setup yet. Got to get into the new house first. Then I get to play....


na, I'm just giving you a hard time b/c you were so critical of them yourself. :D

So when do you get into that new house?


Originally posted by Jason M


I do have a sawzall that wants to get intimate with your rocker panels though ;) :D

I have a feeling that your sawzall is going to turn up "missing" real soon & I'll be making an unexpected trip to th pawn shop :flipoff: ;)

No harm no foul :D

The water damage (flooded the entire house with 3" of water) caused a bit of a delay in the move in date. Should be in the 1st week of April. Then I will have the Big gun sent to me. No more little wussy welders here...
:D

I think my sawzall is safe, you saw the Hounds :eek:

Originally posted by Jason M
No harm no foul :D

The water damage (flooded the entire house with 3" of water) caused a bit of a delay in the move in date. Should be in the 1st week of April. Then I will have the Big gun sent to me. No more little wussy welders here...
:D

I think my sawzall is safe, you saw the Hounds :eek:

That sucks!!! make sure they totally dryout the drywall (I would have them replace all of it)


:eek: yeah your right, the sawzall is safe!!!

We better take this banter to PM b4 we get in trouble again :eek:

M8

Jason,

On the plate anchors, I would use 3/8" grade 8 bolt. Four bolts minimum per plate sandwich. 3" x 5" plate minimum (I'd like to see 4" x 6" on main hoops). 1/2" is fine, but then you have to bring the bolts in closer from the edges to allow socket head clearance.

It has been years since I have done tech inspections, but I have seen some really :rainbow: work. You're cage looks fantastic and is way overkill. Love it! :D

Still curious to hear what others think of tying it into the frame? In a really bad roll, the body will seperate from the frame. I'd rather have the seat frame, body, and cage all seperate from the frame. Ideal is to have the seat mounts keep with the roll cage, as a broken seat mount will let you fly back, breaking your neck or back! Secondary bar for the shoulder harness coming straight back off your shoulder. Lap belts across your thighs keep you down, shoulder belt keeps your head out of the windshield. Too tight of a shoulder belt will compress your spine on a roll over, leading to back injuries. Oh, no tying seat belts to engine mounts (ouch... F1 accident years back).

BOLTS: Do you have an industrial supplier for hardware? I like buying the bolts in 100 pc quanity as it is cheaper, and the boxes are sealed so you know the origin. LOTS of trash hardware out there, including some taiwan et al junk with grade 8 markings :mad3: NO welding of bolts to plates. A butt plate to keep the nut from spinning is fine (goes up against the flat). Ya takes two folks to intall all the nuts.

Tom :usa:

Not actually Jason, was referring to tieing the massive bar to the front of the vehicle to ensure that its stiff...a bar through the floor and tied to the front to help triangluate the load's, nush as you've done the cage itself....the bars need to run as close to the front as you can...have seen some exo-fronts that don't look to bad but like to keep everything inside for me....try checking out http://www.acmeoffroad.com, look at the project FJ...that's a cool ride! With Cruiser Looks....

Originally posted by TLCObsession
Grade 5 3/8"

Use nylocks so you can leave them a little loose.


Jim

Why would you want to leave them a little loose?