Okay, I have searced...ALOT! Received some good guidance, but haven't found it yet.

This is what I have - 1999 Jeep TJ 4.0L Auto

Basically, I have the "No Bus Error" on the dash and it won't start. It get a chattering of the Automatic Shut Off Relay which I taped shut to get the engine to fire. It runs for about 2 seconds and quits.

I took all the fuses out of the engine mounted fuse box, cleaned them up, sprayed electrical cleaner and then added electrical grease. They were a bit nasty, but didn't solve the problem.

I changed out the ECU with another one, it was used. Didn't help. It was the correct one for my Jeep.

I have cleaned the plugs on the ECU, Dashboard, still doesn't work. If the engine runs even for a few seconds, that would mean the ECU is good correct?

Any suggestions? If I can't figure it out by Monday, it is going to the stealership. They will probably charge me an arm and leg because it doesn't have driveshafts and the brakes are not blead yet.

Also - this "network" that runs through the Jeep - does anyone know which devices it is linked to?

I WANT TO DRIVE THE DAMN THING! I am waiting for the yokes to arrive on Wednesday.

Side note - the 2 seconds it is on, it sounds great with just a cat and no muffler!!!!

http://www.maclaughlinstudios.com/Website/images/DSC05236.jpg

Does it have a transponder in the key? I think 99 is when the came out with them on Jeeps.

Have you checked everything that is runs through the ASD like the camshaft sensor?

Does it have a transponder in the key? I think 99 is when the came out with them on Jeeps.

I have a 99 XJ, and it does not have a transponder in the key, The jeep did not come with the origanal keys , It came with the old XJ style key

It does not have a transponder key, just a regular one.

i have not checked the camshaft sensor. I will do that now. Anything in particular I could do? I will do a search in the mean time.

I just did a yahoo search on this, it looks like there is a TSB out for this problem, when I go to work tomorrow I'll check on alldata for this. I know GM body control systems not chrysler, but I think they use the same class 2 network as GM so I will try to help you with this.

I appreciate it! i think the TSB deals with the connectors between the instument panel and the plugs. If that was the problem, the Jeep would run without the guages. Let me know what you find.

I have an appointment with the stealership on Monday. I would rather pay a few hundered bucks to get it running then pulling my hair out.

Found this hint,"unplug crank sensor. turn key on. is "no bus" gone?? if it is, replace crank sensor. they can short to ground internally and take the down serial bus(computer/modules communicate with each other on it).
"
here

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:4PzTNRdzjAQJ:www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D57455+jeep+%22No+Bus+Error%22&hl=en&lr=lang_en

Might be useful,
CP

Found this hint,"unplug crank sensor. turn key on. is "no bus" gone?? if it is, replace crank sensor. they can short to ground internally and take the down serial bus(computer/modules communicate with each other on it).
"
here

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:4PzTNRdzjAQJ:www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D57455+jeep+%22No+Bus+Error%22&hl=en&lr=lang_en

Might be useful,
CP


x2 i had that problem not to long ago......and after hours it was the crank sensor

Don't know the relevance to your particular situation, but the start and run for 2 seconds and then shut off is an indicator of the Security Key Interrupt Module anti-theft system being activated.

At the same time as the No Bus, is there a little circle with a slash through it over a symbol of the key lit up anywhere on the instrument cluster? Or can you even tell with the No Bus going on?

If you try and start it several times in a row, does it eventually take longer to start?

Here is a TSB for the error, one of a few. But from what I understand the most common.

The main jist of it is there is a bad connection on the back of your dash behind the guages. Remove the guage pack, unconnect all connectors, clean, and reconnect. It hasn't been refered to as a fuse issue in anything I was able to find.

Later today I will as a friend of mine, he's a Jeep mechanic from the dealership, and see if there are any other reports or info on the issue.









NO: 08-15-99
SUBJECT: Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.
DATE: May 21, 1999
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 08-20-98 REV. A, DATED OCTOBER 2, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE BOUND TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN BOOK, PUBLICATION NUMBER 81-699-99003. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION TO THE PROCEDURE.

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbag Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code -"No Cluster CCD BUS " message will be present.

DIAGNOSIS:
Using the DRB III®, read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUEL OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty Part No. Description
1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing


REPAIR PROCEDURE:
THIS REPAIR IS COMPATIBLE WITH DAIMLERCHRYSLER'S MOBILE SERVICE PROGRAM AND DOES NOT REQUIRE HOISTS OR OTHER FULL SERVICE FACILITY SPECIAL EQUIPMENT.


Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the instrument cluster using the procedures outlined in the appropriate servicemanual.
Inspect the male terminals of pins 1 & 2 on the instrument cluster connector labeled CNB (See Figure 1). The oxidation will appear as gray or black lines or marks on the terminals. If any signs of oxidation are present, remove them by gently scraping the terminals with a small flat bladed screw driver until the oxidation is gone. Use of a magnifying glass may be helpful (See Figure 2). Use caution when performing this operation. Do not apply excessive force to the terminals to avoid bending them or damaging the cluster or terminals. Do not use a sharp tool, knife or sand paper, which could remove the protective plating from the terminals. Do not use any cleaner other than p/n 04856975. Other chemical cleaners could damage the instrument cluster.
Clean the male terminals with Electrical Contact cleaner, p/n 04856975. Apply the cleaner sparingly holding the cluster with the connector facing down to avoid excessive amount of cleaner from entering the cluster.
Remove the green cluster connector from the bracket.
Using wire cutters, remove the instrument cluster harness connector from the harness. Remove only the connector containing the BUS circuit (See Figure 1). This connector is labeled CBA on the cluster. Cut the wires as close to the insulator as possible.
The new connector must be soldered onto the harness. This operation requires a technician who is skilled at soldering to avoid a cold solder joint. Position the harness and align the wires with the patch harness, matching the color codes match the main wire colors.
NOTE: THE XJ INSTRUMENT PANEL CONTAINS ONE MORE CIRCUIT IN THIS CONNECTOR THAN THE TJ. CUT THE UNUSED WIRE CLOSE TO THE CONNECTOR ON TJ MODELS.

Stagger cut the main harness and patch harness wires so that the solder joints will be 1/2 inch apart. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from the wires. The new harness will have a dark blue with no tracer. This will mate with a dark blue wire with a green tracer on TJ and with a dark blue wire with a white tracer on XJ.
Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires and twist the wires together for each respective circuit.
Solder each circuit using rosin core solder. Be sure to heat the wire enough to allow the solder to melt when it comes in contact with wire. Do not use acid core solder.
Position the heat shrink tubing over the solder joints and shrink the tubing using a heat gun.
Install the connector to the bracket.
Install the instrument cluster.
Connect the battery cable.
Verify correct operation of the cluster.
POLICY:
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Op. No. Time
08-90-90-91 0.6 Hrs.


FAILURE CODE:
Code Description
P8 New Part

I think I tracked it down to the camshaft position sensor. I unplugged it and the fault cleared and all the gauges came on. Trying to track one down this morning to see if it is the actual problem.

Already went to the parts store...the gave me a crankshaft sensor in error. :mad3:

A friend of mine has a TJ, and we pulled the engine error codes out of the TJ. I can't remember the process, but I am pretty sure it was this one.


Put the key into the ignition
Push down the odometer reset button
Turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button
Then release the button.

The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.

The last number should be 55, if I remember correctly
I have a huge compilation of codes I have been collecting on my site, or you can always google them.

Good Luck

Well, I have cleared the no bus error.

1st - I had to replace the camshaft position sensor. Don't know if the old one was bad. When I unplugged the old one, it would clear the "No Bus" error. Put the new one in and it would stay cleared if I made the auto shut off relay stay closed.

2nd - I took apart the ECU plugs. I ended up breaking on the pins off on Black Plug. Went to dealer, again, and got a fix. After fixing that, the error is cleared and the relay works like it is suppose to.

When started, it still runs for about 2 seconds and dies. I am going to do the other plugs again and see if I missed something.

The press teh trip and turn the key only cycles the guages. Didn't show me anything except it can count 11111111, 2222222, etc.

Anymore suggestions?

MOT%$R F*&CKER

Sorry....

I just ran the codes. I have 2:

P1492 - Batt Temp to high - it is not connected
P1686 - SKIM (smart Key Immobilizer Module) bus message recieved.

So, I guess I have one of these FU$%^%G smart keys. Sorry for the frustration, but I wasted a day on this fricken problem

How do I get this damn key?

Dealer usually, but *some locksmiths can do it.

It sounded like a key problem to me

Sorry for the frustration, but I wasted a day on this fricken problem


Did you miss post #10 somehow this morning?

Actually, I think I did miss that. However, there were a few problems that I thought was the same. The camshaft sensor was a problem to. It was causing the "No Bus" error. Also, the power wire on the #1 plug into the ECU was a little coroded and broke off when I took it apart.

After all that was fixed, the SKIM was found.

Mr. Blaine, I should have listened :idea:

Actually, I think I did miss that. However, there were a few problems that I thought was the same. The camshaft sensor was a problem to. It was causing the "No Bus" error. Also, the power wire on the #1 plug into the ECU was a little coroded and broke off when I took it apart.

After all that was fixed, the SKIM was found.

Mr. Blaine, I should have listened :idea:

We have an 04 Sahara with the SKIM. Some moron(s) tried to steal it one evening. It was parked in front, they busted the ignition and pushed it to the end of the street, presumeably so we wouldn't hear them start it.

I don't know how long they tried to start it, but we had it towed to the dealer the next day. I couldn't get it to start with the right key and it wouldn't run for more than 2 seconds. They broke the sensor ring around the ignition.

The story gets better. Took the Jeep to the dealer this morning. They ran my VIN and my Jeep does not have SKIM. We also looked in teh column....not there. It seems someone switched the ECU.

They are going to double check it, but that is what it looks like. I have to buy a new computer!

iispms, I have run into a very similar problem when doing a V8 swap in a TJ that had the SKIM system. Two things, first, do you have a grey plastic key fob? All SKIM equipped Jeeps and Dodges have grey keys. Second, did you happen to try a different ECM in your Jeep? I have run into problems in putting a SKIM ECM in a non SKIM vehicle, seems that the SKIM ECM can write a no buss comm error to the dash module so even after you replace the ECM with a non SKIM ECM it will still prevent the engine from starting. I have a guy that used to be a Chrysler engineer that can make any ECM ignore the SKIM feature which is usually cheaper that a new ECM. The only real problem is that Chrysler keeps the SKIM info more closely guarded than Area 51 so there is very limited info available to non dealers. You can call me if you need more info. The shop # is 541-955-0363 and my name is Evan